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THE SPANISH WEST INDIES. 



CUBA AND PORTO RICO: 

GEOGRAPHICAL, POLITICAL, AND INDUSTRIAL. 



CUBA: 

FROM THE SPANISH OF DON J. M. DE LA TORRE. 

PORTO RICO: 

BY J. T. O'NEIL, ESQ. 

EDITED BY RICHARD S. FI8HER, M.D., 

AfJTHOI "i" " PROGRESS OF TMK UJI1TBU R1TB;" STATXBTIi a I. BMIOB "I* " OOLTOltfi 
ATLAfl OF Till- WnU.K," KI'., II'. 

tilustvatcu bi? a XrUi mm accurate itiap. 



NEW YORK: 
J, II . C O LTON, 

BTo. ITS W i M.i \ m BT B I r.T. 
»s : TBUBHBB ami cm., LI PATIRN08TZB ROW. 
18G1. 






Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, by 

J. II. COLTON AND COMPANY, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District 
of New Tork. 



19 



DAVIES & ROBERTS, STEREOTYPERS, .. - RUSSELL, PRINTER 

201 William Street, N. Y. 79 John Street, N. Y. 



/-c££/33 r^scj^ 



ADVERTISEMENT 



This volume contains two separate memoirs on the Spanish 
West Indies : each is also distinct as regards authorship. 

The " Memoir on Cuba," composing the first part of the 
volume, is a translation from the Spanish* of Don Jose Maria 
de la Torre, of Havana. It embraces a complete review of 
the physical geography and the political, social, and industrial 
condition of one of the fairest islands of the world, and ono 
to which public attention has of late years been significantly 
directed. 

The " Memoir on Porto Rico" has been compiled by Don 
J. T. O'Neil, a native of San Juan, and at present a resident 
of New York city. Though not so extensive in design as 
that on Cuba, it will be found to be sufficiently comprehensive 
for all practical purposes. 

The editor has made no alterations in the original text, 
further than required in the adjustment of idiomatic peculi- 
arities. Where necessary, his remarks are made in the foot 
notes ; and he has added largely to the statistical tables. 

In issuing this work, the sole object of the publishers has 
been to disseminate information. 



* Compendio de Geografia, fisica, politico,, estadistica y comparada 
de la Ma de Cuba, por Don Jose Maria de la Torre. Habana: 1854. 



*f** 



CONTENTS 



PART I. 

CUBA: PHYSICAL, POLITICAL, AND INDUSTRIAL. 

Physical Geography — Position, Figure, Boundaries, Neighboring Lands, Advant- 
ages and Disadvantages, Extent, Surface or Area, Coasts, Gulfs, Peninsulas, Capes, 
Islands, etc., Straits and Channels, Mountains, Yolcanoes, Valleys, Caverns, Sa- 
banas or Plains, Kivers, Waterfalls, Lakes and Lagoons, Oienagas or Swamps, 
Salt-fields, Harbors, etc., Climate, Diseases, Animals, Vegetation, Minerals, etc., 
etc Page 7-44 

Political and Industrial Geography.— Population, Religion, Territorial Divisions, 
Government, Laws, Ethnography, Idiom, Character and Customs, Publifi^nstrtiB- 
tion, Manufactures and Arts, Agriculture, Navigation, Commerce, Revenue, Ex- 
penditure, Intercommunication, Coat of Arms, Measures, Weights, Currency, 
Forces, etc 44-70 

Adjacent Islands. — Isla de Pinos, etc 71-73 

Description op the Jurisdictions. — Capital Towns, Villages, Petty Districts, Com- 
munities, Productions, Peculiarities, etc., of each 74-103 

Ancient Geography 104-109 

History of the Island.— Discovery, Conquest and Colonization, Organization, Civ- 
ilization, Era of Prosperity, etc 110-117 

Statistics of Cuba.— Population of the Island in 1853, Progress of Population, Towns 
of 1,500 Inhabitants and upward, in 1841, 1846, and 1853; Rural Establishments, 
Distribution of Land, Chief Agricultural Products in 1852, Staple Exports, Navi- 
gation and Commerce, Sugar Exported from 1791 to 1850, Other Exports from 1826 
to 1850, Copper Exported from 1841 to 1850, Value of Commerce with Foreign Na- 
tions, Commercial Movement, Revenue of the Island from 1826 to 1850. . . 118-127 

Appendix 128-131 



vi Contents. 

PART II. 

MEMOIR OP THE ISLAND OP PORTO RICO. 

Physical Geography. — Position, Form, Boundaries, Extent and Area, Coasts, Capes 
and Points, Adjacent Islands and Keys, Eeefs and Shoals, Channels, Mountains 
and Valleys, Lagoons, Salt-ponds, Harbors, etc., Currents, Climate, Diseases, Ani- 
mals, Vegetation, Minerals 133-145 

Political Geography.— Population, Religion, Administrative Divisions, Exchequer, 
Church, Army, Navy, Laws, Education, Character and Customs, etc. .... 146-154 

Industrial Geography.— Manufactures and Arts, Agriculture, Navigation and Com- 
merce, Communication, "Weights and Measures, Currency, etc 155-163 

Dependencies.— Vieques or Crab Island, Culebras, etc 164, 165 

Eakly History 166, 167 

The Capital and the Departments.— San Juan Bautista, Bayamon, Arecibo, Agua- 
dilla, Mayagiies, Ponce, Humacao, Guayama, etc 168-185 

Statistical Appendix 186-199 



CUBA: 

PHYSICAL, POLITICAL, AND INDUSTRIAL. 



PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 

Absolute or Astronomical Position.— The Island of Cuba is situated 
in the torrid zone, between longitudes 67° 51' 8" and 78° 40' 22" west 
of the meridian of Cadiz,* and latitudes 19° 48' 30" and 23° 12' 45" north. 
It therefore falls short about 16 minutes of the tropic of Cancer, where 
the temperate zone begins. 

Relative Position. — Relatively to the surface of the globe the island 
is advantageously situated in the Atlantic Ocean at the entrance of the 
Gulf of Mexico, and between the two Americas ; for which reason it is 
called the " Key of the New World," " Queen and bulwark of the Antil- 
les," and, also, because the largest and most westerly of the islands, 
" Mother of the Antilles." 

Extremities.— The points which constitute the extreme ends of the 
island are— Cabo San Antonio on the west, and Cabo Maisi on the east ; 
although are also remarkable— Punta Frances (on the northern extrem- 
ity of Cabo Hicacos), as being the most northerly point of the Cuban 
continent ; Cabo Lucrecia ; Punta del Ingles (near Cabo de Cruz), which 
is the southern extremity of the island ; Punta Gorda or de Mangle, on 
Cabo Matahambre ; and Punta de Aguirre, the southern extremity of 
Cabo Corrientes. 

Figure. — The form of the island is long and narrow, appearing as an 
irregular disc, with its convexity facing the north. The territory com- 
prised between Cabo San Antonio and the meridian of the Mariel runs 

* The Morro light at Havana is in 76° 4' 40" west longitude of Cadiz, and in 23° 9' 26" 
north latitude. The meridian of Cadiz, used throughout this work corresponds to 
6° 17' 14" east from Greenwich ; hence by adding such sum to the sum of the given 
meridian, that commonly used by English and American astronomers is obtained. 



8 Cuba : 

from south-west to north-east ; that comprised between the meridians of 
the ^lariel and of Cardenas, from east to west ; and that comprised be- 
tween Cardenas and Cabo Maisi, from north-west to south-east.* 

Boundaries* — On the west and north-west is the Gulf of Mexico. On 
the north, the Florida channel, which separates it from the peninsula of 
the same name, the southern mouth of the new channel of the Bahamas, 
the Canal de los Roques, the old Bahama channel, and the Atlantic Ocean. 
On the west, the Maisi passage, which separates it from the island of 
Hayti or St. Domingo. On the south, the sea called Columbian, Carib- 
bean, or of the Antilles. On the south-west, the passage or strait of 
Yucatan. 

Neighboring Land* — At the north, the peninsula of Florida, whose 
Cabo Tancha, Arena, or Aji lies 32 maritime leagues from Cabo Hicacos ;t 
Cayos de los Roques, of which the one called Sal is 15 maritime leagues 
off \% and Cayos Guincho, Lobos, Punta de Diamante, Mfjcaras, and Santo 
Domingo, on the southern edge of the Grand Bank of Bahama, at a mean 
distance of about 12 leagues from the coast of this island. At the east, 
the British island of Great Inagua, 15 leagues from Cabo Maisi. At the 
south-east, the island of Hayti, whose Cabo Mole or San Nicolas is at a 
distance of 14 leagues, and Cabo Dona Maria on the south, 37 leagues from 
Cabo Maisi. At the south, the British islands of Jamaica (25 leagues from 
Cabo Cruz), Great Caiman, and Little Caiman, at a distance of about 50 
leagues from Cienfuegos.|| At the south-west, the peninsula of Yucatan, 
whose Cabo Catoche is only 38 leagues from Cabo San Antonio ; and at 
the west and north-west, the coasts of the Mexican Gulf, from Tampico 
to Florida. 

Advantages and Disadvantages of the Form and Position of the 
Island* — Jts length and narrowness, and the great number of its mag- 
nificent harbors, doubtless constitute its greatest advantages, affording, 
as they do, great facilities for a sea-trade, which is so much more econom- 
ical than communication by land ; but, at the same time, they offer the 

* In this manner the periphery of the island may be easily traced, drawing first two 
parallel lines in the directions indicated, and bearing in mind that the parallels of the 
first course given are in extent as 2, those of the second as H, and those of the third as 
7} of the 11 parts into which the length of the island is to be considered divided. 

t The reefs or chains of keys projecting into the sea west of Cabo Tancha (the chief 
of which is Cayo Hueso or Key West) are only about 30 maritime leagues distant from 
the nearest coast of Cuba, with which they form the Florida channel. 

X Until very recently the island was almost supplied with salt from this islet, but at 
present the English owners of that bank prohibit Spaniards from extracting the article 
as an object of trade. 

|! More to the south, the American continent comprised between Honduras and Santa 
Marta. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 9 

disadvantage of requiring a large maritime force to guard the coast, as 
well against smugglers as against the invasion of enemies. Situated as 
the island is, at the entrance of the Gulf of Mexico, it becomes almost 
necessarily the stopping-place (especially its flourishing capital) of all 
vessels bound for Vera Cruz, and other places within said Gulf.* And 
how vastly will not the advantages of the superior position of Havana be 
increased when the projected union of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans 
through the isthmus of Tehuantepec shall be realized ? Or the gigantic 
undertaking of a railroad from New Orleans to the Pacific ? Neither is 
the position of the island less favorable from lying between the enter- 
prising and commercial Anglo-American nation on the one hand, and the 
growing Spanish-American republics on the other, since, being the stop- 
ping-place for vessels, and likewise the depot of European merchandise, 
it derives benefit from the trade of all those countries. 

Extent. — The greatest extent of the island is from east to west, or 
from Cabo Maisi to Cabo San Antonio. If we draw a line through the 
centre of the irregular disc formed by the island, we shall find a length 
of 220 maritime or 376 itinerary leagues. Its greatest breadth, from 
Cabo Lucrecia to Cabo de Cruz, is 45 maritime leagues ; from the mouth 
of the port of Nuevitas to the mouth of the port of Mota, 37 ; from the 
mouth of the Mariel to the Bay of Majana, 7£ ; and from the mouth of 
the harbor of Havana to Batabano, 9 J maritime leagues. The average 
breadth is about 16 leagues. 

Surface or Arca^— The area of the Cuban continent is 3,804 square 
leagues (20 to the equatorial degree) ; and adding 68 for the island of 
Pinos, and 101 for the other adjacent islands and keys, we have a total 
of 3,973 square leagues.f 

* Nature, so lavish in benefiting the Mexican territory, denied it any ports worthy of 
the name, for which reason Havana was not entirely forgotten during the dependence 
of Mexico on the Spanish monarchy, as, failing of good harbors in that republic, gov- 
ernment found it necessary to build and maintain almost always its squadrons at 
Havana. 

t Equal to 35,757 square geographical miles, or 47,27S square English miles. Thus 
the territory of the island is equal to a little more than the fourth part of that possessed by 
the monarchy on the Iberian peninsula (15,260 square leagues); to the half of the Phil- 
ippine Islands (8,000 square leagues), and to more than nine times the island of Porto 
Eico. The area of the island is greater than that of Portugal, Holland, Switzerland, 
Denmark, and Greece : than each of the Italian states, and those of the Germanic con- 
federation (except Austria and Prussia) ; than the principalities of Moldavia, Wallachia, 
and Servia, and the whole of the Ionian Islands. It is equal to Belgium, England 
proper (without Wales), the States of New York, Pennsylvania, Mississippi, North Car- 
olina, and Louisiana, and greater than all the other Antilles together, which are only 
3,814 square leagues. Although the general surface of the Cuban territory is pretty well 
ascertained, the same is not the case with the interior divisions, such as the jurisdic- 

1* 



10 Cuba : 

Circumference*— Following the straightest line along the coast, the 
island presents a frontage to the sea of 573 maritime leagues, of which 
272 correspond to the north coast, and 301 to the south coast. 

Coasts* — Considering that the island has a sea-board of 573 leagues 
(272 on the north, and 301 on the south), it will be seen that it comprises 
a greater extent than that of the peninsula of Spain, which is only 487 
leagues. The coasts of the island are bold and unobstructed in the spaces 
comprised between Bahia-Honda and Cabo Hicacos, between the penin- 
sula of Sabinal and Cabo Maisi, between the latter and Cabo Cruz, be- 
tween Trinidad and the Bay of Cochinos, and between Punta Frances and 
Cabo San Antonio ; but the rest are surrounded by islands, islets, keys, 
and shoals, which encroach within a few leagues, presenting obstacles 
to navigators unacquainted with the channels or guts affording a passage 
between them to the harbors and anchorages. The greater part of the 
outline of the coast consists of a zone of very low land, in some places 
nearly level with the water, and very subject to inundation, giving rise to 
permanent, and, in some instances, very extensive swamps. This is espe- 
cially the case on the southern coast. These marshes are almost invari- 
ably lined with mangroves. The coasts are indented by a large number 
of harbors, bays, creeks, and embarcaderos or embarking places; and 
among the harbors are many that surpass or rival the best on the face 
of the globe. 

€ulfs. — Six great and remarkable influxes of the sea may be so styled, 
viz., that of Guanahacabibes, an open gulf at the west of the island, 
between Cabo San Antonio and Santa Isabel Bay (ensenada) ; that of 
Barajagua, also open, between Cabo Lucrecia and Sagua de Tanamo River ; 
that of Gacanayabo, also open, between Cabo Cruz and the Najaza River, 
with the bays of Birama and Buey ; the open Gulf of Ornofay, between 
Punta Macurijes and the Jatibonico River ; the closed one of Matamano, 
between Cabo Matahambre and Punta Carraguao ; and the open one of 
Guaniguanico (known as Ensenada de Cortes), between Punta de la Fisga 
and the so-called Cabo Frances. In the island of Pinos we may also con- 
sider as a gulf what is called Ensenada de Siguanea. 

Peninsulas. — Guanahacabibes, at the west end of the island, between 
the inlets or albuferas (miscalled ensenadas) of Guadiana and Cortes ; La 
Rosa, in the lagoon of Ariguanabo ; Zapata, between the bays of Broa and 
Cochinos; Hicacos, which is five leagues long, and closes on the north - 

tions, districts, etc., and the differences observed between the statistical returns of 1S27 
and 1846, and the great general chart of the island, arise from the fact that other data 
have been used in the case of some territories. Thus the area of Pinos Island appears 
in said documents as 810 square miles, and we have assigned only 614^ as calculated 
by Sr. Lanier by order of the government. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 11 

west the vast Bay of Cardenas; Sabinal, between the bay of the same 
name and the port of Nuevitas ; and Entre-Casco, between the ports of 
Mayari and Cabonico.* 

Capes and Principal Points.— On the north coast are — Cabo San An- 
tonio (the western extremity of the island), with a light-house called 
Roncali ; Punta de Abalo or de los Organos, north of the inlet of Guadi- 
ana ; Punta de la Gobernadora, west of the port of Bahia-Honda ; Punta 
Brava on the west, and Punta Bacuranao on the east of Havana, which 
are remarkable only for their proximity to the capital of the island ; Punta 
Tarara, west of the mouth of the river of the same name ; Puntas Guanos, 
Ubero-Alto, Sabanilla, and Maya, at the entrance of the port of Matan- 
zas ; Cabo Hicacos, running from south-west to north-east, and at its 
northern extremity Punta Frances (the most northerly of the Cuban con- 
tinent), and at its eastern extremity Punta Mola ; Punta Curiana, adjoin- 
ing the Bay of Jigiiey, and remarkable only as a point of demarkation 
to the maritime division ; Punta Brava, at the western extremity of the 
port of Guanaja ; Punta del Sabinal and Punta Maternillos, at the mouth 
of the port of Nuevitas, with a light-house called Colon ; Cabo Lucrecia, 
at the north of the port of Nipe ; Cabo Guarico, near Moa ; Cabo Maisi, 
the eastern extremity of the island, low and sandy. On the south coast 
are — Punta Verraco, a cape near the port of Cuba ; Cabo Cruz, one of 
the most remarkable in the island ; Punta de Macurijes ; Punta Casilda, 
at the entrance of the port of the same name ; Punta San Juan, between 
Trinidad and Jagua ; Punta Don Cristobal, remarkable only as the bound- 
ary between the maritime provinces of Trinidad and Havana ; Cabo 
Matahambre, western extremity of the Zapata swamp ; Punta Maya- 
beque, at the mouth of the river of the same name ; Punta Salinas ; Punta 
Comegatos ; Punta Carraguao or Mediacasa, at the east of the estuary of 
Dayaniguas; Punta del Gato ; Punta de la Fisga ; Punta Frances ; Cabo 
Corrientes, with Punta Aguirre at its southern extremity ; and Punta 
del Holandes, near Cabo San Antonio. In the island of Pinos the chief 
are — Punta del Este ; Cabo Frances, and Punta Buenavista, at the en- 
trance of the Bay of Siguanea. 

Adjacent Islands, Keys, and Shoals.— Bordering upon the Island of 
Cuba are four distinct and well-defined archipelagos : two on the north- 
ern coast, and two on the southern. In that of Guaniguanico,f on the 

* We do not mention the peninsula of La Herradura, in the port of Cabafias, because 
there are similar ones in almost all the principal ports of the island, the most notable 
among which being that of Cayo Juan Tomas, in the same port, and the one lying 
between the ports of Banes (eastern) and Nipe. 

t This name and that of the following group have been bestowed by the author with 
reference to the aboriginal provinces to which they are most contiguous. 



10 Cuba : 

Circumference.— Following the straightest line along the coast, the 
island presents a frontage to the sea of 573 maritime leagues, of which 
272 correspond to the north coast, and 301 to the south coast. 

Coasts* — Considering that the island has a sea-board of 573 leagues 
(272 on the north, and 301 on the south), it will be seen that it comprises 
a greater extent than that of the peninsula of Spain, which is only 487 
leagues. The coasts of the island are bold and unobstructed in the spaces 
comprised between Bahia-Honda and Cabo Hicacos, between the penin- 
sula of Sabinal and Cabo Maisi, between the latter and Cabo Cruz, be- 
tween Trinidad and the Bay of Cochinos, and between Punta Frances and 
Cabo San Antonio ; but the rest are surrounded by islands, islets, keys, 
and shoals, which encroach within a few leagues, presenting obstacles 
to navigators unacquainted with the channels or guts affording a passage 
between them to the harbors and anchorages. The greater part of the 
outline of the coast consists of a zone of very low land, in some places 
nearly level with the water, and very subject to inundation, giving rise to 
permanent, and, in some instances, very extensive swamps. This is espe- 
cially the case on the southern coast. These marshes are almost invari- 
ably lined with mangroves. The coasts are indented by a large number 
of harbors, bays, creeks, and embarcaderos or embarking places; and 
among the harbors are many that surpass or rival the best on the face 
of the globe. 

€u:fs. — Six great and remarkable influxes of the sea may be so styled, 
viz., that of Guanahacabibes, an open gulf at the west of the island, 
between Cabo San Antonio and Santa Isabel Bay (ensenada) ; that of 
Barajagua, also open, between Cabo Lucrecia and Sagua de Tanamo River ; 
that of Gacanayabo, also open, between Cabo Cruz and the Najaza River, 
with the bays of Birama and Buey ; the open Gulf of Ornofay, between 
Punta Macurijes and the Jatibonico River ; the closed one of Matamano, 
between Cabo Matahambre and Punta Carraguao ; and the open one of 
Guaniguanico (known as Ensenada de Cortes), between Punta de la Fisga 
and the so-called Cabo Frances. In the island of Pinos we may also con- 
sider as a gulf what is called Ensenada de Siguanea. 

Peninsulas* — Guanahacabibes, at the west end of the island, between 
the inlets or albuferas (miscalled ensenadas) of Guadiana and Cortes ; La 
Rosa, in the lagoon of Ariguanabo ; Zapata, between the bays of Broa and 
Cochinos; Hicacos, which is five leagues long, and closes on the north - 

tions, districts, etc., and the differences observed between the statistical returns of 1S27 
and 1846, and the great general chart of the island, arise from the fact that other data 
have been used in the case of some territories. Thus the area of Pinos Island appears 
in said documents as 810 square miles, and we have assigned only 614^ as calculated 
by Sr. Lanier by order of the government. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 11 

•west the vast Bay of Cardenas; Sabinal, between the bay of the same 
name and the port of Nuevitas ; and Entre-Casco, between the ports of 
Mayari and Cabonico.* 

Capes and Principal Points. — On the north coast are — Cabo San An- 
tonio (the western extremity of the island), with a light-house called 
Roncali ; Punta de Abalo or de los Organos, north of the inlet of Guadi- 
ana; Punta de la Gobernadora, west of the port of Bahia-Honda ; Punta 
Brava on the west, and Punta Bacuranao on the east of Havana, which 
are remarkable only for their proximity to the capital of the island ; Punta 
Tarara, west of the mouth of the river of the same name ; Puntas Guanos, 
Ubero-Alto, Sabanilla, and Maya, at the entrance of the port of Matan- 
zas ; Cabo Hicacos, running from south-west to north-east, and at its 
northern extremity Punta Frances (the most northerly of the Cuban con- 
tinent), and at its eastern extremity Punta Mola ; Punta Curiana, adjoin- 
ing the Bay of Jigiiey, and remarkable only as a point of demarkation 
to the maritime division ; Punta Brava, at the western extremity of the 
port of Guanaja ; Punta del Sabinal and Punta Maternillos, at the mouth 
of the port of Nuevitas, with a light-house called Colon ; Cabo Lucrecia, 
at the north of the port of Nipe ; Cabo Guarico, near Moa ; Cabo Maisi, 
the eastern extremity of the island, low and sandy. On the south coast 
are— Punta Verraco, a cape near the port of Cuba ; Cabo Cruz, one of 
the most remarkable in the island ; Punta de Macurijes ; Punta Casilda, 
at the entrance of the port of the same name ; Punta San Juan, between 
Trinidad and Jagua ; Punta Don Crist&bal, remarkable only as the bound- 
ary between the maritime provinces of Trinidad and Havana; Cabo 
Matahambre, western extremity of the Zapata swamp ; Punta Maya- 
beque, at the mouth of the river of the same name ; Punta Salinas ; Punta 
Comegatos ; Punta Carraguao or Mediacasa, at the east of the estuary of 
Dayaniguas; Punta del Gato ; Punta de la Fisga ; Punta Frances ; Cabo 
Corrientes, with Punta Aguirre at its southern extremity ; and Punta 
del Holandes, near Cabo San Antonio. In the island of Pinos the chief 
are — Punta del Este ; Cabo Frances, and Punta Buenavista, at the en- 
trance of the Bay of Siguanea. 

Adjacent Islands, Keys, and Shoals* — Bordering upon the Island of 
Cuba are four distinct and well-defined archipelagos : two on the north- 
ern coast, and two on the southern. In that of Guaniguanico,f on the 

* We do not mention the peninsula of La Herradura, in the port of Cabanas, because 
there are similar ones in almost all the principal ports of the island, the most notable 
among which being that of Cayo Juan Tomas, in the same port, and the one lying 
between the ports of Banes (eastern) and Nipe. 

t This name and that of the following group have been bestowed by the author with 
reference to the aboriginal provinces to which they are most contiguous. 



32 Cuba: 

most westerly part of the north coast, are to be distinguished the follow- 
ing keys and shoals : Sancho Pardo, an isolated shoal, lying six leagues 
north-west of Cabo San Antonio, of little extent, but much feared by nav- 
igators ; Santa Isabel and the Colorados, long and dangerous shoals, ex- 
tending from near Punta de Abalo into Bahia-Honda; the Cayos de 
Buenavista, Rapado, Diego, and Jutias ; the two Cayos de Ines de Soto, 
with watering-place ; that of Lebisa ; the small group of Alacranes, and 
Cayo Blanco. The other northerly archipelago extends from Cabo Hica- 
cos to the peninsula of Sabinal. For the better classification of the 
islands, keys, and shoals that compose it, we shall divide it into two 
groups : one we shall term Sabaneque, from its proximity to the old prov- 
ince so called, and the other Jardines (gardens) del Rey, which name 
was bestowed upon it by the discoverer of the island (doubtless because 
of the luxuriant appearance it derives from the mangrove, coco-plum, 
and other shrubs, which clothe or line most of them) ; the remarkable 
break descried at the north of Turiguano island will serve to divide the 
two groups. That of Sabaneque comprises Cayo Monito, Cayo Piedras 
(with a light), and Cayo Mono, which are the most westerly of the group ; 
Cayo Diana (with a light), near Punta de Mola, on Cabo Hicacos ; Cayos 
de Cupeyes, near the Bay of Cardenas : all these present a picturesque 
and pleasing appearance to passengers by sea between Matanzas and Car- 
denas; Cayo Cruz del Padre, where a light is about to be erected ; Cayo 
Blanco ; Cayo de Cinco Leguas, very singular and remarkable ; Cayo 
Bahia de Cadiz, with good anchorage ; Cayo Verde ; Cayo Sotavento , 
Cayos Cristo, Fragoso, and Frances, which are considerable, the last con- 
taining a spacious bay termed de Caldera, wherein a squadron may an- 
chor ; Cayo Cobos, and Cayos de Santa Maria. In the group of Jardines 
del Rey are to be distinguished Cayo Media-Luna ; Turiguano island ; 
Cayo Guillermo ; the island called Cayo Coco ; the island called Cayo Ro- 
mano, which is the largest of the archipelago ;* Cayo Paredon del Medio, 
to be furnished with a light; Cayo Paredon- Grande ; Cayos del Barril; 
Cayo Cruz ; Cayo Confites, which is small, and shows a light, and, together 
with the four last, lies on the edge of the old Bahama channel ; and, final- 
ly, Gua jaba island. The portion of coast comprised between the mouth of 
the port of Nuevitas and Cabo Maisi is in general rocky and clear, there 
being only the small Cayos Moa and Burro, the latter at the boundary of 
the districts of Cuba and Baracoa. Of the two archipelagos on the south- 
ern coast, one faces the space comprised between Cabo de Cruz and Trin- 
idad, and the other the coast extending between Cochinos Bay and the 
inlet (termed l agoon) of Cortes; the first retains the name of Jardines 

* This island, as well as those of Turiguan6, Coco, Guajaba,and Pinos, will be espe- 
cially mentioned in the sequel. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 13 

de la Reina, bestowed by the discoverer (although also known as Labe- 
rinto, or Cayos de las doce Leguas, which name is peculiar to the keys 
at the south of this archipelago) ; the second we shall call Canarreos, as 
it was termed by the natives. Among the Jardines de la Reina we shall 
notice the Cayos de Manzanillo, Bajo de Buena-Esperanza ; the Labe- 
rinto. or Cayos de las doce Leguas, which is a chain running from south- 
east to north-west, composed of the largest and most northerly keys of 
this archipelago ; those at the east end being called Jamaicanas, and the 
most westerly, Cayo Breton ; Cayo Piedras being distinguished by having 
been visited by Columbus on his second voyage, and who named it Santa 
Maria; Cayos de Ana Maria; Cayo Saza, south of the landing-place of the 
same name ; and Cayo Guayo, at the entrance of port Casilda. Between 
the archipelagos De la Reina and Canarreos lie the isolated shallows of 
La Paz and Jagua. In the archipelago of the Canarreos are observed— 
the bank of Los Jardines and Jardinillos, south of the Zapata swamp, 
containing Cayos Rabihorcado and de Pasaje, and the islet of Cayo- 
Largo, with watering-place ; Cayos Blanco, Diego, Perez, Flamenco, and 
Bonito, adjoining the Bay of Cazones (coast of the aforesaid Zapata 
swamp) ; Cayos Juan Luis and Guanimar ; Bajos Patatillos ; Cayos de 
los Indios, and de San Felipe (within view of vessels from La Vuelta- 
Abajo) ; and, above all, the important island of Pinos, which merits the 
especial description given in the sequel. 

Straits and Channels.— Such as are near to the island we shall style 
common, or belonging to all nations, and adjacent such as are annexed 
to the government of the island. Under the caption of common are— the 
Florida channel, formed by the keys or reefs of Florida, and the north 
coast of this island from the port of Havana to the Canal de Hicacos ; 
the new Bahama channel, between the open peninsula of Florida and 
the Grand Bank of Bahama (as its currents tend toward the north, it 
serves, in the transit to Europe, for vessels going out of the Mexican 
Gulf or from the coasts of this island) ; the Canal de Santaren, be- 
tween the shallow of Los Roques and the Grand Bank of Bahama ; the 
old Bahama channel, between the Grand Bank and the northern coast 
of the island, from San Juan de los Remedios to Cabo Lucrecia (as its 
currents flow toward the north-west, it serves for vessels coming from 
Europe to the north coast of the island or to the Mexican Gulf) ; the Freo 
deMaisi (or de los pajaros), between Cabo Maisi and Cabo San Nicolas 
in Hayti; Freo de Colon, between this island and Jamaica; and, finally, 
the Estrecho de Yucatan between Cabos San Antonio and Catoche on the 
open peninsula of Yucatan. The adjacent ones are as follows : in the 
Sabaneque group, the passage or Boca de la Manui (east of Cardenas), 
separating the famous Cayo de Cinco Leguas ; the Canal del Pargo, front- 



16 Cuba : 

opening through which runs the river of the same name ; the Jiquima, 
north-west of Madruga and 100 varas high ; Sierra de Madruga, Cayaja- 
bos, etc., east of the town of Madruga; Sierras de Caobas, Limon, 
Santa Ana, and Gonzales ; and the Lomas de Cabaljan and Jacan, 
containing copper ores, south of Limonal, and commanding a distant 
view of the sea; Loma de Cantel, on which is the town of the same 
name ; Tetas de Camarioca, a notable ridge six leagues from Matanzas, 
presenting two conical peaks 400 varas high, which serve as land- 
marks to mariners ; Loma de Triana, north of Lagunillas, and Lomas 
de las Quimbambaras, south-west of the town of Roque. In the Saba- 
neque group may be comprised the comparatively low Sierra de 
Limones and Sierra Morena ; the Jumaguas, isolated hills west of 
Sagua la Grande ; Sierra Matahambre, 600 varas in height ; Sierras 
Bamburanao and Centeno ; Lomas de Meneses, Canoa, and Babuya, and 
Sierra de Jatibonico, whence arise two rivers of the same name. The 
group Cubanacan comprises the remarkable and craggy Sierra de 
Escambray, source of the copious rivers Sagua la Grande, Sagua la 
Chica, and Agabama, contains mines of copper, and, according to history, 
of gold and silver. In the group Guamuhaya the principal are, Sierra 
de Jagua, between Cienfuegos and Trinidad ; Pico Blanco and Cabeza 
del Muerto (which mariners call Cabeza de San Juan), 1,000 varas high ; 
Cabagan; Pico Potrerillo, north of Trinidad, 1,094 varas high, and 
visible on fine days at a distance of 21 leagues ; Sierras de San Juan de 
Letran; de Guaniquical ; Trancas de Galvez ; Sierras de Yaguasal ; Lomas 
de la Rosa, and de Banao (1,000 varas high) ; Pan de Azucar ; Pico Tuerto, 
and Sierra de la Gloria, boundary between Trinidad and Santo Espiritu. 
Of the Camagueyano group the chief are, Sierra de Cubitas, whose sum- 
mit is the lofty Loma de Tuabaquei, which, with that of Limones, forms 
a land-port, called Boca de Cubitas : this ridge contains the largest and 
most remarkable caverns in the island; Loma Camajan; Sierra de 
Judas ; Cerros Cascarro and Bayatabo, where a rich copper mine is 
being worked ; and, south of Puerto Principe, the Sierras Guaicanamar 
and Chorillo. Among the group Maniabon we distinguish the Mesa de 
Manati, west of the mout'h of the port of that name ; Sierra Dumanuecos ; 
Lomas Rompe and Carcamisas ; the Mesa de Jibara, which is a land- 
mark to navigators, and the Lomas de Almiqui, south-west of Holguin, 
where gold has been found. Group Macaca extends from Cape Cruz to 
the Baconao River, and is known as the Sierra Maestra; it consists of 
the highest mountains of the Antillian system, the most remarkable 
being the Ojo de Toro, a striking peak near Cape Cruz, 1,200 varas in 
height. Pico Turquino, the nucleus of the Antillian system* towering 
* In 1845, while in Cuba with the commission of forming the statistics of the eastern 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 17 

to the height of 2,800 varas, and presenting a majestic appearance; 
Sierra del Cobre ; Sierra Armonia de Limones, part of the Sierra 
Maestra, north-east of Cuba, replete with coffee-plantations, producing 
the best in the island ; the Gran-Piedra, a remarkable mountain, 2,600 
varas high, in the form of a truncated cone, on the top of which rests a 
vast rock, as if fallen from heaven ;* Loma del Gato, 1,179 varas high ; 
and Loma de la Guinea, 1,213 varas high. In the group Sagua- 
Baracoa are the Sierra de Nipe, the Sierra de Cristal, and Cuchillas de 
Santa Catalina; Sierra de la Vela, which forms the boundary of Salta- 
dero, Cuba, and Baracoa ; Sierra de Moa ; Cuchillas de Toa ; Sierra del 
Yunque, east of Baracoa, and the most striking of the group; it is a 
truncated cone, which, added to its height (1,000 varas), makes it a 
guiding-point to navigators; and Cuchillas de Baracoa, south of the 
city of that name. 

Volcanoes. — There are no active ones in the island, but the pumice- 
stone, and other substances found in the Cabaljana and other mountains, 
prove them to be extinct volcanoes, as also the pyramidal forms of the 
imposing Turquino, the Ojo de Toro, Tetas de Camarioca, and others ; and 
the lake crowning the conical and isolated Yunque indicates an old crater. 

Valleys. — That of Ceja Ana de Luna, south-east of the Chorrera, or 
Consolacion del Norte ; that of Guines, one of the most extensive in the 
island, and presenting such a magnificent appearance when viewed from 
the Loma de Candela, that Humboldt declares it unequaled; the re- 
markable and picturesque valley of Yumuri, east of Matanzas, formed 
by the hills which, extending along the Cumbre and the coast to Punta 
de Guanos, close in toward the Pan, Palenque, etc. ; the valleys of 
Siguanea and Jibacoa, north-west of Trinidad ; the picturesque valley 
of Los Injenios de Trinidad, and many others in the mountainous juris- 
diction of Cuba. 

Caverns. — Many of the innumerable caverns piercing each of the 
mountainous groups are exceedingly curious, but we shall mention only 

department, the author intended, in company with the intelligent engineer M. Sage- 
bien, who was provided with an excellent barometer, to measure the principal heights 
of the Sierra Maestra, but was prevented from doing so. The measures of many of 
them have been furnished by M. Sagebien, but, unfortunately, not those of the loftiest 
points of said ridge. 

* La Grosse-Eoche, as it is termed by the Frenchmen who first cultivated those 
mountains, is a parallelopiped whose upper face is 52 feet long and 19 wide. For 
some time the southern bed of it has been crumbling away, and the earthquakes have 
formed a hollow round its base. It is reasonable to suppose that the rains have sub- 
sequently undermined it, and it may fall in the course of the present century. When 
this shall happen the concussion will be perceived at a very great distance, and it is 
likely that the mass will not stop short of Juragua, at a distance of at least two leagues 
from its present site. 



18 Cuba: 

a few of the best known. One in the Sierra del Rosario, on the road to 
San Cristobal, where several of Narciso Lopez's party sought refuge; 
those of Jaiguan, with a stream of excellent water running through 
them, and affording a convenient bathing-place ; the remarkable one 
of Cotilla, six leagues from Havana ;* those of San Juan de los Reme- 
dios ; those of Cubitas, the most notable in the island, as well for their 
extent as for their singular features ; and, finally, the vast number that 
are found in the broken ground on the east of the island, and which, 
besides being remarkable in themselves, contain in many instances 
osseous remains, idols, and utensils of the primitive inhabitants. 

Sabanas or Plains — There are many at the east of the district com- 
prised between Cape San Antonio and the jurisdiction of Matanzas ; in 
the jurisdictions of Cardenas, Sagua la Grande, Villa Clara, Cienfuegos, 
and even San Juan de los Remedios ; but the most extensive (in some 
cases limited only by the horizon) are those of Santo Espiritu, Puerto 
Principe, Holguin, and Bayamo. 

Rivers* — On the northern coast are the following : Pan de Azucar, 
small, but with a strong current, and serving as the boundary between 
the jurisdictions of Pinar del Rio and Bahia-Honda ; Ortigosa, or 
Santiago, bounding between Bahia-Honda and Mariel ; Banes (formerly 
Bani), small, but with good anchorage, a tower, and salt-water baths 
near its mouth ; Baracoa, boundary between Mariel and Santiago ; 
Marianao, boundary between Santiago and Havana, is a small river 
running near the town of that name, and whose waters are exquisite, 
and even medicinal; Chorrera (formerly Casiguaguas) rises in the 
Loma del Gallo, near Tapaste, under the name of Jicotea, extends into 
Lake Curbelo, then takes successively the names of Jiaraco, Chorrera, 
Catalina, Calabazar (on passing by the town of that name), Almen- 
darez (where an excellent spring is received, and from which it is pur- 
posed to supply Havana), running along the Husillo, at a distance of 
two leagues from Havana (whence water is at present furnished to the 
capital), Puentes-Grandes, on passing by the bathing-town of that name, 
and finally resuming the name of Chorrera at its month; Luyano 
(vulgarly Villano), which is remarkable only for disemboguing at the 
south of the harbor of Havana, and as the dividing line between Havana 
and Guanabacoa, from its mouth to Rio Hondo, and having formerly serv- 
ed to supply the city of Havana ; Jaruco, part of which, together with the 
Guanabo, more to the west, is the boundary between Guanabacoa and 
Jaruco ; Yumuri, a narrow river, five leagues in its course, watering the 
picturesque valley of that name, and passing through a remarkable 

* A description of this and other caves has been published by Sr. Carles in the 
Diario de la Eabana for August, 1S47. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 19 

opening, disembogues at the north of the city of Matanzas, separating 
the fine district of Versalles, and serving as a channel for large lighters 
for a distance of half a league from its mouth ; San Juan receives the 
San Agustin and other rivulets which dilate it, and under various names 
disembogues at the south of Matanzas, separating therefrom the ward 
of Pueblo-Nuevo, and spanned by two bridges communicating between 
that ward and said city : like the Yumuri it is navigable for lighters for 
a space of one league ; Canimar, a magnificent river with a course of six 
leagues, and, like the two preceding, emptying into the Bay of Ma- 
tanzas, being navigable nearly two leagues by schooners, and for a 
greater distance if its windings are followed ; Camarioca, with anchor- 
age east of the Bay of Matanzas; San Anton de la Anegada, east of 
the Jucaro station ; Jucaro,* which rises in Sabanilla de la Palma, and 
disembogues (like the Canal of San Mateo) in the Bay of Santa Clara ; 
La Palma, a considerable river, emptying opposite the Canal del Pargo, 
and serving, like the latter, as a boundary in the maritime division : 
it is navigable as far as its embarking-place, one league distant ; Las 
Cruces, opposite the Canal de Nicolas Sanchez, and spreading its waters 
into the swamp of the coast ; Sierra Morena, limited in its course, has 
served as a boundary between the western and central departments, and 
is such at present between the division of the districts of the Audiencias 
and for the Intendancies of Havana and Puerto Principe; Sagua la 
Grande, the largest river of the northern coast, rises in the Sierra del 
Escambray, runs a course of 35 leagues, and passes by the towns of Santo 
Domingo and Sagua la Grande, whence it is navigable for schooners 
as far as its mouth, a distance of seven leagues, and very tortuous ;f 
Caonao, one and a half leagues in length, from its mouth to the estuary 
of Granadillo, and serving as a boundary between Sagua la Grande and 
Villa Clara ; Sagua la Chica also rises in the Sierra del Escambray, is 
25 leagues long, having the Embarcadero del Santo a league from its 
mouth, and serving as a boundary between Villa Clara and San Juan de 
los Remedios ; Jatibonico del Norte rises at the south of the Sierra de 
Jatibonico (where Jatibonico del Sur also has its origin), disappearing at 
a short distance and reappearing a league off in boisterous cascades ; it 
disembogues east of Punta Judas, after a course of 15 miles, and serves 
as a boundary between Remedios and Santo Espiritu ; Los Perros (called 
Chambas at its head) rises in Sierra Matahambre and passes by Hato 
Camagueyano ; La Yana (called Arroyo Pablos at its origin) empties 
itself on the east of Laguna Moron, and serves as a boundary of the chief 
military and ecclesiastical divisions; Caonao arises at the north of Puerto 

* The station, and even the railroad of Jucaro, have therefore been improperly named, 
t In a straight line the distance is but about four leagues. 



20 Cuba : 

Principe, and passes near the parish of Mulato; Jigiiey rises at the 
south of the Sierra de Cubitas, and disembogues east of Punta Curiana; 
Macsimo, a short river that empties into the Bay of Sabinal, and re- 
markable because it is supposed that Columbus made his first landing in 
the island at its mouth, calling it the San Salvador, the 28th of October, 
1492; Saramaguacan, 20 leagues long, rises near Puerto Principe, and 
empties into the bay of Mayanabo, port of Nuevitas'; Las Cabreras, that 
used to be the dividing line between the eastern and central departments, 
empties itself before reaching the coast ; Yarigua disembogues in the 
port of Manati, and has its borders covered with brilliant pebbles; Ta- 
cajo, that empties into the Bay of Nipe ; Mayari, that rises in the Lomas 
de Tiguabos, passes by the town of its name, and disembogues three 
leagues thence in the port of Nipe, after a course of 85 leagues ; Sagua 
de Tanamo, 22 leagues long, copious and navigable as far as the town of 
that name, four leagues from its mouth ; Cabreras, distinguished only as 
the boundary between Baracoa and Cuba ; Moa, a short river, which 
disappears at its origin, and forms on its reappearance a cascade of 
100 varas ; the Toa, a considerable river, rising in the heights of the 
same name, and emptying itself north-east of Baracoa ; Macaganigua 
and Miel, small rivers disemboguing near Baracoa, with bars at their 
mouths, rendering them dangerous, as was experienced by Hernan Cortes. 
On the southern coast the rivers are as follows : Sabana-la-mar, 
boundary between the Saltadero and Baracoa ; Yateras, 24 leagues 
in length ; Guantanamo, about 25 leagues long, receiving at its right 
bank the Tiguabos, and emptying itself by the western coast of the 
Bay of Guantanamo; Aguadores, a short river; Yarayo, short, and 
disemboguing at the north of the port of Cuba ; Turquino, a short 
river at the foot of the lofty peak of the same name, and serving as a 
boundary between Manzanillo and Cuba; Bicana; Yara, bordered by 
fine tobacco-lands or vegas ; Jicotea, the boundary between Bayamo 
and Manzanillo ; Buey, of little extent, but overflowing in its course, 
forms the swamp of the same name; Cauto, the longest and most 
copious river of the island, having a course of 60 leagues: it rises 
near Villa del Cobre, at a place called Macuto, receiving on its left 
margin the rivers Contramaestre and Cautillo (which form the eastern 
and western boundaries of Jiguani), and the Bayamo, which passes by 
the city of the same name ; and on its right margin, the rivulet Cayo 
del Rey, and the deep and broad Salado, 25 leagues long, into which 
flows the Playuelas rivulet, boundary of Holguin; the Cauto is navigable 
for schooners a distance of 22 leagues (as far as the town of Cauto del 
Embarcadero) ; the Jobabo, which used to serve as the boundary be- 
tween the central and eastern departments ; Sevilla, boundary between 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 21 

Bayamo and Puerto Principe ; San Juan, Najaza, or Santa Cruz, with a 
course of 23 leagues, empties itself a short distance east of the port of 
Santa Cruz, after irrigating the broad savannas at the south of Puerto 
Principe ; San Pedro or Santa Clara, 33 leagues long, receiving at its 
origin the rivers Tinima and Jatibonico, which cross the city of Puerto 
Principe ; Altamira or Duran, which disembogues into the bay of Santa 
Clara ; Sabana-la-mar, a rivulet serving as a boundary between the 
dioceses and the military divisions ; Jatibonico del Sur, having a course 
of 25 leagues, rises in the Sierra de Jatibonico (which also produces the 
river Jatibonico del Norte), and passes by the town of San Antonio Abad 
del Jibaro, whence it is navigable for schooners as far as its mouth, a 
space of three leagues ; Sasa, 35 leagues long, rises in the Sierra Jati- 
bonico, passes three leagues east of Santo Espiritu, and afterward by the 
Embarcadero del Algodonal, whence it is navigable as far as its mouth, 
in the anchorage of Benitez, and serves for the shipping-trade of Santo 
Espiritu which is authorized for the purpose under the denomination of 
puerto seco or " dry port ;" the Iguanojo, boundary between Trinidad 
and Santo Espiritu ; the Agabama, 26 leagues in course, rises in the 
Escambray Mountains, in the chain called Peha del Agabama : it re- 
ceives the river Ay (called De los JVegros at its head), which is lost in the 
splendid valley of Jibacoa, but reappears by the Sierra Yaguasal ; the 
Guanabo or Tayaba, a short river, but navigable by lighters for the 
space of a league, or half the distance to Trinidad ; San Juan, a short 
river, and the boundary between Trinidad and Cienfuegos ; Arimao, with 
a course of 14 leagues, rises in the Sierra Escambray, waters the beauti- 
ful vegas of Manicaragua and Mandinga, and passing by the hamlets of 
Cumanayagua and Arimao, disembogues near the mouth of the port of 
Jagua, with which it unites by an arm crossing the lagoon of Guanaroca, 
which arm is known as Derramadero de las Auras : the encomiendas* of 
the celebrated Father Las Casas and his friend the good Pedro de Renteria 
>ere situated at this place. ; the river Hanabanilla, which is one of the 
affluents of the Arimao, produces in the Hacienda de Siguanea a cascade 
of 120 varas fall ; Caonao, navigable four leagues, rises in the Sierra 
Escambray, passes near the hamlets of Camarones and Caonao, and 
empties into the port of Jagua, south of Cienfuegos ; the Salado, naviga- 
ble six leagues, also disembogues in the port of Jagua; Damuji, 18 
leagues long (six of which are navigable and very deep), empties at the 
north of said port of Jagua, and serves as the boundary between the 
Intendancies of Havana and Puerto Principe : it contains formidable 
alligators ; Hanabana, with a course of 10 leagues, receives the rivulet 

* A grant of land and Indian servants. 



22 Cuba : 

Mayabon, serves as the boundary between the jurisdictions of Cienfuegos 
and Cardenas, and disembogues in the Laguna del Tesoro, north of Cochi- 
nos Bay ; Hatiguanico or Atibonico, formed by the Gonzalo rivers, divides 
the jurisdiction of Cienfuegos from those of Cardenas, Matanzas, and 
Guines ; Madruga rises in the Loma de Madruga, and disembogues in 
one of the Guanamon lagoons ; Guara, receiving the Bio-Bianco, which 
serves as the boundary between Bejucal and Guines ; Mayabeque 
(formerly Onicajinal), known at its commencement as the Calalina, 
from arising in the source of the same name, and successively as the 
Bija, Yamaraguas, and also as Guines : it courses nine leagues through 
land of the richest description, suitable for all the productions of the 
climate, and is the only river whose waters have been availed of for 
irrigation; Govea, flows at its origin between Santiago and Bejucal, and, 
after fertilizing a multitude of farms, empties into the lagoon of Arigu- 
anabo, serving as the boundary between San Antonio, Bejucal, and 
Santiago ; San Antonio takes its rise at the junction of the Govea and the 
Ariguanabo lagoon, passes by the fine town of San Antonio, at the south 
of which it disappears at the foot of a leafy Seiba tree (whose roots form 
a singular arch), and appears again in several caves, among which is 
that of Jaiguan ; Cajio, a short river, supposed to be an outlet of the San 
Antonio ; Capellanias, which, like the San Antonio, hides itself at the 
south of the town of its name, reappears and empties itself before reach- 
ing the coast ; Macurijes disappears at its origin in a mountain of the 
Guaniguanico group ; San Diego (formerly Caiguanabo), has a course 
of 11 leagues, three of which are navigable, and is remarkable for dis- 
appearing in the Portales (a species of natural arches), and especially 
for the baths of its name ; La Coloma, river and port, rising in the 
Sabanas de las Ovas; Guama, rising in the Organos and passing by 
Pinar del Bio ; San Juan y Martinez, rises in the Organos and receives 
the Palmillas, JSTegros, and Papaya, disemboguing near Punta de Cartas ; 
Galafre has its rise in the Contador, receives the Alvarado and Yaguas, 
and empties into the bay of its name ; Cuyaguateje, the greatest river 
of the Vuelta-Abajo, being 23 leagues long : it rises in the Organos 
Mountains, runs through a natural vault, known as the Resolladero, and 
disembogues north of the inlet of Cortes. 

Water-Falls. — Although there are several in the declivities of the 
mountains, we shall mention only the following : the falls of the Manan- 
tial River (affluent of the Bayate), 80 varas high ; the remarkable ones 
of the Siguanea, or Salto de la Hanabanilla (affluent of the Arimao), from 
a height of 120 varas, on the Hacienda Siguanea, which is the boundary 
point between Cienfuegos, Trinidad, and Villa Clara; the falls of the 
river Ay (affluent of the Agabama), about 60 varas high ; those of Moa, 
100 varas high. There are many others in the eastern part of the 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 23 

island, among them the falls del Indio, 120 varas high, being a greater 
height than those of Niagara. 

Lakes or Lagoons.— In the peninsula of Guanajacabibes there are., 
among others, the following : the Laguna de Melones, near the Bay of 
Corrientes ; that of Algodonal and of Lopez, near the inlet of Guadiana ; 
the Laguna de la Siguanea; Laguna de Ahoga-Caballos, in the dis- 
trict of Consolacion del Norte (Puercos River) ; Lagunas del Gato and 
Masio, near the estuary del Gato, at the mouth of Rio-Hondo ; Laguna de 
Macurijes, south of the Palacios ; Laguna de Piedra, in Hato Guanacaje, 
west of Bay Majana; Laguna de Fuente-Paloma, west of the port of 
Cabanas ; Laguna de Ariguanabo, which is a union of three, viz.— the 
Biragua, Loreto, and Guandambu, merging into one during the rainy 
season, containing four keys, and forming quite a peninsula, called La 
Rosa ; it is then a veritable lake, covering a surface of two leagues, and 
in some places three fathoms deep ; it is abundantly supplied with fish ; 
it receives the Govea River, and gives rise to that of San Antonio ; on 
the north it communicates with two or three notable lagoons ; Laguna 
de Zaldivar, south-west of Ubajay; Laguna Ahoga-Mulas, between 
Santiago and Ubajay;* Lagunas Berroa, Larga, and del Cobre, near 
Bacuranao ; Laguna de Curbelo, at the origin of the Almendares River; 
Lagunas Fabelo, Bainoa, Manajay, or Tibo-Tibo and del Relo or Gua- 
yabo, between Jaruco and El Aguacate ; Ojo de Agua, in the Catalina 
River, a spring remarkable for its extent and picturesque aspect, and 
for giving rise to the river Giiines or Mayabeque ; Lagunas de Guana- 
mon, abounding in fish, south of La Nueva Paz, one of them receiving 
the Madruga River; Laguna de Maya, of considerable extent, east of 
the bay of Matanzas ; Lagunas de Macurijes and del Masio, east of 
Corral-Falso ; Laguna del Tesoro, which receives the Hanabana River, 
north of Cochinos Bay, and is unfathomable; Laguna de Caobillas, south- 
west of the town of that name; Laguna de Guanajayabo, near the Re- 
creo station, on the Jucaro railroad; Laguna-Nueva, south-east of 
Guamutas ; Laguna Asiento-Viejo, origin of the Hanabana River ; La- 
guna Guanaroca, communicating with the Arimao River and the Bay 
of Jagua; Moron or Laguna-Grande, miscalled lagoon, since it is a 
passage between the continent of this island and Turiguano island : 
however, it is said to contain fresh-water ; Laguna de la Sigua (in 
Cuba), remarkable both for its extent and the excellent fish abounding 
in its waters. 

Cienagas or Swamps.— As said before, the stretches of coast fronting 
the four adjacent archipelagos are almost all swampy ; we notice the fol- 
lowing : Cienaga del Gato, near the estuary of that name , Cienaga de 

* The coast comprised between Banes and Marianao Eiver is bordered by a great 
number of lagoons. 



24 Cuba : 

Dayaniguas and Carraguao, south of Los Palacios ; Cienaga de Majagiii- 
yal, divided by the Canal of San Mateo, east of the Jticaro ; Cienaga 
de Zapata, the most notable in the island, since it extends from the Gulf 
of Matabano to the Bay of Cochinos ; Cienaga de Yaguaraguas ; Cienaga 
de Buey, between the rivers Buey and Cauto ; Lagunas de Salsipuedes 
and Laguna-Blanca, in the district of Cauto- Abajo; the first, three 
leagues in circumference, and the latter two. 

Salt Fields.— In those places where the tides, especially the lunar and 
equinoctial tides, flow into the coasts, are formed extensive salt lagoons, 
which in years of drought, produce considerable quantities of salt, suf- 
ficient for the consumption of the interior. These lagoons are generally 
more common on the northern than on the southern coast. We shall 
notice only the following : those of the Bay of Majana ; those of Cape 
Hicacos and Choco, which yield over 4,000 arrobas per annum ; those of 
the Cienaga de Zapata, toward Punta del Padre ; those of the Bay of 
Cochinos ; those on the south coast of Santo Espiritu ; those of the ports 
of Malagueta, Padre, and Nipe,* and those at the mouth of the River Sagua 
de Tanamo ; that north of the Bay of Birama ; and those of Guantanamo, 
which are very productive. 

Harbors, Bays, Inlets, Anchorages, etc.— North Coast— In Pinar 
del Rio : the Guadiana, an inlet (albufera) miscalled bay ; San Francisco 
and Mantua, embarcaderos or embarking-places ; Los Arroyos, embarca- 
dero,three leagues from Mantua, and stopping-place of the screw-steamer 
"Veguero;" Santa Ysabel, embarcadero ; Garnacha and Baja, bays. 
In Bahia-Honda: El Rosario, a large bay with two embarking-places ; 
Rio-Puercos, a port, but no town ; La Mulata, a port of the third class, 
with town; Playitas, embarking-place ; El Morillo, embarking-place 
north of the town of Las Pozas ; Manimani or Maniman, a fine bay in 
the mouth of the River San Miguel or Manimani ; Bahia-Honda, a port 
of the first class, 22 maritime leagues from Havana, with anchorage in 
some places for the largest ships : its spacious entrance is defended by a 
fort ; La Or tigosa, a port in the mouth of the River Santiago. In Mariel : 
Cabanas, a port of the second class, two leagues long and one wide, 16 
maritime leagues west of Havana, with anchorage for frigates :^ it is 
divided into two parts by a peninsula called Cayo de Juan Tomas, on 
whose northern extremity is a fort defending the entrance ; Dominica, a 
port in the mouth of the river of that name ; Mariel (formerly Marien), 
an authorized portf of the second class, 12 maritime leagues from Havana, 

* That of Yarayal, near Mayari, has not crystallized since 1844. 
f Authorized ports, or ports of entry : 

1st class, authorized for all foreign trade, inward and outward. 

2d class, where foreign vessels are limited to the coasting trade as regards im« 
ports, but can export produce. 

3d class, limited to the coasting-trade in vessels of the island. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 25 

with anchorage for frigates : its entrance is somewhat obstructed by a 
shoal ; it is defended by a tower, and nearly at its bottom lies the town of 
the same name ; Mosquitos, an estuary in the mouth of the river of that 
name, and has a tower ; Guaijabon, a port, with tower ; Banes (formerly 
Bani), a port, eight leagues from Havana, with a tower and a small ham- 
let at the bottom ; Baracoa, in the mouth of the river of that name. In 
Santiago : Santa Ana, embar king-place, in the mouth of the River Bauta 
or Santa Ana, with a small town ; Jaimanita, a port with a hamlet. In 
Habana : Marianao, a port, in the mouth of the river of that name, with 
a tower and hamlet ; La Chorrera, a port of the fourth class, in the 
mouth of the river of that name, with a tower and hamlet ; La Habana 
(formerly Carenas), a port of the first order, with a narrow entrance, 
well sheltered and defended : it comprises the bays of Marimelena, Guasa- 
bacoa, and Atares, and has a bonded warehouse. In Guanabacoa : Coji- 
mar, a port, in the mouth of the river of that name, with a tower, and 
town of the same name ; Bacuranao, a port, with tower and hamlet, in 
the mouth of the river of that name ; La Boca, embarking-place, with 
hamlet, in the mouth of the River Guanabo ; Rincon de Sibarimar, em- 
barking-place, with hamlet ; Jaruco, with tower, and a hamlet called 
La Boca, in the mouth of the Jaruco River. In Jaruco : Santa Cruz, an 
anchorage, with hamlet, in the mouth of the river so called : it is danger- 
ous from the reefs that surround it ; Rota, a bay, for vessels drawing 10 
feet ; Jibacoa-Rutinel, embarking-place, with hamlet, east of the River 
Jibacoa. In Matanzas : Canasi, an anchorage, with hamlet, in the mouth 
of the river of that name, and having warehouses toward the interior ; 
Puerto-Escondido, an anchorage, with warehouses, in the mouth of the 
river of that name ; Bacunayagua, an anchorage in the mouth of the 
river so called; Matanzas (formerly Yucayo), a great bay, deep enough 
for the largest ships : it is an authorized port of the first class, defended 
by a castle and three batteries, and is also the terminus of the Matan- 
zas Railroad ; Canimar, embarking-place, inland three leagues from the 
mouth of the river of that name, and whither is transported the merchan- 
dise of its great trade ; Camarioca, an anchorage of the fourth class, with 
a hamlet, in the mouth of the river of that name. In Cardenas : Siguapa 
or Las Guasimas, embarking-place in the most western part of the Bay 
of Cardenas ; Cardenas, a bay, and port of the second class, with the 
flourishing town of that name : it is also a railroad terminus ; Siguagua, 
embarking-place ; Jticaro, an anchorage, with a straggling hamlet and 
very long piers, supporting the branches of the Jucaro railroad ; Canal 
de San Mateo, with embarking-place in the Bay of Santa Clara, where 
considerable business is done : it is two leagues long ; La Palma, an in- 
land embarking-place, three leagues from the mouth of the river of that 



26 Cuba : 

name, with a large trade ; La Teja, embarking-place, where the Sagua 
la Grande steamboat stops ; Santa Clara, embarking-place ; Ganuza, em- 
barking-place. In Sagua la Grande : Sierra-Morena, embarking-place 
half a league east of the mouth of the river of that name ; Pozas, em- 
barking-place and stopping-place of the steamer Jejen ; El Mallorquin, 
between Pozas and Sabanilla, whence it is intended to build a railroad 
to connect with that of Jucaro at Pijuan ; Sagua la Grande, an author- 
ized inland port of the second class, distant (by its windings) seven 
leagues from the mouth of the river of that name : it has a town which 
is the head of a district, and will soon be a railroad terminus ; Carahatas, 
embarking.place west of the river so called, and a league from its hamlet. 
In Villa Clara : Granadillo, an inland embarking-place, three leagues 
from the mouth of the Caonao Eiver. In San Juan de los Remedios : 
Tesico, a port in the great bay which also comprises Caibarien; Caibarien, 
a bay serving for the shipping trade of the authorized " dry port" of the 
first class, San Juan de los Remedios, distant three leagues south-west ; 
Mayajigua, a "dry port" whose shipping-place is the Estero Real. 
In Santo Espiritu: Los Perros, M anion, or Chambas, a port at the 
mouth of the river so called ; Moron or Laguna-Grande, an estuary, 
with a depth of eight or nine feet, formed by the island of Turiguano and 
the Cuban continent. In Puerto Principe : Santa Gertrudis and Santa 
Marcelina, embarking-places ; Sabana-la-mar, an embarking-place west 
of Caonao River ; Guanaja, a bay and authorized port of the second class, 
where the shipping trade of Puerto Principe is done : of this, however, it 
has lost a good deal since the completion of the Nuevitas railroad; 
Jigiiey, a bay of little depth in the mouth of the river of that name. 
In JYuevitas : Sabinal, an extensive bay, through the mouth of which, 
called Boca de los Carabelas, it is surmised that Columbus entered on 
the discovery of the island, October 28, 1492 ; Nuevitas (formerly Puerto 
Principe), is an authorized port of the second class, with an area of 57 
square miles : the entrance is long and narrow, furnished with a light, 
and defended by fort San Hilario ; in the interior are several keys and 
the bays of Mayanabo, Pueblo-Viejo (the original site of Santa Maria 
de Puerto Principe), Guincho (where the railroad to Puerto Principe 
begins), Granadillas, Santa Rosa, and Santa Lucia, and in the south side 
is the town of Baga ; Nuevas-Grandes, a long and narrow estuary, 
with several keys within it. In Tunas : Manati and Malagueta, excellent 
ports. In Holguin : Puerto del Padre, very deep ; Jibara, an authorized 
port of the first class, with a fort and the town of Punta del Yarey ; 
Jururu ; Bariay ; Vita ; Naranjo, a small, but deep and excellent port : 
Sama, and Banes, good ports. In Cuba. -Nipe, the largest port in the 
island, having an area of 65 square miles ; its entrance is narrow and 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 27 

free; it is deserted, and its great extent, reaching almost to the horizon, 
prevents it from affording vessels a good shelter from the winds ; Mayari, 
an embarking-place within the port of Nipe, and three and a half leagues 
from the town of Mayari, which also is an embarking-place, with eight 
feet depth at high water ; Lebisa or Libisa and Cabonico, ports with only 
one entrance ; Cebollas, Cananova, and Yaguaneque, small ports ; Sagua 
de Tanamo, an inland port four leagues* from the mouth of the river of 
that name : it does an extensive trade in timber, tobacco, and cattle. In 
Baracoa : Moa, a port with a good depth and well sheltered, and having 
in front the key of that name ; Baracoa, an authorized port of the first 
class, with the city of the same name ; Mata, the most easterly port of 
the island. 

South Coast— In Baracoa: Jauco, an anchorage. In Saltadero: 
Baitiqueri, a port; Puerto-Escondido ; Guantanamo, a large bay (call- 
ed Cumberland Bay by the English) 20 leagues east of Cuba, and three 
leagues south of the town of Guantanamo : its entrance is 3,000 varas 
wide, and has a fort at the narrowest part of the interior : its area is 
27 square miles, and contains a number of ports, among which are those 
of Joa and La Majagua; its trade, consisting in live-stock, cotton, and 
timber, is trifling. In Cuba: Baconao and Altares, bays; Juragua 
and Aguadores, anchorages east of Cuba, the latter defended by a bat- 
tery ; Cuba, an authorized port of the first class, of great extent, and 
affording good shelter : the entrance is narrow and defended by three 
castles, the Morro, Santa Catalina, and La Estrella, and a battery near 
the city, which is situated on the eastern margin, almost at the bottom 
of the port : it contains the keys Baton and Smith, f the port and hamlet 
of Socapa on the western shore, and the Punta de Sal, fronting Cuba, is 
the terminus of the Cobre railroad : it is an excellent port, well shel- 
tered, of smooth waters, and has a light. Cabanas, an anchorage with 
a battery: Nimanima, Quibijan, and Bincon de Sevilla, anchorages. 
In Manzanillo : Turquino ; Mota, a port south of peak Ojo de Toro ; Por- 
tillo; Mora; Limones; Manzanillo, a bay, authorized as a port, with 
the town of the same name, and defended by a fort. In Bayamo: Cauto 
del Embarcadero, an inland embarking-place, 25 leagues from the mouth 
of the Cauto Biver, and six from the city of Bayamo : it might be the 
New Orleans of the island, and the banks of the Cauto bear many cities, 



* Along the river, for in a straight line the distance is only three leagues. At the 
mouth there is five or six feet draft, and continues the same depth as far as the place 
called Los Cocos, two leagues from the town, and whence only lighters can navi- 
gate, and then only at tide. The north banks are covered with vegas of tobacco. 

t The latter is large and of good soil; it is the property of Dr. Eobert, and is inhab- 
ited by a few fishermen. 



28 Cuba : 

if its mouth were not obstructed ;* Birama, a spacious bay, with swampy 
coasts, and salt fields in the vicinity. In Puerto Principe : Junco, an es- 
tuary, noticed only as a boundary in the maritime division ; Santa Cruz, 
a bay and authorized port, with the town of the same name, 22 leagues 
south of Puerto Principe ; Santa Maria, an inlet where the English pirate 
Morgan landed in 1666 ; Vertientes, an anchorage, which used to be au- 
thorized for shipping ; Sabana-la-mar, embarking-place near the southern 
boundary of the episcopal division. In Santo Espiritu : Sasa, an inland 
embarking-place on the River Sasa, authorized as a port, and having a 
town : it is seven leagues south of Santo Espiritu ; Algodonal, also an 
inland embarking-place on the same river, and a short distance from 
that of Sasa, but more generally used, as it admits vessels of greater 
draught ; Goleto or Caney, an estuary fronting the Key ofSasa. In Trin- 
idad: Manati, an anchorage at the mouth of the Agabama River; La 
Seiba, embarking-place ; Brujas, a bay ; Jobabo and Caballones, bays 
with swampy coasts ; El Masio, a port two and a half leagues east of the 
port of Casilda ; Casilda, a port authorized for shipping, and serving for 
the trade of the " dry port" of Trinidad, a league north of it ; Guaurabo, 
an anchorage, with a battery, at the mouth of the river of that name, 
navigable by skiffs for the space of a league, or within one mile of Trin- 
idad. In Cienfuegos : Jagua, the most magnificent port in the island, 
and perhaps in the world, with an area of 56 square miles : its entrance is 
narrow and protected by the fort of Los Angeles : within it are the bays 
of Jucaral, Majagua, and Guaicanamar, the Caleton de Don Bruno, and 
Cayos Carenas, Ocampo, Alcatraz, and Loco : it is an authorized port, 
and has the flourishing town of Cienfuegos on the northern extremity of 
its eastern coast, where the Villa Clara railroad commences ; even were 
it not " the best, nor is there, perhaps, its like in the whole world" (as 
expressed by Father Las Casas, who resided in its neighborhood), it is 
destined to be the chief port of the " Key of the New World," and is at 
the present day styled by foreigners The great port of the Americas: 
in the mouth of this port, and piercing the centre of its waters, is a spring 
of fresh water ;f Cochinos, a large bay with embarking-place at the 
bottom; Cazones, a bay at the south of the Zapata swamp; Mata- 
hambre, near the cape of that name ; La Broa, a vast bay, deep enough 



* Until 1616 this embarking-place was one of the chief commercial places in the 
island, as is proved by the remains of the ancient custom-house (the first in the island) ; 
but in consequence of a flood of the river in that year a great bar was formed at the 
mouth, shutting in over 80 vessels, and ruining its trade, for at present only vessels 
within 200 tons can enter, and that at high tide. 

t These phenomena occur at several places in the island, among others east of Los 
Jardines and Jardinillos, and in the Bay of Cochinos. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 29 

for brigs. In Giiines : El Caimito, an estuary with a battery and ham- 
let ; El Rosario, embarking-place, with a hamlet at the mouth of the 
river of that name. In Bejucdl: Batabano, an anchorage and port at 
the mouth of a small draining channel ; it is situated a league from the 
town of the same name (although there is besides a small hamlet on the 
beach), and has an extensive pier, which is the terminus of the branch 
railroad of San Felipe ; it was visited by Columbus on his second voyage. 
In San Antonio : Guanimar, embarking-place at the mouth of the river 
of that name. In San Cristobal : Majana, a bay where the river of that 
name disembogues ; Sabana-la-mar, an estuary ; Dayaniguas, a bay be- 
tween the rivers San Diego and Los Palacios : it is the stopping-place of the 
steamers from Vuelta- Abajo, south coast ; it is provided with warehouses 
and an establishment for sea-bathing. In Pinar del Rio : Cortes, an in- 
land embarking-place, two leagues from the mouth of the San Diego ; El 
Gato, an estuary, with an inlet connected with a lagoon called the Masio, 
at the mouth of the Rio-Hondo ; La Coloma, embarking-place, with con- 
siderable trade, a river, port, and baths, six and a quarter leagues 
from Pinar del Rio ; Punta de Cartas, a roadstead with warehouses and 
baths ; Colon, an inland embarking-place one league from the mouth of 
the Coloma River, and five and a quarter leagues from Pinar del Rio : 
the entrance is picturesquely bordered by mangroves : there are ware- 
houses and baths; Noda, within the Bay of Galafre, a port, with a 
town in project; Garay, an anchorage and hamlet in the mouth of 
Arroyo-Puercos ;* Cortes, an inlet known as the Laguna de Cortes; 
Juan Claro, a bay between Cabo Corrientes and Cabo San Antonio. 

Bridges* — The principal ones are as follows : that of Diego Velazquez, 
built in 1850 over the rivulet of Mordazo ; it is entirely of hewn stone, 
and one of its arches is the greatest ever built in the island ; that of 
Puentes-Grandes, over the Almendares, old, but solid and built of wood 
with buttresses of mason-work ; that of Arango or Marinao, consisting 
of a single and small Gothic arch, but with broad terraces and high walls 
of mixed construction ; that of Las Casas (called so in memory of the 
worthy governor Las Casas), in the town of Arroyo Arenas, entirely of 
stone, with three equal elliptical arches, finished in 1849 ; that of Santa 
Cruz, a league from the preceding, built of mason-work and wood; the 
old bridge of Calabazar, with one medium-sized arch and four smaller 
ones in its spacious wall, which serves rather as a dyke when the river 
overflows; that of Arroyo- Jibaro, of a single stone arch, with wooden 
abutments ; that of Alcoy, on the Luyano River, on the road between 

* The name of Bailen, bestowed on it by the company owning: the steamers running 
to the Philippine Islands, is applied especially to their warehouse, which is situated, 
there. 



30 Cuba : 

Havana and Guanabacoa, composed of three arches : it is finished with 
stone, and remarkable for its elegant and bold proportions ; that of 
Batten, in Matanzas, on the San Juan River, formed of two arches : also 
a fine stone work ; that of San Luis, on the same river, built of wood; 
that of Canimar, at the point where it is crossed by the railroad : built 
of wood, and with a single arch, but in bold style; that of Yayabo, in 
Santo Espiritu, of stone, with five arches, and well constructed.* 

Climate— Astronomical Climate.— According to the stated astro- 
nomical position, the island of Cuba is comprised in the third climate of 
hours, the longest day (21st of June) being 13 hours 24 minutes, and the 
shortest (21st December) 10 hours 42 minutes. The longest summer day 
in Havana is from 5.13 a. m. to 6.47 p. m., and the shortest from 6.39 
a. m. to 5.21 p. m., from sunrise to sunset, exclusive of twilight. 

Physical Climate.— We shall indicate the atmospherical phenom- 
ena according to meteorological classification. 

Aerial Phenomena. — As in almost all the countries situated within the 
torrid zone, the air is less dense than in cold climates. The mean press- 
ure at Havana is 759.84 millimetres: the maximum, in January, 770 
millimetres, and the minimum, in October, 747.f With regard to tem- 
perature, as the island of Cuba lies between 20° and 23° north latitude, 
it will be conceived that in the half comprised between 20° and 21° 30' it 
is lower than in the more northerly section. However, its proximity to 
the continent of America occasions frequent changes of temperature, and 
whenihe north-north-west wind is high, cold is experienced even at San- 
tiago de Cuba, situated in the most southern part, although much more 
sensibly on the northern coast, and especially on the highlands of the 
interior, where the nights and mornings are cool enough to require extra 
clothing, and even to render a fire agreeable. The average annual tem- 
perature of Havana is 25° centigrade : J the highest, 32° (observed June, 

* There are many others smaller, but well built ; and at present it is intended to build 
simple, solid, and economical bridges on the central road, and on that of Vuelta-Abajo. 
from San Luis de la Seiba to Pinar del Rio. 

t The barometer in the tropics attains the maximum between 9 and 9£ a. m., falls 
slowly until 12 m., and a little faster until 11 p. m., when it is somewhat lower than at 9 
a. m. : it falls slowly through the night till 4 a. m., and reascends until 9 a. m. Of the 
two maxima, there is one greater than the other, which occurs at 9 a. m., and likewise 
of the two minima, one is least, and takes place at 4 a. m. This minimum of 4 a. m. 
has been found by Don Andres Poey, as neither Humboldt nor other authors make any 
mention of it. During the great hurricane of 1S46 the barometer fell as much as 730 
millimetres. 

X 0° Cent. == 32° Fahr. 21° Cent. = 69.8° Fahr. 31° Cent. = 87.8° Fahr, 

10° « = 50° « 25° " = 77° « 32° " = 89.6° « 

14° " = 57.2° " 27° " = 82.6° " 



Physical, Political, amd Industrial. 31 

1826), and the lowest, 10° (December, 1826) ;* or, deducting extremes, 
31° and 14°. The average temperature of the warmest month was 27°, 
and of the coldest 21°. The average humidity of the atmosphere, as shown 
by the hair hygrometer, is 85° ; the maximum, in November and Decem- 
ber, being 100°, and the minimum, in April, 66°, or 97° and 75°, with- 
out the extremes. 

Winds. — North-easters, called brisas in the island, prevail at almost 
all seasons from 9 to 10 a. m. till sunset. They begin in the east- south- 
east and go as far as east-north-east, at which point they are termed 
brisa alta.f The most prevalent winds, when electrical discharges occur, 
are the south and south-south-west. Their duration is very variable, 
but they rarely last longer than a day, and occur 30 to 40 times during 
the year. The west and north-west winds are unfrequent, and always 
accompanied by rain. The northers, occurring from September to March, 
usually last two days> subsiding on the third, and blow six or eight times 
a year. They are regularly preceded by the south wind, which, veering 
to the west, causes some showers before the norther sets in. Wind- 
spouts or whirlwinds are of frequent occurrence during the dry season ; 
sometimes, although seldom, doing injury to the plantations. Water- 
spouts also are sometimes seen. 

Aqueous Phenomena. — The dew falls very copiously, especially during 
the dry season, but chiefly in December and January. Fogs also occur 
principally in the season of drought. The rain has so fixed and definite 
a period as to determine the seasons, which are divided into two, viz., the 
rainy season and the dry season, or season of northers. The first com- 
mences between May and June, and ends in November, being most active 
in September and October ; the average number of rainy days at Havana 
is 102, and the extremes for several years 185 and 75 days ; 22 days is 
the maximum for a month, and 2 days the minimum. The average fall 
of rain at Havana is 1 ,029 millimetres ; the most, recorded for a year, is 
50 inches 6 lines, and the least 32 inches 7 lines. The most for a month 
(August) 11 inches, and the least (November and December) 2 lines. 
The average of the most rainy months shows 6 inches 4 lines, and of the 
least 1 inch 4 lines. In the interior of the island 133 inches of rain have 

* Don Antonio Eobledo observed in 1S01 a minimum temperature of zero (Eeaumur, 
or 32° Fahr.) in the interior of the country. Don Francisco Lavallee declares that in 
Trinidad, among the mountains, the mercury falls to freezing- poinc on cold nights, 
among which he instances the 13th of February, 1S41. In Madrid, during the summer 
of 1853, it is stated that Eeaumur's thermometer indicated as high as 35°, equal to 
110£-° Fahrenheit, 

t At Santiago de Cuba the south wind is termed brisa (which means north-east 
wind), because, coming from the sea instead of the land, as is the case at other points 
of the north coast, it is cool and agreeable. 



32 Coba: 



fallen in one year, of which 57 inches fell during the most rainy month, 
there „ no notice of snow having fallen, tat it hails almost every year 

r W e^2i:;i^r' parti0ularl7the — d "" ;: - 

^ Electrical Phenomena.-^ average annual number of thunder- 
storms at Havana has heen 18. The greatest number during one year 
32 and the least 7 The most during one month 13, while in others 
not one has occurred. They are most frequent in Jnne, July, August 

tTmeslftlr, ^ ^ th6 tW ° flrSt - named m<>nths th^dT^toZ^ 
tomes hterally ram down m the country. At Havana silent lightnings are 
common, appearmg almost every night from June to October, and W 
mally m July and August. Oftentimes they are seen in every quaX 
but most frequently in the south-east and south-west. These LhtninLs 
correspond to the second class, which, according to M. Aral are sucl 
as, instead of forming sinuous gyrations, almost without apparen e.ten 
embrace on the contrary a vast expanse of the horizon. They are neither 

a™, TV* ^"r th ° Se ° f *»■** °* "*** class, and gen Sly 
appear of a bnght red blue, or purple color, which are the most com 7 
mon they dart from the centre of the clouds, encircling them with a 
vmdhgh On the night of 4th August, M. Poey counted durin! 10 
nnuutes 110 of these lightnings in a south-westerly direction, and Ed* 
zag flashes.* => 

Meteors.-^The appearance of these phenomena is subject to a certain 
periodicity. At snch times they are abundant, and are occasionally seen 
as a luminous shower, like that of the night of November 12 to 13 1833 
when a literal shower of fire was visible from Jamaica to Boston.f ' Prof 
Omstead is of opinion that the point whence these meteors issued was at 
a height of 800 leagues, and consequently beyond our atmosphere. Hum- 
boldt has assigned the following periods : April 22-25 July 17-^6 Au 
gust 10, November 12-14 and 28, 29, and December 6-12.1 We would 
here call the attention of meteorologists to the following fact, stated by 
our friend Don Andres Poey:|| this gentleman having observed the 
meteors during the nights of August 9-12, and November 11-15, 1849 
and 1850 could not count more than 5 or 6 per hour, while on the same 
night of August 9, 10, 1850, there were counted at Yale College (United 
States) as many as 451 in the space of two hours and a quarter Al- 
though we have no notice of the fall of any aerolite in the island.no 
doubt can be entertained of it in view of the frequent app earance of fire 

* See » Anales de la Eeal Junta de Fomento, y Sociedad Econ6mica » Vol. iii No l" 

t See Professor Olmstead's fine article in Silliman's Journal, XXV 

t Cosmos, Vol. i., page 472. 

I "Anales," etc., cited in 1st note, Vol. iii., No. 1. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 33 

balls and other similar phenomena, among which is the above-mentioned 
meteoric shower of November, 1833. 

Phosphorescence of the Sea. — The only data we possess on this point 
as regards the Island of Cuba are the result of observations made by 
Don Andres Poey, in 1850, 1851, and 1853, on the water within and 
without the harbor of Havana ; and the following are the conclusions of 
that gentleman :* 1st. The phosphorescence of the sea observed in the 
harbor of Havana seems to increase from the new moon to the first quar- 
ter, attaining its maximum intensity at the full, and diminishing in the 
second quarter, when it is less than in the first quarter ; consequently 
the first maximum is at the full moon, and the second at the new moon ; 
and the first minimum at the first quarter, and the second at the wane. 
2d. The phosphorescence increases with the greatest high and low tides 
of January. 3d. It increases also during low water more that at high 
water. Respecting the temperature, M. Poey has observed not only a 
certain connection between it and the phosphoric intensity of the water, 
but also with the phases of the moon, when the sky is clear and that orb 
shines brightly. f 

Haloes, Mock Suns, etc. — Haloes and mock suns are of rare occur- 
rence, although both phenomena were observed in 18524 Solar rain- 
bows are very common : the contrary of lunar rainbows, of which a re- 
markable one was observed at Havana in 1849. Of the zodiacal light 
and aurora- borealis there is record of only two instances of the latter 
seen at Havana, the 14th November, 1789, and 17th November, 1848. 
The longest twilight lasts one hour, and the shortest three quarters of 
an hour. During one year the average of clear or alternately clouded 
clays may be set down at 285, and only 80 overcast. The maximum of 
cloudy days during any year has been 107, and the minimum 87. Cases 
wherein the 24 hours have elapsed with an entirely clouded sky are ex- 
ceedingly rare. || 

* Inedited memoir on the increase of phosphorescence of the salt-water of the harbor 
of Havana, in connection with the phases of the moon, the tides, and the temperature 
of the water ; and on the dynamic power of the waters considered as a producing cause 
of the temperature of seas and rivers. 

t 1st. Under a clear sky the temperature of the water was greater at the full of the 
moon than at her other phases, and the phosphorescence likewise was greater. 2d. 
Both increased at high water and at low water. 3d. They likewise increased more at 
low water than at high water. 

X See the notice of a mock sun given by the author of " Apuntes del Terremoto de 
Cuba de Agosto, 1852." 

|| The want of a meteorological observatory in an agricultural country of the import- 
ance of Cuba is daily more sensibly felt. Its establishment was recommended to the 
Junta de Fomento by the author in 1818. In 1S50 our industrious and intelligent young 

2* 



34 Cuba: 

Earthquakes occur seldom in the western part of the island, but are 

inS "Tut eaSter Y art ' alth ° Ugh DOt S ° ™* S ° aS ^ " 
Antilles They are most common in the district of Santiago de Cuba 
where the shocks are successive.* S ' 

Diseases—From what has been said under the head of Physical Cli- 

Zul n"^ , m / erred ^^ thG tem P erat - of the island I mild, al- 
though humid and warm; and if the diseases arising from these last 

ations are on the contrary, of unusual occurrence, especially those in- 

obstot 7 mt T. COld ' " Vi ° lent PUlm0 ^ «»' -ute athri is, 

the climate we shall dmde the year into three periods, viz. : 1st from 

from M ° T J ; 'I" SeaS ° n ° f dr ° Ught aM ° f *» finest weathe ; 2d 
from May to September, a period of excessive heat, rain, and of mos 

atmospheric electricity ; 3d, from September to December, the season of 

STlw "? A , ndr6S P ° ey ' establi8hed one > but a temporary absence of that gentleman 
fiom the island occurring a year after, it was relinquished. At the authoring toe 
Messrs. Charlaxs and Fernandez, booksellers, No. 114 Obispo Street haTLpor ted a 
complete set of compared meteorological instruments of the first class ? * 

in 1 J, T, r , em f arkabIe earth< l uake «^ve been as follows : 11th February, 1675- one 
in 1682, which destroyed the cathedral; June, 1766; July, 1826- Mav 1949 »Z i „V 
all, those of the 20th August and 26th November, 1852, whS se^'toh IrT^eZ 
he globe, since, on the 19th of August, a shock was felt at Cervera (Spain) onZ 2oth 
here was a splendid eruption of Mount Etna ; in Austria a shock that ran. the bel 
the 18th it was felt at St. Domingo; the 25th in Georgia (United States) Sd The irf/ 
of September the inhabitants of Manilla experienced" the mos vS t earluake o 
their records. At Havana only two very slight shocks have been obse ved-on th e7t h 
of July, 177,, and 7th July, 1852. The effect of the earthquake of 20th lulst 1852 n 
the copper mines of San Jose, near the Villa del Cobre,! thus described by an ^e 
witness < I was m the gallery No. 132 (264 varas below the surface) of the Ln Juan 
shaf , d.rec ing the work of a gang of 21 men, when we heard a strange an feaX 
noise, as i the whole m.ne were collapsing. We then felt the earth rising and siS 
and were thrown irom one side of the gal.ery to the other. We seated ourselves onThe 
ground to escape instant death, for we considered death inevitable in t^e end The 
l.ghts tha were fixed to the walls were thrown down and extinguished, adJht total 
darkness to the horrors that involved us. The timbers of the vaults eS^ 
no.se l.ke that of a huge bonfire fed with green wood,andthe filtration of water gTluy 
mcreased. The mine seemed like a thickly-leaved tree laden with dew, and shafen "v 
the storm or by the hand of God. We observed a sulphurous smell and the g ei 
no.se of stones and earth falling from the upper to the lower cavities Altnou4To 
many of us together, we dared not speak, and I believe that we all imagined ou^elvs 
sepul tured forever. The noise lasted over four minutes, although the shocks had 
already ceased It was some time ere we mustered resolution to attempt our exil and 
as we ascended the ladders we had another shock, which would have fhrown u 'off J 
we had not been prepared for it. After great sufferings we finally emerged from the 
mme, expenenomg a degree of pleasurable relief not easily described. Our oppressed 
bosoms expanded like that rf a criminal reprieved at the foot of the gallows » 



Physical, Political, Ai-ru Ldustrial. 35 

deluging rains and of the greatest atmospheric changes. During the 
first period the following complaints prevail : catarrhs and catarrhal 
fevers (due to the cold air and drizzling rain, usually occurring until 
February); ephemeral and intermittent fevers; sore throat, croup, 
rheumatism ; and, in some years, pleurisy, inflammation of the lungs, 
and eruptive fevers. During the second period the most predominant 
are — diarrhoea and other disorders of the digestive apparatus ; yellow- 
fever, small-pox, liver complaint, and, since 1850, Asiatic cholera and 
eruptive fevers ; at the same time instances offer of violent congestion, 
pulmonary inflammation, and pleurisy, likewise neuralgic and nervous 
affections. As regards fevers, the most prevalent at this season are the 
mucous, bilious, remittent (more or less dangerous), typhoid, and brain 
fevers. The third period comprises nearly the same diseases as the sec- 
ond ; however, the yellow-fever and the cholera begin to decline, and 
gradually disappear ; febrile disorders are somewhat aggravated in some 
years, those of a masked and pernicious character predominating ; dys- 
entery also is more common during this period, as also tetanus or locked 
jaw. Within a few years those cases of very acute consumption which 
sometimes destroy the patient in two months, are of very frequent oc- 
currence. Notwithstanding that it has been stated by some writers that 
the climate of Cuba is unfavorable to human life, many and remarkable 
instances of longevity can be cited, among them those of several Indians 
who died during the last century at the age of 180 and 120 years, many 
persons (principally colored) who had attained the age of 119 years, and 
a great number that have died at over 90 years of age.* 

Animals. — Mammalia. — The indigenous species still existing are the 
following : the almiqui, a carnivorous and nocturnal animal, feeding 
chiefly on insects, and having a long snout ; the jutia, of which two kinds 
are known, viz. : the congo (called quemi by the Indians), easily domes- 
ticated, and having a conical tail ; and the carabali (known to the ab- 
origines as guaminiquinar), inhabiting the mountains, and very un- 
tractable; its tail is long and bushy; and the cori, at present called 
curiel.f Besides these quadrupeds there existed, at the time of the 

* In 1847 was published in the Diario de la Marina a relation of well-authenticated 
cases of unusual longevity. According to the official statistics of 1S46 there were then 
in the island 29 persons over 100 years of age ; viz., 4 of 101, 6 of 102, 1 of 103, 4 of 104, 
4 of 105, 3 of 106, 1 of 10T, 1 of 110, 3 of 111, 1 of 115, and 1 of 116. Our list of those 
now living includes a fisherman on the south coast who has completed his 112th year, 
and each of his two sons are over 80, and a distributer (!) of the Faro newspaper in 1S51 , 
who was more than 96 years old. 

t The early historians mention also the following mammiferous animals : the aire 
and the mohi or mohui, which are not known at the present day, although the latter is 
supposed to be the aguti; also a mute-dog, supposed by some to be the species of dog 



36 Cuba : 

Conquest, both in this island and St. Domingo, other mammiferous ani- 
mals, such as the bat, of which about 20 species are known, some of 
them of the vampyre genus ; the whale, the dolphin, and the manati or 
sea-cow, which frequents the coasts and bays affording sub-marine 
springs of fresh-water, as at Jagua. The domestic animals introduced 
by the Spaniards were the horse, ass, camel, ox, sheep, goat, hog, cat, 
house-dog, deer, the rabbit, and the rat. The horses of the island 
(generally of medium size, as descending from the Andalusian breed, 
which is of Arabian origin) are strong, spirited, and swift, but lack 
the intelligent expression of their forefathers. The paso or amble is the 
most usual gait, and is natural to all horses foaled on the island. The 
ass is not common in the island, the climate being apparently unfavor- 
able to it ; it is imported more for the purpose of breeding mules than 
for the increase of the legitimate race, mules being much used for car- 
riage on all rural establishments. The camel, originally from Asia, has 
been introduced from the Canary Islands within a few years, but its 
usefulness, and probably its multiplication, is much impeded by the 
nigua or chigoe, an insect infesting its feet and almost preventing it 
from walking. The bovine race was introduced by Columbus on his 
second voyage ; it is fine, strong, and corpulent.* The hog was taken to 
St. Domingo the year following the discovery ; they increased so rapidly 
in that island, that it was found necessary to reduce their number, as 
they injured the sugar-cane plantations. The same was the case in 
Cuba, and Oviedo states that already, in his time, a vast number were 
running wild among the mountains. The hogs of Cuba have a wild ap- 
pearance, doubtless in consequence of the roving life they lead on the 
plantations where they are bred. The criollo or yard-hog is distin- 
guished from the gallego, or that bred on the petty farms. The former, 
which feeds chiefly on the berry of the palm, acorns (in some districts 
of the Vuelta-Abajo), and generally on wild fruit and maize, is small, 
active, and wild ; its flesh is exceedingly palatable, and has a peculiar 
flavor, extending to the fat, which is very scarce, and resembles in color 
alone the bacon of Europe, f The other is larger, and better adapted for 



called alco, or the washing-bear of Linnseus, called mapache in Mexico, and a species 
of canis, of the genera vulpes. At all events, these three species, together with the 
curiel, seem not to have been indigenous, but brought over from the continent before 
the discovery. Some modern writers mention another mammifer, under the name of 
tacuache, but Senor Poey, in his "Notes on the Natural History of the Island," denies 
that it ever existed. 

* In the district of Guaimaro, on the heights called Gaguita, is a pigmy breed of 
oxen without tails, which are of very strange appearance, and supposed to be verj 
ancient. 

t It is esteemed in Europe and the United States for these qualities. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 37 

fattening, for which purpose it is almost exclusively raised. It is said 
that the criollo breed may be distinguished from the gallego by the 
greater roundness of the ribs of the former. The difference in flavor is 
attributed to difference of race. In mountainous and unpeopled districts 
there are a considerable number of wild hogs, called orejdnos. Sheep 
do not prosper much in Cuba. The race introduced by the colonists 
was the common or coarse-wooled In consequence of the wool being 
neglected, no use being made of it in so warm a climate, it has been 
observed that, when the animal has attained its full growth, it loses its 
wool, shedding it in crusts, when it is succeeded by a sleek coat of hair, 
like that of the goat; a change which also takes place in South America. 
Its flesh is not generally used, except in Havana and Cuba, and on some 
of the larger plantations, where the consumption is considerable. Its 
milk is used in some parts of the western department for making cheese. 
The goat is exceedingly useful, and the breed known as isleiia (from the 
Canaries) yields abundance of milk, which is availed of for children, 
and in some cases medicinally. The breed of goats, like that of hogs, is 
supposed to be a distinct race from that of Europe. It was introduced 
from the Canary Islands. The house-dog has multiplied exceedingly ; 
some have become wild, and do much damage to cattle. Many varieties 
have been introduced within the present century. Deer have been in- 
troduced within the century ; at first in the vicinity of Bahia-Honda, 
and afterward in Cuba, where the number is sufficient to supply the 
market daily. Rabbits were brought to America at a very remote 
period ; they do not multiply much, in consequence of the rats which 
destroy many of them. Rats (originally from Hindostan), introduced 
soon after the Conquest, have multiplied extraordinarily throughout 
city and country, doing great damage to the sugar-cane and the corn 
in the warehouses. The cat is of the European breed, and some have 
become wild. 

Birds.— The island contains a great number of species, over 240 hav- 
ing been enumerated.* Among the birds of prey are found the aura 
tinosa, belonging to the buzzard family, and which is so useful to public 
health; the cerniculo or kestrel, a veritable falcon, although small ; 
the caraira or Brazilian eagle ; and the well-known nocturnal birds of 
prey, the owl, the siju, and the siguapa. The order of smaller birds is 
still more abundant in species, and comprises the sinsonte, styled by 
naturalists polyglot orpheus, for its faculty of imitating all other ani- 
mals ; the pitirre or robin, whose persecution of the aura is so well 



* See the works published by D. Kamon de la Sagra, D. Juan Lembeye, and D. 
Andr6s and Don Felipe Poey. 



38 Cuba : 

known. Many species of fringillae, among which are distinguished the 
negrito, the azulejo, the tomeguin, and others remarkable for the beau- 
tiful colors of their plumage;* the cao, representative of the crow 
family, and many others. There are also swallows, which spend the 
winter here and the summer in North Carolina; the chotacabras or goat- 
sucker, also called guaraiba, a nocturnal bird, with the bill cleft to the 
ears, rendering it the largest-mouthed of all birds. Finally, we should 
mention the pedorrera, beautiful for the multitude of its colors, and the 
martm-pescador (king-fisher) or zabullidor, both very common in the 
vicinity of the coasts. Of the colibri or trochilus family there are 
several, which vary in size, the smallest being little more than an inch 
in length. There are also several carpenter-birds (including the royal) ; 
the tocororo, a splendid bird, brightly and variously colored; the arri- 
ero ; the judia ; the cotorra or parrot ; the paroquet (periquito), etc., 
form the group of climbing -birds. Of gallinaceous birds are the com- 
mon turkey, the cock or rooster, with its numerous varieties, the Guinea- 
fowl, and a multitude of pigeons, among which are distinguished the 
tojosita, the torcaz, and that improperly called perdiz or partridge, 
which is blue-headed. Wading or long-legged birds are numerous 
about the coasts, rivers, and lakes; and we notice the frailecillo, called 
vodferus by naturalists for its loud cries ; the sevilla, with a spatular- 
shaped-bill; the cocos, one of which is of the ibis kind; various kinds 
of cranes and herons ; the flamingo, of a purple red ; and, lastly, the 
galhto, with great spurs on its wings, the widgeon, and the gallinuela. 
There are many species of aquatic birds : the saramagullon, remarkable 
for its upright position ; the pelican; the cor G a or sea-crow; the rabi- 
ahorcado or frigate-pelican; the rabij unco ; the sea-gull; the pampero, 
and many more. Besides the goose should be mentioned many kinds of 
ducks, among which are distinguished the yaguaza or wild-duck, and 
the huyuyo, of various and finely-colored plumage. Of the above 
mentioned the common fowl or rooster and the goose were introduced 
into America from Europe, 

Reptiles.— There are found in the island species of every order : 
there are turtles or tortoises, which sometimes attain a great size ; the 
caguama; the carey or shell- tortoise, abounding on the north coast, 
and formerly the object of a profitable fishery; and the jicotea or mud- 
turtle. Of the saurian family are two species of crocodiles, one of which 
(acutus) is vulgarly miscalled caiman or alligator ; the other (rhom- 

* la 1S50 a number of sr arrows, brought from Spain, were set loose in the gar.ien 
of one of the convents in the capital, and it is observed that they are multiplying 
rapidly. ' } * 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 39 

biferus) has only been found on the southern coast, especially on the 
island of Pinos and its neighborhood. Many species of lizards are also 
to be met with, of various form and size, among others that vulgarly 
called chamelion, although not belonging to that kind. There are two 
species of iguanas ; one small, about a foot in length, which is found 
in the vicinity of Havana, at the foot of the Loma del Castillo del 
Principe ; and the other, sometimes two yards long, abounds on the 
north coast and among the keys. Among the ophidians may be noticed 
the majd. (boa angulifer), and about twelve species of jubos, none of 
which are venomous. Several species of frogs and toads of great size, 
and a few other batrachians, complete the list of Cuban reptiles. 

Fish. — Among those of bony structure, which are exceedingly abund- 
ant in the island, the principal ones are the pargo, the rabirubia, the 
atun or tunny-fish (very rare), the aguja de paladar, the dorado, the 
masejuelo, the cherna or ruffle, and many others, comprising some that 
are dangerous to eat on account of the ciguatera or sickness that they 
cause; of these the most dangerous are the picuda,* the jurel, the 
morena-verde, the coronado, etc., although they are not all unwholesome, 
nor at all seasons. Among those of cartilaginous structure are many 
species of sharks : the shark proper is very dangerous and abundant ; 
the female is called tintorera, and the cub, cazon ; they have also been 
found fossilized, and teeth of the largest species known.f There are also 
the cornuda, the gata, the alecrin, provided with formidable teeth, and 
the saw-fish, so called from the form of the weapon it bears, although 
it is also improperly termed sword-fish.! The cornuda has a short and 
very broad head, comparable to a hammer, which name is therefore 
vulgarly applied to it. 

Insects. — The species common to Cuba, although not so fine and bril- 
liant as those of the Brazils and East Indies, are very numerous. Among 
them we notice the cocuyo or fire-fly, which abounds in May and June; 
a small insect (anobium bibliothecarium) which destroys books, and 
another that eats dry tobacco; the native bee, which produces dark- 
colored wax, and has no sting ; the Spanish or stinging-bee, brought 
from Florida in 1764, and producing white wax as fine as that of Venice. 
There are many species of ants ; among them the bibijagua, destructive 
to plants, and the common species introduced from Europe ; the come- 

* There are three species of picuda: the picuda, the picudilla, and the guaguanche; 
the last two are not considered unwholesome. 

t (Squalus carcharias.) We have seen two of these fossils; one found in digging a 
well in Guamutas, and the other in the neighborhood of Jarnco. 

% The true sword-fish is of the Mediterranean, and is rarel} 7 met with on these 
coasts, where neither the cod, the pollock, nor the bi>am are found. 



40 Cuba : 

jen or tliermes, greatly destructive to wood ; the bed-bug (an exotic in- 
sect) has been introduced into the island as everywhere ; the nigua or 
chigoe, of the flea kind, which is also termed penetrans, from its habit 
of introducing itself under the skin of animals and frequently doing 
much injury ; the louse, and the flea ; a species of coccus, vulgarly 
termed guagua, introduced about 1833 : it has done very considerable 
damage to the orange, lime, and other trees. There are over 300 kinds 
of butterfly (chiefly indigenous), among which are remarkable the 
urania fernandina, most brilliantly colored, and commonly found at 
Cojimar ; the caterpillar develops itself on the nut-tree, called avellano 
de costa; the palomilla, which attacks the sugar-cane, is a nocturnal 
butterfly of the genera crambus. There are some 300 species of fly, 
some adorned with metallic spots ; one kind is improperly termed cantha- 
ride by the natives on account of its color, which is metallic, and very 
similar to the true cantharide or Spanish fly, which is a coleopterus ; 
more than 12 kinds of mosquitoes, comprising the corasi, the zancudo or 
common musquito, the jagiiey, the jejen, the guasasa, and the rodador. 
Of the spider family we notice the arana peluda or hairy spider, very 
venomous, but not mortally so. There are two kinds of scorpions, neither 
mortally venomous ; ticks abound in the country, and are very annoy- 
ing to cattle. There is a species of centipede, and another of manca- 
perro or dog-maimer. The moth, which destroys paper, is indigenous, 
and belongs to the genera lepisma. Of Crustacea there are several 
species, the most notable being the ajae, found at some distance from the 
coast; the cangrejo moro or Moorish crab; the gallo crab; thejaiba 
or soft crab; there are also large lobsters, and both salt and fresh- 
water shrimps. Among molluscs are the pulpo or cuttle-fish, and cala- 
mar or sea-sleeve, of many kinds. There are many testacea, both uni- 
valve and bivalve (commonly called shells and conches), the longoron 
being distinguished among the latter; two kinds of clams, and the 
oyster, which is small but finely flavored. At the mouth of the Miel 
River (Baracoa) are found mother-of-pearl shells. Sigua is the name 
of a univalve mollusc of the genera turbus ; it is very indigestible. 
Among zoophites are many herizos or urchins, and star-fish ; aguamares 
(vulgarly aguamalas), which comprise the medusa abounding in the 
harbor of Havana ; many polypi, living congregated in polypedes, and 
exuding a calcareous matter the same as the gorgoneas which form the 
sea-fan and sea-broom. There are corals of commercial importance, and 
many sponges on the northern keys. The rivers contain several species 
of the leech. 

Vegetables.— The following are arranged in the order of their most 
general application : 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 41 

Precious Woods.— Mahogany,* caobilla, cedar, lignum vitce or 
guayacan, ebony (royal and coal), white and black curbano, carey, 
granadillo, hayajabico, naranjo, yaiti, and cafe. 

Building Timber.— Acana, jijon (resembling mahogany), almendro 
or almond-tree, quiebra-hacha, carne de doncella, chicharron, jaimiqui, 
jiqui, tengue, maboa, frijolillo, sabina, guao, yaba, yaya, black and 
white oak, pitch-pine, evergreen oak (only in Vuelta-Abajo), joc(ima, 
ocuje, moruro, seiba (for canoes), royal palm (for boards), majagua, 
strong and elastic ; barza, guiro, etc. 

Plants for other Useful Purposes.— Dagame, yagruma, ateje, 
brasilete, fustic or dyewood (largely exported from the east of the 
island), mangrove, jiquilete (yielding a blue dye), cavalonga, bambu or 
bamboo, also called wild cane; giiin, aguedita, febrifuga, almacigo or 
mastich, algarrobo or locust, jaboncillo, daguilla, copal, black pepper, 
cinnamon, drago (dragon-tree), nralberry, grape, many sorts of palm, 
comprising the royal palm (one of the most beautiful and useful trees in 
the island), the cocoanut palm (growing wild at Baracoa), the corozo. 
the manaca, the cana, the yarei, the palma-barrigona or big-bellied- 
palm, the jata, the miraguano, and the exotic date-palm. 

Medicinal Plants.— Ateje comun, cedar, arraigan, caicimon, yer- 
bahedionda, aguedita, escoba-amarga, malva (mallows), malva blanca 
sabia-cimarrona (wild sage), ociije, rabo de zorra, guaguasi, mancei, 
aji-guaguao (green pepper), bija (anatto), yagruma hembra, picapica 
(cow-itch), apasote (basil), gramas (panic-grass), lenatero, almacigo 
(mastich), pimienta (black pepper), guira cimarrona, yedra (ivy), 
bledo (strawberry-blite) comun y carbonero, sanguinaria (knot-grass), 
yerbabuena cimarrona (wild mint), sandoval, verdolaga (purslain)i 
caimito, romerillo bianco (white rosemary), zarzaparilla, raiz dp China 
(China-root), calaguala, etc. 

Poisonous Plants.— Manzanilla, pini-pini, yaba, cabo dehacha. jaba- 
cana; camagiiey and prieto (vines) ; yuca agria (when not subjected to 
fire), the seed of the poma rosa, and tobacco. 

Fruits.— Among those indigenous to the island are distinguished the 
delicious pine-apple, the sweet and aromatic anon, the nispero or mess- 
apple, also called zapote ; the acana, very similar to the preceding ; the 
caimito, caimitillo, ciruela or plum, guanabana or sour-sop, mamey 
Colorado, mamoncillo, papaya (papaw), guayaba cotorrera (guava), of 

* The mahogany tree is exceedingly abundant in the island, and in the eastern part 
the wood is of as line a quality as that of Hayti. In 1S08 one was cut down at Ja-ua 
.or the Principe de la Paz which measured over 10 feet in diameter, and in 1S50 the 
author saw one at Hanabana measuring 3£ Cuban varat in diameter. Several cedars 
have also been found of nearly the same dimensions. 



42 Cuba : 

the kind most suitable for preserves ; mamon, maranon, uva caleta (a 
grape), mora (mulberry), platano (plantain), agua-cate (alligator-pear), 
hicaco (cocoa-plum), zapote de culebra, sour orange, lime, jobo, mamey 
amarillo or de St. Domingo, etc. Among the exotic fruit are the water- 
melon, the musk-melon, fig, strawberry, the Spanish grape (there being 
a native species, but very small and sour), the Peruvian guava, canistel, 
pomegranate, sweet or China orange, and cajel orange; toronjas or 
shaddocks, lima or sweet lemon, the French lemon, gooseberry, date, 
corojo, cautel, etc. 

Mineral*.* — Metallic Substances. — Gold has been found in the 
district of Pinar del Rio; at las Minas, in Bacuranao district; at Canasi ; 
in the rivers Damuji and Caonao, which empty into Jagua Bay; in those 
of Sagua la Grande and Agabama, near the Escambray Mountain ; in 
the mines of San Fernando (worked by the early inhabitants) ; in the 
mountains of Trinidad ; in the Saramaguacan ; in the hato of Monacos, 
and those of Holguin, Bayamo, and Nipe ; in the Mayari River (of 18 to 
20 carats) f and in the Caney River. Silver: according to history and 
the investigations of Don Jose Escalante, silver has been found in the 
mines of San Fernando, in the Escambray Mountains ; it is also to be 
found at Pinar del Rio, Canasi, and Yumuri. Copper of superior quality 
abounds in all the island, being one of the chief exports from Santiago 
de Cuba. Iron is abundant at Vuelta- Abajo; in the Trinidad and Escam- 
bray Mountains ; very abundant in the mountains of the Pinar, south 
of Mayari, and generally throughout the island, but no mine is worked. 
Lead-mines have been found in several places but not explored. 

Stony Substances. — Amianthus (silicate) abounds in the mountains 
between Trinidad and Cienfuegos ; in those of Escambray it is of fine 
quality ; also in the Guanabacoa Mountains. Loadstone, or magnetic 
oxide of iron, found in Guanabacoa ; among the mountains of Trinidad 

* The author is indebted for the greater part of the matter of this article to his 
learned friends Messrs. Velazquez, Auber, Poey, Lembeye, Lanier, and especially to 
Dr. Cayetano Aguilera, Professor of Chemistry of the Eoyal University, who has made 
excursions through the western department of the island, with the sole purpose of 
studying its geological constitution, and to collect minerals. In the Guia de Forasteros 
of the present year, 1853, have been published some notes on the mines registered by 
the royal treasury in 1852. 

t In the Memorias de la Real Sociedad fleonomica for 1839 (page 354), is a note 
on the situation of a gold-mine at Mayari. With regard to the amount of gold ex- 
ported from the island by the discoverers, we refer to Sr. Sagra's work, wherein he 
says, "From these simple notes there results a total of $260,000 worth of gold received 
from the Island of Cuba from 1815 to 1S34, but as the records of a great many other 
remittances are wanting, this sum can only be considered a minimum." We recom- 
mend the perusal of Sr. Sagra's article on Geology and Mineralogy, which affords all 
the information that can be had on those subjects. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 43 

is one composed of this mineral ; in the Jaragua Mountains, and in all 
those of the eastern part of the island, there being a great quarry of 
it near the Caney. Coal: at Consolacion del Norte, Mantua, Bahia- 
Honda, Bacuranao, Guanabo, Canasi, Camarioca, Matanzas, Cardenas, 
Palmarejo, etc. Crystallized chalcedony: at Guanabacoa ; and in the 
district of Cienfuegos rock crystal (hyaline quartz) abounds. Marble 
is found in several parts of the island, but abundantly, and in greater 
variety, in the island of Pinos, at Trinidad, San Antonio, San Diego de 
los Banos, Bahia-Honcla, Guane,* and Baj a, comprising statuary marble 
of superior quality, but scarce ; also stalactite, snow-white, and so fine 
and transparent that it is equal to alabaster. Granite : in the moun- 
tains of Vuelta-Abajo ; in the vicinity of Havana ; in the mountains of 
Trinidad, Escambray, and Baracoa, and in the island of Pinos ; also near 
Santiago, where it is similar to that of the Escorial. Rock crystal 
(hyaline quartz) abounds throughout the island. Limestone: very 
plenty, and frequently found crystallized as spar. Gypsum is found of 
bad quality; although at a place called Cayo de los Perros, in the 
district of San Juan de los Remedios, it is compact and sufficiently pure. 
Carbonated lime : there is a fine bank of it, about three leagues wide 
and six long, at the origin of the Guines River. Sand and refractory 
clay : the town of Cano is founded on a bank of this mineral ; it is 
a species of pumice-stone, in transition to yellow sand, and serves 
exceedingly well for the manufacture of fire-brick. Slate or schist 
is found throughout the island, especially on the Guacamayas River, 
district of Las Pozas, where it is of the best quality. The town of 
Caney is founded on a rock of white schist. Sulphate of Baryta or 
heavy spar : to be found in the eastern department. Serpentine : in 
Guanabacoa and the eastern department, where there are both kinds. 
The town of Las Pozas rests on a bank of serpentine. 

Inflammable Minerals. — Asphaltum (called chapapote) is very 
abundant, especially at Guanabacoa, Mariel, and Bahia-Honda, between 
the Haciendas la Barbara and Maniabon, 14 leagues from Holguin, also 
on the Hacienda San Antonio, 8 leagues from Nuevitas. Rocksalt: there 
is a mine of it in Bacunayagua.f 

Mineral Waters. — Cuba possesses many of the finest in the world, 
but, unfortunately, the majority have not been analyzed. Among the 
most interesting, are those of San Diego de los Banos, which are sul- 

* At this place and its vicinity are found almost all varieties of fine marble ; and 
also beautiful grottos containing gigantic stalactites of the most fanciful forms. 

t Sr. Aguiler'a has found in the vicinity of Las Pozas blood-red jasper, cornelian, 
agate, feldspar, quartzose sand, magnetic pyrites, lignite or fossil coal, compact gra- 
phite, foliaceous antimony, and bismuth and tellurium. 



44 Cuba: 

phurous, as analyzed by Messrs. Estevez, Casaseca, and Sanchez ;* San 
Juan de Contreras, sulphurous ; Charco-Azul, sulphurous ; Copey, ni- 
trous ; Almendares (see analysis in the sequel) ; Guanabacoa, of many 
kinds ; Santa Maria del Rosario ; Madruga, similar to those of San Diego, 
but imperfectly analyzed ; San Miguel, at the foot of Loma de San Juan, 
similar to those of San Diego ; San Pedro and Santa Ana ; Ciego Mon- 
tero, six leagues from Cienfuegos, sulphuro-gaseous ; Banos de la Bija, 
eight and a half leagues from Cienfuegos ; Mayajigua ; Guadalupe ; 
Camujiro; Dumanuceos; and Brazo-fuerte ; and in Pinos island those 
of Santa Fe.f In the hamlet of Cantarrana there is a well of mineral 
water highly recommended for dropsy and other diseases. 



POLITICAL AND INDUSTRIAL GEOG- 
RAPHY. 

Population. — The absolute population of the island appears to be 
1,050,000^ of which 1,009.060 are stationary, and the rest transitory. 
Of the former, 501,988 are white, 176,647 free-colored, and 330,425 
slaves ; and supposing the 40,940 constituting the floating population to 
be white, we have a total of 542,928 white and 507,072 colored. The 
former comprise about 90,000 from Spain, 25,000 from the Canary 
Islands, 3,000 French, 1,000 English, and 3,000 Americans and of other 
nations, so that the number of native whites is over 400,000. With re- 
gard to the relative population, as the island, together with its adjacent 
territories, has an area of 3,973 square leagues, the proportion is 254 
inhabitants per square league, or 29 per square mile. Consequently, 
the Island of Cuba is more thickly populated than 20 of the 31 United 
States of North America (Florida has but one inhabitant per square 
mile) ; than each one of the Spanish-American States ; than the Brazils ; 
and than Sweden and Norway. 

Religion.— The Roman Catholic and Apostolic is the only form of 
worship tolerated in the island. 

Territorial Division?.— They may be reduced to four classes, viz., 
natural, topographical, vulgar, and administrative. 



* See the Memoria on these baths, published by Sr. Sanchez, Havana, 1851. 

t According to the analysis made by Sr. Caro, and published in the '• Bevista de Ja 
Havana," the waters of these baths belong to the order of saline excitants, and must, 
therefore, possess important therapeutical properties. That gentleman is occupied in 
analyzing other waters in the island. 

I Besides the causes that in all countries oppose statistical perfection, there are 
others peculiar to those where slavery exists, for which reason no one can doubt that 
the population of the island is 1,500,000, and that of Havana 180,000. 



Physical, Political, akd Industrial. 45 

The Natural or Physico-geographical are two : continent, as 
the island is usually termed ; and adjacent keys, which comprises the 
islands and keys belonging to the Island of Cuba and surrounding it. 
When the island is spoken of in a general sense, the adjacent islands 
and keys are also included. 

Topographically, the island is divided into cities, villas, towns, vil- 
lages, hamlets, and rancherias, or hut-groups ; and besides, into private 
possessions, severally classified as hatos, corrales* potreros, ingenios, 
cafetales, and sitios de labor or estancias, the description of which 
will be found under the head of Agriculture. At the present day are 
styled cities,* Havana, Cuba, Matanzas, Puerto Principe, Trinidad, Ba- 
yamo, Holguin, Baracoa, Santiago or St. Jago, Bejucal, Jaruco, Santa 
Maria del Rosario, Nuevitas, and Nueva Paz (the two last without ayun- 
tamientos or corporations). Villas, are Guanabacoa, Giiines, Santo 
Espiritu, San Juan de los Remedios, Villa Clara, Cienfuegos, and San 
Antonio de los Baiios, while measures are being taken to obtain the 
same title for Pinar del Rio, San Cristobal or Candelaria, and Cardenas. 

Navigators divide the island into Windward and Leeward, or east and 
west of the meridian wherever any one may be, but especially that of 
Havana. 

Vulgar Divisions. — In the first place are the well-known divisions 
of Vuelta-Arriba and Vuelta-Abajo, generic terms applied to the terri- 
tory on the east or west of the person using the term wherever he may 
be. Thus, for instance, the jurisdiction of Santo Espiritu is in the 
Vuelta-Abajo as regards the resident of Puerto Principe, but contrary- 
wise, or in the Vuelta-Arriba, relatively to the resident of Havana. 
However, in speaking of the island in general, by Vuelta-Abajo is un- 
derstood the territory comprised between the rivers Sierra Morena and 

* At the present day the distinction between the terms City and Villa may be deem- 
ed a purely honorary one ; but formerly, the first was applied to those communities, 
usually large, which, by their importance, historical associations, or especial services, 
obtained privileges or supremacy over the rest. The Villas also enjoyed marked pre- 
eminences (though not as many as the cities), among which was the privilege of 
having their own proper boundaries and jurisdictions. Seignories or manors were also 
held in the island by the founders of the villas of Bejucal, Santa Maria del Rosario, 
Jaruco, and San Antonio de los Banos, but were suppressed in 1811, although some 
continued in fact until a few years ago. Pioeblos, or towns, are termed all communi- 
ties of 50 houses and upward, which do not possess the title of either villa or cily; 
aldeas, or villages, assemblages of 12 to 50 houses; easerios, or hamlets, such as fall 
short of 12 houses; and rancherias, those places where there are ranchos, or huts, 
especially those of fishermen on the coasts or runaways in their haunts. As these clas- 
sifications in this island depend more on the number of houses than of inhabitants, 
it is well to state that all houses within 500 metres of the main group are considered 
as belonging to it. 



46 Cuba : 

Hanabana as far as Cape San Antonio ; but in speaking of that territory 
alone, the term Vuelta-Abajo is applied to that part lying east of the 
meridian of Havana. As applied to distinguish a certain class of tobac- 
co, the term especially comprises the territory between the San Diego 
river and Cape San Antonio, producing the best tobacco in the world, 
universally known as of the Vuelta-Abajo. Partidos de afuera (outer 
districts), or Los Partidos, is applied to the territory between the merid- 
ians of Havana and San Cristobal ; and Partidos de adentro (inner 
districts) to that comprised between the meridian of San Cristobal and 
Cape San Antonio.* Partidos de los Llanos (districts of the plains) is 
the denomination sometimes given to the territory comprised between 
the jurisdictions of Cardenas, Sagua la Grande, Cienfuegos, Villa Clara., 
and southern part of Matanzas, Tierr a- adentro (meaning the interior 
country) is another expression commonly used in Havana to designate 
the territory comprised between the jurisdiction of Cienfuegos and those 
of Puerto Principe and Nuevitas, both inclusive, and even at times ex- 
tended farther east unto the territories of the jurisdictions of Tunas, 
Holguin, Manzanillo, and Bayamo, although some persons, more proper- 
ly, exclude the sea-ports.f Territorio de las cuatro Villas. — Under this 
name used to be comprised the territory corresponding to the jurisdic- 
tions of Trinidad, Santo Espiritu, Remedios, and Santa Clara, but since 
the last has been divided into the jurisdictions of Cienfuegos and Sagua 
la Grande, such a denomination is improper, particularly as Cienfuegos 
now ranks as a villa and Trinidad as a city. 

Administrative Division. — The six principal branches of administra- 
tive science have in the island their determinate territorial divisions, 
but without suitable unity ; however, measures are being taken to se- 
cure this end, which is the basis of all good administration. 

Political Division. — The political territorial division is as follows. 
The entire territory of the island constitutes a single province, under 
the command of a superior political governor and vice-royal patron, and 
is subdivided into three governments, viz., that of Havana, in charge of 
the superior political governor, that of Matanzas, and that of Cuba, 
which also has annexed the vice-royal patronate, without dependence in 
this branch on that of Havana. The dividing line of the government 
df Matanzas extends from the port of Canasi to the confluence of the 
rivers Negro and Gonzalo with the Hatiguanico Biver, then following 
the course of the Gonzalo till near the lagoon of Tesoro, whence it runs 



* Noda : — notes published in the " Guia de Forasteros" (Stranger's Guide) for 1841 
and '42. Notes on the Tobacco of the Island of Cuba, 1S52. 
t See the excellent Dictionary of Cuban phrases by Don Ksteban Pichardo. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 47 

toward the north with various windings as far as Point Camacho, leaving 
the town of Corral-Falso in the jurisdiction of Cardenas, and that of 
Aguacate in the jurisdiction of Jaruco. The dividing line between the 
governments of Havana and Cuba is the same that divides the arch- 
bishopric and the bishopric, and the military departments and intend- 
ancies.* The governments are divided into petty or inferior districts, 
although when of great extent, like those of Havana and Cuba, they 
are subdivided into lieutenant-governorships, comprising several petty 
districts. The civil and rural wards and the petty districts are sub- 
divided into quarters. The civil wards are in charge of celadores, or 
commissaries of police ; the rural wards and petty districts are com- 
manded by district-captains, and the quarters by patrol -corporals. 
There are, besides, four small districts styled colonies, subject to the 
immediate command of a military officer called director, but dependent 
on the government in whose territory they are situated, viz., the colonies 
of Reina Amalia or Nueva Gerona (on the island of Pinos), of Santo 
Domingo, and of Caibarien, dependent on the government of Havana, 
and that of Moa on the government of Cuba.t The government of 
Havana has in immediate dependency the districts or lieutenant-gov- 
ernorships of Pinar del Rio, San Cristobal, Bahia-Honda, Mariel, San 
Antonio, Santiago de las Vegas, Bejucal, Guanabacoa, Santa Maria del 
Rosario, Giiines, Jaruco, Cardenas, Sagua la Grande, Cienfuegos, Santa 
Clara or Villa Clara, Trinidad, San Juan de los Remedios, and Santo 
Espiritu.J The government of Matanzas has dependent on it, politically, 
no lieutenant- governorship, but, militarily, it has the lieutenant- 
governorship of Cardenas. On the government of Cuba depend the 
jurisdictions or lieutenant -governorships of Puerto Principe, Nuevitas, 
Tunas, Bayamo, Manzanillo, Holguin, Jiguani, Guantanamo, and 
Baracoa. 

Ecclesiastical Division. — The ecclesiastical administration of the 
island is divided between two dioceses — the archbishopric of Cuba and 
the bishopric of Havana. || The boundary line extends from the mouth 
of the river Yana, opposite the eastern extremity of Turiguano island, 
to within a mile and a half east of Sabana-la-mar embarking-place, on 
the south coast, dividing the island nearly through its centre. Both 
dioceses are divided into outer vicarages and curacies, and the arch- 



* See the royal decree of 21 October, 1S53. 

t This last has no existence in fact, as it contains but two inhabitants. 
t The island of Pinos is a colony and district of the jurisdiction of Havana. 
|l Subject to the archbishopric, besides the bishopric of Havana, is that of Porto 
Rico. 



48 Cuba : 

bishopric and bishopric are respectively superior one to the other in 
cases of appeal. 

Judicial Division.~The judicial branch of affairs is subject to a court 
of judicature residing at Havana, and styled Real Audiencia Pretorial 
de la Habana.* 

Military Division.-The territory of the island constitutes a captain- 
generalship, and is subdivided (since 1851) into two departments— the 
western and eastern.f Each department is under the authority of a 
commandant-general, and is subdivided into sections and command- 
ancies of arms; each section is in charge of a chief, and in every com- 
mandancy of arms there is a subaltern judge with limited faculties. The 
boundary line of both departments is the same ecclesiastical boundary 
between the two dioceses. With the title of General Commandant of 
the Cantons, there is a chief in the jurisdictions of Trinidad, Villa 
Clara, Kemedios, Santo Espiritu, Cienfuegos, and Sagua la Grande, with 
casual exercise of authority, and immediately dependent on the captain- 
general. There is also one of the same class in the Mariel. 

Treasury Division.— With regard to the royal treasury, the island 
constitutes a delegated general superintendency, and is subdivided into 
two intendancies, viz., that of Havana and that of Cuba, each subject 
to an intendant under the direction of the superintendent-general, and 
with the character and attributes of an intendant of the army. The two 
intendancies are subdivided into delegations and administrations, and 
these into receptories. The lieutenant-governors are delegates of the 
districts. 

^ Maritime Division.— -The Havana constitutes a naval station, the 
jurisdiction of which extends to the island of Porto Rico. It is subject 
to a superior commandant, who is the captain-general, and a general 
commandant, whose authority is vested in an officer of high rank. The 
maritime division of the island was established about the end of 1828, 

* There was another at Puerto Principe, but by royal decree of 21 October, 1853, 
it was suppressed, and the territory, affairs, and archives were incorporated with that 
of Havana. The said Audiencia, or judiciary court of Puerto Principe, is the same 
that was established in 1511 at Santo Domingo, and in consequence of the revolution 
in that island, was transferred hither in 1800. The Meal Audiencia, Pretorial of 
Havana was installed in 1839. 

t From 1826 to September, 1851, the island was divided into three military depart- 
ments, the western, central, and eastern, the dividing line between the first two being 
-he eastern limits of the lieutenant-governorships of Sagua la Grande and Cienfuegos, 
and between the last two the eastern limits of the lieutenant-governorships of Nuevitas 
and Puerto Principe. In said monlh of September, 1 851, was established, ad interim, 
Ihe present division into two departments, and sanctioned by her majesty by royal de- 
cree of October 21, 1853. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 49 

dividing the . territory and adjacent islands into five provinces, viz., 
Havana, Trinidad, San Juan de los Remedios, Nuevitas, and Cuba, whose 
capitals are the towns of those names. The provinces are subdivided into 
districts, and these into adjutancies, subdelegations, and " alcaldias de 
mar." The province of Havana is under the immediate authority of the 
commandant-general of the station, and the other provinces are in 
charge of commandants or graduated officers. The districts are com- 
manded by adjutants, and the subdelegations by alcaldes de mar. The 
province of Havana comprises all the territory, islands, and shoals lying 
west of a line that may be supposed to run along the following points : 
€anal del Pargo, Rio de la Palma, Artemisal, Punta Don Cristobal, and 
€anal del Rosario, and is divided into the districts of Havana, Regla, 
Matanzas, Cardenas, Batabano, Pinar del Rio, Mariel, Bahia-Honcla, 
and Mantua. The limits of the province of San Juan de los Remedios 
are the following : Canal del Pargo, Rio de la Palma, Artemisal, the 
central highway toward the east, passing by Alvarez, Esperanza, Villa 
Clara, Santo Espiritu, Jicotea, and Ciego de Avila, whence it proceeds 
in a straight line to Punta Curiana, and thence between the islands 
called Cayo Coco and Cayo Romano (the latter falling to Nuevitas). It 
is divided into the two districts of Remedios and Sagua la Grande. The 
limit of the province of Trinidad is a line supposed to run along the fol- 
lowing places : Canal del Rosario, Punta Don Cristobal, Artemisal, the 
central highway from that point to Puerto Principe, thence in a right 
line as far as Estero del Junco, and thence beyond Canal de Cuatro Reales. 
It is divided into the districts of Trinidad, Santa Cruz, and Jagua. The 
boundary line of Nuevitas passes by the following points : the channel be- 
tween the islands of Cayo Coco and Cayo Romano, Punta Curiana, San 
■Geronimo, the high road running by Puerto Principe, Las Tunas, Ba- 
yamo, and Jiguani ; thence it proceeds to Santo Cristo, Cayo del Rey 
and Mayari, and issues through the mouth of the Port of Nipe. It is di- 
vided into the districts of Nuevitas, Guanaja, and Jibara. The province 
■of Cuba comprises the remainder of the island, and is divided into the 
districts of Cuba, Baracoa, and Manzanillo. The island of Porto Rico 
is another province of the naval station of Havana. 

€©veraiiieflti — The Island of Cuba is subject, in all branches of the 
administration, to the authority of a president of the royal court of 
judicature {real audiencia) , who is also the superior civil governor, 
captain-general, superior commandant of marine, superintendent of the 
treasury, vice-royal patron, and vice-royal protector of public instruc- 
tion ; although the ecclesiastical, naval, judicial, and financial depart- 
ments also have especial chiefs of high rank, as has been stated under 
the head of Territorial Division. 

3 



50 Cuba : 

Laws. — By the additional article of the constitution of the Spanish 
monarchy of 1887, the Island of Cuba is subject to especial laws, pend- 
ing the formation of which' are in force the laws, royal decrees, regula- 
tions, and orders dictated by the supreme government of the nation, 
and communicated to the island. Next in order, as regards political and 
judicial affairs, are the especial resolutions circumscribed to determinate 
localities, such as the municipal regulations or statutes of the corpora- 
tions, the resolutions of the courts of judicature, and the government 
edicts (Bandos de Buen-Gobierno), especial regulations, etc. Then come 
the " Ordenanzas de Intendentes de Nueva Espana" (published in 1786, 
and reformed in 1803) , commanded to be complied with in this island as far 
as adaptable ; several articles of which are in force, particularly those 
relating to the treasury department. Then succeed in authority the 
body of laws entitled, " Recopilacion de las Leyes de Indias" published 
in 1681. In the military department, the ordinances of the army of the 
Peninsula succeed the most recent sovereign dispositions. As regards 
commerce, the " Codigo de Comercio" is followed, with laws, modifica- 
tions, and the ley de enjuiciamiento for mercantile transactions. For 
the ecclesiastical department, is the " Sinodo diocesano de Cuba," ap- 
proved in 1682, and which has recently been republished with additions. 
In the naval department are in force the " Ordenanzas Generales de 
Marina" for 1748 and 1793, and the " Ordenanza de Matriculas." After 
the last sovereign dispositions, and those of the before-mentioned legal 
bodies, the codes promulgated for the Peninsula exercise force of law 
in the following order : Novisima Recopilacion, Nueva Recopilacion, 
Leyes de Toro, Ordenamiento de Alcala, Fuero Juzgo, and lastly, the 
celebrated Leyes de las Partidas. 

Ethnography. — The races of inhabitants peopling the island are the 
Caucasian, the African, the copper-colored or American, and the Mon- 
golian. The Caucasian proceeds from Europe, and although repre- 
sented by a less number than the African, it surpasses, as everywhere, 
all the others in intelligence and civilization. As the island has be- 
longed to Spain from its discovery (for its possession by the English 
was almost limited to the district of Havana, and lasted but one year), 
the races inhabiting the Peninsula naturally have, been, and continue 
to be, those constituting the white population of the colony; besides, the 
system of commercial monopoly that existed until the end of the last 
century has contributed not a little to prevent the settlement of other 
branches of the Caucasian race of Europe. History assures, that at the 
commencement of the Conquest none but Castilians were allowed to 
come to America ; but at present, the industrious Catalans or Catalo- 
nians, and the hard-working Isleiios (islanders of the Canaries), are 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 51 

found to preponderate throughout the island. As regards foreigners, 
the rural districts of the jurisdiction of Cuba, of Saltadero, Giiines, 
San Antonio, and the south of Mariel were, at the beginning of the 
present century, peopled by industrious and intelligent Frenchmen, refu- 
gees from the revolution in St. Domingo, who gave a powerful impetus 
to agriculture, especially the cultivation of coffee. The Anglo- Saxon race 
has somewhat extended itself in Matanzas, Cardenas, and Nuevitas and 
Baga, which they colonized. Next in order are the Germans, who 
apply themselves entirely to commerce by wholesale, and next, the 
Italians, in small number. The African or Ethiopian race was intro- 
duced in 1524, shortly after the conquest of the island, to serve as slaves. 
Notwithstanding the humane treatment that it has received, its propa- 
gation has not corresponded to the analogy of the climate with that of 
its own country ; so that, in spite of considerable and constant importa- 
tions until a few years back, the present number of the race does not 
appear to amount to much more than half a million. Those coming from 
Africa are termed bozales until they acquire the language of the island, 
and ladinos when they speak it ; and such of them as are born in the 
island are called criollos* The latter are distinguished, also, as being 
born in the towns, or as being born in the country, these latter being 
termed criollos de campo, and are more rustic in language and man- 
ners than the former, who are remarkable for aptness, and particularly 
for native musical composition. The American race, which exists in 
very small number, is the aboriginal, as, although subsequently to the 
discovery, several Indians were introduced from the continent, chiefly 
into the western department, and, on the separation of Florida from the 
Spanish dominion, some of them would occasionally come over to 

* The African nations from which the negroes are derived are as follows : the Man- 
dingas, who occupy the greater part of Senegambia, and are divided in Man- 
dingas proper, Yolofs, and Fulahs ; the latter are the most intelligent, perhaps from 
partaking of Arabian civilization, as the majority that have come to the island even 
know how to write, and possess industrial qualifications that render them more desir- 
able ; the Gangds, inhabiting the coast of Cape Palmas, south of the Kong chain of 
mountains, and distinguished as Zongovds, Manis, Fires, Kids, Fees, Golds, etc., are 
well conditioned ; the Minos, from the Gold Coast ; the Lucwnzs, brought from 
the Slave Coast, but apparently proceeding from Soudan, constitute the majority, and 
are distinguished by the stripes stained on their cheeks: they are strong for labor, but 
indomitable and inclined to suicide by hanging ; the Carabalis, of the kingdom of 
Benin or the Carabali coast, are distinguished as Suamos, Bibis, Bricanos, Brases, 
etc and have their teeth lanceolated, and are enemies of the Congos ; the Congos, 
as their name indicates, proceed from the equinoctial or Congo line, and are distin- 
guished as Royal Congos (those of Angola), Motembos, Musnndis, Mondongos, 
Mombasas, Mayombes, etc. The Macuas are principally from the interior of the 
Mozambique 



52 Cuba : 

Havana, we are not aware that they left any descendants. About the 
settlements of Carey, Santa Rosa, Tiguabos, Ti-Arriba, and Jiguani, and 
in the environs of Holguin, are still found a few remnants of the prim- 
itive inhabitants, but the majority are crossed with mulattos. The 
privileges accorded to them by the Leyes de Indias were continued until 
1845. Since 1847, Yucatecos or Yucatan Indians have begun to be in- 
troduced. The Mongolian race was rarely represented by occasion- 
ally a member of the crews of vessels visiting the island, until 1847, 
when Coolies began to be introduced from Em6i, in China. Up to the 
present time about 6,000 have arrived, and only 20 or 30 returned. 
They are employed by contract, generally for agricultural labor, or 
as common servants. They are intelligent and industrious, and soon 
learn the language. Of mixed races, the mulattos, resulting from 
the union of the whites and negroes, are the most numerous. The 
mulatto and the negro produce the Chino, which name confounds 
them with the Coolies or Asiatics, who are also so-called, although, in 
judicial proceedings, the term Asiatics is adopted. The mulattos gene- 
rally employ themselves as carpenters, tailors, musicians, coach-builders, 
and painters, in which branches they usually excel. 

Idiom. — The language used throughout the island is the Castilian, 
which is spoken more correctly than in those provinces of Spain where 
dialects are used, as in Galicia, Biscay, Catalonia, and Valencia. How- 
ever, although in making the comparison we set aside certain provincial- 
isms,* we are far from pretending that our language is as pure and 
genuine as that used by persons of refinement in Castile or Leon. Be- 
sides certain corrupt phrases, the Cuban, generally, does not correctly 
pronounce the syllables za, ze, zi, zo, zu, ce, ci, but pronounces them as 
if written sa, se, si,- so, su, and se and si (exactly the reverse of the 
Andalusian), and he frequently confounds the I with the r, saying, for 
instance, cualter, sordado, instead of cuarlel and soldado ; but this de- 
fect (also peculiar to Andalusia) is rare among persons of any education. 
It is somewhat strange that, although constantly hearing the soft 
dialect of the African, only two or three of his words have been adopted 
by the Cuban, and that no one should have perfectly acquired any of 
those dialects.f 

Character, Habits, and Customs.— The Cubans are well formed, and 

* We say that we set them aside, because the true provincialisms (not corruptions) 
really increase the rich, sonorous, and majestic language of Castile. With what Cas- 
tilian terms could we possibly designate so many indigenous productions bearing only 
indigenous names, and unknown in Europe ? See on this point the Dictionary of 
Cuban Phrases by Sr. Pichardo. 

t In 1838 we had prepared for publication a Manual (useful in other times) of the 
Lucuml, Ganga, and Congo tongues, to facilitate communication with the new negroes. 



Physical, Political, a.nd industrial. 53 

possess a clear understanding ; they are fond of poetry, dancing, and 
music. They are accused of liking to make a false show, of disincli- 
nation for mechanical pursuits, and a strong tendency to litigation. 
Those bred in the rural districts, constituting the peasantry, and distin- 
guished by the name of guajiros, are of strong constitution, and 
although quick-witted, are indolent and given to routine. In the juris- 
diction of the government of Cuba they wear jackets in the European 
style, but throughout the rest of the island their costume consists merely 
of shirt and browsers, with a cutlass or machete belted round the waist, 
a handkerchief loosely circling the throat, and a hat of guano de yarei 
leaf or jipijapa straw, and none of them fail to possess a horse on which 
to ride. The Cuban women are handsome, delicate, intelligent, and 
well-mannered, and exceedingly fond of music and dancings The im- 
moral and pernicious game of monte, and the sanguinary exhibitions of 
cock-fights and duck-races in the country towns, are, unfortunately, a 
favorite passion of Cubans in general, although the first is persecuted 
by government with a laudable zeal, and the latter allowed only on Sun- 
days, and in certain towns.* It is the custom to spend the summer out 
of the large cities, resorting chiefly to country seats or towns affording 
salutary baths. On such occasions the Cuban manifests his proverbial 
disinterestedness and hospitality, inviting, welcoming, and regaling all 
his friends and acquaintances. It is also the custom for planters to 
reside on their estates during crop-time. The active trade and the heat 
of the climate excuse the' common propensity to use carriages, and the 
quitrin is one of the most peculiar, as well as most necessary, append- 
ages to a household of any in the island. 

Public Instruction. — Intellectual Culture. — Education has made 
great progress in the island, especially, since the establishment of the 
Royal Economical Societies of Havana and Cuba, and above all since 

* It has been toasted that the town of Consolacion del Sur possesses two cock-pits ! 
In consequence of the new Plaza de Toros, or square for bull-baiting, at Havana, a 
taste is becoming diffused for another spectacle, no less bloody than that of cock- 
fighting, and. the worst of it is that it is termed national, when all the enlightened men 
of the nation (who should, certainly constitute the votes) condemn it in their writings. 
" The Spanish people (says the wise Sr. Monlan, in his Treatise on Hygienics), with 
all their temperance, have certain instincts which they should curb. "We believe that 
government, far from fostering the taste for bull-fights for instance, thould restrain it, 
and prepare for the advent of the time in which an exhibition so justly reprobated by 
all who possess any ideas of administration and government shall disappear. Instead 
of arenas for bull-fights, there should be gymnasiums for the youth of the country; 
and those communities that erect new circuses to amuse themselves by awakening 
and mocking the ire of a useful, animal would employ their money better in establish- 
ing scientific professorships or agricultural colonies, or in improving the condition of 
the public prisons." 



54 Cuba : 

1842, when an extraordinary change was made in the public schools, 
subjecting them to a board of inspection, which, as regards primary in- 
struction, has been subdivided into provincial, local, and auxiliary com- 
mittees. The capital contains a well-organized royal university, with 
a rector and thirty professors.* There is a seminary college in Havana, 
and another in Cuba, which are subject to especial regulations, and 
where the branches of ecclesiastical studies, philology, and philosophy 
are taught. 

At present are published in Havana four daily papers, a monthly, with 
the title of Anales, etc., two illustrated semi-monthlies (the Revista de 
la Habana and El Almendares) , and there occasionally circulate be- 
sides a few literary and scientific publications, chiefly edited by young 
Cubans, who, with laudable perseverance, have applied themselves to the 
cultivation of letters. In Matanzas the Aurora is published daily, and 
from time to time some other publication makes its appearance. Car- 
denas, Sagua, Cienfuegos, and Remedios issue an Hoja Economica (eco- 
nomical sheet). In Trinidad is published the Correo, in Santo Espiritu 
the Fenix, in Puerto Principe the Fanal, and in Cuba the Orden, the 
Redactor, and Memorias de la Real Sociedad Economica. Pinar del 
Rio, Bayamo, and Holguin are the only large towns in the island want- 
ing in an element which affords so good a proof of the culture of a com- 
munity. 

The branches of literature most affected by the natives are poetry, 
history, and novels ; little having been published in regard to the exact 
sciences, and that only of the most elementary nature for ithe use of 
schools. In poetry, Zequeira Rubalcaba, Heredia, Blanchie, and Mila- 
nesf have shone conspicuously ; the majority in descriptive and lyrical 
compositions, and some as dramatical writers. Among these Milanes has 
excelled in his tragedy of El Conde Alar cos. The Countess of Merlin 
has distinguished herself as a novelist. As historians, Arrate, Urrutia, 
Valdes, and Heredia ; as a grammarian, Vidal ; and the learned Pres- 
byter Varela in philosophy; in jurisprudence, Ayala, Hechavarria, 
Ponce de Leon, Escovedo, Armas, and Govantes ; and in medicine, the 
celebrated Romay. Among the most prominent Cubans have been the 
following : Don Luis M. cle Penalver y Cardenas, archbishop of Guate- 
mala ; Bishops Pa]ma and Hechavarria ; Don Juan Bernardo de O'Gavan, 
dean and governor of the bishopric of Havana ; Don Ramon Jose Mendi- 

* There is now in course of erection at Havana, on account of the State, a fine 
edifice for educational purposes, under the title of Keal Colegio de la Habana, and it is 
intended to establish a similar one at Puerto Principe. 

t "We include this poet in the number of departed authors, as the unfortunate state 
of his health renders him lost to the world of letters. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 55 

ola, magistrate of Puerto Principe and Porto Rico ; Don Jose Domingo 
Benitez, minister of the Supreme Tribunal of War an?T Marine; Don 
Rafael Rodriguez, sole assessor of Havana, and honorary counsellor of 
state ; Don Fernando O'Reilly, honorary judge and chief justice of Ha- 
vana ; Don Antonio Maria de la Torre y Cardenas, political secretary 
from 1821 to 1841 ; the memorable statesmen and counsellors of state, 
Don Francisco Arango y Parreno, superintendent, and Count Villanueva, 
superintendent of Havana, senator, and grandee of Spain of the first 
class ; General Don Gonzalo O'Farrill and Don Jorge Maria de la Torre 
ministers of War ; Generals Don Francisco Diaz Pimienta, Count Re- 
villagigedo, viceroy of Mexico, Count Mopox y de Jaruco, Don Carlos de 
Urrutia, Don Jose de Zayas, Don Vicente Genaro de Quesada, Don Jose 
Moscoso, Don Gabriel, and Don Domingo Aristizabal, Don Juan Montalvo, 
and the Marquis de San Felipe y Santiago ; and Colonel Don Jose Maria 
de la Torre, who was governor of Florida. 

Manufactures and Arts. — The island of Cuba does not at present rank 
as a manufacturing nor artistic country. However, the production of 
sugar (which is a manufacture) is more advanced than in many other 
cane-growing countries, as is proved by the preference and higher price 
which it obtains in foreign markets. Besides sugar and rum, in the 
rural districts are manufactured starch, casabe or yuca-bread, and pot- 
tery, also hats of the yarei palm,* and, at the western side of the island, 
mats, baskets, seroons, cocoa-nut oil, etc. A great number of persons are 
employed in manufacturing cigars, and on the coasts many are engaged 
in ship-building.f At Havana are good founderies, where entire steam- 
engines are cast. At Guanabacoa are manufactories of cutlass blades 
of excellent quality. There are also in the island manufactories of per- 
fumery, pickles, nails, friction matches, felt hats, stearine candles, soap, 
superior composition metal, carriages (rivaling the best foreign), refined 
sugar, and others. In 1851 a large paper factory of all kinds was de- 
stroyed by fire at Puentes-Grandes. 

Agriculture. — " The agricultural industry of the island may be consid- 
ered as divided into two great systems, which in Europe are advan- 
tageously combined, but that here have continued separate since the 



* This manufacture has greatly decreased since 1839, when hats of jipijapa straw- 
began to come into general use. 

t It is known that from 1724 to 179T there were built at Havana 6 three-deck ships, 
21 of 70 to 80 guns, 26 of 50 to 60 guns, 14 frigates of 30 to 40, and 5S smaller vessels; 
total 125, two of which mounting 120 guns. Subsequently there have been built sev- 
eral other vessels of war, and many merchantmen, including several steamers. The 
steamer " Sagua la Grande" was built at the place of that name, and two steamers at 
Havana, one for war. 



56 Cuba : 

earliest period of the settlement, viz., the breeding of cattle and the cul- 
tivation of the soil. The first is quite independent of tillage, and conse- 
quently employs -no utensils nor manures, nor anything tending to veg- 
etable production. The second represents agriculture in its infancy, as 
much by the imperfection of the instruments used, as by the paucity of 
principles that constitute the husbandman's art ; principles that, with 
few exceptions, may be reduced to the simple ones of sowing and reap- 
ing, leaving all the rest to the fruitfulness of the soil and the excellence 
of the climate." (Sagra, History of Cuba.*) Of the 916,571 caballerias 
of landf constituting the surface of the island and its adjacent territory, 
48,572 are cultivated, 20,341 used for artificial pasturage, 149,248 for 
natural pasturage, 377,003 are mountainous or uncleared, and 321,407 
of barren lands, mines, etc. There are consequently 68,913 caballerias 
under cultivation and 526,251 uncultivated, besides the 321,407 of bar- 
ren lands, mines, etc. The statistics for 1827 state that in said year 
there were 91,819 caballerias registered for cultivation, and, according 
to Sr. Sagra (History of Cuba), the island numbered 66,441 caballerias 
under cultivation in 1840. Now no one that is aware of the extraordi- 
nary impulse received by the agricultural industry of the island since 
1840, can doubt that the extent of land then under cultivation has at 
least been doubled, and, consequently, either the data from which the 
statistics of 1827 were formed, and on which Sr. Sagra's statement was 
founded, were greatly exaggerated, or, as is more likely, those consti- 
tuting the basis of the last statistical returns are exceedingly under- 
rated. It will, however, be observed that the said statistics of 1827 only 
give the number of registered « caballerias," including natural pastur- 
ages, woods, etc., which we have stated separately. The chief agricul- 
tural products are the sugar-cane, tobacco, coffee, cotton, fruit, and 
vegetables. Bice, sago, maize, and even cocoa, are cultivated on a small 
scale, not enough to supply the consumption of the interior. Wheat,:}: 
* Since the voyage made by the author to the United States in 1S48 and 1849 com- 
missioned by the Junta de Fomento for scientific and industrial information, a change 
is taking place both in the instruments used and in the system of various branches of 
cultivation, and. also by the adoption of new methods, as'is proved by the immense 
subsequent importation of instruments, animals, and seed. 

t The maritime league of one-twentieth of an equatorial degree is equal to 5565 3<>9 
metres according to Humboldt, which is equivalent to 6562.S8 Cuban varus. There- 
fore the maritime square 'league is equal to 43.071.40 square Cuban varas, or 230 7 
caballerias of land: and 8,973 square maritime leagues equal to 916,571 caballerias 
or 12,301.527 hectares. ' 

% We can not conceive what has given rise to the idea that the cultivation of wheat 
was prohibited in the island, when, on the contrary, government has made several at- 
tempts to foster it. The true cause of its neglect is its small yield as compared with 
that of any other article. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 57 

indigo, and even the mulberry and nopal trees (for breeding the silk- 
worm and the cochineal insect) have been almost entirely abandoned. 
Sugar, rum, wax, and other petty manufactures, and the breeding of 
cattle, complete the list of agricultural labors in the island. The tene- 
ments where the preceding are cultivated and manufactured are classi- 
fied in the island as follows : Hato, a circular space of land, with a ra- 
dius of two Cuban leagues.* Corral, also a circular space, of one C'tban 
league radius. Potrero, an inclosed estate of less extent than either of 
the two preceding, but with more abundant pasturage. These three 
classes are devoted to raising live-stock of all kinds, but the first espe- 
cially to horned cattle; the second to sheep, goats, and swine, and the 
third to grazing horned cattle and breeding horses. The number of 
cattle that the hatos and corrales may maintain depends on the nature 
of the land, since if it contains more meadow than thickets or woods it will 
be susceptible of raising more horned cattle, and vice versa. In the potre- 
ros, if well managed, may be raised and pastured on the average 25 oxen 
and horses for each caballeria of land. Ingenio is an agricultural and 
manufacturing estate, generally of greater extent than the cafetal, and 
where the sugar-cane is cultivated, and sugar and rum manufactured. 
It is the largest establishment in the island. The lands of Cuba are 
recognized as superior to those of the other Antilles for the cultivation 
of the sugar-cane. The produce of the cane is exceedingly irregular, 
depending as it does on the quality of the soil, the weather, the class and 
age of the plant, and especially on the apparatus used in the manufac- 
ture. In regard to the last, the island is in the highest stage of ad- 
vancement, as is proved by its large crops and the quality of the com- 
modity, which commands a decided preference in all the markets of the 
world. f A caballeria of land under favorable circumstances produces 

* There are some hatos of three and of five leagues radius, like that of Hanabana, 
but the majority, the same as the corrales, are incomplete. As these two classes of 
estates are of great extent, and as from their apportionment most of the others have 
originated, the knowledge of them, is important and necessary, especially to avoid 
confounding ihe administrative division, as the comprehensive extent of said cattle 
estates is vulgarly termed partido or district. Thus we frequently hear of portidos de 
la Bija, de las Virtudas, and even province of Barajagua. though such partidos or 
province have no existence. 

t There are in the island many ingenios that produce 8,000 to 9,000 boxes of sugar. 
ZaPonina, estate of Sr. Diago, produces 12,000, and the Alava of Sr. Zulueta 15,000, 
and there are two in process of establishment that will produce 16,000 and 30,000 re- 
spectively. (See the Editorial of the Diario de la Marina of 1st January, 1852.) A 
great manufactory of beet-root sugar in Belgium, with all the recent improvements, 
requires for its machinery and buildings (that is to say for its boiling-house) an outlay 
of $40,000, exclusive of the current expenses of manufacture, and will produce at the 
utmost three tons of sugar a day, equal to about 15 boxes. This becomes insignificant 
when compared with an ingenio in the island whose daily production is 125 boxes. 



58 , Cuba : 

3,000 to 4,000 arrobas by the ordinary apparatus, and even double that 
quantity if the Derosne apparatus is used. Cafetal is a coffee planta- 
tion. Coffee, introduced into the island in 1748, did not begin to figure 
among the exports until toward the end of the last century ; and became 
at the commencement of the present century the second staple in im- 
portance ; but, unable to withstand the competition of Brazil, Java, and 
Ceylon,* it has, since 1832, retrograded to such a degree that it is ap- 
prehended that in the course of a very few years it will only be culti- 
vated for domestic consumption. A caballeria of land produces on the 
average 800 arrobas, and in the eastern part of the island it is estimated 
at 1,600 arrobas. There are many plantations where a pound of coffee 
per plant is harvested. That grown in the jurisdiction of Cuba and 
Saltadero, equal to the Santo Domingo coffee, is still much esteemed in 
foreign markets. Vega is a plantation devoted to tobacco, and gener- 
ally consists of a small space of land, in most instances situated on the 
banks of the rivers. Respecting the product of tobacco, a proper esti- 
mate can scarcely be formed, for on appropriate soil and with favorable 
weather the half million of plants that a caballeria of land may contain 
yield 120 to 150 car gas, at the rate of eight arrobas the carga, while the 
same space of land under unfavorable weather will only produce 30 or 
40 car gas. " It is well known that the lands west of the meridian of Ha- 
vana, and distinguished as Vuelta-Abajo, produce the finest tobacco in 
the world, in richness of color and fragrance, softness of leaf, and read- 
iness of combustion. But it must not be imagined that all the western 
territory of the island enjoys the same privilege. The best lands for this 
plant (which are paid at the rate of $1,000 and a bonus of $100 or six 
doubloons) are comprised in an irregular oblong square, whose bound- 
aries are, on the east the Rio Hondo or Consolacion del Sur River, on the 
west the Cuyaguateje or Mantua River, on the north the Sierra de los 
Organos, and on the south the belt of barrigona palms, that runs in a 
parallel direction to the coast. This oblong square is 28 leagues long 
and 7 wide. Out of it, toward the meridian of Havana, the tobacco is 
of fine color but less fragrant, and the first of these qualities gives it 
the preference with foreigners. From Consolacion to San Cristobal the 
tobacco is of high quality, as the veguero terms it, but harsh and strong 
and from San Cristobal to Guana jay (excepting the district of Las Vir- 
tudas) the tobacco is inferior, and continues so eastward as far as Hol- 

*^The coffee of the island is incomparably superior to that of the countries named, 
and the decline in the production may "be attributed to the differential duties imposed 
in the United States on imports from Cuba, in retaliation for our high impost on their 
flour taken in their vessels to tlie Brazilian markets.— Vide Torrente and Arboleya. 
[Coffee is at present admitted free of duty ivilo the United States.— Editor,] 



Physical, Political, and % Industrial. 59 

guin and Cuba, where it again becomes of good quality. The fertile 
valley of Giiines produces bad smoking tobacco, but excellent for snuff, 
which used to be manufactured in large quantity for account of the 
factory. Among the same lands of the Vuelta-Abajo are some of supe- 
rior kind, such as the Vegas de la Lena and Del Corojo, on the margin 
of the Kiyer San Sebastian, where the best tobacco in the island is gath- 
ered. There are also excellent vegas at Mayari, on the eastern side. 
The Tobacco Board having determined in 1792 on the settlement and 
cultivation of that district, proposed that the 18 leagues of land com- 
posing it should be purchased by the treasury, and repaid by the colo- 
nists with five per cent, of the product of the tobacco, proving the prefer- 
ence given it. There are several other regions adapted to the cultivation 
of this leaf. The district of Guantanamo alone produced about six years 
ago 1,200 arrobas."* (Sagra's History.) Algodonal is a cotton planta- 
tion. Only in the eastern department are there estates exclusively devoted 
to this product, yielding 6,000 pounds of excellent quality per caballeria. 
In the avenues between the plants are cultivated maize and pulse.f 
Cacagual or cacaotal is a cocoa plantation. Only in San Juan de los 
Eemedios are there properties of this description, as in other parts of the 
island cocoa, like cotton, constitutes but a part of the cultivation. 5,000 
cocoa-trees may be raised on a caballeria, and as the product of each tree 
is estimated at five pounds, the average yield maybe set down as 250 quint- 
als. It is of good quality, and would be better if the seed, instead of hav- 
ing been introduced from Maracaibo, were that of Chuav, Choroni, or Ocu- 
mare (near Porto Cabello), or of Soconuco, in Guatemala, which produce 

* In the five years of 1847 to 1S52 the jurisdiction of Pinar del Eio and the district 
of Consolacion del Norte have produced an average of 150,000 tercios of tobacco, which, 
at the rate of 110 pounds each, amount to 16,500,000 pounds. In 1848 the average price 
was $25 a tercio, and in 1S52, $27. The vegas of this district comprise 2,000 caballe- 
rias of land. {Memoria Sobre el Cultivo del Tabaco, por un Amigo del Pais, 1852.) 
See also another work by Sr. Salazar, and El Tabaco Habano, by Sr. Rodriguez-Ferrer ; 
also some interesting notes on the same subject by the author's great-grandfather, Col. 
Don Antonio Maria de la Torre, his grandfather, Col. Don Jose Maria, and his father, 
government inspector of tobacco, some of which have been published in the Memorias 
de la Heal Sociedad Economica. 

t One of the chief objects of the author's mission to the United States in 1848 was to 
collect the best cotton seed, and learn the best method for its cultivation, being per- 
suaded that it would be the best substitute for the retrograding production of coffee. 
He obtained five excellent kinds, including the prolific promenate, that had just been 
introduced there from Mexico, and which afforded a most satisfactory result in the trial 
made by Sr. Bonany. Having taken to Spain samples and seed of this cotton produced 
in the island, it drew the attention of several enlightened agriculturists; and such was 
the astonishment of the learned Sr. Olivan at so fine a product, that he presented the 
author to the Ministro de Fomento, who immediately sent some of the seed to An- 
dalusia, where endeavors are now being made to .acclimate the plant, 

1 



SO , Cuba : 

the best in the world.* Estancia is a small farm in the neighborhood 
of towns, where vegetables, fruit, etc., are raised; when not in the imme- 
diate vicinity of towns, it is termed sitio de labor ; and, when exclusively 
belonging to a larger plantation, sitio de viandas. On the estancias 
poultry and cows are raised; and the sitios de labor produce cheese, 
casabe, and starch. Tejar is a place where pottery and bricks are manu- 
factured. Colmenar is the place where bee-hives are kept. There are 
few tenements exclusively devoted to this branch, Puerto Principe being 
the most productive district. The wax of the island is of superior quality 
and is exported to the markets within the Mexican gulf, and even to the 
Spanish peninsula.f Quinta is a country seat or summer resort, gener- 
ally situated near the large towns. Maize, rice, sago, pulse, yuca, the 
bomato or sweet potato, plantains, and fruit are not grown on deter- 
minate possessions, but on nearly all, and especially on those termed 
szttos de labor Maize is very variable in its crops, but the average 
T^n/ Caballeria of land > at the ^te of 140 to 200 fold, is estimated 
at 200 fanegas or quintals of grain. Each mazorca or ear usually con- 

^r^r^f 50 ?^ 118 - ^Pr^stwocropsayear. Rice yields 
rnl.° X nnn' ^ ^^ Pr ° dUCt ° f a ™ b ^ia may be esti- 
mated at 2,000 arrobas, or 3,000 on new and fruitful lands.* Mustard 



The author intends publishing the notes written by his father in 1831 for the Min- 
ister Count Ofalia on the cultivation of cocoa, and recommends the work on the same 
subject by Don Pedro Santacilla, Puerto Principe, 1849, in which is the follow ng Z 
sage: > Humboldt and Codazzi attribute to the extreme fertility of the soil ZtpoZ 
2 e * fe Which ? auses co <™ ^0 produce in^ years at the place cal ed Z 
Negro. Well, now, at the cafetal La Union, situate eight leagues from this citv there 

wrr eS r hat t haVepr0dUCedia ^^- T ^«P-codous g roirpr^snow 
favorable the chmate ,s m general to this production, and, with good seed we could 
doubtless have as good cocoa plantations as the best in South America » 

t The breeding of bees and the production of wax are exceedingly interesting 
branches of rural industry, if we consider the great advantages afforded by toe^ate 
the cons ant vegetation of the island, the trifling outlay that is necessary, the abundance 
of stable timber the use of which is permitted to the bee-keepers, and the certa „ 
advantage of preference commanded by the superior quality of the product throughout 
the markets of the Mexican gulf. (For the raising of bees, etc., in the island see the 
notes of Don Tomas Eomay, 1796, and Don Pedro Boloix in 1815 ) 

* As will be seen in the Appendix, the author has introduced into the island various 

IT t Tt 7 5Ze ' riCe ' and ° tber Seed ' eSpeda]ly S rasses for P^-age. I ^a 
shame that a though nee yields surprisingly, not only has its cultivation not been ex! 
tendea but there is not an establishment with proper machinery for cleanTn^t 
part.cularly in the beautiful and fruitful valley of Guinea, whose rivi mi^ht be so & ad' 
vantageously availed of for water-power. Those persons who, like ourselves, have 
been desiring the establishment of a model hacienda, will soon have the pleasure of 
noticing a step toward it in .he erection of a building in the present botanic!^ 1/ 
which m to contain a meteorological observatory, a professorship of botany etc 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 01 

wnich is produced o; superior quality fc and of so much demand in England 
and the United States, is scarcely cultivated. The gutta-percha and 
caoutchouc or India-rubber trees have hardly been acclimated yet. 
Sago, little cultivated, though worthy of attention, has produced at San 
Antonio at the rate of 160 quintals of flour per caballeria, and in other 
places 6,400 arrobas of the root per caballeria. As regards pasturages, 
it is only in the central part of the island that meadows are formed of 
anv; considerable extent. Millet is abundantly raised, principally to 
feed horned cattle. 

Navigation* — In 1851 there entered the several ports of the island 
883 Spanish vessels, measuring 270,176 tons, and 2,982 foreign, measur- 
ing 727,814 tons. Total, 3,865 vessels, and 998,000 tons. The number 
of vessels cleared was 3,735, of which 793 were Spanish.* 

COMMERCE. — The exterior trade of the island is in so prosperous a 
state that it equals in importance that of the metropolis. t In 1851 it 
amounted to $63,665,1024 The importation amounted to $32,315,745, || 
of which (about $19,899,000) § was in Spanish bottoms. The exportation 
amounted to $31, 349,357, IT whereof $6,204,653 under Spanish flag. The 

* Throughout the entire Spanish peninsula, including its adjacent islands (Baleares 
and Canaries), the number of vessels entered in 1850 was 6,008, measuring 725,043 
tons (3,164 Spanish, with 339,574 tons), and cleared 5,141, with 6S8,317 tons (2,490 
Spanish, with 277,839 tons). As regards amount of tonnage, it will hence be seen 
that the shipping trade of the Island of Cuba exceeds that of Spain. It is very gen- 
erally supposed that the distance between Havana and Cadiz is 1,600 maritime 
leagues, but we have carefully calculated it with inte'ligent naval officers, and find the 
directest route is no more than 1,3S2 maritime leagues. The quickest passages made 
from and to Havana have been the following : in 1829, from Havana to Cadiz, Amer- 
ican ships Fabius and Teaplant, 21 days ; 1833 (October), Spanish brig-of-war Jason, 
from Cadiz to Havana, 22 days ; 1841 (September), French frigate Havre et Guade- 
loupe, to Havre, 21 days; 1843, Spanish brig Gallo de Oro, to Cadiz, 23 days; 1848. 
American steamer Crescent City, to New York, in 68 hours ; 1853, Spanish steamer 
Fernando el Cat61ico, to Vigo, in 17 days 7 hours. 

t "But for the happy privileges of the port of Havana, Jamaica would have been 
the centre of all the mercantile operations with the neighboring continent." — Hum- 
boldt, Political Essay on the Island of Cuba. % See Appendix No. 1. 

|| The average of 10 years (1840 to 1850) is $26,195,S50. The chief imports in 1851 
were as follows : liquids (such as wines, oils. etc.). $2,825,045 : provisions. $1,985,423 ; 
spices, $86,442; fruits, $287,586; grain, $4,808.S10; fish, $619,205; other provisions, 
$2,011,401 ; cottons, $3.021,009 ; linens, $3,528,084 ; woolens, $431,702 ; silks, $529,S12 ; 
skins and furs, f'5S9,457; wood and timber, $2,211,229; metals, $2,791,617; animals, 
$37,974; railway machinery and material, $634,429; ditto for sugar plantations, 
$506,862 ; other articles, $5,410,335. 

§ In the original the sum is stated at $19,899, but it is evident that the final figures 
have been left out. In 1S50 it was $18,445,072 in a total of $28,9S3,227. 

1 The average of 1841 to 1850 is $24,6S5,844. The chief exports in 1S51 were as 
follows : principal productions of the island, $30,340.423 ; other, $87,962 ; wood and 



62 Cuba : 

order in which the countries trading with Cuba stand, according to the 
absolute value of their transactions, is as follows : United States, En- 
gland, Spain, Germany, Spanish- American States, France, Russia, Bel- 
gium, Denmark, Holland, etc. ; but in regard to importation only, the 
first in order is Spain, then the United States, England, Spanish-Ameri- 
can States, Germany, France, Denmark, Belgium, Holland, Brazil, etc. ; 
and in regard to exportation, the United States, England, Spain, Ger- 
many, Russia, France, Spanish- American States, Holland, Belgium, etc. 
The customs dues are in accordance with the tariff published in 1847, 
with the modifications made in 1852. 

Revenue. — The revenues of the Island of Cuba are divided into mari- 
time and inland, the first comprising customs and light-house dues, 
ship-visits, etc., and the second, various taxes and different tolls of an 
origin entirely distinct from that of imposts or contributions. Both 
sources are subdivided into proper and alien branches, that is to say, the 
portion of taxes immediately distributed by the Royal Treasury, and 
that which it collects for other accoimt, applicable to special services, 
such as the Junta de Fomento (Board of Improvement), Beneficencia 
(Alms-house), etc. During the reign of the ruinous system of monopoly, H 
the revenues of Cuba were so small, that, to cover her internal obliga- 
tions ai;d the many external ones imposed on her, it was found neces- 
sary to obtain assistance, which, under the name of situado* was 
annually afforded by the treasury of Mexico. And who could have 
imagined that — thanks to free-trade — in a period of less than fifty years, 
the possession that received such aid would have a revenue one third 
greater than that of the opulent viceroyship which afforded it ?f The 
total revenue of the island in 1851 amounted to $13,821,456, whereof 
$1,651,414 belonged to the " alien" branches. 

timber, $398,811; re-exported articles, $514,4S5. The quantity of principal products 
exported was 1,539,994 boxes of sugar ; 575,119 arrdbas of coffee, 318,428 puncheons 
of molasses, 9,316,593 pounds of leaf tobacco, 270,313 thousands cigars. The average 
annual exportation for the five years ending with 1850 was as follows: 18,690,460 
arrdbas of sugar, 13,653 puncheons of rum, 240,155 puncheons molasses, 768,244 
arrdbas of coffee ; 48,141 arrdbas of wax, 291,347 arrdbas of leaf tobacco, 896,008 
thousands cigars, 598,647 quintals of copper. The average export of-coffee for the five 
years ending with 1835, 1,995,832 arrdbas; and between 1841 to '45, the average 
annual export of cigars was 941,467 thousands, and that of copper 1,023,S3S quintals. 

* It is not positively known at what time these situados began, but the receipt of one 
is recorded in 15S4. From a published statement, it appears that, from 1766 to 1806, 
the treasury of Havana received $108,150,627, which is an average of $2,637,820 per 
annum. The external obligations imposed on the island were principally the building 
of vessels, the purchase of timber, tobacco, etc. 

+ The present annual revenue of Mexico is only about $8,000,000. {See Catechism 
of Geography by General Abnonte, Mexico, 1852.} 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 63 

Expenditure. — The total of expenses of the island during 1851 
amounted to $11,969,750.* 

CommnnkatiOD. — We shall divide this section into Internal Communi- 
cation, or within the island, and External Communication, or with 
other countries. 

Internal Communication. — The mediums of land communication 
are the common roads, causeways, railroads, and electric telegraphs ; 
those of maritime intercourse are the coasting-trade and the lines of 
steamers and sailing packets between determinate points. 

Common Roads. — Respecting these, it should be said that they require 
much improvement, being in a very bad condition, as much from their 
indirectnessf as from their pavement, which, being natural, becomes so 
broken up, especially in the rainy season, as to be frequently impassable. 
A broad road runs through the centre of the island from Havana to 
Cuba, passing by Villa Clara, Santo Espiritu, Puerto Principe, and 
Bayamo, known as the Camino Real del Centro, or del interior. There 
are several other branch-roads to different towns and places on the coast.J 

Causeways. — There are at present — one ten and a half Cuban leagues 
in extent, from Havana {puerta de tierra) to Guanajay, with a toll-gate ; 
another from Havana to Santiago de las Vegas, scarcely four leagues in 
length from the corner of Teja, also with a toll-gate ; another, six leagues 
in length, from the corner of Tollo to Jamaica ;|[ another from Luyano 
to the Gallega tavern (east of Guanabacoa, and soon to be continued as 
far as Guanabo, by Barrera), three and a quarter leagues in length ; 
another from Casilda to Trinidad ; and another from Batabano to the 
beach, one league in length. 



* As follows : collection, $S09,971 ; justice, $169,002 ; ecclesiastical branch, 
$327,S05 ; civil expenses, $1,044,697 ; military expenses, $5,9S5,963 ; naval expenses, 
$1,965,444 ; peninsular affairs, $1,590,130 ; legations and consulates of America, 
|76,738. Total, $11,969,750, and adding the expenses of " alien" branches, amount- 
ng to $1,327,456, the total expenditure is $13,297,206. In 1S41 the amount, exclusive 
rf the alien branches, was $10,112,533, and in 1850 $10,475,159, although from 1823 to 
641 they did not exceed 3 to 4 millions of dollars annually. 

t The road between Cuba and Baracoa is so winding, that at some places it runs 
T*>ven leagues in an opposite direction to the one intended, besides crossing a single 
»itrer (the Joj6) 11 times. 

I The legal width of the highways is 24 varas, of the cross-roads 16, and of the 
bridle-roads 8 varus. 

|| There are three leagues more contracted for from Jamaica to the Fuentes tavern, 
by Mount Candela; and the continuation of the Guanajay road as far as Candelaria, 
with 27 economical bridges, has just been approved. Stages run daily from Havana 
to Marianao and Guanajay; from Havana to Santiago (two lines); from Havana to 
San Jose de las Lajas ; and from Pwegla to Guanabacoa, and as far as the Gallega 
tavern. 



64 Cuba : 

Electric Telegraphs. — The lines contracted for from Pinar del Rio to 
Cuba are already being' constructed, with branches to the principal towns 
on the coast ; and the section between Havana, Matanzas, Cardenas, and 
Guanajay will soon be in operation, running along the line of railway 
on the western part of the island. Messages are already transmitted 
between Havana and Batabano. 

Railroads. — The Island of Cuba enjoys the glory of having forestalled 
many of the most civilized countries in the adoption of these rapid, com- 
modious, and economical mediums of intercourse. After England and 
the United States, only Austria and France have preceded her — the first 
by three years, and the second by two. The railway opened in 1837 from 
Havana to Bejucal, and extended the following year as far as Giiines, is 
not only the first in the Spanish monarchy,* but in all the Spanish- 
American countries. Their present extent is 351 miles, or 133s Cuban 
leagues, distributed among the following lines : " Havana :" the Havana 
railroad consists of-108 miles, distributed as follows— Section from Ha- 
vana to La Union, 77 4-5 miles, with the following stations, viz., Deposito 
de Villanueva (in Havana), Cienaga, Almendares, Aguada delCura, Bin- 
con, Bejucal, Quibican, San Felipe, Duran, Guara, Melena, Giiines, San 
Nicolas, Los Vegas, Los Palos, Bermeja, and Union, where it connects with 
the Matanzas line; the branch-road from San Felipe to Bataban6, 9| 
miles, with an intermediate station at Pozo-Redondo ; branch from Bin- 
con to Guanajay, 21 miles, with the intermediate stations of San 
Antonio, Seborucal, and La Seiba. "Regla to Guanabacoa," 4 miles. 
" Matanzas and Sabanilla road," 47 £ miles from Matanzas to Isabel, 
with the following intermediate stations : Guanabana (where it connects 
with the Coliseo road), Cidra, La Sabanilla, Union, Bolondron, La Giiira, 
Navajas (where it connects with the Cardenas road), and Corral-Falso. 
The line is already surveyed for the branch that is to be built from 
La Isabel to connect with the Cienfuegos road at Las Cruces, touching 
at La Aguica. " Coliseo road," 16 miles (exclusive of the 7| between 
Matanzas and La Guanabana, connecting point), with the following 
stations : Guanabana, Ibarra, Caobas, Limonar, Sumidero, and Coliseo. 
The line that is to connect at this point with the Cardenas road is already 
surveyed and will soon be commenced. " Cardenas road," 63| miles, 
distributed as follows : trunk-road from Cardenas to Navajas, 29| miles, 



* The railway from Matar6 to Barcelona, the first on the peninsula of Spain, was 
opened in October, 1S4S; that from Madrid to Aranjuez in February, 1S51 ; and to 
Tembleque in September, 1853. But although this proves how late Spain adopted this 
advantageous means of communication, it must also be acknowledged that few coun- 
tries have evinced greater enthusiasm, patriotism, and decision in undertaking so 
many and extensive lines as are now being effected. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 65 

with the following stations : Contreras, Cimarrones, Bemba, Banchuelo, 
Corral-Falso, Montalvo, and Navajas ; branch from Bemba to La Maca- 
gua, 34 miles, with the following intermediate stations : Quintana, 
Perico, Tinguaro, Nueva Bermeja, and Agiiica. " Jficaro road," 34 
miles, distributed thus : trunk from Jucaro to Pijuan, 21 miles, with the 
stations of San Anton, Becreo, Artemisal, and Pijuan or Laguna Grande ; 
branch of La Sabanilla de la Palma, 4 miles ; branch of Banaguises, 9 
miles. " Cienfuegos to Villa Clara," 19 miles completed, with the sta- 
tions of Palmira and Las Cruces ; and 23 miles in process of construc- 
tion. " Mallorquin to Pijuan," in project. " Carahatas," half a league 
in the interior, in process of construction. " Sagua to Villa Clara," in 
process of construction. " Trinidad to Casilda and Santo Espiritu," in 
process of building. " Bemedios to Caibarien," 6 miles built. " Beme- 
dios to Santo Espiritu," in project. " Santo Espiritu to Sasa," in project. 
" Puerto Principe to Nuevitas," 44 3-5 miles, with the following stations : 
San Jose (in Puerto Principe), Sabana-Nueva, Alcoy, Minas, Bamblazo, 
Buena- Vista, and Villa-Nueva (in Nuevitas). " Jibara to Holguin," in 
project. " Manzanillo to Bayamo," in project. " Cobre to Punta de 
Sal" (port of Cuba), 9 miles, of which 3 are on an inclined plane. 

Lines of Steamers and Sailing-Packets. — Besides the sailing- vessels 
devoted to the coasting-trade,* the maritime intercourse of the island is 
performed by the following lines of steamers and sailing-packets, viz., 
between Havana, Matanzas, Cardenas, and El Jticaro, steamers alter- 
nating,every day, and reaching Matanzas in five hours ; between Bata- 
bano and Cuba', stopping at Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Santa Cruz, and Man- 
zanillo, time, five days ; between Batabano and Bailen, stopping at 
Dayaniguas, Coloma, and Punta de Cartas, one day ; between Batabano 
and Pinos island, weekly, time, a few hours ; between Havana and El 
Morrillo (Vuelta-Abajo, north coast) ; between Havana, Los Arroyos, and 
Bailen, Punta de Cartas, and Coloma. The foregoing are regular, but 
almost every month there are steamers that make voyages from Havana 
and Nuevitas, and even as far as Cuba, stopping at the principal inter - 

* The coast-shipping of the Island of Cuba offers two highly satisfactory considera- 
tions. The first is its extraordinary increase within the last 10 years, both cause and 
effect of the growth of our internal trade ; and the second is the excellence of the ves- 
sels and the variety of their motive power, there being in this regard no reason to 
fear a comparison with any other nation. The sailing-vessels employed in the coast- 
ing-trade are generally of sufficient capacity for the cargo that usually offers at the 
ports they frequent, and without neglecting solidity, they are in general fast sailers, 
thus combining three great advantages. In corroboration of this statement, witness 
those fine schooners that cover the waters of the harbor, some of them exceeding in bur- 
den many of the ocean vessels ; and it is also worthy of note that very few of them are 



66 Cuba : 

mediate ports. A steamer of 1 ,000 tons is expected from New York for 
the coasting-trade of the island, and others have been ordered. 

External. Communication. — The intercourse of this island with 
other countries is as yet only by means of vessels ; although it appears 
that the project of a submarine telegraph between the island and the 
American continent by the coast of Florida is likely to be realized. * The 
enviable position of Cuba, as the " Key of the New World, renders it 
exceedingly favorable as a stopping-place of all the navigation lines that 
are being established between Europe and America, and even those run- 
ning between the different ports of the latter continent. There are, in 
fact (besides the very numerous sailing-vessels), the following lines of 
trans- Atlantic steamers : between Havana and Cadiz, monthly ; time, 
20 to 24 days. Between Key West, Savannah, Charleston, and Havana, 
the American steamer Isabel, making two trips a month. Between New 
York, Havana, and Mobile, steamer Black Warrior, making two trips a 
month. Between New York, Havana, and -New Orleans, steamers Cres- 
cent City, Philadelphia, Empire City, United States, etc., twice a month. 
Between Southampton and Havana, monthly, English line. Between 
Havana and Buenos- Ayres, touching at Brazil, a new English line. 

Coat of Arms. — In 1516 it was granted to Cuba to use ei an escutcheon 
divided into two quarters, the upper emblazoned with the Assumption 
of Our Lady, mantled in purple and gold, and resting on a crescent, with 
four azure angels and clouds ; and in the lower the image of Santiago 
in a green field, with rocks and trees in the distance ; at the top the let- 
ter F, an I at the right and C at the left, being the initials of Fernan- 
do, Isabel, and Carlos ; at the sides, a yoke and arrows ; and beneath 
these figures, and pendant from the base, a lamb ; showing that Cuba's 
distinctive and most honorable emblem is, Mary, the Holy Mother of 
God." 

Measures t* — Long Measure. — The Cuban vara contains 848 milli- 
metres, and is divided into three tercias or four cuartas ; it is half 
an inch longer than the Castilian, or, more properly, that of Burgos ; 
therefore, by deducting from it 6 17-100 lines, we have the Castilian 
vara; by adding to it (say) 6£ Cuban inches we have the metre; and 
adding 2 10-12 inches it becomes the English yard. It is not customary 
to call the third part of the vara " foot," but tercia, or " third."t The 

* It is ordered, that after 1854 the metrical system shall be adopted in the depend- 
encies of the State. 

t This vara, known as the Cuban, provincial, De Flores, or surveyor's, is used 
throughout the island, except at ITavana, where, for trade and surveying, the vara Ha- 
banera, or commercial, is made use of, and contains 845 metres. Whenever, in this 
chapter, the term vara alone is expressed, the Cuban vara is meant. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 67 

Cuban or provincial league contains 5,000 Cuban varas, or 4,240 French 
metres, while the Castilian is 6,571 k Cuban, or 6,666| Castilian varas. 

Surveyor's Measure. — The cordel of 24 varas (formerly 25) ; the 
vara de tarea (used in clearings and chapeos) is a pole of 6 varas in 
length (in Cuba, 4 Castilian varas) ; the tendido de soga, 25 brazas 
or fathoms (formerly 32, which it actually measures in Cuba) ; the 
caballeria of land is a square of 18 cordeles, or 432 varas on each side, 
or 324 square cordeles, or 186,624 square varas ; the solar, or " lot," 
varies in different towns : in Havana it is 27 Habana varas front and 40 
deep, in Matanzas it is 30 Cuban varas front and 40 deep, in Guana- 
bacoa 20 by 30 varas, San Juan de los Remedios 30 by 40, etc. ; the card 
(carreau, French measure, adopted in the jurisdiction of Cuba), is the 
tenth part of a caballeria of land ; the raesana (besama) is a space of 
land for tillage bounded by four furrows, one on every side, of an extent 
adapted to rest the oxen at the turn ; the tarea (used in the chapeos or 
clearings) is a surface of 25 varas de tarea in length, and 1 in breadth, 
equal to 900 square varas ; the legua corralera (which is understood 
whenever a superficial league of hato and corral is indicated) consists 
of 105^ caballerias : the radius of an hato, or estate for large cattle, is 
10,000 varas or 2 Cuban leagues, its circuit (a polygon of 72 sides) 12 
leagues, its surface 12^ square leagues or 1, 684| caballerias of land; 
the radius of a corral, or estate for small cattle, is 5,000 varas, or one 
Cuban league, its circuit ,(a polygon of 72 sides) 6 2-10 leagues, and 
area 3 square leagues, or 421 1-9 caballerias ;* a corte de ingenio con- 
tains 30 to 40 caballerias of land ; cafelales, potreros, tobacco vegas 
estancias are of various extent, but commonly contain from 6 to 12 
caballerias the first, 6 to 40 the second, and ^ to 6 the last. 

Dry Measure. — The box of sugar is 5 cuartas (quarters of a vara) 
long, 2 high, and 3 wide, and contains from 16 to 22 arrobas net of 
white sugar.f The hogshead, or bocoy, used for Muscovado sugar, is 
of three sizes, containing from 40 to 60 arrobas net. The bag of coffee 
is%5 cuartas long and 3^ in diameter, and contains 6 to 8 arrobas of 
coffee. The saca, or sack, of coal is equal to the coffee-bag ; the saco, 
or bag, of coal is half a saca. The carga, or load, of tobacco is 2 ter- 
cios, or bales ; the tercio is 1 vara long, f wide, and \ high, and con- 
tains 70 manojos of libra tobacco (which is the finest quality) weighing 

* There are very few complete hatos and corrales. 

t When it contains less than 16 arrobas it is called estuclie, or case, and is not ad- 
mitted in trade. The tare (weight of the cask, leather straps, and the hooks for 
weighing) is graduated as 57 pounds. The tare of a hogshead of Muscovado sugar, 
110 to 120 pounds ; of a bag of coffee, 2 pounds ; and of a tercio of tobacco, 12 
pounds. 



08 . Cuba: 

5 to 7 arrobas, and of other qualities, 80 manojos, weighing 4 to 8 
arrobas ; each manojo contains 4 gavillas, and each gavilla 25 leaves 
if libra tobacco ; 30, if injured first quality ; 85, if second quality ; 40, 
if third ; 45, if fourth. The term gavilla is also applied to that portion 
of tobacco which may be contained in the ring formed by the thumb 
and forefinger, used in the case of injured fifth or sixth quality tobacco, 
or cuttings to serve for filling. The marquetq^of wax is £ vara long, £ 
wide, and J high, and varies in weight. The fanega of maize, or Indian 
corn, contains, in the western part of the island, 1,000 ears, or 8 arro- 
bas when off the husk; in Trinidad, Villa Clara, and Santo Espiritu, 
866 ears (mazorcas) ; in Puerto Principe, where it is termed seron in- 
stead of fanega, 800 ears ; in Cuba it is sold off the husk by the barrel, 
which contains 1,000 to 1,200 ears, or 180 pounds. A seron or caballo 
(horse-load) of plantains contains 60 manos, and each mano 5 to 7 
plantains if machos, or large, or 10 to 12 if hembr as, or small ones ; in 
Cuba they are sold by the hundred, each carga or load containing 275 
large, or 325 small plantains. The tarea of wood is 3 varas long, 1 
wide, and 2 high, equal to 10 caballos ; the cuerda, or cord, of wood is 
2|- varas long, 1 vara 16 inches wide, and 1 vara 16 inches high ; the 
caballo (horse-load) of wood contains 40 billets or splits. The legal 
load (for a long distance) of a carreta, or ox-cart, is 120 arrobas ; of a 
carreton, or dray, 40 ; and of a horse, 8. In Cuba, sugar, tobacco, and 
cocoa are sold by the quintal, or hundred pounds ; cotton, by the paca, 
or bale, of 2 varas long, 1| wide, and § high ; smdfrijoles, or pulse, by 
the barrel of 180 pounds. 

Liquid Measure. — The caneca, -6| gallons, or 10 frascos ; the 
frasco, 1\ litres; the frasco of gin, 1| bottles; the cuartillo, or quart, 
of the corporation of Havana, 86 centilitres ; the bottle (commonly used 
for Catalan wine and ale), 725 millilitres ; the pipa, or pipe, of Catalan 
wine, 24 garrafones, or 600 bottles ; the cuarterola of the same, 5 gar- 
rafones ; the barrica of French wine, 11 garrafones, or 280 French 
bottles ; the bocoy, or puncheon, is used for molasses, and contains 26 
to 30 American barrels of 5£ gallons;* the molasses cask, termed bocoy 
de play a, commonly contains 18 barrels ; the cuarterola of molasses is 
half a bocoy ; the pipa of rum, 180 frascos ; the barrel of wine, 4 
arrobas, or 80 bottles ; the barrel termed de conduccion, or transport- 
ation-barrel, contains 10 frascos ; the contrata, or contract-barrel, 
for molasses, contains 7 gallons at Havana, and 5g at Matanzas ; the 
American, or del comercio barrel, 5| gallons; the rum-barrel, 45 

/ * At present they are to be found as large as ISO gallons. The American gallon, 
which is n.sed in such cases, is equal to 5J bottles ; and the English gallon, 6£ bottles. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 69 

bottles ; the flour or corn-meal barrel, 7| to 8 arrobas, or 8| American 
bushels; the garrafon, or demijohn, 24 to 26 bottles; the botija, or 
jar, of oil, 65 to 7 litres, or \ arroba. The pluma de agua, or water- 
pipe, or conduit laid in Havana, is 4| Castilian lineas in interior diam- 
eter, the linea being 1-12 of the Castilian inch. 

Weights — Are the same used in Spain. The tonelada or ton=20 
quintals. The quintal=± arrobas=100 libras s equivalent to 46 kilo- 
grammes or 101.4 pounds avoirdupois. The libra or pound=2 marcos= 
16 commercial onzas or ounces=256 adarmes=768 tomes=9,216 granos 
or grains. The pesante (in weighing silk)=£ adarme. The arrelde (in 
weighing fresh beef )— 4 libras or pounds. In Spain it is 4 to 10 libras. 
Gold and silver are weighed by the Castilian marco or mark=50 eastel- 
lanos=400 tomines=4,800 grains. Apothecaries' weight is the Castil- 
ian ounce divided into 8 drachmas=24 scruples=576 grains. 

Currency. — Accounts are kept in the gold and silver coins of the 
Peninsula, but not the reales de vellon, nor copper money ; and with 
the difference that the Spanish ounce of gold, or doubloon, is worth 
$17 instead of $16, and its aliquot parts in proportion. The peso, or 
dollar, is equal to 4 pesetas, either pillared or of the Spanish-American 
stamp, or 5 Sevillian or simple pesetas ; a pillared or Spanish- Amer- 
ican peseta is equal to 2 reales fuertes, or 5 reales de vellon ; a real 
fuerte is equal to 2 medios fuertes ; a peseta sencilla (simple) is equal 
to 2 reales sencillos, or 4 reales de vellon ; a real sencillo, 2 medios 
sencillos. The maravedi, of 34 to the real fuerte, is only used in the 
accounts of the intendancy and militia. *In trade, the real fuerte is 
divided into 4 cuartillos, or 8 octavos, fuertes, which only in the taverns 
is admitted in regard to the real sencillo, as chicos. The ducado is 
understood as 11 reales fuertes. 

Forces.*— The army of the Island of Cuba is in the highest state of 
training, discipline, and equipment, and consists of 16 regiments of in- 
fantry of 1,000 men each ; 2 companies of merit, with 125 men ; a staff 
of officers for replacement ; 2 regiments of lancers, composed of 4 squad- 
rons each, with a force of 602 men and 500 horses, besides 4 extra 
squadrons, each of 151 men and 125 horses ; a regiment of 8 batteries 
of foot artillery ; a company of artillery- workmen ; a brigade of 5 bat- 
teries (4 for mountain service, and 1 mounted) ; and a company of 
engineer-workmen ; making a total of veteran troops, of 17,500 infantry ; 
1,808 cavalry, with 1,500 horses; 1,500 artillery, with 190 horses and 
mules; and 130 engineer - workmen ; together, 20,938 men and 1,690 

* Both the army and navy have been greatly strengthened by additions from the 
peninsular forces, and also by the enrollment of the militia.— Editob. 



70 Cuba : 

horses, exclusive of the civil guard, which also belong to the veteran 
corps. Besides, there are— a regiment of militia infantry ; a regiment 
of disciplined militia cavalry, with 781 horses ; 8 squadrons of rural 
troops, of 2 companies each, and 100 horses to each company ; 600 horse 
of the civil companies, and 140 more of the civil companies of Puerto 
Principe and Cuba : being a total of over 8,500 men and horses ; and, in 
case of need, the firemen, watchmen, safe-guards (foot and mounted), 
and carbineers of the customs of the island. 

The squadron on service at the station is composed of a frigate, with 
44 guns ; 7 brigs, with 104 guns ; 11 steamers, with 54 guns ; 4 schooners, 
with 11 guns ; 2 boats, with 6 guns; 2 transports ; a pontoon and a ship, 
both dismantled : total, 25 vessels, with 219 guns and over 3,000 men. 

There are also being built in the Peninsula 2 steamships for this sta- 
tion. The personal and material force of the island belonging to its 
marine enrollment is as follows : 2,052 effective men ; 495 on service ; v 
487 ineffective ; 7 vessels of over 400 tons ; 30 from 200 to 400 tons ; 99 
from 80 to 200 tons ; 295 from 20 to 80' tons ; 208 less than 20 tons ; of 
foreign construction, 389 ; steamers, 20 ; minor vessels, such as boats, 
etc., 2,454. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 71 



ADJACENT ISLANDS. 

ISLA DE PINOS s CAYO-KOMANO? GQAJABA, CAYO-COCO, AND 
TUPJGUANO. 

Isla de Pinos (called Evanjelista by Columbus, who discovered it in 
1494) is situated 18 maritime leagues south of Batabano.* Its great- 
est extent is 12 Cuban leagues from north to south, and 16 from east to 
west, with an area of 68 square maritime leagues, or 615J square miles, 
and its least distance from Cuba is 16| Cuban leagues from Punta de los 
Barcos to Punta Carraguao. The climate is acknowledged to be one of 
the most salubrious, for which reason a multitude of invalids annually 
resort to it, especially consumptives, who frequently regain their health, 
which in a great measure is due to the soft and beneficial nature of its 
waters. The aspect of the island is most diversified and picturesque, 
presenting lofty mountains, extensive plains, a multitude of streams, and 
a notable swamp, dividing it into two unequal parts, one on the north 
and the other on the south. At the north are the bays of Columbo and 
Bibijagua ; at the west, the bay of Los Barcos, and the vast one of La 
Siguanea ; and at the south several coves, among which is the remark- 
able one of Carapachivey, whose mouth is over a quarter of a league in 
width. The principal capes and points are — Cabo Frances and Punta 
de Columbo, at the north ; Punta Buenavista and Punta de Barcos, at 
the west; Puntas de Fuera, De Piedra, and Cayo del Este, at the 
east ; and Punta Cocodrilos, on the south. The most remarkable moun- 
tains are — Sierra de la Canada. 551 Castilian varas above the level of 
the sea, and flanked by natural walls as high as 50 varas ; the Daguilla 
ridge, 492 varas above the level of the sea : it is shaped like a cone, 
clothed at the base with thick forests, and at the top only with pastur- 
age : its summit commands a view of the whole island; the Sierra de 
Caballos (358 varas in height) and that of Casas, half a league distant 
from one another, are of marble of all kinds and colors, the white 
statuary marble being as fine as that of Carrara ; the Cerros of Bacu- 
nagua, Malpais, and San Jose ; the Cerro de Cristales is not lofty, but 

* Between 21° 27' 15" and 21° 5S' 17" north lat. and 76° 11' 11" and 76° 52' 6" west 
long, of Cadiz. Several interesting works have been published on this island by- 
Messrs. Tirry, Delgado, Lanier, Piiia, Serrano, and Poey. The best, as regards the 
geography of the island, is that of Sr. Lanier, who was commissioned by government 
to survey it in 1S31. Although in the great chart of the island its area is stated at 810 
square miles, only about 614 square miles are assigned to it by Sr. Lanier. 



72 Cuba : 

is distinguished for the abundance of true rock-crystal found at its base, 
and which might become an object of speculation. The principal 
rivers are — Las Nuevas, which empties on the north, and is the largest 
in the island : it is formed by the streams of Callejon, Cisternas, 
Piedras, and El Medio : it is prevented from being navigable by a bar at 
its mouth allowing a draught of only four palms ; the Santa Fe, whose 
waters are mineral, passes by the hamlet of that name, and empties at 
the east : it is navigable as far as the embarcadero de Balandras, distant 
one and a half leagues from the mouth, affording 10 to 13 palms draft ; 
the Rio Sierra de Casas, passing near Nueva Gerona, is navigable for 
vessels drawing five and a quarter feet, which is the depth at its mouth, 
although farther up it is two fathoms deep for the space of a league : it 
is 140 varas wide at the mouth, and 70 at Nueva Gerona. There are 
besides, the rivers Piedra, Guayabo, Jagua, San Pedro, Siguanea, De 
los Indios, etc. ; the lagoon De las Guanabanas, south of Sierra de 
Caballos, and the notable swamp receiving the waters of the Siguanea, 
San Pedro, and Jagua, and dividing the island into two unequal por- 
tions, one on the north and the other on the south, the only communica- 
tion being by a very narrow neck called Cayo de Piedras : the south part 
presenting great keys on low, bushy, or marshy land, covered with 
mangroves and yana so entangled as to be impassable, and containing 
many lagoons full of terrapins, alligators, etc., and through the gaps, 
some of which are 100 varas wide, is heard the noise of interior cur- 
rents of water. The northern section, which is the most interesting, 
and extends over a surface of 74 square Cuban leagues, contains the 
spacious savannas and the mountains and rivers already mentioned. 
The island is a dependency of Havana, and is under the immediate rule 
of a military and political commandant, who is at the same time Di- 
rector of the Colony, which, under the name of Colonia de la lleina 
Amalia, was founded in 1828, and consists of five square Cuban leagues. 
Nueva Gerona, the head of the colony is an interior port, picturesquely 
situated at a distance of three quarters of a league from the mouth, and 
on the left bank, of the Rio Casas, which there has a depth of two 
fathoms, although at its mouth the presence of a bar only affords a draft 
of five and a quarter feet. The land on which the town lies is a plain 
between the sierras de Caballos and Casas. It contains at present four 
wide and straight streets, running north-west and south-east, and 
north-east and south-west, which is the most convenient direction in 
these latitudes ; there are 109 houses in 82 blocks, and 157 lots for dis- 
tribution ;' two public walks, a church, barracks, hospital, and free- 
school. Besides two fine sailing-packets, there is a steamer running 
weekly from Batabano to the head of the island in seven or eight hours. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 73 

The town of Santa Fe, which was entirely destroyed in the hurricane 
of 1846, has begun to rise again within the last eight months, already 
containing 20 houses, and several in course of building. Its excel- 
lent mineral waters will cause it to nourish very soon. The popula- 
tion of the island in 1797 was 76, in 1828, 427, and at present is 
1,400, of which 160 are colored, and the rest white. The productions 
are cattle, small, but affording excellent beef, which is salted and ex- 
ported as jerked beef, to the extent of about 150 arrobas ; a little 
tobacco is grown, but of the best quality. There is an abundance 
of two kinds of pine trees (whence the name of the island), mahogany, 
cedar, and other valuable trees ; marble of all sorts and colors, rock- 
crystal, sulphur, black sand, etc. ; also mines of silver, iron, and even 
quicksilver (which was assayed by Don Esteban Saba, who discovered 
the silver). The inhabitants are chiefly employed in raising cattle and 
salting beef, quarrying marble, gathering tar and pitch, making spirits 
of turpentine, and especially in an extensive turtle-fishery, etc. 

Cayo-Roman© is a long and narrow island, divided by a channel 
about half at mile wide. It is over 16 maritime leagues in length, and 
two at its broadest part, and contains 172 square miles. It is flat, the 
only prominences being the not lofty mountain of Silla de Cayo- 
Romano, seen at a distance of 24 miles, and the Loma de Aji. It lies 
north-west and south-east, and contains a cattle estate abounding in 
horned cattle and horses. The jerked beef produced here is greatly 
prized throughout the island. There are, also, some timber, fine 
pastures, and productive salt-ponds, but no streams. It belongs to the 
district of Guanaja, jurisdiction of Puerto Principe. 

Gnajaha. — This island is situated between Cayo-Romano and Punta 
del Sabinal; is 30 maritime miles long, about 1J wide, and 15 square 
miles in area ; contains three cattle estates, well watered and fertile soil, 
and productive salt-ponds. It belongs also to the district of Guanaja, 
in the jurisdiction of Puerto Principe. 

Cayo-Co€0§. — This island has an area of 28 square miles, and abounds 
in fisheries. 

Turiguauo. — This island has an area of 38 square miles, and runs into 
the coast, with which it forms the Laguna de Moron. Under the denomi- 
nation of islands should also be placed the keys, so-called, of Ense- 
nachos, with an area of 19 square miles ; Cruz, 59 square miles ; and 
Cayo Largo, east of Pinos, 32 square miles. 

4 



74 s Cuba : 



DESCRIPTION OF THE JURISDICTIONS. 

Piiiar del' Rio, or lueva Filipina** — Boundaries. — North-east, the 
jurisdiction of Bahia-Honda.; east, the jurisdiction of San Cristobal; 
and on other sides, the sea. 

Capital. — Pinar del Rio, a town and curacy of 350 houses and 1,500 
inhabitants, and haying a municipal corporation ; situated on a rising in 
the vast and beautiful savanna south of the Sierra de los Organos ; dis- 
tant 45 leagues from Havana, whence the transit may be performed in 
one day by the steamer that arrives about 8 p.m. at La Coloma, only 
six leagues distant. The water of the rivulet Yagruma (affluent of the 
Guania) , which supplies the town, is excellent, coming, as it does, from 
pine-bearing land. The climate is so salubrious that in the year 1852, 
which was among the least satisfactory as regards health, the proportion 
of burials was only 158, to 569 christenings and 62 marriages. The in- 
habitants are styled Pinarienses. 

Petty Districts. — Pinar del Rio, Baja, Consolacion del Sur, Gruane, 
Mantua, and San Juan y Martinez. 

Communities. — Baja, a hamlet of 12 houses and 42 inhabitants ; a 
sub-curacy. Nombre de Dios (Baja district), a hamlet with 6 houses, 
19 inhabitants, and many vegas scattered around. Mantua, a village 
of 40 houses and 100 inhabitants, and a sub-curacy ; it is a " dry port" 
of considerable trade, the shipping of which is at the bay of the same 
name, and that of Los Arroyos, three leagues distant, the latter being a 
stopping-place for the " Veguero" steamer ; it is the most westerly set- 
tlement in the island, being sixty-six leagues from Havana. Montezuelo 
(Mantua district), a hamlet of 8 houses and 40 inhabitants. Lazaro 
(Mantua district), a hamlet of 7 houses and 25 inhabitants. Guane, a 
village and sub-curacy of 24 houses and 120 inhabitants ; it was for- 
merly called Filipina, and was the capital of the jurisdiction. Paso- 
Real de Guane (Guane district), village; 25 houses, 70 inhabitants. El 
Sabalo (Guane district), hamlet; 11 houses, 40 inhabitants. Garay, or 
Bailen (Guane district), hamlet; 4 houses, 20 inhabitants; it is a stop- 
ping-place for steamers, and has a tobacco trade. San Juan y Mar- 
tinez, village, sub-curacy ; 81 houses, 170 inhabitants, and surrounded 
by incomparable tobacco vegas. Noda, or Bahia Galafre (San Juan y 
Martinez district), hamlet; 5 houses, 50 inhabitants. Punta de Cartas 
(district as above), two warehouses ; a stopping-plar.e for steamers. San 

* So called because the district was first settled at Guane, under the name of Filipina. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 75 

jjuis, a village (district as before) ; 33 houses, 140 inhabitants. Colorna 
(Pinar del Rio district), hamlet, with 6 houses and 30 inhabitants, and 
a port of much trade, at the mouth of the river of that name ; six leagues 
distant from Pinar del Eio ; steamers stop here from Batabano, at 8 
p.m. Colon (Pinar del Rio district), warehouses and port on the Co- 
lorna River, five and one-fourth leagues from Pinar del Rio. Consolacion 
Sur, an old town and sub-curacy of 76 houses and 120 inhabitants, pro- 
ducing in its environs the best tobacco in the world. Santa Clara, vil- 
lage ; 16 houses, 20 inhabitants. Herradura, village ; 10 houses, 40 in- 
habitants. Rio Hondo, hamlet ; 6 houses, 30 inhabitants. These three 
last are in the district of Consolacion del Sur. 

Productions. — The chief is tobacco, of a quality unrivaled in the 
world ; it also exports cattle and some timber, likewise mangrove bark 
for tanning. It is the district that most abounds in pitch-pine trees and 
oaks, whence* arises the peculiar flavor of its pork. On its coasts and 
keys, both north and south, are plenty of turtle (including the tortoise- 
shell kind), caguamas, sea-cows, and sponges; and iguanas and flamin- 
goes abound; there are numerous birds for game, including parrots,' 
cranes, macaws, and carpinteros ?-eales, which overrun the district; 
there are also nightingales, aparecidos, and a greater number of mi- 
gratory birds than in the eastern districts, owing to greater proximity 
to the continent. The climate among the mountains is the most salubri- 
ous on the island, and the waters of the rivulets, irrigating pine lands, 
are soft and excellent. There are no coffee plantations, but there are 
marble quarries, and mines of gold, silver, copper, coal, arsenic, and 
other substances. 

Peculiarities. — Many caves in the Guaniguanico Mountains, and 
the remarkable arcades on the Cuyaguateje River. Longevity. — In the 
hamlet of Baja there lived, in 1847, Don Jose Hernandez, aged 110, and 
the negro Juan Crisostomo de Consolacion, aged 115. At San Juan y 
Martinez died Dona Lorenza Rubi, at the age of 108. The Creole Negro 
Jorje Sierra, at present aged 96, has his mother living. 

San Cristobal.— Boundaries.— North, Bahia-Honda and Mariel ; 
east, San Antonio ; south, the sea ; and west, Pinar del Rio. 

Capital — San Cristobal, sub-curacy (removed from Santa Cruz de 
los Pinos) and town, with 50 houses and 270 inhabitants, and a muni- 
cipal corporation, 24 leagues south-west from Havana and 5 from the 
south coast, and crossed by the river of the same name, of excellent 
water. The climate is of the best, the land being elevated and dry. 

Petty Districts. — San Cristobal, Candelaria, Los Palacios, San 
Diego de los Banos, and San Marcos, or Las Mangas. 

Communities. — Santa Cruz de los Pinos (San Cristobal district), a 



76 Cuba : 

hanilet, whence was transferred the church, in 1816, to San Cristobal, 
Santa Cruz (San Cristobal district), hamlet; three leagues east of San 
Cristobal, with 4 houses and 20 inhabitants. Candelaria, a curacy and 
town in a picturesque and salubrious situation, containing 54 houses and 
360 inhabitants. Bayate (Candelaria district), a village, with 13 houses 
and 70 inhabitants. Las Mangas de Rio Grande (head of the district 
of San Marcos), a village of 19 houses and 100 inhabitants. Mojanga 
(San Marcos district), a hamlet ; 6 houses, 130 inhabitants. Guanacaje, 
a hamlet and sub-curacy (San Marcos district). Palacios, town and 
sub-curacy, on the river of that name, 31 leagues from Havana, with 67 
houses and 320 inhabitants. La Isabela (Palacios district), hamlet ; 5 
houses, 20 inhabitants. San Diego de los Banos, or de las Galeras, a 
town of 50 houses and 130 inhabitants, permanent population, for during 
the bathing season (February to May) there are over 2,500 visitors ;* 
it is intended to build a church here. Paso Real de San Diego (above 
district), 50 houses and 240 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Tobacco, cattle, coffee, a little sugar, and wood of the 
finest descriptions, which is not exported because of the difficulty of 
transportation. On the keys at the south are found turtle, tortoise- 
shell, caguamas, flamingoes, etc. 

Peculiarities. — The celebrated baths of San Diego. In the mount- 
ains are found lithographic stone, agate, and other precious stones ; and 
the Cusco Mountain is the haunt of runaway negroes. 

B a Ma-Honda. — Boundaries. — North, the sea ; east, the jurisdiction 
of Mariel ; south-east, that of San Cristobal ; and south and west, that 
of Pinar del Rio. 

Capital. — Bahia-Honda, a town with a municipal corporation, 78 
houses and 570 inhabitants, situated half a league from the bottom of 
the port of that name, and 25 leagues from Havana. Nearly all the 
houses are built of palm, which gives the town an unfavorable appearance. 

Petty Districts. — Bahia-Honda, Consolacion del Norte, Las Pozas, 
and San Diego de Nunez. 

Communities. — San Diego de Nunez, town and curacy, with 70 
houses and 271 inhabitants. Las Pozas, or Cacarajicaras, a village 
and sub-curacy, 29 leagues from Havana, with 25 houses and 98 inhab- 
itants. El Morrillo, hamlet and embarking-place, with 5 houses and 13 
inhabitants. La Mulata, hamlet of 12 houses and 36 inhabitants, and 
stopping-place of the steamers of the north coast. La Vega de Ferral, 
hamlet, near the preceding, with 4 houses and 16 inhabitants. The 
last three are in the district of Las Pozas. 



* See the description of these baths by "Dr. Isidro Sanchez, 1S51. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 77 

Productions. — Sugar, cattle, copper, coffee, coal (mineral and vege- 
table) ; and on the keys at the north, turtle, caguamas, sea-cows, 
sponges, etc. 

Peculiarities. — Mineral waters in the Aguacate, and copper mines 
in the district of Consolacion del Norte. The territory is hilly, and 
some of its loftiest summits (such as the Guajaibon and Cajalbana) are 
extinct volcanoes. On Cayo-Blanco lives a fisherman 114 years old, 
whose son, aged over 80, is employed on the Regla steamers. 

Mariel.— Boundaries. — On the north, the sea ; east, the jurisdic- 
tions of Santiago and San Antonio ; south, that of San Cristobal ; and 
west, that of Bahia-Honda. 

Capital. — Guanajay, a curacy and town with municipal assembly, 
situated two and one-half leagues from the port of Mariel, and at the 
junction of the northern and southern roads of Vuelta-Abajo, and sur- 
rounded by valuable properties which have influenced to render it one 
of the most commercial districts in the island. The town is regularly 
built ; the situation is cheerful, and the climate cool and salutary. It 
contains a barracks, hospital, schools, and good hotels, among the best 
of which is that of the Five Nations. The distance from Havana is ten 
and one-half leagues by the causeway, and 21 English miles by the rail- 
road, of which it is the western extremity. It> contains 485 houses and 
3,000 inhabitants. 

Petty Districts. — Mariel, Cabanas, Cayajabos, Guanajay, Guay- 
abal, and Puerta de la Guira, Quiebra-Hacha, and Seiba del Agua. 

Communities. — Mariel, or Muelle de Tablas, a curacy, port, and 
town of 175 houses 'and 1,296 inhabitants. It lies 14 leagues west of 
Havana, and 2i from Guanajay, the terminus of the railroad of that 
name, to which place a causeway is being built. It was an authorized 
port and the capital of the jurisdiction until the 1st of January, 1854. 
Santa Cristo de la Sabana (Mariel district), with 4 houses and 20 in- 
habitants. Cabanas, a curacy, without a church since 1885,* and town, 
situated a short distance east of the bottom of the port of the same name, 
with 106 houses and 500 inhabitants. Amiot, a bay at the bottom of 
Port Mariel, with a hamlet (in the district and port of Cabanas), con- 
taining 10 houses and 50 inhabitants. Cayajabos, a curacy and town 
of 49 houses and 300 inhabitants. Puerta de la Guira, a curacy and 
village of 20 houses and 130 inhabitants. Artemisa (in the preceding 
district), a curacy and town of 54 houses and 280 inhabitants. When 
coffee commanded good prices, this district was appropriately styled the 

* There is a temporary oratory in one of the house3, pending the erection of the 
new church. 



78 Cuba : 

Garden of Cuba, for the beautiful coffee plantations that it contained.* 
Las Canas, in the same district, a hamlet of 11 houses and 100 inhabit- 
ants. Quiebra-Hacha, a curacy and village of 24 houses (including the 
hotel of the Five Nations) and 160 inhabitants. San Luis de la Seiba, 
or Seiba del Agua, a curacy and town of 60 houses and 330 inhabitants. 
Virtudes and Capellanias, both in the preceding districts, hamlets ; the 
first with 4 houses and 13 inhabitants, and the second 30 houses and 130 
inhabitants. Guayabal, curacy and village with 20 houses and 60 in- 
habitants. Banes, a town in the preceding district, with 60 houses and 
279 inhabitants, and resorted to for sea-bathing. 

Productions.— Sugar, coffee, wax, tobacco, coal, cattle, and pottery. 

Peculiarities. — Mineral waters at Charco-Azul. In the district of 
Seiba del Agua died Don Francisco de Castaneda, aged 119 years. 

San Antonio. — Boundaries.— North, the jurisdiction of Santiago, 
east, that of Bejucal ; west, those of Mariel and San Cristobal ; and 
south, the sea. 

Capital. — San Antonio Abad, or de Los Banos, a villa, or chartered 
town, since 1795. Situated south-west of Havana, on dry and rocky 
land. It is planned in the best manner, with right-lined streets, 690 
well-built houses, 2,890 inhabitants, a theatre, philharmonic society, 
schools, cavalry barracks, etc. The bread made here is of so excellent 
a quality that it is supplied to Havana. The river of the same name, 
after crossing the town, disappears in a cavity at the root of a remark- 
able seiba tree south of the town, constituting one of its greatest curi- 
osities. The distance from Havana is eight and a-half leagues by the 
directest common road, and eight by the railroad, the train of which 
arrives at 83 o'clock and leaves at 11. 

Petty Districts. — Alquizar, Giiira de Helena, and Vereda Nueva. 

Communities. — Alquizar, a sub-curacy and town, 10 leagues from 
Havana, with 108 houses and 562 inhabitants. The environs, like those 
of Puerta de la Giiira, contained such charming coffee estates at the 
time when the berry commanded a good price, that, like Artemisa (in the 
Mariel), it also was called the Garden of Cuba. Palenque, or Guaiba- 
coa (Alquizar district), a village of 14 houses and 50 inhabitants. Gua- 
nimar (Playa de) , an embarkmg-place and hamlet (Alquizar district), of 
8 houses and 42 inhabitants. Giiira de Melena, a sub-curacy and town 
of 146 houses and 496 inhabitants. Cajio (Banos de), in the preceding 
district, a hamlet of huts on the beach. Govea, a hamlet of 5 houses 
and 26 inhabitants. Vereda Nueva, a curacy and town of 158 houses 
and 606 inhabitants. Caimito and Tumba-cuatro, in the preceding dis- 

* See our modern illustrated map of the island. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 79 

trict ; the first a town of 46 houses and 203, inhabitants, and the second 
a hamlet of 7 houses and 24 inhabitants. 

PEaejLiARiTiEs. — The territory is among the most level and fertile of 
the island, although of the number least favored in regard to rivers. 

Havana^ — Boundaries. — North, the sea; east, the jurisdiction of 
Guanabacoa and Santa Maria del Rosario ; south and west, that of 
Santiago. 

Capital. — Habana (San Cristobal de), the capital city of the island,* 
situated on the margin of the fine port of its name, on a peninsula of level 
and calcareous soil. It is a fortified place of the first order, divided into 
two parts — the intramural, or walled, and the extramural — and is sur- 
rounded by imposing forts, among which that of la Cabana is one of the 
largest in the world. The streets, although generally right-lined, are 
mostly narrow, with the exception of the principal ones, which are paved 
with granite ; the rest suffer from the great and active trade, coupled 
with the deluging rains of the tropics. The principal ones are lighted 
with gas. It contains a cathedral (where the remains of Christopher 
Columbus are deposited) and several other churches; a court of judica- 
ture ; university ; seminary ; college ; lyceum ; a splendid theatre, capable 
of accommodating 6,000 persons, and where Italian opera companies of 
the first order have performed ; charitable asylums ; squares ; beautiful 
shaded walks and spacious saloons for recreation, and a fine military 
band plays every evening. The picturesque environs of the city are 
embellished by beautiful country-seats and extensive walks, affording 
a most agreeable picture, enlivened during the fine tropical evenings by 
a multitude of promenaders in fine carriages. There are 15 typographi- 
cal printing and eight lithographic establishments, at present issuing four 
daily and three or four monthly and semi-monthly publications. Besides 
the principal extramural wards which form the compact part, are includ- 
ed those of Atares, Pilar, Villanueva, Jesus del Monte, and Cerro, which 
are commodiously and economically communicated with by means of 
omnibuses continually circulating among them. Havana likewise com- 
prises the towns of Regla and Casa-Blanca on the opposite side of the 
port, communicating with the first by means of steam ferry-boats that 
start from each side every five minutes. Havana contains within its 
walls 3,810 houses, and without, in the chief wards, 8,542 ; together, 
12,352 houses, and a population of 108,083, exclusive of the troops, 
transient residents, etc. The populated parts of the wards of Pilar, 
Atares, Villanueva, Jesus del Monte, Cerro, and Arroyo-Polo contain 

* See our illustrated map of the city and environs, to be had of all booksellers in 
Havana, together with the ancient and modern map of the island, new edition, also 
illustrated. 



80 Cub 



A : 



2,004 houses and 17,832 inhabitants. It comprises within the walls a 
peopled area of 12 caballerias of land ; and without the walls, as far as 
Chavez bridge, including the peopled part of San Lazaro and Pueblo- 
Nuevo, 25 caballerias ,■ and adding thereto the 14^ caballerias com- 
prised by the wards of Villanueva, Atares, Pilar, Jesus del Monte, 
Arroyo-Polo, and Vibora, and 6^ by that of Cerro, which are all united 
to the city, the total is 57^ caballerias of land.* The port of Havana is 
one of the safest, most picturesque, and best frequented in the world, the 
arrivals in the month of March frequently amounting to 22 vessels in 
one day. It is considered the sixth in order of commercial importance^ 
The climate is .as healthy as any in the island, and would be rendered 
still more so by filling up a small swamp in the eastern part of the port, 
from which direction the breeze blows upon the city. The community 
is supplied with water from the Almendares Kiver by means of pipes 
and a trench, which serve to irrigate the land in its course, and 1 also 
to work several machines.^ This city gave birth to the historians 
Urrutia, Arrate, and Valdez ; the distinguished writer Countess de 

* Though in the last statistical returns it is stated that Havana and its suburbs as 
far as Chavez bridge, only comprises 17 caballerias of land, Don Mariano Carles 
(surveyor) and the author have found (5,780,000 square Cuban varas including as far 
as Chavez bridge and the populated part of San Lazaro and PuebloNuevo • 2 760 000 
the populated area of Horc6n, Jesus del Monte, and La Vibora ; and 1 200 000 square 
varas Oubanas the area of Cerro. The populated area of Madrid contains W Cuban 
caballerias; of Sevilla, 161- caballerias ; Barcelona, IT* ; New York, 153 • Philadel 
phia, 65 ; Baltimore, 42 ; New Orleans, 72 ; Boston, 31. 

t The only ports that exceed Havana in commercial importance are London Liver- 
pool, New York Marseilles, and New Orleans; and it is superior to Eio Janeiro, Bos- 
ton, Havre, PhUadelplna, Newcastle, Hamburg, St. Petersburg, Cowes. Bordeaux 
Constantinople, etc. The revenue from maritime customs at the port of Marseilles in 
1851 was 30,677,000 francs ; that of Havre, 26,164,000 francs : Paris, 11 570 000 Br 
deaux, 10,460,000; Havana, $5,797,476, or 28.937,880 francs; and Barcelona (in' 1S52* 
which was the most satisfactory year), $2,000,000. Although in the following comnar' 
ison of arrivals and clearances for several of the United States ports in 1850" and Hi 
vana in 1851, it would appear that New Orleans was inferior to Havana in the amount 
of shipping such is not the case when we add the coasting-trade of the former with 

at nZgto? %£* B0St0D ' "^ ^ t0tal *» — * ~* *»* 

VESSELS INWAED AND OUTWAED, EXCEPT COASTWISE 

l™j°* *& 8s& °ts- B?» 

P1 " ladel P h "' 537 132,370 479 m fiifi 

Sir 6 .:::::::::::; - SZ Z S 



Physical, Politic al, and Industrial. 81 

Merlin ; the philosopher Varela ; the eloquent and erudite theologian 
Don Augustin Caballero; the rhetorical Mendoza; the enlightened 
physician Romay ; the poets Zequeira, Blanchie, and Foxa ; the juris- 
consults Urrutias, Ayala,. Sans, Gonzalez, Gato, Ponce de Leon, Esco- 
vedo, -Santos- Suarez, Govantes, and Bermudez ; the archbishop Don 
Luis Penalver y Cardenas ; the statesmen Don Francisco Arango and 
Don Claudio M. Pinillos ; the witty comedian Covarrubias ; the generals 
Count de Reviliagigedo, Diaz-Pimienta, Count Mopox y de Jaruco, Ur- 
rutia (Don Carlos), O'Farrill, Quesada, Aristizabal, Zayas, Moscoso, 
Castillo (Marquis of San Felipe y Santiago), Montalvo (Don Juan) ; 
of Don Jorge Maria de la Torre, Counsellor of State and Minister of 
War ; and Don Antonio Caro, Counsellor of State. The inhabitants are 
termed Habaneros, although those residing without the walls are vul- 
garly called hueseros. 

Petty Districts.— Puentes-Grandes, Quemados, Arroyo-Naranjo, 
Calvario, and Pinos Island. 

Communities.— Pescante, a village between the Morro and Cabana 
castles (Casa-Blanca district); with 22 houses and 60 inhabitants. 
Casa-Blanca, a town (ecclesiastically dependent on the cathedral of Ha- 
vana), situated on the northern margin of the port of Havana, and con- 
taining 244 houses and 1,070 inhabitants. Regla, a town and sub- 
curacy, with 1,278 houses and 7,240 inhabitants, situated on the eastern 
margin of the port of Havana, with which city it communicates every 
five minutes by steamers. It contains a large foundry, fine warehouses, 

Kiver; and the following analysis has been made by Sr. Casaseca, Director of the 
Institute for Chemical Investigation : 

Almendare?. Yento. Seine. 

Water from Water from Water taken 

n„~-u^ • -j , the Aqueduct. the Springs. below Paris 

Carbonic acid gas (centilitres) 56.2 43.9 12.5 

Eesidue on evaporation (grammes) 4.492 &956 2MB 

Sulphate of lime 172 ^416 ^295 

Carbonate of lime 2.917 1.920 L940 

Carbonate of magnesia 321 .385 

Carbonated oxide of iron 116 ,080 

Silicate of iron 048 0S0 

Chloride of sodium 733 1000 

Deliquescent salts _ __ otq 

Organic extractive matter 185 ,075 '— 

From this comparison it appears that the Vento waters contain rather less carbonate 
of lime than those of the Seine, and in that respect are better. It is true that those of 
Yento contain nearly one third more of salenateor sulphate of lime than those of the 
Seme, but on the other *hand, the chloride of sodium and carbonate of magnesia held 
by the former should render them more digestive. According to recent analyses the 
Seine water does contain common salt. 

4* 



82 Cuba : 

and a good careening-place. Both Casa-Blanca and Regla are wards of 
Havana. Calvario, a town and sub-curacy, 2£ leagues from Havana, 
with 114 houses and 500 inhabitants. Mantilla (Calvario district), a 
village, with 22 houses and 106 inhabitants. Chorrera del Sur (Cal- 
vario district), a hamlet, 14 houses and 49 inhabitants. La Chorrera 
(Puentes-Grandes district), a village at the mouth of the river Almen- 
dares, 2 leagues from Havana, with 28 houses and 180 inhabitants, and 
is a resort for rural recreation. Arroyo-Naranjo, a town, with 68 
houses and 191 inhabitants. San Juan, in the preceding district, a 
hamlet of 9 houses and 24 inhabitants. El Puente, a .hamlet, with 5 
houses and 19 inhabitants. Arroyo-Polo (ward of Havana), a village 
of 23 houses and 110 inhabitants. Mordazo (Puentes-Grandes district), 
a curacy and town of 84 houses and 335 inhabitants. Puentes-Grandes, 
a town without a church, but united with Mordazo by a bridge, and 
containing 140 houses and 699 inhabitants ; La Seiba (above district), a 
hamlet between the preceding town and Quemado Viejo, with 12 houses 
and 40 inhabitants. Quemado Viejo, or Curazao, a hamlet in Quema- 
clos district, with 8 houses and 112 inhabitants. Quemados, a curacy 
and town of 100 houses and 520 inhabitants. Marianao (Puentes- 
Grandes district), a town, 3 leagues east of Havana, on the fine cause- 
way of Guanajay, with bathing establishments and a medicinal spring. 
It is a place of resort from May to September, and contains a grove 
arranged for balls, etc. Population, 540, in 126 houses. La Playa de 
Marianao (Quemados district), a village, with 37 houses and 118 
inhabitants. Uribazo (Quemados district), a hamlet near Marianao. 
Luyano, a village, with 14 houses and 90 inhabitants. San Antonio 
Chiquito, a town of the rural ward Del Principe (Havana), with 87 
houses and 509 inhabitants. Nueva Gerona and Banos de Santa Fe (see 
Island of Pinos). 

Productions. — The peculiar productions of the jurisdiction of Ha- 
vana are excellent fruit, garden vegetables from the very fertile and 
well-cultivated lands in the vicinity, and lime; and in the island of 
Pinos (belonging to the jurisdiction), those already enumerated in the 
description of that island. 

Peculiarities. — In the mountains near Luyano copper ore is found ; 
calcareous and schistose rock abounds, and there are also quarries of 
granite. 

Santiago* — Boundaries.— On the north, the sea and part of the 
jurisdiction of Havana ; east, that of Santa Maria del Rosario ; south, 
those of Bejucal and San Antonio ; and west, that of Mariel. 

Capital. — Santiago de las Vegas, a curacy and city, situated on level 
land of a reddish color and fertile, five leagues south of Havana, one 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 83 

from Bejueal, and half a league from the Rincon station. It is regularly 
planned with right-lined streets,* and contains 425 houses and 2,274 
inhabitants. The climate is very wholesome, being the only town among 
those surrounded by the cholera that has escaped that epidemic. It 
contains a theatre and a philharmonic society, and a barracks is being 
built for climatization. The inhabitants are called Santiagueros. 

Rural Districts. — Rancho-Boyeros, Calabazar, Santa Maria, and 
Rincon de Calabazas 

Petty Districts. — Arroyo Arenas, Cano, Guatao, Bauta, and Uba- 
jay, or Guajay. 

Communities. — Nueva Cristma, or Calabazar, a village with 28 houses 
and 102 inhabitants. El Rincon de Calabazas, a village with 16 houses 
and 68 inhabitants. Rancho de Boyeros, a village with 36 houses and 
140 inhabitants. Ubajai, or Guajai, a curacy and town with 69 houses 
and 221 inhabitants. Guatao, sub-curacy and town, five leagues from 
Havana, with 108 houses and 574 inhabitants. Cruz de Piedra, or Camino 
Real (Guatao district), a village of 17 houses and 113 inhabitants. Can- 
grejeras (Guatao district), a village with 28 houses and 114 inhabitants. 
Santa Ana (Guatao district), a village on the beach of that name, with 44 
houses and 49 inhabitants. El Cano, a curacy and town, four and three- 
fourth leagues from Havana, with 178 houses and 791 inhabitants. La 
Liza (Cano district), a village with 13 houses and 57 inhabitants. Ar- 
royo Arenas, a town with church, four leagues from Havana, with 69 
houses and 301 inhabitants. Cuatro Caminos, a hamlet with 10 houses 
and 32 inhabitants. Cantarranas, a village with 15 houses (on but one 
side of the road) and 66 inhabitants. Jaimanitas, a village with 21 
houses and 68 inhabitants. Santo Domingo, a hamlet with 8 houses and 
22 inhabitants. (The last four are in Arroyo Arenas district.) Hoyo 
Colorado (Bauta district), a town seven leagues from Havana, with 91 
houses and 505 inhabitants. Corralillo (Bauta district), a town with 37 
houses and 136 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Sugar, coffee, fruit, yuca bread, or casabe, starch, 
garden vegetables, and pottery. 

Peculiarities. — The coast is bordered with lagoons. There is ex- 
cellent clay for pottery. 

Bejueal. — Boundaries. — North, the jurisdictions of Santiago and 
Santa Maria del Rosario ; east, that of Guines ; south, the sea ; and 
west, the jurisdiction of San Antonio. 

Capital.— Bejueal (San Felipe y Santiago), a sub-curacy and city, 
founded in 1704, on level but high land (100 Castilian varas), at the 

* See the map of this city, its jurisdiction, and the most of its towns, about to be 
published by Sr. Carles. 



84 Cuba : 

foot of the Sierra de Bejucal, and containing 438 houses and 2,264 in- 
habitants. The city is regularly laid out, and the climate so salubrious 
that it affords instances of greater longevity than any other town in the 
island, as may be shown by the following examples, viz. : Felipe, an 
Indian, died at the age of 180 ; Doiia Dorotea Toledo, at 125 ; Don 
Pedro Acosta, at 116 ; Don Juan de Matos, at 103 ; Dona Teodora Do- 
minguez and Dona Juana Martinez, at 104 ; Don Jose Marrero, at 
112. The distance from Havana is six leagues, and eight from the 
roadstead of Batabano, and is the station of the principal trunk of the 
Havana railroad, whose passenger- train arrives at 1\ o'clock, and re- 
turns to Havana at 8 o'clock. 

Petty Districts.— Batabano, Gabriel, Quibican, and San Antonio 
de las Vegas. 

Communities.— La Salud (Santa Cristo de la), or Gabriel, a curacy 
and village, with 31 houses and 214 inhabitants. Giiiro de Bonigal 
(preceding district), a hamlet with 19 houses and 92 inhabitants. 
Quibican, sub-curacy and town, half a league from the Havana rail- 
road, with 166 houses and 592 inhabitants. Buenaventura (Quibican 
district), a village with 18 houses and 108 inhabitants. San Felipe 
(Quibican district), a hamlet and railroad-station, with 7 houses and 
32 inhabitants. Giiiro Marrero, a village with 18 houses and 108 in- 
habitants. San Antonio de las Vegas a curacy and town with 114 
houses and 610 inhabitants. Batabano, a curacy and town, situated 
one league from the roadstead of that name, with 143 houses and 898 
inhabitants. La Playa, a town, and southern terminus of the Havana 
railroad, and which, being situated on the Batabano roadstead, is gene- 
rally known by that name ; it contains 54 houses and 222 inhabitants. 

Productions.— Coffee, sugar, yuca bread, starch, maize, garden 
vegetables, fruit, and poultry, hogs, etc. Timber is scarce. The soil 
is fruitful, but probably least watered of any in the island. 

Peculiarities. — All the coast is swampy. Besides the cases of 
longevity already cited in Bejucal, Quibican district affords that of 
the negress Maria Mcolasa Perez, who died at the age of 110 years. 

nauafeacoa.— Boundaries.— North, the sea ; east, the jurisdictions 
of Jaruco and Rosario ; and west, that of Havana. 

Capital. — Guanabacoa (la Asuncion de), a curacy and villa since 
1555, situated less than a league east of the port of Havana. It is ir- 
regularly laid out, and contains 29 streets, 1,777 houses (mostly of bad 
appearance), and 8,100 inhabitants.* It has a philharmonic society. 
The climate, though dry and salutary, is hot during the day, and cool 

* See map of this town and jurisdiction, by Sr. Carles. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 85 

at night, even in summer. The medicinal virtues of the waters of the 
rivulets surrounding and running through the town, and the facilities 
of communication with Havana (by means of a railroad of four miles to 
Regla, and a causeway of half a league to the same town), attract many 
families during the bathing season, which extends from 1st May to 1st 
September. Notwithstanding the height of 80 varus on which the town 
is situated, the wells are of very little depth. The inhabitants are called 
Guanabacoenses, vulgarly Cazueleros. 

Petty Districts.— Bacuranao, Buenavista, Guanabo, Pepe- Antonio 
(formerly Penalver), and San Miguel del Padron. 

Communities.— San Miguel del Padron, a curacy and village of 14 
houses and 47 inhabitants. Jacomino and Luyano, in the preceding 
district ; the first, a hamlet of 5 houses and 24 inhabitants ; the second" 
a village of 18 houses and 49 inhabitants. Dolores, or Bacuranao, a 
curacy and village of 82 houses and 149 inhabitants. La Playa, or 
Boca de Bacuranao, in the preceding district, a village of 25 houses and 
88 inhabitants. Penalver, or Guadalupe (Pepe- Antonio district), a 
curacy and village of 29 houses and 121 inhabitants. Guanabo, a curacy 
and village, seven leagues from Havana, with 44 houses and 212 in- 
habitants. La Boca de Guanabo-(Guanabo district), a village of 8 houses 
and 54 inhabitants. Rincon de Sibarimar (Guanabo district) , a village 
of 17 houses and 60 inhabitants. Jiquiabo (Guanabo district), a curacy 
and hamlet of 8 houses and 34 inhabitants. Boca de Jaruco (Guanabo 
district), a hamlet, situated on the western side of the mouth of Jaruco 
River, with 12 houses and 32 inhabitants. Cojimar (Buenavista dis- 
trict), a village and port with 36 houses and 137 inhabitants; it affords 
abundance of game and fishing, for which purpose it is resorted to. 

Productions.— Excellent casabe, or yuca bread, coffee, sugar, gar- 
den vegetables, fruit, poultry, mineral coal, pottery, and very fine steel 
cutlass-blades of five cuartas. 

Peculiarities.— Wells afford water at the depth of three feet, al- 
though the land of the whole jurisdiction is high. In the district of 
Buenavista died the negress Juliana, at the age of 115 years, and Dona 
Francisca Alvarez, at the age of 109 ; and in 1847 there lived in the 
district of Penalver Don Anselmo Llerena, aged 114 years. 

Santa Maria del Rosario.— Boundaries.— North, the jurisdiction of 
Guanabacoa ; east, that of Jaruco ; south, those of Giiines and Bejucal : 
and west, those of Santiago and Havana. 

Capital.— Santa Maria del Rosario, a city founded in 1733, situated 
on high land, two leagues south-east of Guanabacoa 'and four from 
Havana. It contains 7 streets, 110 houses, and 450 inhabitants. 

Petty Districts.— Santa Maria del Rosario, Managua, San Jose de 



86 Cuba : 

las Lajas, Tapaste, and San Francisco de Paula (a dependency of the 
chief town). 

Communities. — San Francisco de Paula (dependency of the capital 
town), a village of 26 houses and 150 inhabitants. San Jose de las Lajas, 
a curacy and town of 164 houses and 1,050 inhabitants. Jamaica, in 
the preceding district, a hamlet of 18 houses and 150 inhabitants. 
Managua, a curacy and village, six leagues south of Havana, with 30 
houses and 400 inhabitants. Nazareno (Managua district), a town of 
57 houses and 300 inhabitants. Tapaste, a curacy and town of 100 
houses and 900 inhabitants. 

"Productions. — Fruit, garden vegetables, maize, sugar, coffee, and 
tobacco. 

Peculiarities. — This jurisdiction does not possess a single port. 
In Managua district died Dona Felipa Jorje, at the age of 120 years. 

€uines. — Boundaries — North, the jurisdiction of Jaruco ; east, that 
of Matanzas; south, that of Cienfuegos and the sea; west, those of 
Bejucal and Santa Maria del Rosario. 

Capital. — San Julian de los Gruines, a villa situated on level and ex- 
ceedingly fertile land, with 541 houses and 3,542 inhabitants, a good 
church and barracks. The streets are pretty wide. The distance south- east 
from Havana, by a fine causeway, is 12 leagues, but by railroad, 45 miles. 

Communities. — Guara, a curacy and village near the railroad sta- 
tion, with 42 houses and 176 inhabitants. La Catalina, a curacy and 
town of 79 houses and 231 inhabitants. San Nicolas, a curacy and vil- 
lage with 22 houses and 88 inhabitants. El Jobo (S. Nicolas district), 
6 houses and 27 inhabitants. Melena del Sur, a town with 72 houses 
and 309 inhabitants. Rosario, in preceding district, a hamlet and em- 
barking-place, with 5 houses and 10 inhabitants. Madruga, a curacy and 
town of 159 houses and 767 inhabitants, and mineral waters. Pipian, a 
sub- curacy and village with 24 houses and 120 inhabitants, in Madruga 
district. Nueva Paz or Los Palos, a town with the title of city, 20 
leagues from Havana, containing 112 houses, a church, and 655 inhab- 
itants. La Jagua, in the preceding district, a hamlet of 10 houses and 
48 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, wax, fruit, birds, and hogs. 
Deer abounds. There are marble quarries at Pipian, and hot baths at 
Madruga. 

Peculiarities. — The Loma de la Candela, " whence the most mag- 
nificent view in the world may be enjoyed," as Humboldt remarked, in 
allusion to the splendid valley of Giiines. In this jurisdiction alone 
has the advantageous system of irrigation been availed of. There are 
magnificent ingenios, or sugar plantations. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 87 

Jaruco. — Boundaries. — North, the sea; east, the jurisdiction of 
Matanzas ; south, that of Giiines ; and west, those of Santa Maria del 
Rosario and Guanabacoa. 

Capital. — Jaruco, a curacy and city since 1790, situated on the sum- 
mit of a hill, well planned and paved. It contains an excellent bar- 
racks, and 105 houses with 611 inhabitants. The climate is as salubrious 
as at Holguin, Bejucal, and Pinos island. The water drank is very soft. 
The distance from Havana, 10 leagues, and 12 from Matanzas. The 
inhabitants are styled Jaruquenos. 

Petty Districts. — Aguacate, Bainoa, Bio Blanco del Sur or Casi- 
guas, Jibacoa, and Rio Blanco del Norte. 

Communities. — Casiguas, a curacy and hamlet ; head of the district of 
Bio Blanco del Sur, with 6 houses and 18 inhabitants. San Antonio de Bio 
Blanco del Norte, a curacy and town of 50 houses and 311 inhabitants. 
San Matias de Rio Blanco, in the preceding district, a curacy and village 
of 35 houses and 79 inhabitants, situated on the roadstead at the mouth 
of the Jaruco Biver. Bio Jaruco (belonging to the head of the juris- 
diction), a hamlet of 11 houses and 28 inhabitants. Jibacoa, a curacy", 
" dry port," and town, 15 leagues from Havana, with 76 houses and 405 
inhabitants. The port of Butinel, which serves for its shipping trade, 
als- bears its name. Santa Cruz (Jibacoa district), a village of 21 
houses and 75 inhabitants. Aguacate, a curacy and town, 15 leagues 
east of Havana, with an oratory, 33 houses, and 177 inhabitants. Cara- 
ballo (Bainoa district), a curacy and town of 55 houses and 361 inhab- 
itants. 

Peculiarities. — In 1847 there lived in the city of Jaruco, in good 
health and in a robust condition, Don Luis Garcia, Don Francisco Rod- 
riguez, Don Geronimo de los Santos, and Dona Maria de Regla Sanchez, 
all at the age of 103 years ; and there died Don Felipe Gonzalez, aged 
119, and Dona Antonia Jorje, aged 120. 

Matanzas. — Boundaries. — North, the sea ; east, the jurisdiction of 
Cardenas ; south, that of Cienfuegos ; and west, those of Jaruco and 
Giiines. 

Capital. — Matanzas, a city, situated at the bottom of the angle of 
the harbor of that name; founded in 1693 on the Indian town of Yu- 
cayo ; it is well built, and occupies an area of 22 caballerias, contain- 
ing 4,000 houses and 26,000 inhabitants, including the bridge-connected 
wards of Versalles and Pueblo-Nuevo, separated from the city, the first 
by the Yumuri Biver, and the second by the San Juan. Matanzas is a 
curacy, and one of the best planned cities in the island : the streets, 
which run north to south and east to west, are somewhat wider than 
those of Havana, and the land is undulated in some places. Although 



88 Cuba: 



it is watered by two rivers, the inhabitants are supplied, for drinkimr 

The climate is unhealthy. It contains two-colleges, two printing estab- 
lishments (one of which publishes the Aurora^ daily P papt) * % is 
divided into eight wards. The inhabitants are called mLIcL, and 

island, although not as concerns population or buildino-s * 

875 ZZl^Tl S ^' m ° Ch "' ' C " aCy and ^ e ° ot 88 h °»™ ■* 
Le rf br , F ? nCIS0 ° de PaUla ' in the abOTe di ^ict, a mil- 

age of 2b houses and 144 inhabitants. Cabezas (San Antonio de las) 
a curacy and village with 48 bouses and 317 inhabitants. Bancs de San 

tZtlaio^V'f ( <f eiba - modla district >' a i-iet with 

houses and 10 inhabitants. Santa Ana, a curacy and village of SO 

hZUf 6 f inhab i tan \ La GUmabMa < S ™ ta Ana Strict, ! 
anfcolislc r U " ?t Mhabitants ' at a" junction of the Matan as 
527 inh b t , t\- AlaCraMS 't a t»™ »d curacy of 75 honses and 

tilTtv of b •, f^ (Lim ° nar diStfiCt) ' a hamkt at the «*"» «• 
tamity of the raiboad of that name, with 10 honses and 32 inhabitants. 

Union or Reyes (Alaeranes district), a village of 18 honses and 104 in- 
Bolond™ 1 ^! m . ot *>» Havana and Matanzas railroads. J 
Bolondron Alaeranes district), a hamlet of 13 honses and 109 inhab- 
itants station of the ra.lroad between Matanzas and Isabel. La Ber- 
meja ^Alaeranes district), a hamlet and enracy of 10 honses and 72 
inhabits, and i Sa railroad sM ^ j^ & ^ 
30 honses and 180 inhabitants, situated very near the Coliseo railroad 
Bancs de San Miguel (Limonar district), a hamlet of 27 honses and 18 
inhabitants • Cammar or Tumbadero, an inland port and hamlet of 8 
houses and 8 inhabitants. San Mignel de Camarioca (Caniniar dis- 
tant) bamle of 13 honses and 106 inhabitants. Boca de Camarioca (Can- 
imar district), hamlet of 17 honses and 44 inhabitants. Corral-Nuevo a 
village of 11 houses and 38 inhabitants. Canasi, in the preceding dis- 
trict, a village and enracy of 15 honses and 41 inhabitants. Sur °idero 

SabaX IT' ^f*' " haml6t ° f 7 h0USeS and 21 -habitants. 
Sabamlla del Oomendador, a curacy and town of 120 honses and 466 
inhabitants, and station of the Matanzas railroad. 



* See map of this city and jurisdiction by Sr. Picbardo 
t Twenty-seven leagues from Havana. 






Physical, Political, and Industrial. g9 

Kural Districts.— Alacranes, Cabezas, Corral-Nuevo, Camarioca, 
Canimar, Limonar. Seiba-mocha, Sabanilla, and Santa Ana. 

Productions.— Sugar, coffee, rum, molasses, tobacco, sweetmeats, 
garden vegetables, and fruit. 

Peculiarities.— The land is billy, fertile, and contains many valu- 
able plantations. There are several caverns, the most remarkable of 
which is that of Yumuri, and the splendid valley of that name which 
has an entrance near the city. Near Corral-Falso, Don Juan Arcina 
died, aged 118 years ; at Yumuri, Don Miguel Gonzales, aged 115 ; at 
Alacranes, Don Pedro Orozco, aged 105 ^ at the same place, the Mexican 
Indian Juan Escalona, aged 124 ; and there lived at Sabanilla, in 1847, 
Don Jose Chinique, at the age of 106, 

_ Cardenas.— Boundaries.— On the north, the sea ; east, the jurisdic- 
tions of Sagua la Grande and Cienfuegos ; south, that of Cienfuegos ; 
and west, that of Matanzas. 

Capital.— Cardenas, a town with a municipal assembly, founded in 
1828 on the bay and hacienda of that name, on level and marshy land. It 
is an authorized port since 1843, having increased greatly in importance 
since 1840, when the railroad was built, which was subsequently ex- 
tended to unite it with Havana. After the fire which occurred on the 
north side in January, 1853, some fine buildings have been erected, 
giving a fine appearance to the town as seen from the port. The area 
built upon and laid out contains 15 caballerias ; greatest length, 1,947 
varus ; width, 1,300 varas. The streets are 12 varas w,ide, except that 
of Isabel Segunda, which is 20 varas, and a few others yet wider. It 
contains 858 houses and 6,173 inhabitants. The distance from Havana 
is 30 leagues by the common road, and 121 miles by the railroad.* 

Petty Districts.— Cantel, Ceja de Pablo, Cimarrones, Guamutas, 
Hanabana, Lagunillas, Macurijes, and Palmillas. The town of Carde- 
nas constitutes a commissariat (which, however, also comprises several 
rural quarters) of the district of Lagunillas. 

Communities.— Cantel, a hamlet on a mountain, with 11 houses and 
68 inhabitants. Guasimas, a village, dependent of Cantel, with 14 
houses and 47 inhabitants. Lagunillas, a village with 27 houses and 
390 inhabitants. El Jucaro (in above district), a hamlet on the beach 
with 10 houses and 177 inhabitants, and terminus of the Jucaro railroad. 
Cimarrones, a curacy (church in process of building) and village of 43 
houses and 269 inhabitants. Bemba (Cimarrones district), a village of 
43 houses and 486 inhabitants, and station of the Cardenas railroad, 
where it connects with the Macagua branch. Guamutas, a curacy and 

* See map of this town published bj Sr. J. Lopez y Martinez. 



9C Cuba: 

village of 23 hcaises and 269 inhabitants. Roque, a village of 36 houses 
and 276 inhabitants. Hato-Nuevo, a village of 16 houses and 211 inhab- 
itants. Vergara or Alava, a hamlet of 6 houses and 58 inhabitants, 
and containing large warehouses perfectly stocked. Pijuan, a hamlet 
of 11 houses and 194 inhabitants. (The last four places are in Guaniu- 
tas district.) Palmillas, a curacy and village of 39 houses and 218 
inhabitants. Nueva Bermeja (Palmillas district), a village of 49 houses 
and 408 inhabitants. Sierra Morena (Ceja de Pablo district), a village 
of 15 houses and 96 inhabitants. Corralillo, or Felipe (above dis- 
trict), a village of 19 houses and 157 inhabitants. Macurijes, a curacy, 
without population. Isabel (Macurijes district), a hamlet of 5 houses 
and 24 inhabitants. Corral-Falso (above district), a town of 55 houses 
and 335 inhabitants,- surrounded by valuable plantations, and is a rail- 
road station. Navajas (above district), a hamlet of 9 houses and 34 
inhabitants. Hanabana, a curacy and hamlet of 6 houses and 22 in- 
habitants. Caimito (Hanabana district), a village of 25 houses and 151 
inhabitants. Jagiiey-Grande (Hanabana district), a hamlet of 9 houses 
and 69 inhabitants. 

Productions and Peculiarities. — The productions are sugar, 
coffee, cattle, coal, salt, and timber. The territory is level and exceed- 
ingly fertile, and filled with sugar and coffee plantations, and cattle 
estates ; it is the most traversed by railroads of any in the island, an 
effect of its flourishing agricultural condition The soil has produced 
sugar-canes of a truly astonishing length, thickness, and yield. In 1850 
we saw cut down at Hanabana a mahogany tree of the first quality, 
that measured over one and one-fourth varas in diameter. The cabinet 
of the profound naturalist, Mr. Gumlach, is well worth visiting. 

Sagaa la Grande. — Boundaries. — North, the sea ; east, Villa Clara ; 
south, Villa Clara and Cienfuegos; and west, Cardenas. 

Capital,. — Sagua la Grande, a town with a municipal assembly, situ- 
ated on the left margin of the river of that name, on level and swampy 
land, and contains 400 houses and 2,200 inhabitants, an infantry bar- 
racks, and two schools. It is an inland and authorized port, seven 
leagues from the mouth of the river of the same name, half the distance 
being in the windings of the river, as in a straight line it is but three 
and one-half leagues. From Villa Clara, to which place a railroad is 
about being built, the distance is 12 leagues, and from Havana 76. The 
inhabitants are called Sagilenos. 

Petty Districts. — Ama.ro (the head of which is Cifuentes), Calaba- 
zar, Jumagua (formerly Egidos), Eancho-veloz, Santo Domingo (a 
colony), and Yabu. 

Communities. — Pueblo nuevo de San Juan (Jumagua district), 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 91 

a village of 26 houses and 30 inhabitants. Jumagua, a hamlet of 6 
houses and 19 inhabitants. Guata de la Izquierda (Jumagua district), 
a hamlet of 6 houses and 23 inhabitants. Boca del Eio Sagua (Jumagua 
district), a hamlet of 7 houses and 32 inhabitants. San Francisco del Cala- 
bazar (Calabazar district), a village of 26 houses and 100 inhabitants. 
Viana (Calabazar district), a village of 22 houses and 160 inhabitants. 
San Narciso de Alvarez, a curacy and hamlet on the central highway, with 
17 houses and 109 inhabitants. Jiquiabo (Alvarez district), a hamlet 
of 5 houses and 20 inhabitants. Cifuentes ( Amaro district) , a town with 
church, 50 houses, and 270 inhabitants. Quemado de Giiines, a curacy 
and village of 47 houses and 170 inhabitants. Carahate, or Carahatas 
(preceding district), an embarking-place and hamlet of 14 houses and 
40 inhabitants. Colonia de Santo Domingo, a village of 40 houses and 
181 inhabitants. Playa de Sierra Morena (Rancho-veloz district), a 
hamlet of 4 houses and 18 inhabitants. Sierra Morena (Rancho-veloz 
district), a hamlet of 5 houses and 17 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Sugar, cattle, timber, coal, and some wax. 

Clenfiiegos.— Boundaries.— North, Sagua la Grande, Giiines, Matan- 
zas, and Cardenas ; east, Villa Clara and Trinidad ; south and west, the 
sea. 

Capital.— Cienfuegos, a curacy and villa founded in 1819, the neat- 
est and most regular of any in the island, situated on the small peninsula 
of Majagua, in the port of Jagua, the cleanest, safest, and most mag- 
nificent port probably in the world. The built surface is six caballerias. 
The appearance of the town is very fine ; the streets are wide and 
straight, and contain 950 well-built houses and 4,708 inhabitants ; a 
theatre that can accommodate 1,000 persons ; a school, and a printing 
establishment which publishes an hoja economies (economical sheet). 
The climate is very salubrious. It has the disadvantage of lacking good 
drinking water, being only supplied by the surrounding rivers. It is an 
authorized port, within 90 leagues of Havana, 23 of Villa Clara, and 21 
of Trinidad. The inhabitants are termed Cienfueguenos.* 

Petty Districts.— Camarones, Cumanayagua, Santa Isabel de las 
Lajas, Padre las Casas, and Yaguaramas. 

Communities.— Yaguaramas, a village and curacy of 30 houses and 
190 inhabitants. In the district of that name are the hamlets Los 
Abreus, of 16 houses and 30 inhabitants ; Jibacoa, of 20 houses and 40 
inhabitants ; and Bagasal, of 13 houses and 70 inhabitants. Camarones, 
a curacy and town of 80 houses and 400 inhabitants ; and in the same 
district, the villages Ciego-Alonso, of 14 houses and 150 inhabitants ; 



* See the different plans and maps of this town and jurisdiction by Sr. Lanier. 



92 Cuba : 

and Ciego-Montero, of 42 houses and 290 inhabitants. Cumanayagvia. 
a curacy and hamlet of 7 houses and 40 inhabitants ; and, in the same 
district— Arimao, a village of 43 houses and 251 inhabitants ; San Anton, 
a hamlet of 4 houses and 30 inhabitants ; La .Mandinga, a hamlet of 7 
houses and 40 inhabitants ; and La Sierra, a village of 18 houses and 110 
inhabitants. Las Lajas (Santa Isabel de), a town of 86 houses and 600 
inhabitants; and in the same district the villages — Cartagena, of 18 
houses and 130 inhabitants ; Santiago, of 15 houses and 160 inhabitants ; 
Salto, of 22 houses and 80 inhabitants; and Congojas, of 13 houses and 
60 inhabitants. Nueva Palmira (Padre las Casas district;, a village 
formerly called Ciego Abajo, with 40 houses and 210 inhabitants. Cao- 
nao (Padre las Casas district), a village of 28 houses and 150 inhabit- 
ants. El Salado, a hamlet of 7 houses and 20 inhabitants. Soledad, a 
village of 12 ho'uses and 100 inhabitants. Santa Rosa, a hamlet of 7 
houses and 25 inhabitants. Mordazo, a hamlet of 8 houses and 30 in- 
habitants. Medidas, a hamlet of 7 houses and 18 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Sugar, wax, timber, cattle, grain, tobacco, and,, 
hides. 

Peculiarities.* — The remarkable mahogany tree, four varas in di- 
ameter, cut down in 1808, and other subsequent ones. The fresh- water 
springs that arise in the sea on the <*oast. 

Villa €!ara.— Boundaries— North, Sagua la Grande and the sea ; 
east, San Juan de los Remedios ; south-east, Trinidad ; and south-west, 
Cienfuegos. 

Capital. — Villa Clara (Santa Clara), a curacy and villa, founded in 
1683, between two rivulets, on sandy and somewhat hilly land, 136 
varas above sea-level, and on the central road. It is a pretty town, and 
contains 1,090 houses and 6,604 inhabitants, a poor theatre, and a 
printing establishment that publishes the Eco thrice a week. The cli- 
mate is of the most salubrious in the island, as is proved by the fact that 
in 1852 there were only 546 deaths against 1,077 births and 127 mar- 
riages. The Sagua la Grande and Cienfuegos railroads will soon con- 
nect at this point, and render it the centre of a great trade. The dis- 
tance from Havana is 78 leagues, from Trinidad 24, from Cienfuegos 23, 
from Sagua 11, and 12 from Remedios. It is the birth-place of the 

* In January, 1849. the author published in the Diario de la Ecibana some notes 
on the Ingenios Of Cardenas and Matanzas, indicating all their elements (even to the 
dimensions of the buildings), crops, soil, etc., those districts containing the largest iu 
the island at that time ; but at present there is one being established at Cienfuegos 
whose probable crop is estimated at 80,000 boxes of sugar ! In this district, and at 
Cardenas and Sagua la Grande, canes have been produced nine varas high and five 
inches thick, and some caballerias of land have yielded 120 to 150 hogsheads of mus- 
covado sugar, being an average of 4 : 500 arrobas. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 93 

distinguished jurisconsult, Don Indalecio Santo-Suarez. The inhabit- 
ants are called Villa- Clareros or Poblanos. 

Petty Districts. — Anton-Diaz (formerly Egido), Baez, Esperanza, 
Manicaragua, Niguas (formerly San Diego), Pelo-Malo, San Lazaro del 
Granadillo, San Juan de los Lleras, or Yeras, and Selbabo. 

Communities. — Esperanza or Puerta de Golpe, a town and curacy 
of 180 houses and 1,580 inhabitants, situated on the central highway, 
and remarkable for the regularity of its buildings. El Salto (Lazaro 
district), a village of 15 houses and 220 inhabitants. Manicaragua, a 
town with church, 40 houses, 140 inhabitants, and 3 copper mines in the 
vicinity. San Fernando (above district), a hamlet of 9 houses and 30 
inhabitants, near a copper-mine. San Diego (Niguas district), a hamlet 
of 15 houses and 70 inhabitants. San Juan de los Yeras, a village of 35 
and 190 inhabitants. Yabu, a village of 13 houses and 27 inhabitants. 
Condado (Anton-Diaz district) , a town of 80 houses and 460 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Hogs, excellent draught horses, wax, cocoa, timber, 
copper, and some wheat and yerenes. 

Peculiarities. — Three copper mines, one of which was worked at 
the time of the Conquest, and silver and gold extracted from it. 

Trinidad. — Boundaries. — North, Reniedios; east, Santo Espiritu; 
south, the sea ; and west, Cienfuegos and Villa Clara. 

Capital. — Trinidad, a curacy and city since 1815, situated one 
league north of the port of Casilda, forming an amphitheatre with Mount 
Vijia. The climate is so healthy that the deaths in 1852 were only 354, 
against 834 births and 79 marriages. The area built upon is 11 cabal- 
lerias of land, nearly equal to that of Havana within the. walls. It 
contains 2,270 houses and 14,119 inhabitants, and a printing-office pub- 
lishing the Correo three times a week. The distance from Havana is 90 
leagues. It is a " dry port," communicating with the coast by the port 
of Casilda, whither a railroad is to be built, and is the stopping-place 
of several steamers. It is the birth-place of Malibran, an unfortunate 
hero in the late civil struggle in Spain. The inhabitants are termed 
Trinitarios* 

Petty Districts. — Cabajan, Casilda, Guaniguical, Giiinia de Mi- 
randa, Palmarejo, Rio de Ay, San Juan, San Francisco, Sipiabo (form- 
erly Jumento), and Tayaba. < 

Communities. — Casilda, thechief port of Trinidad, and future ter- 
minus of a railroad, with 185 houses and 1,400 inhabitants. Giiinia de 
Miranda, a town of 60 houses and 300 inhabitants. Cayaguani (above 
district), a hamlet of 4 houses and 18 inhabitants. San Pedro de Pal- 

* See the map of this city by Don Eafael Rodriguez. 



94 Cuba : 

marejo, a curacy and village of 20 houses and SO inhabitants. Caracusey 
(above district), a hamlet of 10 houses and 40 inhabitants. Rio de Ay, 
a curacy. Las Jiquimas, a hamlet of 6 houses and 30 inhabitants. 
Sipiabo, a hamlet of 5 houses and 15 inhabitants. Jumento, a hamlet 
of 8 houses and 20 inhabitants. . 

Productions.— Sugar, coffee, wax, mules, tobacco, marble, ox-horns, 
yarei palm leaf, and famous conserves and sweetmeats. On the coast 
are caught sea-cows, from the skin of which beautiful walking-canes 
and other articles are made. 

Peculiarities. — The magnificent valley of Los Ingenios ; the lofty 
mountain Pico del Potrerillo ; and the copper mines called Los Pobres, 
near Cabayan River, and one of amianthus. 

San Juan de los Remedies.— Boundaries.— North, the sea; east, 
Santo Espiritu and Trinidad ; and west, Villa Clara. 

Capital. — San Juan de los Remedios, a curacy and villa founded 
about 1545, and at present situated on level, low, and damp land, of 
reddish soil, rendering it unhealthy in the rainy season. Its appear- 
ance is fair ; and it contains a good church, 890 houses, 5,270 inhabit- 
ants, and a printing establishment publishing the Boletin twice a week. 
It is an authorized U dry port," whose shipping is done by the port of 
Caibarien, with which it communicates by a railroad of five miles. The 
distance from Havana is 86 leagues. 

Petty Districts.— Caibarien, Egidos, Guadalupe, Guaracabuya, 
Mayajigua, Santa Fe, San Felipe, Santa Rosa, Taguayabon, Vega-Alta, 
Vega-Redonda, Yaguajay. 

Communities. — Las Vueltas (San Antonio de), a village in Vega- 
Alta district, of 31 houses and 230 inhabitants. Guaracabuya, or San 
Anastasio de Cupey, a curacy and village of 24 houses and 170 inhabit- 
ants. Nazareno (above district), a hamlet of 9 houses and 32 inhabit- 
ants. Yaguajay, a village of 12 houses and 110 inhabitants. Mayaji- 
gual, a curacy and village of 42 houses and 260 inhabitants. Vives, or 
Caibarien, a port and town in the colony of that name, with 194 houses 
and 780 inhabitants ; it is a railroad terminus, and is having a church 
built. 

Productions. — Sugar, wheat, tobacco, cattle, cocoa, yerenes, and 
timber. 

Peculiarities.— ^The many and remarkable caves in the Sierras de 
Matacumbe. The cultivation of cocoa and wheat. 

Santo Espiritu.— Boundaries.— North, Remedios and the sea ; east, 
Puerto Principe; south, the sea; and west, Trinidad. 

Capital. — Santo Espiritu, a curacy and villa founded in 1514, by 
Velasquez, and situated a short distance from the river Yayabo, over 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 95 

"which is a fine bridge. It is regularly built, with 1,600 houses and 9,982 
inhabitants, and contains a printing-office that publishes the Fenix 
twice a week. It is an authorized " dry port," shipping by the port of 
Sasa ; a railroad is about to be built to Trinidad and Casilda, and there 
are projects of one to the einbarking-place of Sasa, and another to San 
Juan de los Remedios. Distance 101 leagues from Havana, 18 from 
Trinidad, and 50 from Puerto Principe. The inhabitants are vulgarly 
called Guayaberos. 

-PtTTY Districts.— Algodonal, Alicante, Banao, Cayaguasi (formerly 
Egidos), Ciego de Avila, Chambas, Iguara, Jibaro, Jobosi, Minas, Neiba, 
Pueblo-Viejo, Rivera, Santa Lucia, and Yayabo. 

Communities. — Sasa (Algodonal district), a village of 13 houses and 
60 inhabitants, and is the shipping-port of Santo Espiritu. Banao, a 
village of 25 houses and 110 inhabitants. Jicotea (district of Ciego de 
Avila), a village of 12 houses and 80 inhabitants. El Jibaro (San An- 
tonio Abad de), a cur°,cy and village of 28 houses and 450 inhabitants. 
Moron, a curacy and town of 222 houses and 1,200 inhabitants. Ciego 
de Avila, a village and curacy (known as San Eugenio de la Palma) 
with 40 houses and 800 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Cattle, tobacco, wax, sugar, cocoa, yorrei-palm, and 
famous lace. 

Peculiarities. — It coastj the sea both on the north and south, thus 
rendering the maritime and civil divisions nearly alike. Near' the 
capital town guava trees are very abundant 

Puerto Principe.- -Boundaries. — North, the sea and Nuevitas; 
east, Las Tunas and Bayamo; south, the sea; and west, Santo 
Espiritu. 

Capital. — Puerto Principe (Santa Maria de), a city situated on a 
low and sandy plain, vatered !_y the Tinima and Jatibonico streams. 
Its buildings, which afford nothing remarkable, occupy twelve and one- 
half caballerias of land, with winding streets, the most of Which are 
narrow, and numbering 3,576 houses and 26,648 inhabitants. It con- 
tains a fine theatre, and a printing establishment issuing the Fanal. 
The Intendancy and Court of Judicature that resided here (the latter 
being the first court established in Spanish America) have recently been 
suppressed. Here were born the botanist Don Tomas Pio Betencourt ; 
the orator Presbyter Fernandez (called Pico de Oro, or golden tongue) ; 
the priest Varona de la Vicenta (of historical and tragical memory) ; 
and the distinguished jurisconsult, Don Francisco de Armas. Distance 
fiom Havana 151 leagues, 12 from the port of La Guanaja, 22 from 
Santa Cruz, and 19 from Nuevitas, with which city it is connected 
by a railroad. Santa Cruz and La Guanaja, which belong to its 



90 Cuba: 

jurisdiction, are authorized ports. The inhabitants are called Cama- 
giieyanos* 

P*ttv DxsTHiCTs.--Sah a na Grande, Guayabo, Zaragozano, Monte 
del Homo, Maraguan, Guananey, Jimaguaisi, Porcayo, Caonao, Caobabo, 
Cubita Yaguajay, Padre Valencia (Conception), Najasa, Gnaicanamar, 
San Pedro, Altannra, La Trinidad, San Geronimo, Magorabomba 
Jarann, La Guanaja, SibanicQ, Cascorro, Monte-oscuro, Guaimaro 
Guaimarillo Yaguimo, Santa Cruz, Bioya (formerly San Juan), Cura- 
jaya San Carlos, Vertientes, Mata-Recua, Corojo (formerly Cumanay- 
agua), Yayabaco, Judas Grande, and Guanamaro 

CoMMUNixiEs.-Banao, a village of 22 houses and 110 inhabitants 
Cercado, a hamlet of 9 houses and 21 inhabitants. Tuabaquey, a ham- 
let of d houses and 14 inhabitants. La Entrada, a hamlet of 8 houses 
and 27 inhabitants. Limones, a hamlet of 5 houses and 9 inhabitants. 
Corojo, a hamlet of 8 houses and 23 inhabitants. Hermita-Vieia a 
hamlet of 10 houses and 19 inhabitants. Cubita (to which district the 
preceding hamlets belong), a curacy and hamlet of 6 houses and 29 in- 
habitants. Zaragozano, a hamlet of 4 houses and 13 inhabitants San 
Geronimo, a curacy and hamlet of 5 houses and 34 inhabitants La 
Guanaja, a village of 35 houses and 138 inhabitants. Sibaniyu, a curacy 
and town of 73 houses and 527 inhabitants. Cascorro, a village of 32 
houses and 196 inhabitants. Guaimaro, a curacy and town of 82 houses 
and 4o0 inhabitants. Guayabal, a village of 13 houses and 54 inhabit- 
ants. Santa Cruz, a curacy and town of 116 houses and 552 inhabit- 
ants; is an authorized port, 22 leagues south of Puerto Principe, and 
the stopping-place of steamers bound for Cuba. Vertientes (San Pedro 
de) a curacy (just transferred to Santa Cruz) and hamlet of 4 houses 
and 21 inhabitants. 

PnoDucTxo^s.-Sugar, cattle and horses, candles, soap, pottery, ex- 
cellent wax, horns, yarei-^lm leaf, tobacco, copper, mats, cheese, jerked 
beef, and fine conserves and sweetmeats. 

PECULiABm M .-The Sierra de Cubita, with its remarkable entrance 
diction ^ CaV6S " The iSland ° f Cay ° ROman0 bel ° ng3 10 this J uris " 

Nttevit a s.-Boi7 ND ARi Es .-North, the s^a; east, Las Tunas; south 
and west, Puerto Principe. 

CAPiTAi..-Nuevitas (San Fernando de) a curacy and city without a 
corporation, but having a municipal assembly, founded in 1819, on level 

I ?l, l T h ? the margln ° f the fine P° rt of that * am e, ^ a point 
called El Grmcho, where Columbus planted a cross, and Velasquez 

*• See the map of this city by Sr. Lavallee. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 101 

of the Mayari River, with 650 houses and 998 inhabitants. The district 
produces good tobacco, excellent wax, sugar, and cattle. Distant 21 
leagues from Sagua de Tanamo, 82 from Cuba, and 25 from Holguin. 
Contiguous to it lies the hamlet of Braguetudos, and near by those of 
La Herradura, Chavaleta, Arroyo Hondo, Guayabo, Cubonico, Caguasal, 
and Barajagua. Sagua de Tanamo, a town and curacy, distant 80 
leagues from Baracoa and 34 from Cuba, situated on a peninsula at the 
extremity of the hacienda Demajagua, and contains a barracks, 91 
houses, and 224 inhabitants. Its district contains at present 22 cattle 
estates, 3 ingenios, 1 potrero, and 337 tobacco vegas. The chief pro- 
duction is tobacco, of which in fruitful years the crop amounts 14,000 or 
15,000 quintals. El Cobre (Minas Santiago Real del Prado de), a villa 
without corporation, but with a municipal assembly, a curacy with a 
church, and a sanctuary containing the reverenced virgin Del Cobre ; 
460 houses and 2,069 inhabitants. Juan Diaz (S. de Tanamo district), 
hamlet of 9 houses and 15 inhabitants. Ti-Arriba (Concepcion de), a 
curacy and town of 74 houses and 126 inhabitants. Palma Soriano, a 
curacy and village of 45 houses and 185 inhabitants. Caney (San Luis 
del), a town with a sub- corporation and municipal assembly and curacy ; 
contains 151 houses and 622 inhabitants, and is noted for its fairs. So- 
capa, a small hamlet at the entrance of the port of Cuba, with 11 houses 
and 28 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Coffee, sugar, celebrated tobacco, pine-trees (at Ma- 
yari and Sagua), cotton, cocoa, hides, fustic, ginger, vanilla, and wax. 
Deer is so abundant that the markets are daily supplied with venison.* 

Peculiarities. — The coffee is as fine in quality as that of Santo 
Domingo or Porto Rico, for which reason it often commands double the 
price of that of Havana. The quality of the sugar, on the contrary, is 
not as good as that of the western department, probably because not well 
manufactured. This jurisdiction is the richest in copper oref and in 
timber and precious woods, such as mahogany (as good as the Haytian), 
fustic, Brazil-wood, dcana, etc. The oppressive heat of Cuba contrasts 
singularly with the constantly cool temperature of the Sierra Maestra, 
three and a half leagues distant, where many European fruits are culti- 
vated so successfully that artichokes, quinces, and strawberries are sold 
about the streets. Pinks grow wild in the cafetales of the Sierra 
Maestra. It is so cool on the heights around the city as to render extra 
bedclothes necessary at night, even in summer. There are a large nurn- 

* We have observed recently that venison is to be had in the markets of Havana. 

t The greatest depths of the principal mines which are being worked in this district 
are as follows— La Isabelita 30S Castilian varus, El Santuario and La Londena 2S3, 
Ban Jos6 264, San Andres 21S, etc. 



102 Cuba: 

ber of camels in this district for labor in the mines. The Sierra Maestra 
contains haunts of runaway negroes. 

Gnantanamo. — Boundaries. — West and north, the jurisdiction of 
Cuba; east, that of Baracoa; and south, the sea. 

Capital,. — Santa Catalina de Guaso, a town situated on level land 
near the Sal to de Guaso, three leagues (by the highway) north of the 
harbor of Guantanamo, with barracks, 134 houses, and 863 inhabitants; 
distant 25 leagues from St. Jago de Cuba and 44 from Baracoa. 

Petty Districts. — Guaso, Guantanamo, Humboldt (formerly Ojo de 
Agua), Los Indios (formerly Santa P^osa), Monte Libano, Tiguabos, El 
Toro, Ulloa (formerly Filipina), and Yateras. 

Communities. — Tiguabos, a curacy and town of 51 houses and 155 
inhabitants. Cerro Guayabo or Santa Bosa (Los Indios district), a ham 
let of 10 houses and 82 inhabitants, where there are still a few of the 
primitive race. 

Productions. — The lands of this district are the most fruitful in 
the island, but the greater part is uncultivated, although at present 
several large sugar and coffee estates are being established. The chief 
products are sugar, coffee, cotton, cattle, and timber and precious woods. 

Peculiarities. — The mountainous nature of the territory affords the 
finest prospects, caves, etc , and perhaps mineral substances. This is 
the district that contains the greatest number of French agriculturists 
and aboriginal Indians. 

Baracoa. — Boundaries. — North, east, and south, the sea ; and west, 
the jurisdictions of Cuba and Guantanamo. 

Capital. — Baracoa (La Asuncion de), the first settlement of the con- 
querors in the island, is a city situated at the bottom of a beautiful bay 
called Playa de Miel, at a height of five varus above the level of the sea, 
and seven leagues from Cabo Maisi. It was founded in 1512 with the 
title of villa, being one of the seven founded by Diego Velasquez. The 
streets are wide and level, and contain 34 tiled houses, 44 shingled, and 
422 of yarei-palm, a primary school, and a permanent population of 
2,400. The church contains the remarkable cruz de parra or vine cross. 
The climate is temperate even in summer, and would be the most salu- 
brious in the island but* for the lagoons that are formed in the rainy 
season. Water of excellent quality is supplied by the rivers Macagua- 
nigua and Miel. It is an authorized port and well defended. Distance 
69 leagues from Cuba and 44 from Santa Catalina de Guaso. The in- 
habitants are called Baracoenses. 

Petty Districts. — Cabacu, Cupey, Cagiieijabe, Duaba (San Pedro 
de), Guinea, Imias, Jauco, Jaimayabon, Jojo, Mabujabo, Maisi, Mata, 
San Salvador, and Velasquez. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 103 

Communities. — There are none besides the capital, for the colony of 
Moa or Vives contains hut two houses at present, the inhabitants hav- 
ing removed to Sagua cle Tanamo. 

Productions. — The land, though very hilly, is exceedingly fertile, 
producing all kinds of precious woods, timber, pine-trees, etc., also fruit, 
coffee, tobacco, cocoa, ginger, cattle, plantains, and abundance of cocoa- 
nuts of great size and fine flavor, most of the palms growing wild, and 
their oil constitutes one of the chief exports. 

Peculiarities. — The strange custom of riding on oxen. Mother-of- 
pearl shells in the mouth of the Miel River.* The Yunque, an isolated 
mountain of a conical figure, with a lake on the summit-, supposed to 
have been the crater of a volcano. On the hacienda Pueblo-Viejo, not 
far from Cabo Maisi, exists the foundation of a rectangular wall, 180 
varas long and 85 wide, which is attributed to the primitive inhabitants, 
although what purpose it was built for is not known. There are many 
remarkable caves abounding in bones, benches, jars, etc., of the early 
race. On the hacienda Mariana is a palm-tree with 10 arms, and the 
air is so cold in winter that the river is covered with a slight crust of 
ice. There are yellow and even white parrots, walnut wood like that 
of Europe, and the jaragua tree. 

* The author is indebted to Don Manuel Borges for many specimens of minerals of 
this district, several pearls, and a splendid opal two centimetres long and one and a 
half wide. 



104 Cuba: 



ANCIENT GKUQQJEIAPHY. 

Under this head are comprised the geographical notices that have 
been preserved both of the Indians, or primitive inhabitants, and of the 
first discoverers and conquerors of the island. 

The cattle-estates, ports, and especially the rivers and mountains, 
chiefly retain the Indian names, and, as they are numerous, we shall 
only notice such as are mentioned in the historical records and docu- 
ments of the-time-of the discovery and colonization in the fifteenth and 
sixteenth centuries. 

Cuba was the name of the island among the natives, although Colum- 
bus called it Juana on his first voyage in compliment to the Prince Don 
Juan, son of their Catholic majesties, and Alpha and Omega on his 
second voyage, and soon after it received the several names of Fernan- 
dina, Santiago, Ave Maria, and San Salvador, and was termed by mari- 
ners Lengua de Pajaro. Its original appellation has prevailed. 

Neighboring Land.— On the north Cautio (Florida), with the Cayos 
de Matacumbe (afterward de los Martires, and at present known as the 
Florida reefs) ; the Organos islands (Banco) de los Roques ; and the 
islands Yucayas or Lucayas, of which the most worthy of note are the 
Guanahani (now San Salvador or Gato— Cat Island), the first land dis- 
covered by Columbus in. America; the group of Bimini or Buyoca, and 
the islands of Arenas, which name was given by Columbus to the Mfica- 
ras shoal (which perhaps at thai; time protruded as islets or keys). On 
the east the island of Hayti, Quisqueya or Bohio, called Espanola by 
Columbus, and subsequently Isabela and St. Domingo, by which last it 
is best known.* On the south is the island of Jamaica, which Columbus 
called Santiago ; the Tortugas (at present Little Caimans), and Great 
Caiman. On the south-west the peninsula of Yucatan. 

Seas. — Columbus, on his first voyage, gave the name of Mar de Nuestra 
Senora to a tract of water which he traversed at the Jardines del Rey, 
and is supposed to lie on the north of the island of Cayo Romano. The 
bay of Cochinosf is also mentioned on the old charts. 



* This island has on the north the islet of Tortuga, a celebrated haunt of pirates 
until a late period. 

t Is it not likely that the name bestowed by the Spaniards on this bay was Conchil- 
los, instead of Oochinos ? The author infers it from the fact that Lope Conchillo was, 
at the time of the discovery and conquest, one of the most influential personages of the 
court, especially with regard to colonial affairs. (See the author's Memoria justified- 
tha del mapa antiguo.) 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 97 

founded the villa of Santa Maria del puerto del Principe. It contains 
170 houses and 830 inhabitants, and is the terminus of the railroad to 
Puerto Principe. 

Petty Districts. — Mayanabo, Montalvan, Bayatabo, and Nuevas- 
Grandes. 

Communities. — Baga, a village of 28 houses and 128 inhabitants, and 
sea-port, at the bottom of the harbor of Nuevitas, and contains an auxili- 
ary church. San Miguel, a town of 56 houses and 291 inhabitants. 
Villa Nueva, a hamlet and railroad-depot, containing 4 houses and 22 
inhabitants. Itabos y Yamagual, a hamlet in Bayatabo district. 

Productions, etc. — Tortoise-shell, sponges, cattle, timber, and woods 
(among which is the curbana, whose bark is an inferior cinnamon), 
copper, etc. There are large crocodiles in the Saramaguacan River, and 
the coast is infested by a plague of mosquitoes, jejenes, and other insects, 
almost intolerable in the rainy season. 

Tunas* — Boundaries. — North, the sea ; east, Holguin ; south, Ba- 
yamo ; and west, Puerto Principe and Nuevitas. 

Capital. — Tunas, a curacy and town, situated in the centre of the 
jurisdiction, with 289 houses and 2,004 inhabitants. 

Petty Districts. — Cabaniguan, Manati, Rompe, San Augustin, 
Unique, and Yarigua. 

Communities. — San Miguel de Manati, a hamlet of 12 houses and 
72 inhabitants. Yarey, a village of 35 houses and 96 inhabitants. 
Embarcadero, a hamlet of 8 houses and 28 inhabitants. Paso de Cauto, 
a hamlet of 5 houses and 20 inhabitants. Arenas, a small hamlet in 
Unique district. 

PRODucTioNs.-^Qattle, yaref-leaf, wax, copper, and building timber. 

Peculiarities. — The district is famous for the wildness and fierce- 
ness of its bulls, and contains extensive savannas. 

Bayamo.* — Boundaries. — North, Tunas; east, Jiguani ; south, Cuba 
and Manzanillo ; west, the sea and Puerto Principe. 

Capital. — Bayamo (San Salvador de), a city founded, with the title 
of villa, in 1513, by Diego Velasquez, in a great plain, on the margin of 
the Bayamo River (an affluent of the Cauto). It occupies a space of four 
and one-half caballerias of land, and contains a theatre, college, four 
schools, a philharmonic society, 1,351 houses and 5,875 inhabitants. 
The climate is unwholesome from September to October, during which 
period intermittent fever prevails. It is the birth-place of Doctor 
Infante, and of the priest Montes de Oca. Distance from Havana 
199 leagues, and 32 from Cuba Its shipping trade is done by Man- 

* See the map published by Don Eafael Eodriguez. 
5 



98 Cuba : 

zanillo and Cauto del Embarcadero. The inhabitants are called Bo,' 
yameses. 

Petty Districts. — Barrancas, Caureje, Casibacoa, Canto del Em- 
barcadero, Datil, Gnabaranao, Guajacabo, Guiza, Tamayo (formerly El 
Horno), and Valenzuela. 

Communities. — Gniza, a village (with title of villa and corporation 
till 1845) and curacy of 48 houses and 241 inhabitants. • Datil, a village 
one league south of Bayamo, containing a highly venerated sanctuary, 
39 houses and 165 inhabitants, and is a pleasure resort of the Bayamese. 
Horno, San Pablo del (Tamayo district), a village of 16 houses and 91 
inhabitants. Barrancas, a hamlet of 5 houses and 12 inhabitants. 
Cauto del Embarcadero, a town of 79 houses and 678 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Sugar, tobacco, arrow-root, cattle, yarei-le&f, vanil- 
la, casabe, woods (including fustic and pine wood), preserves, etc. 

Peculiarities. — In the southern part pine trees abound. Its chief 
wealth is in cattle. The famous Cauto Kiver traverses and disembogues 
in the jurisdiction. In the mountains is still to be found the indigenous 
animal called andards. 

Manzanillo. — Boundaries. — North-east, Bayamos; east, Cuba; and 
south and west, the sea. 

Capital. — Manzanillo, a villa and curacy, a mile from the mouth of 
the Yara Kiver. It is regularly built, with straight streets 14 or 15 
varas wide, but not paved ; and contains 595 houses and 3,050 inhab- 
itants. The climate is rather unhealthy. It is an authorized port, and 
serves for the district of Bayamos, distant 14 leagues, whither a railroad 
is in project. 

Petty Districts. — Bicana, Guabeje (formerly Jibacoa), Portillo, 
Seiba, Yara, and Yaribacoa. 

Communities. — Yara-Abajo, a curacy and village with 40 houses 
and 377 inhabitants, and surrounded by vegas of excellent tobacco. 
Zarzal (Yara district), a village of 26 houses and .34 inhabitants. Bica- 
na, a curacy and village of 34 houses and 291 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Sugar, yard-palm, cattle, precious woods and timber, 
wax, rushes, cocoa-nuts, dressed hides, the well-known Yara tobacco, 
turtle, tortoise-shell, and mullet roes. 

Peculiarities. — There . is an abundance of yarei and cocoa-nut 
palms, pitch-pine trees, and Tabasco pepper ; also copper, gypsum, ochre, 
and loadstone. In this district is the loftiest mountain-peak in the 
island, the Turqumo, and also the Ojo de Toro, where there are lichena 
and pine forests, as well as on the Sierra Maestra, and the indigenous 
animal guabiniquimar, at present very rare in the island. 

Holguiu. — Boundaries. — North, the old Bahama channel; east, the 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 99 

.;ea and the jurisdiction of Cuba; south, also Cuba and Jiguani ; and 
west, Las Tunas. 

Capital. — Holguin (San Ysidoro), a vicarage and beautiful city, 
founded in 1751 in a fine and fertile plain between the Jigue and Mara- 
non rivulets. It covers seven and one-third caballerias of land, and is 
one of the most regularly built in the island, with right-lined streets, 
693 houses, and 3.754 inhabitants. The climate is among the healthiest 
known. Distance 18 leagues from Tunas, and as much from Bayamo. 
The inhabitants are termed Holguineses. 

Petty; Districts. — Auras, Banes, Bariay, Cacocum, Dehesa, Fray 
Benito, Guirabo y Pedernales, Guabasiabo (formerly San Andres), Gua- 
irajal, Jibara, Majibacoa, Maniabon (formerly San Crist&bal), Santo 
Cristo, Sao-Arriba, Tocajo, Tacamara, Yayal, and Yareyal. 

Communities. — Punta de Yarey (Jibara district), a curacy and town 
on the western margin of the port of Jibara, seven leagues from Holguin, 
with a church, 257 houses, and 1.230 inhabitants. Auras, a hamlet of 
18 houses (inhabitants not enumerated), and Velasco, a hamlet of 5 
houses. Retrete, a curacy and hamlet of 4 houses and 11 inhabitants. 

Productions. — The excellent pasturage of this district causes cattle 
to be the chief production, but there is also abundance of fine woods of 
all kinds, including fustic and yarez-palm. There is also gold, copper, 
amianthus, loadstone, etc. Sugar, honey, wax, tobacco, casabe, copper, 
and timber are produced. 

Peculiarities. — This district contains the greatest number of fine 
ports. Cigar making is carried to great perfection, and the exportation 
is considerable. On the Banes estate are caves containing bones, instru- 
ments, utensils, etc., of the aboriginal inhabitants. 

Jignaiii. — Boundaries. — North, Holguin; east and south, Cuba; 
west, Bayamo. 

Capital,. — Jiguani (San Pablo de), a town with a sub-corporation, 
situated on the left margin of the River Jiguani, on somewhat hilly land, 
on the highway from Bayamo to Cuba, and contains 251 houses and 950 
inhabitants, an infantry barracks, and a school. Like Cuba, it is subject 
to frequent earthquakes. Distance 7 leagues from Bayamo, 14 from 
Holguin, and 25 from Cuba. 

Petty Districts. — Baire, Concepcion, Ojo de Agua, Yarey. 

Communities. — Baire, a village of 59 houses and 351 inhabitants. 
Santa Rita, a village of 15 houses and 140 inhabitants. 

Productions. — Sugar, cattle, tobacco, vanilla, wax. 

Cuba. — Boundaries. — North, Bayamo. and Jiguani, Holguin, and the 
sea ; east, Baracoa and Guantanamo ; south, the sea ; west, Manzanillo. 

Capital. — Cuba (Santiago de) , a city, founded with the title of villa 



100 Cuba: 

in 1514 by Diego Velasquez, on the eastern coast of the magnificent port 
of the same name, on clayey and hilly land, the highest part of which 
is 60 varas above the level of the sea. The streets are narrow and have 
a poor appearance, owing to the undulation of the land and the lowness 
of the houses, rendered necessary by the prevalence of earthquakes, and 
for the same reason they are built on piles. It contains 24,253 inhab- 
itants, a fine metropolitan cathedral,* a seminary-college, an economical 
society, four printing establishments (publishing two dailies, the Redac- 
tor and the Orden\), theatre, public walk, a fine square, a philharmonic 
society. Also a walk on the margin of the port, two very pretty squares 
adorned with trees, and a theatre (de la Reina), of good architecture. 
Water is provided of good quality by an aqueduct from the Paso de la 
Virjen. The climate is exceedingly warm during the day, in consequence 
of the city lying in a hollow, but cool at night, even in summer. Several 
lagoons in the vicinity seem to induce a propensity to tertian ague, and 
it is certain that the black vomit exercises greater power here than in 
any town in the island. The greatest degree of heat observed with a 
centigrade thermometer is 30° to 31°, yet the summer season appears 
to be more healthy than the winter. The two memorable earthquakes 
experienced by this city in 1853 will prove to be the cause of its great 
decline. Distance from Havana 236 leagues, 32 from Bayamo, 32 from 
Mayari, 25 from Santa Catalina, and 69 from Baracoa. 

Petty Districts. — Amistad, Andalusia, Armonia de Limones, Aser- 
radero, Barajagua, Bolanos, Brazo de Cauto, Caimanes, Caney, Cauto- 
Abajo, Dajao, Demajagua, Demajayabo, Dos Bocas, Enramada, Gu- 
anicG, Hongo-Losongo, Juan Angola, Jutinicu, Lagunas, Mamey, Ma- 
nantuaba, Maroto, Mayari-Abajo, Mayari -Arriba, Nimanima, Palma 
Soriano, Paz de los Naranjos, Pilon, Piloto- Arriba, Purial, Ramon, Rio- 
Frio, Rio Seco, Rojas, Sagua de Tanamo, San Andres, Sevilla, Ti- Arriba, 
Yaguas, and Zacatecas. 

Communities. — Moron, a curacy and hamlet (Jutinicfi district) of 
4 houses and 25 inhabitants. Mayari-Abajo (San Gregorio de), a 
curacy, town, and inland port, three and a half leagues from the mouth 

* In 1816, in building the foundations of this church, the sepulchre of Don Diego 
Velasquez was discovered. The breaking of the slab caused uncertainty regarding 
the year of his decease, but the documents published by Sr. Pezuela prove that it oc- 
curred in 1524. 

t There is published besides a monthly periodical entitled Memorias de la Real 
Sociedad Economical that nobly rivals the weekly issued at Havana under the name 
of Anales y Memorias; both containing very important information for the merchant 
and the man of science, and indispensable for the planter and the Cuban historian. 
The first is edited by Don Juan B. Sagarra and the second by Col. Don Jacobo de la 
Pezuela, 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 105 

. Capes and Points. — Cabo Guaniguanico, re-named San Anton, and at 
present San Antonio, doubtless by the famous pilot Anton de Alaminos 
(discoverer of the new Bahama channel) , who doubled it several times, 
although the change of name should have been in honor of Sebastian de 
Ocampo, who first doubled it ; Cabo Hicacos, which name continues ; 
Punta Yucanaca, opposite the western point of Turiguano island ; Cabo 
Palmas, a name applied by Columbus to the most westerly discovered 
by him on his first voyage, and which is supposed to be the present 
Punta Yana ; Cabo Cubana, termed Campana by Columbus, and at 
present Lucrecia ; Cabo Maisi, the eastern extremity of the island ; 
Cabo Cruz, name bestowed by Columbus, and retained. Punta Don 
Cristobal, mentioned in the oldest maps, and being better known than 
other more prominent ones, it was chosen as a boundary in the maritime 
division. Punta Serafin was the name given by Columbus to the present 
Punta-Gorda ; and, lastly, Cabo Corrientes, mentioned in several old 
charts. 

Islands, Keys, and Shoals. — Evangelista, name bestowed by Colum- 
bus on Pinos island, discovered on his second voyage, and whose Indian 
name is supposed to have been Siguanea ; Guajaba island, still so called ; 
Jardines del Rey, name bestowed by Columbus on a group of islands 
discovered on his first voyage, and which are supposed to be Cayo Ro- 
mano and its acljacents ;. Jardines de la R,eina, applied by Columbus on 
his second voyage to the Cayos de las Doce Leguas, of which he called 
Santa Marta, the one now known as Cayo Piedra, where he stopped ; 
Camarreos or Canarreos, a name given by the natives to the Banco de los 
Jardines and Jardinillos, and even part of the keys north of Pinos island. 

Ports. — Bahia-Honda* and Cabanas, are mentioned in the oldest maps ; 
Marien, changed to Mariel, where the commissioners sent by Cortes 
from Mexico to Spain put in ; Carenas, a name given the port of Ha- 
vana because Sebastian de Ocampo there careened his ships with asphal- 
tum, of which he found abundance. The present name of Habana is due 
to its being situated in the Indian province so called. Ports of Jaruco 
and Chipiona are mentioned in the old maps ; Yucayo, changed to Ma- 
tanzas by the conquerors on account of the slaughter (matanza) made 
by certain Indians of some Spaniards that had come from Uruba ; Saba- 
na is the name on the old maps for San Juan de los Remedios ; Mares 
is the name given by Columbus to a port and river visited by him on his 
first voyage, and supposed to be Caonao- Grande ; San Salvador, the name 

* Probably Bayamon, from an abundance of the native tree of that name, since said 
inlet of the sea does not correspond to the appellation of Bahia-Honda, being neither a 
harbor nor deep to a sufficient degree to thus distinguish it. In Santo Domingo there 
is a port named Bayamon. 

5* 



106 



/CBA : 



given by the religious Columbus to the first port and river visited by him 
in the island the 28th of October, 1492, supposed to be the river Maxi- 
mo.* Port of Santa Catalina, name given by Columbus to one visited 
by him on his. first voyage, supposed to be the bay of Sabinal ; Puerto 
Principe, the name bestowed by Columbus on the present port of Nuevi- 
tas; Ports Manati, Padre, and Nipe, cited in old maps ; Puerto Santo, 
name given by Columbus to the port of Baracoa, which he visited the 
27th of November, 1492 ; Puerto-Escondido, mentioned in old maps ; 
Puerto de Palmas, where Velasquez landed on coming to conquer the 
island, and which is the present bay of Palmas, between Guantanamo 
and Puerto-Escondido ; Guantanamo, a great bay called Puerto-Grande 
by Columbus, when he visited it on his second voyage ; Macaca, stop- 
ping-port of all the chief navigators of the south of the island ; Guaca- 
nayabo, at present bay of Manzanillo ; Vasco Porcayo de Figueroa, at 
present port of Santa Cruz ; Jagua, port visited by Sebastian de Ocam- 
po on his voyage round the island ; Matamano, bay entered by Colum- 
bus on his second voyage, and now called Batabano ; Guanima, a bay 
cited in some old maps, at present called Guanimar. 

Rivers. — Nearly all retain their aboriginal names. Those mentioned 
by history in the 16th century are as follows : Manimani, now Maniman ; 
Marien, now Mariel ; Bani, now Banes ; Casiguaguas, now Chorrera or 
Almendares ; Yumuri, that disembogues in the port of Yucayo (Matan- 
zas) ; Mares, name given by Columbus to the Caonao-Grande ; Luna, 
name given by Columbus, it is supposed, to the Jigiiey ; San Salvador, 
name given by Columbus to the river at whose mouth he first landed in 
the island, supposed to be the Maximo ; Toa, at present written Toar by 
some, disemboguing north-west of Baracoa ; Macaguanigua, name re- 
tained by one of the. rivers that empty into Baracoa; Yumuri, that 
disembogues near Cape Maisi ; Yara, which retains its name ; Jobabo, 



* Don Jose G. de Arboleya, in his Manual de la Isla de Cuba, offers a disserta- 
tion on the courses that the distinguished writer, Washington Irving, aided by an able 
and practical navigator, supposes Columbus followed along the coasts of Cuba on his 
first voyage. "We regret that the reasons opposed by him to the opinion of Irving (and 
others adopting it, like Humboldt, Sagra, and Navarrete) do not convince us, and that 
we have no time, to refute at length Senor Arboleya's opinion. We shall merely al- 
lude to his statement that we have adopted, without discussion or examination, Mr. 
Irving's judgment in the ancient chart published by us. We could not only prove our 
careful examination of Irving's opinion by what we wrote in 1836, but also that, not 
satisfied with the statements of books and maps, we undertook a voyage solely with 
the object of confirming the course steered by Columbus on his first voyage, embark- 
ing for the purpose in a government schooner, commanded by the lieutenant-colonel 
of the navy, Don Antonio Montojo (now harbor-master of Trinidad), and the results 
of which, together with views^ topographical descriptions, etc., we intend to publiah. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 107 

on whose banks gold used to be gathered : and in its vicinity is a rich 
copper mine worked by the conquerors ; Rio de la Misa, name given by 
Columbus to the river at whose mouth he caused to be said the first mass 
in the island the 6th of July, 1494, supposed to be the Jatibonico del 
Sur; Tayabo or Guaurabo, near Trinidad; Arimao, on whose banks 
gold was found, and at its origin was a rich mine of gold and silver (the 
San Fernando mine, which in modern times has only produced good cop- 
per) ; Onicajinal, the name which, according to Gomara, was that of the 
river on whose banks the villa of San Cristobal (now Havana) was orig- 
inally founded, and supposed to be the Mayabeque or Guines ; Caigua- 
nabo, now San Diego, and Cuyaguateje, which retains its name. 

Provinces.* — The provinces of the aborigines, hitherto proved, and 
which are mentioned by the old historians, are as follows, commencing 
on the west of the island : Guanahacabibes, on the peninsula formed by 
Cape San Antonio, and whose inhabitants were the most rustic, accord- 
ing to Diego Velasquez and the historian B. Diaz, which is strange, as 
they were the nearest to the civilized Mexican empire;! Guaniguanico, 
where the hacienda of that name is situated, near the Guadiana inlet ; 
Marien, now Mariel, where the hacienda of that name was situated ; 
Habana, which, doubtless, comprised the harbor of Matanzas ; Hana- 
mana, where is at present the hato called Hanabana ; Macoriges, where 
the hacienda Macurijes is situated ; Cubanaean (which signifies centre 
of Cuba), where there were gold-mines ; Sabana or Sabaneque, where at 
present are Carahatas and San Juan de los Remedios, which used to be 
called Sabana ; Jagua, around the port of that name, where gold was 
gathered ; Guamuhaya, about where Trinidad is situated ; Magon, on 
the south coast, near the mouth of Sasa river ; Ornofai, near the mouth 

* Until the publication of the author's ancient map and Memoria. justificativa, 
modern historians (even Herrera, Casas, and others) only mentioned nine provinces, 
and some of those erroneously named. In his said works the existence of thirty prov- 
inces is established — a number which, by a strange coincidence, corresponds to the 
jurisdictions into which the island is at present divided. " It is surely an error," sa} T s 
Senor Poey, " to believe that the Indians occupied only the provinces of which we 
have notice; especially if by province we understand a district governed by a cacique. 
We modern investigators are limited to the provinces mentioned in the primitive 
histories, remaining ignorant in regard to the rest, doubtless as numerous in the cen- 
tral and western parts of the island as in the eastern, which was the most known at the 
beginning of the 16th century." 

t This* circumstance, the paucity of reptiles in Yucatan of the same species as those 
of the island, and especially the great dissimilarity between the Maya language used 
on said peninsula, and the Siboney or Lucay spoken by the islanders (of the first of 
which the author has consulted grammars and dictionaries), should be borne in mind 
by any one attempting to determine the epoch at which Cuba was separated from the 
American continent. 



108 Cuba : 

of the river Jatibonico del Sur ; Camagiiey, about where Puerto Prin- 
cipe is situated ; Guaimaro, toward the present hacienda and communi- 
ty of that name ; Cayaguayo, supposed to have lain between the prov- 
inces of Camagiiey, Cueiba, and Maniabon ; Cueiba, about the present 
hacienda Cueiba ; Guacanayabo, where at present is situated the villa of 
Manzanillo ; Macaca, where is now the hacienda of that name ; Mania- 
bon, near the hacienda of that name : Maguanos, near the place of the 
present hacienda Maguanos- Viejos ; Bayamo, the site of the city of that 
name ; Maiye (Maibio ?) and Guaimaya, supposed to have been between 
those of Bayamo, Boyuca, Barajagua, and Maniabon; Bani, near the 
present hacienda and port of Banes (east) ; Barajagua, site of the haci- 
enda of that name ; Boyuca, toward the west of the port of Cuba ; Sa- 
gua, site of Sagua de Tanamo ; Bayaquitiri, where at present are the 
haciendas Baiqueri, Baiquiri, and the port of Bairiqueri ; Baracoa, 
site of the city of that name ; Maisi, about the cape so called. 

Communities — Guaniguanico, a town near the hacienda of that name ; 
Mayanabo, now Marianao ; Matamano, now Batabano ; Guanabacoa, at 
present a villa, then an Indian town, where in 1554 it was ordered that 
the natives who were roving about the neighborhood should be gath- 
ered; Tarraco, an Indian town near Guanabacoa. San Cristobal, the 
seventh villa founded by Diego Velasquez, the 25th of July, 1515 ; it 
was situated at the mouth of the Onicaginal Biver (Mayabeque, five 
leagues from Giiines), soon after transferred to the mouth of the Casi- 
guagaus (Chorrera), the site being known some time subsequently as 
Pueblo- Viejo), and about 1519 it was removed to the port called Carenas 
by Sebastian de Ocampo ; the name of Habana, added to that of said 
villa, arose from its being situated in the Indian province of Habana. 
Yucayo, an Indian town, where it is supposed that the city of Matanzas 
was founded ; Hanamana, now Hanabana ; Carahatas (written Cara- 
hate by Las Casas), an Indian town near the present hacienda and port 
of that name ; Caonao, a town near the port of Jagua, retaining the 
name. Camarreo or Canarreo, a town where Father Las Casas and his 
friend Pedro de la Renteria settled when Diego Velasquez had desig- 
nated the sites of the villas he intended to found ; according to tradi- 
tion, it was situated where at present is the hacienda Las Auras, where 
SeHor Lanier has found ancient earthenware and other articles that 
seem to confirm it. Trinidad, the third of the villas founded by Velas- 
quez, established in 1514, where now is Casilda, and soon after removed 
to its present site. Sabana, an Indian town, where in 1545 was founded 
the villa of San Juan de los Remedios, also called El Cayo, from having 
bsen situated on a key previous to its removal to the present site. Santo 
Espiritu, fourth of the seveu villas founded by Velasquez, established iq 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 109 

1514 on the extremity of the hacienda Minas, at the place called Pueblo- 
Viejo, where is a spot named Cayo de la Iglesia, because it was the site 
of the church then existing. According to tradition, the removal to the 
present locality of Santo Espiritu took place in 1522. Santa Maria, the 
fifth of Velasquez's seven villas, was founded in 1514 in the port named 
Del Principe by Columbus (now Nuevitas), near the place now known 
as Pueblo-Viejo, or Chorro de Lazaro Pinto ; it was afterward trans- 
lated to an Indian town called Caonao, and soon again to another 
populous one, called Camagiiey ; for which reasons this city, the most 
distant from the coast of any in the island, is termed a port, and 
hence, also, are the inhabitants called Camagiieyunos. Guaimaro, a 
a town which retains the name and position; Cueiba, a town on the ha- 
cienda now called Cueiba ; Maniabon, Bani, and Barajagua, towns near 
the haciendas so called ; Guacanayabo, a town and port corresponding to 
the situation of Manzanillo ; Bayamo, a town where Velasquez founded 
the second villa, which he. named San Salvador, because he was there 
delivered from the cacique Hatuey, and hence the present city is called 
San Salvador de Bayamo ; Macaca, a town and port near the site of the 
present hacienda of that name, and was a place of considerable trade in 
the early times of the Conquest ; Manicanao, a town where the famous 
Hernan Cortes was encomendero. Santiago, the sixth villa, was found- 
ed by Velasquez in June, 1515, in the western part of the port now 
known as Cuba, at the mouth of the river Paradas, so as to be near the 
del Cobre 'mines (for it was founded with the object of establishing a 
foundry) ; afterward, in consequence of the plague of ants and other in- 
sects, it was found necessary (as in the case of nearly all the other 
villas) to remove it to its present site ; in 1522 it received the title of 
city, and was known as Santiago de Cuba, the addition being doubtless 
to distinguish it in those times from Jamaica, which was also called 
Santiago. Caney, a town where still exist some of the aborigines, 
though not of as pure race as at Santa Rosa and Tiguabos ; Tiguabos, 
a town yet containing some of the indigenous race ; Bayatiqueri, an In- 
dian town. Baracoa, a town where in 1512 Diego Velasquez founded 
the first of the seven villas established by him in the island, calling it 
La Asuncion. In 1518 it became a city and bishopric, and was consid- 
ered as the capital of the island until 1522, when the distinction and the 
bishopric passed to Santiago de Cuba. Maisi, a town on the site of the 
present hacienda of that name, in whose vicinity are vestiges of great 
monuments, skeletons, utensils, etc., of the aborigines. 



1 10 Cuba : 



HISTORY OF THE ISLAND.* 

The history of Cuba is divided into five epochs : the first $ entitled 
Discovery, which comprehends the period from the landing of Chris- 
topher Columbus to the beginning of the Conquest, or from 1492 to 
1511 ; the second, entitled Colonization, which comprehends the period 
from the beginning of the Conquest to the division of the island into two 
governments, or from 1511 to 1607 ; the third, entitled Organization, 
which comprehends the period from the division into two governments 
to the siege and capture of Havana by the English, or from 1607 to 
1762; the fourth, entitled Civilization, which comprehends the pe- 
riod from the siege and capture of Havana to the declaration of free 
commerce, or from 1762 to 1801 ; and the fifth, entitled Prosperity, 
which comprehends the period from 1801, continued to the present time. 

First Epoclit— Discovery : 1492-1511. The island was discovered 
previously to Hayti or St. Domingo, by Christopher Columbus, in the 
evening of the 27th of October, 1492. He landed on the following day 
at the mouth of the River Maximo, which he named Port San Salvador, 
entering through the strait which no doubt is therefore called Boca de 
las Carabelas, north of the harbor of Sabinal. He afterward surveyed 
the coast westward as far as Punta Yana, which he named Cabo Pal- 
mas-, and, returning to the mouth of the River Caonao-Grande, which 
he named Rio de Mares, sent an embassy to the cacique of Camaguey 
(Puerto Principe), supposing him to be the Grand Khan of Tartary. 
After passing along the keys which he named Jardines del Rey, on the 
north coast, he steered toward Cabo Maisi, visiting the port of Nuevitas 
(which he named Puerto del Principe), and that of Baracoa, which he 
named Puerto Santo, following on to the island of Hayti or St. Domingo, 
which he discovered the 5th of December following, and named Espa- 
nola. 

Columbus revisited the island on his second and fourth voyages, but 
not on the third. On his second voyage, coming from San Nicolas (in 
St. Domingo), he reconnoitred Cabo Maisi ; then visited Guantanamo 
(which he named Puerto-Grande), and Cuba; and, steering south, dis- 
covered Jamaica, then returning to this island, and landing in the port 
of Macaca, whence he determined to reconnoitre the island on the south. 



* This division of the present volume is a translation from De la Torre's Elem.. de 
Qeog. e Hist, de la Ida de Giiba. Havana, 1S55. 



Peysical, Political, and Industrial. Ill 

His object being to determine whether it was an island or not, when he 
had arrived at the bay of Cortes, where the land curves southward, he 
became persuaded that it was a continent, and caused a certificate to be 
made to that effect by the notary he had on board. On his fourth voy- 
age he touched at Cayo Piedras, in the Laberinto de las doce Leguas, 
which he had already visited on his second voyage ; and subsequently at 
Trinidad and Macaca. Columbus died at Valladolid, in Spain, the 20th 
of May, 1506, aged about 70, and his remains were deposited in the 
Carthusian monastery of Seville, whence they were conveyed to the 
island of St. Domingo, and, in consequence of the revolution in that 
island, finally brought to this island in 1796, and deposited in the 
cathedral. It is at present intended to erect a suitable monument to 
his memory. Columbus died in the belief that the island was the eastern 
extremity of Asia, and it was not known to be an island until 1508, 
when Sebastian de Ocampo sailed round it by order of Nicolas de Ovan- 
do, governor of St. Domingo. 

The origin of the Indians of Cuba is doubtful, but it is generally be- 
lieved that they came over from Florida and the Yucayas,* and very few 
from Yucatan. According to some writers they numbered 200,000f at 
the time of the discovery, but others suppose much less, as it is known 
that in 1532 there were only 4 or 5,000. 

N The inhabitants of the centre especially were peaceful, and even timid ; 
those of the province of Guanahacabibes coarse and rude ; and those of 
the eastern part of the island were warlike, owing probably to the neces- 
sity of defending themselves from the frequent attacks of the cannibal 
Caribs. 

Their religion is described as a superstitious idolatry. Their divin- 
ities were called Semi or Vaganiona ; the devil, Mabuya ; and their 
priests or soothsayers, Behiques. However, to the great astonishment 
of Columbus and his companions, the cacique of Ornofay, after the first 
service of mass performed in the island, manifested a belief in a Supreme 
Creator, in the immortality of the soul, and rewards and punishments in 
a future life. .Their amusements were the areitos, or dancing and sing- 
ing parties, and the game of batos, or bat and ball, for which there was 
one or more squares in every town. They employed themselves chiefly 
in fishing, hunting, and agriculture. In their conucos or gardens they 
raised cotton, sweet potatoes, yuca (which "they called a/e), plantains, 
maize, pulse, sweet potatoes, etc. 



* Bahama Islands. 

t The aboriginal population of Porto Kico (one ninth the area of Cuba) was esti- 
mated at 600,000 ! !— {Translator.) 



112 Cuba: 

The Indians were called Siboneyes, and each province was governed by 
a cacique whose government was patriarchal. The nobles were termed 
naitanos, and the lower orders naborias. The caciques had the title of 
matuseri or highness ; the nobles, that of bahari or lordship ; and the 
plebeians were addressed as guaxoti, or you or thou. Their houses were 
built of the palm-tree, suited to withstand the hurricanes, and similar to 
those now called bohios. Some were of an oval form like those at pres- 
ent in Cubitas ; others coniform, and termed caneyes ; while those in- 
habited by the caciques were called cancies. The roofs were adorned 
with flowers, cobos, and sibas, or stones. No house was without a 
hamaca or bed, and some were furnished with seats called dujos or 
duchos, made of a block of wood shaped like an animal with eyes and 
ears of gold;* but the most general custom of the aborigines was to 
squat on their hams. Their shipping was limited to canoas or cayucos 
by which they communicated with the neighboring land. 

Second Epocli.— Conquest and Colonization : 1511-1607 The 
island was conquered by Diego Velasquez, native of Cuellar (Segovia) 
who was sent by Don Diego Colon, son of the Admiral Columbus and 
Governor of St. Domingo. He sailed from Salvatierra de la Saban'a in 
St. Domingo, at the end of November, 1511, with four ships and 300 
men, and landed in the port of Palmas, between Guantanamo and 
Puerto-Escondido. He was opposed by the valiant Hatuey, the cacique 
of Guajaba in Hayti, who with some of his vassals had taken refuge in 
the island on the occupation of Hayti by the Spaniards, but soon defeat 
ed him and condemned him to death at Bayamo. Velasquez then pro 
ceeded to distribute the territory in encomiendas (commanderies) in 
aid of which measure he founded the villa of Asuncion on the site called 
Baracoa by the Indians. He afterward founded Bayamo, and in 1514 
Trinidad, Santo Espiritu, Santa Maria at the port named del Prineine 
by Columbus; in 1515 Santiago de Cuba, and the 25th of July same 
year, the Havana, at the mouth of the Mayabeque River. Havana was 
afterward transferred to the mouth of the Elver Chorrera, and subse 
quently to its present site, where, in 1519, the first mass was cele- 
brated under a seiba tree, where at present is the monument of the 
Templete, erected to commemorate that ceremony. The villa or town 
of Santa Maria was founded at the port called del Principe by Colum 
bas (now Nuevitas), near the bay of Guincho, but in consequence of the 
abundance of insects, and piratical invasions, it was transferred to the 
Indian town of Caonao, and finally to that of Camaguey-for which 

* In 1775 one of these seats was in the possession of Dona Conception Guerra in 
Bayamo, having belonged to the cacique of that province. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 117 

The following sovereigns have reigned in Spain since the discovery of 
Cuba : Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabel of Castile, styled the Catholic 
sovereigns, the discovery having been made under the auspices t>f the 
latter in 1492; Philip I. and Jane, who ascended the throne in 1506 
Charles I. of Spain and V. of Germany, in 1516 ; Philip IT., in 1556 
Philip in., in 1598 ; Philip IT., in 1621 ; Charles II., in 1659; Philip V 
(first time), in 1700 : Louis I., in 1724 ; Philip V. (second time), in 1725 
Ferdinand VI, in 1746; Charles III., in 1759; Charles IV., in 1788 
Ferdinand VLL, in 1808 ; and Isabel II., in 1833. 

The governors of the island who have distinguished themselves, pre- 
vious to Tacon, whose successors are yet living, are the following : the 
Marquis de la Torre, who instituted the police, and many material and 
ornamental improvements. The memorable Don Luis de las Casas, to 
whom beneficence and literature owe so much. Sr. Someruelos, who sus- 
tained the island in the midst of the stormy events of the Peninsula in 
the years '8 to '12 ; and Sr. Vives, who, with prudent and wise policy, 
protecting the natives, saved the island from following in the footsteps 
of the other Spanish- American possessions. 

Among other public functionaries, the following have distinguished 
themselves : Bishop Compostela, who established various country cura- 
cies and charitable institutions. The memorable Espada y Landa, dis- 
tinguished as the Mecsenas and the friend of humanity in Cuba. The 
superintendents Don Alexandro Eamirez, ever to be remembered for the 
immense benefits due him by the island, the confirmation of property in 
the lands granted as mercedes, freedom of forests, abolition of the to- 
bacco monopoly, etc. ; and Don Francisco Arango, who merited a statue 
for having promoted free trade and the freedom of tobacco, which he 
constantly strove for until he obtained them ; and Count Villanueva, 
whose enlightened financial administration has contributed to the aggran- 
dizement of the island. The following individuals also deserve honor- 
able mention : Don-Martin Calvo de Arrieta, who established a fund to 
provide portions for young women. Don Francisco Carballo, who found- 
ed the celebrated school of Belen (almost the only educational institu- 
tion in Havana until the end of last century) ; and Father Espit (known 
as Padre Valencia), missionary of Puerto Principe. 



STATISTICS OF CUBA, 1853, 



POPULATION OF THE ISLAND. 



JURISDICTIONS. Areasq.m. 
Western Department. 

Piiiar del Bio.. 3,713 
San Crist6bal ... 905 

Bahia-Honda .. 762 

Mariel 572 

San Antonio . . . 154 

Habana 893 

Santiago 214 

Bejucal 191 

Guanabacoa . . . 166 

Eosario.. 309 

Guinea .' 1,181 

Jaruco 512 



21,843 


3,824 


11,578 


1,923 


4,124 


621 


15,921 


2,849 


12,284 


1,721 


87,916 


32.594 


7,194 


1.597 


10,817 ' 


1,746 


10.721 


3,273 


11,764 


2,841 


18,214 


2,442 


10,218 


1,875 


34.721 


5,948 


27.521 


3.824 


14,534 


1,173 


17,811 


4,124 


25,592 


8,528 


15,208 


7,324 


15,149 


3,821 


24,321 


6,394 



Cardenas 1,262 

Sagua 1,464 

Oienfuegos 2,558 

Santa Clara .... 1,345 

Trinidad 868 

Eemedios 2,439 

Santo Espiritu.. 3,819 

Total 24,133 397,451 

Eastern Department. 

Puerto Piincipe 6,009 26,893 

Nuevitas 2,261 2,721 

Tunas 2,725 3,818 

Manzanillo .... 1.380 7,321 

Holguin 2,523 19,427 

Bayamo 4,309 10,721 

Jiguanl 702 6,721 

Cuba 3,177 21,524 

Guantanamo ... 1.595 1,574 

Baracoa 1,464 3,817 



Col. Slaves. Total Pop. Chief Towns. 



6,548 

5,494 

19,422 

10,188 

26,850 

4,964 

7,938 

4,322 

5,428 

16,918 

8,186 

40,728 

55,016 

10,001 

11,318 

5,301 

9,318 

4,012 

6,816 



Popula. 



,442 268,717 



10,318 
397 

1,821 
11,143 

3,271 
11,217 

4.818 
29,718 

2,281 

3,721 



9,321 

1,742 

722 

917 

3,827 

2,724 

684 

34,000 

5.92S 

1,842 



35,665 


Pinar del Eio . . . 


1.500 


20,049 


San Cristobal.. . 


270 


10,239 


Bahia-Honda... 


570 


38,192 


Guanajay ...... 


3,000 


24,193 


S. Antonio Abad 


2.890 


147,360 


Habana 


125.905 


13,755 


Santiago 


2,274 


20,501 


Bejucal 


2,264 


18,816 


Guanabacoa 


8,100 


20,033 


Eosario 


450 


37,574 


Giiines 


3.542 


20,229 


Jaruco 


611 


81,397 


Matanzas 


26,000 


86,361 


Cardenas 


6,173 


25,708 


Sagua la Grande 


2.510 


33.253 


Cienfuegos 


4,708 


39,421 


Villa Clara 


6,604 


31,850 


Trinidad 


14,119 


22,982 


Eemedios 


5,270 


37,532 


Santo Espiritu . . 


9,982 


764,610 






46.532 


Puerto Principe. 


26,648 


4,860 


Nuevitas 


820 



6.361 Tunas 2,004 

19.381 Manzanillo 3,050 

26,525 Holguin 3,754 

24,662 Bayamo 5,875 

11,723 Jiguani 950 

85,242 Cuba 24,253 

9,783 Guaso 863 

9,381 Baracoa 2,400 



Total 23,145 104,537 78,205 61,708 244,450 

Western Depart. 24,133 397,451 9S,442 268,717 764,610 Habana. 

Eastern Depart. 23,145 104,537 78.205 61.708 244 450 Cuba. 

Grand Total . 47.27S 501.9S8 176,647 330.425 1,009.060 



Statistics of Cuba. 119 



POPULATION— 1775-1851. 

rpnmia White Persona. Free Col. and Black. 

JET 96,440 30,847 44,333 171,629 

; 79 1 . _ - - 272,140 

ISll^Umat'e)'.:.:... 274,000 140,000 212,000 626 000 

1817 ..290,021 115,691 225,26S 630,980 

1825 (estimate) 325,000 130,000 260,000 715,000 

182 7 311,051 106,484 286,942 704,487 

1841 ... 418,291......... 152,838 436,495 .1,007,624 

1S46 1". .. 425,767 149,226 323,759 898,752 

1S49 457,133 164,410 323,897 945,440 

1S5 3 ".'.'.'.' 501,988 136,647... 330,425 1,009,060 

Absolute and Relative Movement. 



Tears. 
1775-1791.. 


. Absolute incr. 100,520.. 


Incr. per 


cent 


. 58.5.. 


Annual incr. 


per cent. 3.7 


1791-1811.. 


« 


« 353,860.. 


" 


" 


130.0.. 


M 




" 6.5 


1811-1817.. 


" 


" 4,980.. 


" 


" 


0.8.. 




" 


" 0.1 


1817-1825.. 


" 


" 84,020.. 


" 


it 


13.3.. 


" 




" 1.7 


1825-1 827.. 


« 


deer. 10,513., 


. Deer. 


" 


1.5. 




deer. 


" 0.7 


1827-1841.. 


« 


incr. 303,137. 


, Incr. 


" 


43.1. 




mcr. 


" 3.1 


1841-1846.. 


" 


deer. 108,S72. 


. Deer. 


l( 


10.2. 


« 


deer. 


" 2.0 


1846-1849.. 


a 


incr. 46,688. 


. Incr. 


" 


5.2. 


" 


mcr. 


" 1.7 


1849-1853.. 


" 


" 63,620. 


. " 


" 


6.7. 


. 




" 1.7 



TOWNS OF 1,500 INHABITANTS AND UPWARD. 

Cities, etc. Pop. 1841. Fop. 1846. T °, V ' l T"- 

Habana 137,49S 106,96S 125,90o 

Puerto Principe 24.034 19,168 26,648 

Matanzas 18,991 16,936 26.000 

Cuba 24,753 26J3S 24,253 

Trinidad 12,718 13,222 14,119 

Santo Espiritu 9,484 7,424 

Guanabacoa — 6 ' 519 

VillaClara 6,132 5,837 6,604 

Cardenas 1,828 3,103 6,173 

Bayamo 7,480 4,778 5,873 

Eemedios 4,313 4,106 5,270 

Cienfuegos 2,437 4,324 4,708 



9,9S2 
6,519. .* 3.100 



Holguin , 



;,065 3,754 

GuinesV. 2,515.'. 2,612 3,542 

Manzanillo 3,299 8,780... 

Guanaj ay . . . 
San Antonio 

Sagua 

Baracoa 2,605 1,853 2,400 



3,000 
2890 
2.510 



Santiago 

Bejucal 

Tunas 

Pinar del Bio. 



2,274 
2,264 
2.004 
1,500 



120 



Statistics of Cuba. 



RURAL ESTABLISHMENTS/ 



Haci- Inge- Cafe- 
JURISDICTIONS. endas. nios. tales 

Western Department. 



Pinar del Eio 92 

SanCrist6bal 29 

Bahia-Honda 20 

Mariel — 

San Antonio 2 

Habana 44 

Santiago 

Bejucal 2 

Guanabacoa — 

Eosario — 

Giiines 5 

Jaruco — 

Matanzas 3 

Cardenas 15 

Sagua 9 

Cienfuegos 42 

Santa Clara 12 

Trinidad '33 

Eemedios 150 

Santo Espiritu 597 



47 



229 
79 
97 
79 
40 
44 
41 



19 

. 7 

87 

139 

28 

88 

21 
49 
27 
67 
38 
1 



24 



Potre- 


Caca- 


Algodo- 


Sitios de 


: Estan- 


Ve- 


Oolme- 


ros. 


guales. 


nales. 


Labor. 


cias. 


gas. 


nares. 


180 


— 


— 


4 





2,096 


85 


177 


— 


— 


502 


_ 


879 


17 


87 


— 


— 


130 


19 


. 89 


64 


1 84 


— 


— 


1,302 


9 


_ 


22 


107 


— 


— 


1,050 


— 


14 


140 


23 


— 


— 


59 


501 


_ 


12 


111 


— 


— 


402 


79 


— 


10 


68 


— 


— 


•200 


721 


_ 


33 


29 


— 


— 


402 


_ 


4 





96 


— 


— 


1,365 


196 


21 


16 


247 


— ' 


— 


1,901 


79 


— 


31 


260 


— 


— 


930 


1 


— 


60 


271 


— 


— 


1,785 


10 


5 


37 


190 


— 


— 


1,758 


5 


_ 


7 


375 


— 


— 


1,277 


— 


— 


121 


702 


— 


— 


1,126 


2 


93 


127 


203 


— 


— 


1,524 


300 


65 


132 


338 


— 


— ' 


460 


164 


193 


42 


6S4 


2 


— 


682 


279 


83 


272 


— 


— 


— 


310 


379 


172 • 


170 



Total 1,055 1.067 620 4,433 2 



Eastern Department. 
Puerto Principe ... 1,124 

Nuevitas 97 

Tunas 8 

Manzanillo 307 

Holguin ?T 487 



Bayamo 

Jiguani 

Cuba 

Guantanamo 
Baracoa 



252 
110 
133 



91 

16 
3 

29 
173 
.26 

27 
112 

14 



510 



21 — 



17,169 2,744 3.714 1, 



602 


— 


— 


42 


701 


129 


39 


29 


— 


— 


— 


102 


14 


13 


14 


— 


— 


32 


100 


31 


US 


18 


— 


2 


898 


624 


8 





60 


— 


. — 


4,102 


3,915 


1,160 


116 


78 


— 


— 


90 


1,265 


210 


430 


65 


— 


— 


1 


1,124 


69 


78 


111 


2 


— 


739 


403 


2,418 


21 


18 


— 


4 


40 


78 


215 


13 


— 


9 


218 


260 


10 


11 


_ 



Total 2,606 493 598 695 11 224 6,204 8,322 4,265 



Western Depart. ..1,055 1,067 620 4,433 
Eastern Depart. . . . 2,606 493 598 695 



2 — 17,169 2,744 3,714 1,398 
11 224 6,204 8,322 4,265 886 



Grand Total.... 3,661 1,560 1,218 5,128 13 224 23,373 11,066 7,1)79 2,284 



* For explanation of the provincial terms under this head refer to page 57. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 113 

reason this mediterranean city is named Santa Maria del Puerto del 
Principe, and its inhabitants are termed Camagueyanos.. 

San Juan de los Remedios was founded in 1545, at a town called 
Sabana, situated on a key, for which reason the term cayo is applied to 
the present town. 

Guanabacoa was an Indian town where, in 1554, the Indians wander- 
ing about the country were ordered to reside, and which in 1743 ob- 
taiued the title of villa. The other remarkable event during the admin- 
istration, of Velasquez was the erection of Baracoa into a city and 
bishopric in 1518, as the first town of the island, these distinctions being 
transferred to Santiago de Cuba in 1522. Velasquez died in 1524, in 
which year negroes were introduced to aid the Indians in their labors. 
The Spaniards then employed themselves chiefly in working the Cobre, 
Escambray, Jobabo and other mines, which, up to 1534, had yielded 
$260,000 of gold ; in cultivating the soil and raising cattle. 

The first government concession for an ingenio, or sugar estate, was 
made in 1535, and in the same year another was authorized near the 
Cerro (Havana) ; but the first known to have been established were — one 
at Guaicanama. (now Regla) in 1598, and others at Cidra and Canimaf 
in 1669. 

The sugar-cane was first introduced by Columbus from the Canaries 
into St. Domingo, on his second voyage, of the kind called cana criolla, 
or de la tierra. That of Otaheite was introduced in 1795, by Don 
Francisco Aran'go. In 1826 the striped and crystalline 1 were brought 
from New Orleans ; the purple, native of Java, having been introduced 
previously. 

The territory of the island was at first distributed by the governors 
in assignments to the colonists, such as Cortes, las Casas, Vasco Por- 
cayo, etc. ; but the greater part in grants, under the denomination of 
mercedes, by the corporations of the towns. These mercedes were ob- 
tained on solicitation, the use of the land only being granted, and their 
extent was two leagues radius for hatos and haciendas for cattle breed- 
ing, and one league radius for sitios or eorrales, or estates for raising 
swine, whence arose the circular form of such hatos and eorrales. The 
first merced was granted for the hacienda Manicaragua in 1536, and 
farther grants were prohibited in 1729. 

The first invasion of pirates, called buccaneers or fillibusters,* took 
place in 1538, when they reduced Havana to ashes. Governor Hernando 
de Soto went to assist the besieged on this occasion, leaving, as his lieu- 

* From fly-boat : and buccaneer, from doitcan, to make jerked beef, which they 
did, of the cattle obtained in their excursions. 



114 Cub 



a : 



tenant in Cuba, his wife, Dona Ines de Bobadilla, in conjunction with Juan 
de Rojas. He immediately after commenced to build the castle De la 
Fuerza, which he finished in 1544, thereby- conferring more importance 
on the port of Havana, and inducing vessels bound for Mexico to touch 
there. The island was constituted a captain-generalship in 1589, when 
the authority was vested in Field-marshal Juan de Tejeda. 

The first sugar-cane plantations of any note were established in the 
vicinity of Havana in 1580. Of the cultivation of tobacco in the Vuelta- 
Abajo, the earliest record is in 1719, a great deal being raised at San- 
tiago de las Vegas about the middle of the last century. 

The pirates successively invaded Puerto Principe, Trinidad, San Juan 
de los Eemedios, Manzanillo, and Cuba. In the attack on Manzanillo 
in 1604, the pirate chief, Giron, passed to the town of Yara, and took 
prisoner Bishop Fray Juan de las Cabezas Altamirano, who was after- 
ward ransomed with 200 ducats, hides, and other goods, and his deten- 
tion revenged by the Bayamese, who captured the pirate in an ambush, 
and executed him. 

Third Epocls.— Organization : 1607-1762. This period was com- 
menced by the division of the island into two governments. Piratical 
invasions continued, the most remarkable being that of Olonois, who 
murdered 90 men sent out 'in a vessel against him ; Morgan, who sacked 
Puerto Principe ; and the invasion by Lord Windsor, who, in 1662 (a 
■century before the capture of Havana by the British), attacked Santi- 
ago de Cuba, destroying the sumptuous edifice called Alto de Osuna, and 
blowing up the Morro Castle ; and finally, that of Vernon, who landed in 
the harbor of Guantanamo (which he named Cumberland), in 1741, and 
attempting to attack Cuba, was repulsed, and forced to re-embark with 
great loss. In 1693 Matanzas was founded on the site of the Indian 
town of Yucayo, and for the purpose 30 families were brought from the 
Canary Islands, during the governorship of Manzaneda. In 1722 ship- 
building for war purposes was commenced at Havana, upward of 125 
ships having been built at the end of that century, viz., 6 three-deckers 
(2 of 120 guns each) ; 21 ships of 70 to 80 guns ; 26 of 50 to 60 ; 14 
frigates of 30 to 40 ; and 58 smaller vessels. In 1728 the first coffee 
estate was established in the district of Ubajay, with the seed brought 
from St. Domingo by Don Jose Gelabert, for the purpose of making 
rum. This plant was not, however, extensively cultivated till the end 
of the last century, when the French emigrants from St. Domingo 
settled in the island. 

Printing was introduced into Cuba in 1695, and perhaps earlier 
into Havana. The Royal University was also founded during this 
epoch. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 115 

Fourth Epoch* — Civilization : 1762-1801. The social progress of 
the island dates chiefly from the capture of Havana by the British, 
when the supreme government recognized the importance of the terri- 
tory. The said siege and capture of Havana occurred in 1762, in the 
reign of Charles III., and during the captain-generalship of Don Juan 
del Prado y Portocarrero. The 6th of June of that year a British 
squadron composed of some 200 vessels (including 24 ships of the line 
and 24 frigates) and 18,000 men, under Admiral Sir George Pococke, and 
conveying 14,000 troops under the Earl of Albemarle, laid siege to the 
city. Notwithstanding the unprepared state of the place, and the small 
force defending it (about 4,000 troops), the invaders met with a heroic 
resistance, especially from the Morro Castle, which was finally taken by 
storm, through a breach made by the enemy, the 80th of July. The 
British took possession of the place the 14th of August, under capitula- 
tion, and on the following day the nine Spanish ships "in port were de- 
livered to them, three others (Asia, Neptuno, and Europa) having been ,J 
sunk at the mouth of the port to close it. The possession of the invad- \ 
ers, however, did not extend farther than Matanzas and Mariel. 
Among the Spaniards who distinguished themselves on this occasion, 
history makes especial mention of Don Luis Vicente Velasco, colonel in 
the navy and governor of the Morro, who valiantly defended his post 
until struck down by a bullet in the chest, and expired 24 hours after 
with the fortitude of a hero ; his lieutenant, Marquez Gonzales, who lost 
his life in the action ; Don Luis Aguilar and Don Kafael de Cardenas, 
who defended the fort of Chorrera until commanded to abandon it, and 
then captured the heights of Taganana, which were fortified by the 
enemy ; Don Alejandro Arroyo, Don Francisco del Corral and Don 
Manuel Frias, who boldly assaulted the trenches of La Cabana ; Chacon, 
Lujan, Zaldivar, Ruiz (who perished in an assault), and the country- 
man from Guanabacoa, Don Jose Antonio Gomez (known as Pepe An- 
tonio), who, after performing prodigies of valor, perished miserably. 
The British continued in possession only a year, as, in consequence of 
the treaty of peace concluded at Paris between England, France, and 
Spain, the 10th of February, 1763, it was restored to Spain in exchange 
for the Floridas ; Count de Ricla, commissioned from Spain to take pos- 
sion, arriving the 30th of July following, bringing 2,000 troops under 
General the Count O'Reilly. 

During this period there was some immigration from Florida, and (in 
1795) from St. Domingo, and mostly French ; the former introducing the 
Castilian bee, producing white wax, and the latter extending the culti- 
vation of coffee. The Intendancy and the Commandancy of Marine were 
instituted ; the island was divided into two bishoprics, -and in 1800 the 



116 Cuba: 

Royal Court of Judicature (jludiencia) was transferred from St. Do- 
mingo to Puerto Principe, where it continued until 1853. Improvements 
were made in the ecclesiastical department and the police regulations ; 
the streets were named and lighted, and houses numbered ; theatres and 
public walks were established ; newspapers* and books were printed ; 
economical societies, public libraries, almshouses, and asylums, and the 
Junta de Fomento (formerly Consulado) were instituted ; scientific ex- 
ploring expeditions through the island were undertaken, steam-engines 
introduced, etc. 

Fifth Epoch.— Prosperity : since 1801.— During this period the island 
has increased in wealth and importance to such a degree that it takes a 
very prominent position among the countries of the world. Its prog- 
ress is chiefly due to free trade; initiated in 1778, and extended from 
the commencement of the present century. The reverberatory appara- 
tus for making sugar was introduced in 1801. The archbishopric and a 
great number of curacies were established. Vaccination introduced by 
Dona Maria Bustamente, who brought an inoculated infant from Porto 
Rico in 1804. The arrival of a multitude of emigrants from the dis- 
senting Spanish- American countries. The large donations made by the 
inhabitants to Spain during the French invasion. The declaration of 
freedom of forests and plantations in 1815. The monopoly of tobacco 
abolished, and its cultivation, sale, and trade declared free. Slave trade 
abolished in 1817. Freedom to demolish hatos and corrales. Confirma- 
tion of grants made under the name of mercedes, 1819. The first steam- 
boat established in the same year. Philharmonic societies instituted. 
Arrival of emigrants from Florida, in consequence of its final surrender 
by Spain. Several conspiracies and invasions in 1823-24 were smothered 
and defeated, the same as more recent ones. The publication of statis- 
tical returns, and a large topographical chart of the island. Copper 
mining extended. First appearance of cholera in 1833 (and subsequently 
in 1850). Excision in Cuba, 1836. The first line of railway (from 
Havana to Bejucal), in 1837. The establishment of a junta to propose 
especial laws for the island. The installation of the Real Audiencia 
Pretoria! in 1839. The destructive hurricanes of October, 1844 and 
1846. Gas light introduced in 1846. Electric telegraph, 1852. 

Previous to free trade being declared, the expenses of the island were 
chiefly defrayed by the situados received from Mexico, while at present, 
notwithstanding the vast increase of the former, the revenue of the 
island affords a surplus of about $4,000,000. 

* The first periodical was published in 1782, under the name of Gaceta de la Tla* 
oana, and in 1793 the Papel Periodlco, afterward called Aviso, and ultimately Diario. 



Statistics of Cuba. 



121 



DISTRIBUTION OF LAND— IN CABALLERIAS.* 



Uuder Cul- 
JURISDICTIONS. tivation. 

"Western Department. 

PinardelRio 1,083 

San Crist6bal 968 

Bahia-Honda 170 

Mariel 1,938 

San Antonio 1,514 

Habana, incl. I. de Pinos 5,355 

Santiago 214 

Bejucal 1,608 

Guanabacoa 30S 

Eosario 481 

Guinea 3,215 

Jaruco 127 

Matanzas 4,450 

Cardenas 7,049 

Sagua 1,703 

Cienfuegos 1,484 

Villa Clara 767 

Trinidad 782 

Eemedios 412 

Santo Espiritu 470 

Total 34,098 

Eastern Department. 

Euerto Principe 763 

Nuevitas 172 

Tunas. : 188 

Manzanillo 260 

Holguin 989 

Bayamo * 744 

Jiguani 394 

Cuba 8,399 

Guantanamo 602 

Baracoa 1,963 

Total 14,474 

Western Department. . . 34,098 

Eastern Department . . . 14,474 

Grand Total 48,572 



Artificial 


Natural 


Mountains, 


Barren 


Grand 


Pasturage. 


Pasturage. 


Forests, etc. 


Land. 


Total. 


2,272 


17,317 


24,770 


26,536 


71,978 


190 


5,256 


5,845 


5,274 


17,533 


260 


219 


8,391 - 


5,724 


14,764 


231 


1,932 


2,608 


" 4,364 


11.073 


122 


652 


295 


416 


2,999 


150 


7,842 


967 


2,98S 


17,302 


203 


346 


2,833 


556 


4,152 


87 


854 


290 


852 


3,691 


94 


674 


656 „ 


1,497 


3,229 


85 


1,411 


1,401 


2,620 


5,99S 


309 


3.273 


9,665 


5,454 


21,916 


S8 


161 


3,992 


5,552 


9,920 


950 


4,050 


2,425 


4,735 


16,610 


1,325 


7,469 


1.082 


7,529 


24,454 


197 


3,266 


16,888 


6,322 


28,376 


2,163 


25,967 


14,959 


5,027 


49,600 


514 


14,783 


6,150 


3,855 


26,069 


1,529 


1,543 


5,325 


7,662 


16,841 


1,674 


1,748 


22,340 


21,119 


47,293 


2,740 


3,259 


43,529 


24,056 


74,054 



15,183 102,022 174,418 142,138 467,859 



658 

67 

50 

1,248 

94 

824 
50 

928 
1,118 

121 



15,183 
5.158 



3,970 

78 

10,356 

13,401 

2,574 

4,493 

1,194 

7,780 

2,004 

1,376 



45,399 
40,502 
25,636 

3,232 
27,600 
13,857 

5.897 
15,891 
17,765 

6,802 



65,713 
3,014 

16,600 
8,620 

17,651 
5,459 
6,076 

2S,598 
9,424 

18,114 



102,022 
47,226 



174,413 
202.584 



142,138 
179,269 



116,503 
43,833 
52,830 
26.761 
48,908 
25,377 
13,611 
61,596 
30,913 
28,376 



5,153 47,226 202,584 179,269 448,711 



467.S59 
448,711 



,341 149,248 377,002 321,407 916,570 



* The caballeria is equal to about 33 acres. 
6 



'*^T Statistics of Cuba. 

CHIEF AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS IN 1852. 

JURISDICTIONS fT' f° laSSeS ' Eum - Coffe ^ Wax, Honey, Totacm, 

E^lf? 41 ' 001 200 260 2,907 1,427 497 49,702 

12 ™? 1S6 ' 90 ° 14 ' 321 96 ° 29 > 508 1^1 1,601 10 3 4 

Bahia-Honda 460,428 4,384 1,500 2,801 326 370 1120 

XTL"- 1 ' 198 ' 902 48 ' 9 ° 4 3 ' 721 41 ' 804 800 793 10,80? 

pilna ^ ^ ^ 161 ' 724 4S0 ^ W 

5SS° : ' ::::::::: 16 °' 876 4 ' 1W 26 ° 113 ' 524 ^ B81 TO 

^ 6JUCa 180,996 1,900 892 70,965 290 899 500 

Guanabacoa 77,853 973 _ L 30 -,« _ 

Sf° -■■ 77 ' 548 i' 500 120 27,974 700 131 2 700 

ST,? ■ 975 ' 876 7 ' 224 -l^° 27 524 900 824 971 

S™ •• 540,724 11,500 450 50,201 399 1,380 600 

Matanzas 5,300,081 33 818 2.164 40 W 7nn ,f 



2,164 40,S29 700 1,500 

sZr" '"•'*' y,yn ' 3 ° 2 60 ' 80 ° U > m I 6 ' 124 2 > 4 °0 480 1100 

Sa S Ua 2,987,524 21,600 1.784. mt * n*r n£ 7ZZ 



Cardenas..... -.. 8 ,871,302 2T0 

21,600 1,784 467 1^077 970 s'oOl 



f ei ; fu ^ 08 1^0,024 21,310 890 _ 1312 1090 "742 

Sd^T S 5 ' 825 M4 87 ° W S 16, 

IZel S04I JJS 22 42 ' 924 81 ° ^ 3500 

h™* T .V t 520,481 4,074 875 4,784 3,288 5 347 5 994 

Sant ° E8pintU ^2,528 4,348 1,180 4,308 7,505 l^ ^ 

T ° tal 25,397,167 258,204 29,901 639,268 7^ "^794 11^07 

Eastern Department. 

ZZZT::::. Jg. ^ * - - 2 S 4 S 
Sr—. •::.•::::: S ,5 Z -„ £ gj t » 

"*"" 8M .™ 1,897 1,319 4S0 44S5 S87M 14TS8 

&::::::::-■ S S wo : u 22 > 580 r 9 i;22S s ^ 

**" -» i,,bI v fr s9e7so iS ,£ fi» 

£rrr.::::- 137 1o 4 » ™ TS, 8 w « 8 " 

_ _^ 80 10 9,821 400 160 2,845 

T ° taI 3 ' 767 ' 469 8 » 9 81 9,510 527,635 l^Ol ^81~ 108,-613 

Western Department 25,397,167 258,204 29.901 639,268 49,602 42,794 113 407 

Eastern Department ^767469 8,981 9,510 527,635.25,301 63.381 Liol 1,613 

GrandT ° taI 29 ' 1 65 ^36 267 ,185 39,411 1,166,903 "7^ 106^5 ^020 

» SJS^S 1849 ^ f Zr lnCiP&l C ° PPer m, ' neS ° f the Del Cobre dist »^ produced 
S .1 7',r m 1852 tQey Pr ° dUCed ° nIy 17 'U 7 tons - Nue ^ in 1862 ex- 

ported 51 tons of that ore ; and in the present year, 1853, the mines of Vuelta Abafo 
are producing considerable quantities. Vuelta-Abajo 



Statistics of Cuba. 



123 



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124 



Statistics of Cuba, 



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Statistics of Cuba. 



125 



QUANTITY OF SUGAR EXPORTED, 1791-1850. 



Years. Arrobas. 

1791 1.360.224 

1792 1,165.66-4 

1793 1.347.520 

1794 .'.... 2,458,064 

1795 1.241,128 

1796 2.040,120 

1797 2,003,192 

179S 2,272.008 

1799 2.763,768 

1800 2,3S7.6SS 

1801 2,671,592 

1802 3,384.600 

1S03 2,642,S24 

1804 3,217,416 

1805 2,906,838 



Quinquennial 

Periods. Arrobas. 

1791-1795 1,514.520 

1796-1 S00 2,293.855 

1801-1805 2.964.654 

1806-18 10 3,020,240 





Arrobas. 


1806... 


.. 2,61S.296 


1807... 


.. 3,014,488 


1808. . 


.. 2,120,136 


1S09 . . . 


.. 4,081,112 


1810... 


.. 3.267,168 


1811... 


.. 2,6S9J76 


1812... 


.. 2.144,240 


1813... 


.. 3,018,704 


1814... 


.. 8.060.532 


1S15... 


.. 8.580.504 


1816... 


.. 3.3S5.92S 


1817... 


.. 3.569. 2S0 


1618... 


.. 3.592.1S4 


1819... 


.. 3.434,190 


1820... 


. .. 3,947,624 



Years. 




1821... 


.. 4. 


1822... 


. . 4. 


1S23... 


.. 5. 


1824... 


. . 4. 


1825... 


.. 4. 


1826... 


. . 6, 


1S27... 


. . 5 


1828... 


.. 5. 


1829... 


.. 6, 


1S30... 


.. 7, 


1831... 


.. 7, 


1S32... 


.. 7. 


1833... 


.. 7, 


1S34... 


.. 8. 


1835.. 


.. 8 



Arrobas. 
34S.S40 
910,S56 
781,682 
986.264 
.498,939 
,237,390 
87S.924 
.967,066 
,588.428 
,S68.881 
,133,381 
.583 413 
,624,553 
.408,231 
.718,800 



Years. Arrobas. 

1S36 8,895.966 

1837 9.060,053 

1838 10.417,688 

1889 9,505.214 

1840 12.S63.S56 

1841 13.272912 



1S42. 
1S43. 
1844. 
1S45. 
1S46. 
1847. 
1S4S. 
1849. 
1S50. 



13.0S2.2S8 
14,225.660 
16,153.052 
7,604,580 
15.803.SS4 
2u.396.976 
19.659.4S8 
17,598,144 
19,993.SoS 



Quinquennial Average. 

Quinquennial 

Periods. Arrobas. 

1811-1815 2,S9S,751 

1816-1820 3.611,641 

1S21-1S25 4.905.316 

1S26-1S30 6,50S,137 



Quinquennial 

Periods. Arrobas. 

1831-1835 7.893,575 

1S36-1840 10,148.555 

1841-1845 12,S67.69S 

1S4G-1850 18,690,460 



RUM, COFFEE, 

Bum, 

Years. pipas _ . 

1S26 2.597... 

1S27 2,457... 

1828 2.S64... 

1829 4,518... 

1SS'» 5.594... 

1S31 3,838... 

1832 3,423... 

1833 3,227... 

1S34 3.648... 

1835 5,815... 

1836 3,888... 

1S37 3,450... 

1S3S 5,408... 

1839 8,219... 

1840 10,209... 

1841 ll,3o2... 

1S42 10.227... 

1848 13^10.. 

1844 6?26... 

1S45 4.120... 

1S46 9,032... 

1847 19,432... 

1848 16.339.. 

1849 11.640... 

1850 11,825.. 



TOBACCO, ETC., EXPORTED 1826-1850. 



Quinquennial 

Periods. 
1826-1880.. 

1831-1835.. 
1836-1840.. 

3841-1845.. 



Molasses, 
Boca yes. 

68,880.... 
74.083... 
86.891..., 
63,537... 

66,218... 

83.001... 
100.17S... 

95,768... 
104.213... 
109.233... 
109,549 . . . 
114.975... 
134.802... 
136.447... 
146.464... 
131.390... 
119.138... 
191.093... 
172,431... 
121.322... 
203.597... 
252. S40... 
228.726... 
246.570... 
, 269,044... 



1.773,798. 
2.001.5S4. 
1,284,088. 
1.736.258. 

1.798.598. 
2.180.5S2. 
2.048,890 . 
2.566,359. 
1,817.315. 
1,416.015. 
1.610,441. 
2.133.568. 
1.550.341. 
1.950 809. 
2,143.574. 
1.285.006. 
1.998.S46. 
1.631.782. 
1,240.032. 

559.322. 

817.662. 

932,154. 

694.137. 

877.137. 

520.134. 



Wax, 

Arrofris. 

22,918. 



21,404. 

23,482. 

3S,740. 

29.S50. 

30.203. 

41.536. 

35.25S. 

31,064. 

2S.259 

39.264. 

28.296. 

30.815. 

26.132. 

32.024. 

83.3S4. 

4S.101 . 

84,276. 

89.251 . 

41.716. 

51,995. 

50.110. 

35.691. 

58,194. 



Quinquennial Average. 



Bum, 
Pipas. 
8,606.. 

3.991... 
6.235.. 
9.157.. 



1846-1850 13,653. 



Molasses, 
Bocoyes. 
71.921. 
98,47S. 

12S.447. 

147.074. 

2 10,155 



Cofl'ee, 
Arrobas. 
1.718.865., 
1,995,832.. 

1.877.444.. 

1.832.997., 

768,244. 



"Wax, 
Arrobas. 

25 7S9 . . . 
33 5S2... 
32,253... 
37,4o7... 
48,141... 



Tobacco, 
Arrobas. 

79,5S1 . . . 

79,106... 

70,031... 
125.502... 
160,358... 
117.454.. 

76,430 . . . 

92,476... 

87,154... 

125.303.. 

22S,519.. 

179,503.. 

194,799.. 

204,947 . . 

169.671.. 

230,3o3.. 

237.713.. 

230,303.. 

237,713.. 

2SS,329.. 

353.041.. 

. 372,780.. 

. 251,025.. 

, 160,765.. 

. 319,125.. 



Tobacco, 
Arrows. 

102.915. 
99,763. 
195.487. 
244.S72. 
291,347. 



Cigars, 

Libras. 

. 197,194 

. 167.362 
. 210.335 
. 243.-443 
. 407,153 
. 331.433 
. 44S.123 
. 617.713 
. 616,020 
. 346,675 
. 51S.443 
. 792.438 
. 916 406 
. 874,258 
. 849.824 
. 850.856 
. 751 445 
. 1,289.985 
. 792.525 
. 1,022.525 
, . 766.782 
,. 1,224.060 
. . 807.400 
.. 61S.600 
, . 1,063.200 



Cigars, 
iAbnts. 

245.097 
471.993 

790.2S5 
941.467 
896,008 



126 Statistics of Cuba. 



COPPER EXPORTED— 1841-1850. 



Years. Quintals. 

1841 693,060 

1842 784,971 

1843.. 768,650 

1844 2,003,587 

1845 869,922 



Quinquennial average 624,C 



Years - Quintals. 

1846 635.654 

184T 565495 

1848 . 656,491 

1849 588,810 

1850 552,283 



Quin quennial average 598,647 



VALUE OF COMMERCE WITH FOREIGN NATIONS— 1850-1853. 

IMPORTATION OK SPANISH VESSELS. 
Countries. 1850. 1851. 1852. i 8 53. 

United States $40,971 $43,353 $295,935 $15,686 

England 4,073,892 5,105,634 4.272,813 4,993,511 

Erance 1,196,526 1,161,604... 1,716,301 l,73o'350 

Germany : 1,790,066 1,584,043 1,010,631 934,984 

Spanish America.... 1,638,746 2,339,360 1,750,103 1,564,029 

IMPORTATION ON FOREIGN VESSELS. 

Countries. 1S50. 1851. 1852. 1853. 

United States $6,612,2S9 $8,104,423 $6,255,350 $6,784,045 

England 2,043,776 2,269,323 1,365,910 1,202,409 

France 551,053 576,764 4S7.053 446^62 

Germany 817,227 268,582 188,371 180,955 

Spanish America .. . 302,918 420,437 394,515 116^457 

EXPORTATION ON SPANISH VESSELS. 
Countries. 1850. 1851. 1852. 1853. 

United States $S4,631 $32,774 $42,785 $60,805 

England 722,145 1,048,067 1,044,927 1,713,505 

Erance 450,139 624,126 528,856 436,140 

Germany 674,045 804,512 610.886 655,786 

Spanish America 516,683 915,940 5S0.074 454.129 

EXPORTATION ON FOREIGN VESSELS. 
Countries. 1850. 1851. 1852. 1853. 

United States $8,274,621 $13,190,080. 

England 6,338,921 c 11,829. 

France 1,412,402 839,042. 

Germany 1,197,474 1 ,437.708 . 

Spanish America 60 554 131,128 . 



12,033,623... 


.. $12,074,290 


4,441,749... 


. . 6,709,330 


984.512... 


. . 2,857,248 


1,079,279... 


818.282 


221,085... 


60.702 



Statistics of Cuba. 127 



COMMERCIAL MOVEMENT— 1826-1850. 

Ave mge Annual Average Annual Aver. Annual Value 

Quinquennial * f E rts> of Total Commerce. 



Periods 



Value of Imports. Value of Exports, 



96 1830 .- $15.412,689 $12,717,929 $2S,130,618 

f q ?1S ... 16,756,448 12.837,339 29,643,787 

ISl'l^ '.:..... 21,662,766 18,503,648 40,166,414 

^l t S45 22,472,355 24.099,646 46,572,001 

: S::::; - :: 27,150,754 *«>*» 51,979,742 



l851 ...... 32,315,145 31,349,357 63,665,102 

REVENUE OF THE ISLAND— 1826-1850. 

Maritime Revenue. Internal 
__^_ ■ , Revenue. 



Imports Exports. Total. Total. 

S>6 ...$3,782,409 $901,343 $4,683,753 $2,414,182 

;«„ 4,412.963 1,246,916 5,659,879 2,810,094 

till 4,194,495 1,114,641 5,309.136 3,777,270 

1S29 '.'. 3,938,596 1.255.371 5,193,967 3,94S,642 

\lZ "..3,636.716 1,390,379 5,027,095 3,945,452 

ISl "" ' 3,932,505.. 852,959 4,795,465 3,5:Jl,,739 

lit 3,880,103........ 912.074 4,792,178 3,645.228 

.La" 4208.706 1.026,664 v . 5,235,371 3,660.185 

tToA 4 40^314 692,974 5,098,283 3,847,446 

™ 4 791777 ... 634,256 5,426,033 3,371,149 

™Z 5017!21T 726,576 5,743,793 3,523,472 

Joo? 4W,780 811.995 5,S09.775 3,027.390 

™ 5 246,008 852,246 6,098.254 3,574.459 

]tZ" 6,113,508 1,249,570 7,363,07S 8,841,856 

1840 '.5,951,801 1,435,696 7,387,498....;... 4,118.804 

L„ 5,943,819 1,322.644 7,266,404 3,848,831 

84 2 6.005,633 1,377,714 7,383.346 4,2SS.626 

iq4 o ..5,398,339 1,590,677 6,9S7,017 3,407,040 

*7. 6 020,403 1,140,228 7.160 631 3,329.621 

Z* 5Wl6 574,831 5,970,743 3.221,329 

iLs 5413422 739.379 6.152,802 4,937.976 

1S 4 7 6 601,233 893,094 7.494,331 5,314 3S1 

18 4 S 6,174,533 709,325 6,SS3,S5S 6.038,715 

1849 .5,844,783 584.477 6,429,260 6,235,068 

1850 '.'.'.'.'.'. !'.".".".... 5,964,147 757,103 6,721,260 5,527,462 

Quinquennial Aver a 3 e. 

^Periods!" 111 Imports. Exports. Total. Internal. 

1826-1830 $3,933,036 $1,181,780 $5,174,766 $3,379,123 

1831-1835 4,243,681 825,T86 5,069,467 3,605,149 

1836-1840 5,465,263 1,015,216 6,4S0,480 3,617,096 

1841-1845 5,752,522 1,201,119 6,953,641 3,619,099 

1S46-1850 5,999,624 736,675 6 736,300 5,620,720 



APPENDIX 



1st. According to the general trade returns of Spain for 1849 ana 
1850, the mercantile movement of the entire peninsula in 1850 amount- 
ed to $59,295,478, exclusive of bonded goods amounting to $2,189,723, but 
including the Balearic and Canary Islands. Of that sum, $34,606,544 
was in imports and $24,688,934 in exports; and $47,949,643 in foreign 
trade, and $11,345,835 in trade with its ultramarine possessions. The 
foreign importation amounted to $29,033,807, and the exportation to 
$18,915,836. Of the trade with the distant possessions, the importation 
was $5,572,737, and the exportation $5,773,098, being a total of 
$11,345,834, of which $9,658,464 corresponds to Cuba, $909,923 to Porto 
Rico, and $777,448 to the Philippine Islands ; consequently Cuba alone 
supports nearly the whole of this trade, which may be divided thus : 

Imports. Exports. Total 

£ ,lba '- $4,537,897..... $5,120,567 $9,658464 

PortoElco 504,61S 405,305 909 923 

Philippines 530,222 247,226... 7T 7^448 

Total $5,572,737 $5,773,098 $11^835 

The comparison of the returns of 1850 with those of 1849 show a de- 
crease in the imports from Cuba and Porto Rico, and an increase in the 
exports. 

The total amount of trade of the Peninsula of Spain and adjacent 
islands is as follows : 

tt , „ . , „ Imports. Exports. Total. 

Under Spanish flag $29,193,220 $10,818,211 $40.011431 

Under foreign flag 3,700,969 11,520,780 15 221749 

Byland 1,712,355 2,349,943. 4,062,298 



Total $34,606,544 $24,638,934 $59,295,478 

The total estimated expenditure of the nation for 1853 amounted to 
$61,414,826, and the revenue to $61,629,876, of which $2,222,150 was 
to be contributed by Cuba, $300,000 by Porto Rico, and $400 000 by 
the Philippine Islands. 



Appendix. 129 

2d. Statement of production and consumption of cane-sugar, coffee, 
and tobacco on the globe.(a) 

Producers. Su S ar - Coffee> Tobacco. 

c „baa852) 6,340,554.... 184,800.... 269,000 

British West Indies (1851)(6) 3,359,214. ... - . . . . — 

British East Indies (1851) 1,T63,86T.... — .... — 

Mauritius (1851) 1,108,888.... — .-..-? 

Martinique (1851) 127,32S.... — .... — 

Guadaloupe (1851) 52,100.... — .... — 

Dutch Guiana (1S46) 300,000.... — .... — 

St. Eustatia 500.... — .... — 

Curacoa 375,000?..- - .... - 

French and Dutch possessions in America(c) .... — .... 100,000 .... — 

Danish W. I. (St. Thomas, St. Croix, and St. John) . 24,000 ? . . — . . . . — 

Brazil(d) 2,000,000.... 3,139,240.... - 

Venezuela - •••• 400,000.... - 

United States (1850)*(«) 2,441,093. ... - .(/)1,997,000 

Mexican States (1S44) 450,000.... — .... — 

Spanish Peninsula (1849) 10,000.... — .... — 

Philippine Islands 125,000.... 31,250.... 150,000 

Bourbon Island 425,512.... — .... — 

Java 100,000.... 1,250,000.... — 

SumatraEEEEEE - •••• 50,000.... - 

Sandwich Islands (1852) 52,000.... — .... — 

China, Siam, etc., in Asia 500,000.... — .... — 

Ceylon - •••• 375,000.... 



Celebes 



22,500... 



Malabar — •••• 47,500.... — 

Arabia - •••• 45,000.... - 

Hindostan — ••■• 40,0Q0.... — 

France^) - ..,■ ~ •••• 262 > 500 

Switzerland — ■••• — •••• 2 ' 750 



Pontifical States. 
Sardinia. 



17,500 
:,O0O 



Naples - .... ~ .- 15,000 

Austria and her possessions — ■_••• — •••• 375,000 



Germany 



500,000 



Holland - ..- - ••■• 50,000 

Belgium - .... - •••• ™>000 

Denmark — — 2 - 250 

Eussiat (Poland 30,000) — .... — •••• 250,000 

Wallachia — •••• — •••• ls > s50 



Total quintals 20,549,556. . . . 6,184,8 



4,051,850 



* United States crop of maple sugar in 1850, 340,000 quintals (one-third in New York 
State and one-fifth in Vermont), 
t Russia produces 522,000 quintals of cane and beet-root sugar. 

6* 



130 



Notes to Appendix. 



Consumers. Sugar.* 

England (1852) (/i)7.552,362 

France _ 2,000,000. . . , 

France and southern Europe (except Spain) 

Holland, Belgium, Germauy, Prussia, and Austria 
(including Lombardo- Venetian territory, and de- 
ducting re-exportation to Eussia, etc.), of which 

625,000 to Bremen, Hamburg, and Lubec 2,125,000 

Germany without Austria -. 

Austrian dominions 

Germany and Northern Europe,. _ 

Holland (31,250) and Belgium (45,000) — 

Trieste, Venice, etc : 625,000 

s P ain (*) • - i,ooo',ooo . . ( j 

Portugal 200,000.... 

Eussia 810,000.... 

Denmark 

Denmark and Sweden 225 000. .. 

Sweden and Norway 

Italy (exclusive of Lombardo- Venetian territory), 
Sicily, Malta, Turkey, Greece, and Levant in gen- 

eral 112,500.... 

Italy _ 

United States 4,250,000. ] '. '. 

Canada, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, etc 600,000 

Canada 



Coffee. 
375,000.. 



1,250,000. 



Tobacco. 
275,000 
350,000 



— 


... 500,000 


— 


. . . 4,250 


1,750,000 


— 


1,250,000 


. . . 76,250 


)1,500,000 


. . (&)152,S46 


— 


... 2,000 


— 


. . . 5,000 


— 


. . . 12,500 


_ 


... 22,500 



750,000 



160,000 



20,000 



Total quintals 19 499 ! 



7,035,000... 1.420.346 



NOTES TO APPENDIX. 

(a) The want of uniformity iu statistical arrangement among the few nations that 
publish such records, is a great obstacle to their usefulness. It often happeus that in 
statements of exports no mention is made whether the place has produced or merely 
exported, and we have consequently been obliged to make use of data referring to ex- 
portation, and not to production, the latter having scarcely any existence. Cuba in 
1852 appears to have produced 29,165,238 arrobas, and exported 25,362,216 arrobas. 
In 1S51 the exportation attained the enormous amount of 1,549,893 boxes, or about 
28,000,000 arrobas. 

(b) The reduction to Spanish weight has been calculated at 110.434 lbs. Spanish to 
the British cwt., and 2.173 lbs. Spanish to the French kilogramme. The production of 
Jamaica included in the above was 627,769 cwt. Said island in the four years ending 
1803 produced 135,331 hogsheads; in 1844-48, 41,872 hhds., and in the three years end- 
ing 1851, 3S,937. Its largest crop was 150,000 hhds., in 1805. {Henderson's Jamaica 
Almanac, 1S53.) British Guiana in 1852 exported 739,120 cwt. ; this colony and Bar- 
badoes being the only ones of the British possessions that do not evince decay. Ac- 
cording to official data there were in Jamaica, in 1852, 128 estates entirely abandoned 



Tropical and colonial. 



Notes to Appendix. 131 

and Tl where the cultivation of the cane had been partially relinquished. Consequently 
the situation of that island is the most wretched among all the British possessions, but 
it is yet to be seen to what point her more fortunate sisters will be able to withstand 
the equalization of duties in 1854. 
(c) Martinique produced in 1851, 110,938 kilog. of coffee, and 149,033 of cocoa. 
{d) Rio Janeiro exported during the year ending May, 1853, the amount of 1,968,625 
bags of coffee, of which 1,066,311 to the United States. In 1838 Cuba sent 33.051,061 
lbs. of coffee to the United States, while Brazil sent only '27,411,986 lbs. In 1851 Cuba 
sent to the same markets 3,099,084 lbs., and Brazil 107,578,257 lbs. (See De Bow's In- 
dustrial Eesources, etc.) 

(«) The crop of Louisiana for 1851-52 was 236,547 hhds. ; that of 1S52-53 was 321,934 
hhds. ; and that of 1S53-4 was 449,324 hhds. The quantity of molasses was 27,500,000 
gallons. This result was produced by 1,4S1 establishments, of which 943 were worked 
by steam, and 538 by horse-power. The crop of Texas in the year 1S52-3 was 11,023 
hhds., averaging 1,000 lbs. In 1S50 there was produced by Louisiana 226,001 hhds., 
South' Carolina 77, Georgia S46, Florida 2,750, Tennesse 3, Alabama 87, Mississippi 8, 
and Kentucky 10' hhds.— total of United States, including crop of Texas, 237,133 hhds., 
which, at the rate of 1,000 lbs. per hogshead, gives a total of 237,133,000 lbs., or in round 
numbers 2,370,000 quintals. The crop ending January, 1855, has exceeded all pre- 
vious ones. 

(/) According to the census of 1840 the yield of tobacco in the United States was 
2.191,633 quintals, showing a falling off of 224,177 quintals in 1850. 

(g) France— crop of beet-root sugar in 1852-53, 1,635,731 quintals. According to the 
monthly official statements published by the French government, the production of 
beet-root sugar in France from 1st September, 1S52, to 31st August of the present year, 
was 75,275,235 kilog., equal to about 400,000 boxes, and being an excess of 6,692,120 
kilog. over the crop of 1851-52; but as the latter showed a decrease of 7| millions 
kilog. on that of 1850-51, it may be considered nearly an average yield. This result 
has not corresponded with the expectations entertained during the first months of the 
crop. However, the number of establishments seems to indicate progress as it in- 
creases. There were 304 at work the 31st August, 1851, 329 at the same date in 1852, 
and the number at present is 337 * In Russia there are 3S0 manufactories of cane and 
beet-root sugar (77 of which are worked by steam), producing annually 522,000 quintals. 
We have no late statements of the production of beet-root sugar in Belgium, Prussia, 
Austria, etc., and in Great Britain it is insignificant as yet 

(h) 6,519,267 quintals British colonial sugar, and 1,033,095 foreign, 
(i) In 1852 were shipped from this island to the Peninsula 190,848 boxes of sugar. 
(?) Coffee from Cuba to Spain in 1852, 106,666 arrobas. 

(k) As follows: 8,200,000 lbs. Kentucky and Virginia, 145,814 lbs. also of Virginia, 
1,115,862 Marron-Kentucky, 14,379 Holland, 4,967,821 Philippine Islands, and 851,458 
lbs. Cuba tobacco. (See Sr. Rodriguez-Ferrer's work, El Tabaco Habano.) In 1852 
there was exported from Cuba to Spain 2,104,812 lbs. leaf tobacco, 11,247 thousand 
cigars, and 467,041 packets of cigarettes. 



• According to the official returns last published, the number of beet-root sugar manufactories in 
Prance at the" end of April last was 208, being 95 less than at the corresponding period of last year. 
The quantity of sugar made was 43,955,970 kilogrammes, being a decrease of 31,551,9-15 kilogrammes 
as compared with the same period of 1854. The amount given above for the sugar crop of Curasoa is 
much too large, in my opinion, while that of the Danish West India islands is underrated.— Translator. 



A MEMOIE 

OF 

THE ISLAND OF PORTO RICO, 

BY J. T. O'NEIL, OF ST. JOHN'S. 



PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 

The Spanish Island of Puerto Eico (Saw Juan Bautista de), the 
smallest and most easterly of the Great Antilles, and meriting, by its 
beauty and fertility, the appellation of " The Cup of Gold," bestowed 
upon it by the figurative Spaniards, is situated in the Atlantic Ocean, 
between latitudes 17° 54' and 18° 30' 40" north, and longitudes 
65° 37' 40" and 67° 16' 6" west of Greenwich. 

Relative Position.— Lying immediately west of the Virgin Islands, east 
of Cuba and Hayti (which lies between), north of the continent of South 
America, and open to the north : added to its compact form and compara- 
tively clear coasts, the island is eminently qualified for a centre of trade.* 

Extremities. — The most prominent are, Punta de San Francisco on the 
west, Cabeza de San Juan on the north-east, Cabo de Mala-pascua on the 
south-east, and Los Morrillos de Cabo Rojo on the south-west. 

Form. — Parallelogramic, and greatly resembling the trunk of an ox ; 
the headland of Cabeza de San Juan at the upper end of the neck ; 
Cabras islets and Punta Corcho, the lower ; Cabo Mala-pascua at the 
curve of the chest ; Punta Aguila and Los Morrillos de Cabo Rojo at the 
lower part of the buttock ; Punta San Francisco projecting like the 

* From the Island of Porto Eico you may escape from the region of the general or 
trade winds into that of the variables merely by steering to the north ; and as this island 
is so far to windward, it is easy to gain all the easting that is necessary for going to 
the Lesser Antilles or Caribbee Islands. Tou may gain thus to windward, and beating 
with the breeze, without being under the necessity of running into high latitudes to 
catch the variables. From this island you may on one stretch catch any point of the 
Columbian main, from La Guayra to leeward.— Blunt" a Coast Pilot. 



134 Porto Rico: 

stump of a tail ; Puntas Pena-agujereada and Bruguen, or Penas-blanoas, 
at the rump ; and Fronton de Vacia-talega and Punta Miquillo at the 
curve of the shoulder. 

Boundaries. — On the north the Atlantic Ocean ; on the north-east the 
reefy space that connects it with Culebras island (separated from the 
island of St. Thomas by a narrow passage) ; on the south-east the pas- 
sage between it and the island of Vieques ; on the south the Caribbean 
Sea ; and on the west Mona Passage. 

Neighboring Land.— The island of Hayti or St. Domingo on the west ; 
that of St. Thomas on the north-east, and that of St. Croix on the south- 
east, each of the three being distant about sixty miles. On the north 
the nearest land is the island of Bermuda, and on the south the island 
of Cura§oa and the South American continent. 

Extent. — Length from Cabeza de San Juan on the east to Punta de 
San Francisco on the west, 96 miles. Breadth from the city of St. John's 
on the north to the port of Jobos on the south, 35 miles. Mean length 
about 86, and mean breadth 34 geographical miles. 

Area.— 2,706 geographical, or 3,695 statute miles ; and adding 257 
estimated for the islands of Vieques, Culebras, Mona, etc., the total area 
is 3,865 square statute miles. 

Circumference.— About 270 miles, of which about 195 are nearly equally 
divided between the north and south coasts, and 75 between the east and 
west coasts. 

Coasts.— The coasts of the island are, in general, well defined and of 
easy access, although in some places (especially on the south-west and 
north-east) obstructed by reefs and banks of mud and sand. They do 
not contain more than seven harbors meriting the name, but there are 
many commodious bays, roadsteads, and anchorages. Vessels may run 
along either the north or south coast without risk, at a distance of three 
miles from the former, and five from the latter, taking care to avoid the 
islet of Caja de Muertos, which lies about four miles from the centre of 
the south coast. Nearer the island the north coast is rugged and un- 
even, having many rocks and keys on which the sea breaks heavily, and 
the whole south coast, from the Morrillos de Cabo Bojo to Cabo Mala- 
pascua, is of double land, and very foul, with reefs, islets, and shoals 
stretching out from it. On the east coast also are numerous islets and 
rocks, which can not be approached by large vessels, and lie between 
the island and the islets of Culebras and Vieques. Though the passages 
among these islets and rocks are generally deep, they should only be 
attempted by practiced pilots. Vessels coming from the north may sail 
round the north-west point of the island within a mile of the shore, 
and in 20 to 25 fathoms. The northernmost half of the west coast is 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 135 

pretty clear, but the southernmost is "beset by many shoals and reefs, 
which imperatively demand the erection of a light-house. 

Capes and Points.— The north-western extremity of the island is 
formed by Punta Bruguen or Borinquen (a high and steep cliff), and 
Punta de Pena-agujereada, whence, eastward, the principal ones are— 
Punta de la Isabela; Punta del Manglillo and the Morrillo de Arecibo, 
with the roadstead of Arecibo between ; Punta de Caracoles ; Puntas 
Marunguey and Lavadero, with the anchorage of Palmas Altas between ; 
Puntas°Boquilla, Puerto-nuevo, Cerro-gordo, Frailes, and Salinas, which 
last is the northern extremity of the Cabras islets, which, with the 
Morro (on which is a light), form the mouth of the harbor of St. John's ; 
Fronton de Vacia-talega, Punta Miquillo, Punta San Diego, and Cabeza 
de San Juan, the north-eastern extremity of the island. On the east 
are Puntas Marunguey and Corcho, between which are the islets of 
Palomino, Pinero, and Cabras, and the port of Fajardo; Punta de la 
Lima (northernmost point of the bay of Fajardo), and Punta de Candeleros 
(southernmost point of the bay of Humacao) , witb,Cayo Santiago between ; 
Punta de Baracoa, Fronton de Guayanes, Puntas Quebrada-honda, Ye- 
guas and Naranjo, and Cabo de Mala-pascua, which is the south-eastern 
extremity of the island. On the south are Puntas Viento and Guilarte, 
with the roadstead of Patillas between ; Punta Colorados or Figuras, and 
Punta Barrancas, with the roadstead of Guayama between ; Puntas 
Pozuelos and Colchones, with the port of Jobos between; Puntas Arenas 
and Fama, with the port of Salinas de Coamo between ; Puntas Coamo 
and Boca-chica ; Puntas Caballon and Cucharas, with the bay of Ponce 
between ; PeHon de Tallaboa ; Penon de Guayanilla and Punta Vaquero, 
with the bay of Guayanilla between ; Punta Picua and Fronton de Brea, 
with the harbor of Guanica between ; Puntas de Guanica, Salinas, isla 
de Cabras, and de la Parguera; Los Morrillos de Cabo Rojo* and Punta 
del Aguila at the south-western extremity of the island. On the west 
we Punta de Palo-Seco ; Puntas de Melones aud Guaniquilla, with the 
bay of Boqueron between ; Puntas de Pedernal and Ostiones, with the 
port of Cabo Rojo between; Punta Arenas ; Puntas de Guanajibo and 
Algarrobo, with the bay of Mayagues between; Puntns Cadena and 
Rincon, with the small bay of Rincon between, and the cape called 
Punta de San Francisco projecting a little below the north-western ex- 
tremity of the island, and between which and Punta de Penas-blancas, 
a little above, is the bay of Aguadilla. 

1 * These rest on a coral bank, close to the outer edge of which no bottom has been 
found. Two or three leagues to the eastward and westward there are 10. 12, and 15 
fathoms water. 



136 Porto Rico : 

Adjacent Islets* and Keys.— On the north, the islet of Cabrita with- 
out, and Cabras within, the entrance of the harbor of St. John's, and 
forming the west side of it. On the east, the islet of Hicacos, east of 
Cabeza de San Juan ; islet of Palominos, east of Fajardo ; islet of Pinero, 
east of Ceiba ; islets of Cabras, Cayo Algodones and Cayo Santiago ; 
islets of Culebra, Culebrilla, Culebrita, and Peluda, which are also 
known as Little Passage Islands, and extend nearly up to St. Thomas ; 
and Vieques or Crab Island, south-south-west of the former ; it is large, 
and contains a town. On the south are Cayo Berberia, islet Frio, islet 
of Caja de Muertos or Dead Man's Chest, the two islets of Canagorda, 
near the port of Guanica, and Cayo Ratones. On the west, Cayo Fon- 
duco, the islets of Mona, Monito, and Desecheo or Zacheo. 

Reefs and Snoals.— On the north coast they are not well determined, 
but do not extend far from the shore. On the east are many reefs and 
shoals stretching out between the main island and the numerous islets 
in its close proximity ; but the passages between them are deep, and 
readily made by good pilots. Those on the west coast comprise— Bajo 
Gallardo, which is about three cables length in extent, six and one-half 
miles due west (nearly) from Punta de Melones : least depth of water 
on it three fathoms, with rocky bottom : its bearings are, Zacheo, north 
by west (three-fourths west), Atalaya, south by west (three-fourths 
west), and the southern extremity of the Morrillos, east-south-east ; 
Las Coronas and Coronitas, which are shoals of sand, on which the sea 
breaks at times, and extending scarcely a mile in any direction : dis- 
tance from the coast about three and one-half miles, and bearing nearly 
south-west by south from Punta de Guanajibo, and south one-half east 
from Punta Giguera ; Bajo Media Luna, a reef about five miles, from 
the coast, two-thirds of a mile in length, north and south, and about 
two and one-half cables in breadth : the sea always breaks on it, the 
same as on three rocks distant from it half a mile east-north-east, and 
showing above water : the northern extremity of the reef is nearly south- 
west by west from Punta de Guanajibo, and south from Punta Giguera ; 
a shoal westward two miles from Punta de Guaniquilla, about two 
cables in extent, with three fathoms water on it, and a rocky bottom : 
it bears south by west (three-fourths west) from Punta de Guanajibo, 
and south three-fourths east from Punta de Giguera ; the rocky shoal 
Las Manchas, extending about three miles west-north-westerly from 
Punta de Algarrobo : there are two and one-half to four fathoms water 
on it, but vessels may pass very well between it and the shore, there 
being a good channel inside from the bay of Aiiasco ; Bajo Rodriguez, a 

* The largest islets will be especially mentioned in the sequel. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 137 

little without the line of Puntas Algarrobo and Guanajibo, and about 
half way between them : it is a rocky shoal, dry in several spots, and 
always showing itself, stretching nearly north and south, about half a 
mile long, and not much less at its broadest part : there is a passage 
through the midst of it, about north-east by east, with least depth 
of 12 feet ; a great reef stretches out from the northernmost point of 
the port of Cabo Rojo, and, doubling Cayo Fonduco, ends at Punta de 
Veras; Bajo del Negro, a very small reef, with the sea constantly 
breaking on it, about three and one-half miles from the nearest coast, 
and lying west-south-west (one-half west) from Pnnta de Guanajibo, and 
south three-fourths east from Punta Giguera ; Bajo del Negrillo, near 
the former, and smaller ; Bajo Figueroa ; and Bajo del Algarrobo, which 
is nearly bare and bold to the south-west, and on which it has been in- 
tended to erect a light. Among those on the south coast are — a shoal 
two or three miles in length, and three or four miles from the coast, and 
containing the roadstead of Guayama ; a reef near the entrance of the 
bay of Ponce ; there are also several reefs and shoals about the mouth 
of the port of Guanica, and in other parts of this coast. The number 
of shoals immediately bordering the coasts of the island is a natural 
consequence of the many rivers that empty into the sea in all directions. 

Channels. — These, with the exception of the passages between the 
immediate islets, keys, etc., are few in number, the principal one being 
Virgin's passage, between Vieques and the islets of Culebras and St. 
Thomas, in which are soundings with 20 fathoms on the west side, but 
on approaching any one of the islets it is shoaler. The currents set 
through this channel strong to the westward. 

Mountains, Valleys, and Savannas.— A range called the Sierra de 
Luquillo, rising in some places 3,700 feet above the sea, commences at 
Cabeza de San Juan, and with frequent and extensive gaps ends at the 
Silla de Caballo, south of Arecibo. Its highest point, called El Yunqne 
(anvil), near the eastern coast, is visible at a distance of 70 miles. 
Another range, called the Sierra de Cayey in its eastern part, distinct 
from the former, and almost continuous, traverses the island from east 
to west southward of the centre : it commences near Yabucoa on the 
east, and after various convolutions forks out near St. German into 
various branches extending to the coast on the west and south-west. 
The highest points of this ridge are — La Atalaya (watch-tower)* in 
Ahasco, Cerro Montuoso in May agues, Tetas de Cerro Gordo in San 
German, and El Torito in Cayey : it appears as a regular vertebra, and, 

* This is an important guiding point to navigators, being seen along the whole of 
the west coast. It is the highest of the two peaks on the highest part of the range 
near that coast, and stands south-east by east from Point San Francisco. 



138 Porto Rico : 

like the Sierra de Luquillo, throws out numerous lateral branches which 
extend to the north and south coasts, and inclose many fertile valleys 
and savannas, some of which, when viewed from the heights, afford a 
most charming prospect. The mountains are thickly wooded, and the 
source of a multitude of streams. 

Rivers.— The number of streams watering the island is exceedingly 
great, rendering irrigation unnecessary except on the south side, where 
drought is most prevalent. Besides upward of 1,200 brooks— the ma- 
jority permanent and suitable to the purposes of life— and numerous 
smaller streams, there are 51 rivers emptying into the sea. Several of 
them are navigable by small craft for some six miles from their mouths, 
such as the Loiza, Toa, Bayamon, Manati, Arecibo, and Anasco. The 
greatest are— the Rio Grande de Loiza, which rises in Cerro Gordo, 
south of the town of Hato-Grande : flows northward, winding to the 
east and west, traverses the districts of Caguas, Gurabo, Trujillo-Alto, 
and Trujillo-Bajo, and, after receiving various rivers and a great num- 
ber of brooks in its course, empties into the sea near Loiza ; the Rio de 
Anasco, which rises on the north of Sierra de Cain, in San German, runs 
north-west and west, and, enlarged by many tributaries, empties into 
the sea at Anasco-; and the Rio de la Plata, which rises in Cerro Pelado 
in Cayey, runs north, with many convolutions, to the east, south, and 
west, takes the names of Caribe, Grande, Vegas, Cayey, and La Plata 
near Aibonito, traverses the districts of Cayey, Aibonito, Cidra, Sabana 
del Palmar, Naranjito, Toa-Alta, Toa-Baja, and Dorado, and, after 
having received, like the others, a large number of rivers and brooks 
in its course, disembogues in the sea with the name of Toa, at Boca- 
Habana, on the north of Toa-Baja. 

Water-Falls. — There are few in the island, and none deserving of 
especial notice. 

Lagoons*— There are several lagoons bordering the coasts, the prin- 
cipal ones being — Laguna de Penones, east of St. John's, and formed by 
the sea ; Laguna de Tortuguero, north-north-east of the town of Manati ; 
Lago Joyuda, south-south-west of Mayagiies ; Laguna de Guanica, 
north-north-west of the port of Guanica : it is extensive, and abounds 
in ducks and fish. 

Swamps. — Cienaga Salitrales, in the south-western extremity ; Cien- 
aga del Flamenco, east of Guanica ; and Cienaga de Augustin, east of 
Humacao, are the most extensive. 

Salt Ponds.— The principal ones are— Salinas de Palo-Seco, also called 
de la Sierra de Penones, near the Morrillos de Cabo Rojo, on the south- 
west coast ; and Salinas de Coamo, toward the centre of the south coast. 
There is besides a bed of fossil- salt at Isabela, on the north coast. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 139 

Harbors, Bays, Roadsteads, etc. — The chief ones on the north coast, 
which is not much indented, are — the spacious and well-sheltered har- 
bor of St. John's, the roadstead of Arecibo, the anchorage of Palmas- 
Altas, and the small bays of Toa, Cangrejos, and Boca-Vieja. On the 
east — Ensenada-Honda (a fine harbor), the port of Fajardo, and the 
bays of Naguabo, Humacao, and Ensenada de Majagua. On the south — 
the first-rate harbor of Guanica, the good ones of Salinas de Coamo and 
Jobos, the bays of Guayanilla, Ponce, and Puerto Aguirre, and the 
roadsteads of Guayama and Patillas. On the west — the bays of Agua- 
dilla, Bincon, Anasco, Mayagiies, and Boqueron ; and Puerto JReal de 
Cabo Rojo, an excellent harbor. Those of Guanica and Ensenada-Honda 
ore the finest harbors in the island. There are, besides, numerous creeks, 
coves, and small estuaries. 

Currents. — The currents set from east to west, as usual in the tropics, 
although under certain positions of the moon they are reversed ; but , 
this point has not been well determined. Their mean velocity is about 
half a mile an hour. 

Climate* — The climate is warm and moist, but salubrious, except in 
low and marshy places. The extremes of temperature on the plains are 
about 62° and 95° Fahrenheit, but it must be several degrees cooler on 
the highlands, especially the mountainous regions north and east. 
The atmosphere is very humid, but least so on the south side. No hy-" 
grometric nor rain-gauge observations are recorded.. The wind generally 
blows from the east and north-north-east, except from November to 
March, when northers prevail, though seldom with great violence ; and 
during the wet season it often blows from the south-east. The land 
breeze is light and fitful. Whirlwinds sometimes occur during the dry 
season, but seldom strong enough to occasion much damage. 

The period wherein a hurricane may be looked for extends from July 
to October (the great one of Santa Ana occurred the 26th of July, 1826, 
and the almanac, though usually fallacious in this respect, predicts one 
the 10th of October of the present year, 1855). These fearful visita- 
tions appear to be much less frequent than in former times, when a vio- 
lent gale was almost of annual occurrence ; the losses (and there was 
little to lose in those days) sometimes exceeding $500,000, besides 7,000 
houses demolished or seriously damaged, numberless cattle and poultry 
destroyed, cultivated fields entirely denuded, large portions of forest up- 
rooted, and upward of 1,500 persons killed or wounded. Since 1837 
(August 2d) , when upward of thirty large vessels were wrecked in the 
close harbor of St. John's, and proportionate damage done throughout 
the north coast, both on sea and land, hurricanes have been unfrequent 
and light. They are especially afflictive to the peasantry, whose " staff 



140 Porto Rico: 

of life" is the plantain tree, so readily prostrated by the gale. The 
wind on such occasions seems to blow from nearly every quarter at the 
same time, and comes in gusts or waves, but its maximum intensity for- 
tunately lasts little more than an hour. Hurricanes are often imme- 
diately succeeded by slight shocks of earthquake. Dew falls very co- 
piously throughout the year, especially on clear nights, which are the 
most numerous. Fogs are rare. The year may be divided into two sea- 
sons—the wet and the dry, or summer and winter— the first never so op- 
pressive as in more northerly countries, and the last somewhat similar to 
the autumn of the south of Europe. The rainy season usually lasts from 
July to January, with occasional dry spells of several weeks. Some 
years the rain pours down in torrents for several hours on many succes- 
sive days, and streams that were insignificant before become raging tor- 
rents, overflowing the land, and carrying every thing before them. A 
flood in 185 1 was preceded by three days of continuous rain. Almost every 
part of the island suffered from it ; a number of lives were lost, thou- 
sands of cattle destroyed, bridges and houses swept away, and entire 
cane-fields swept bare. The south side is subject to drought, and is the 
only part of the island where irrigation is used. The loftiest mountain 
peaks are said to be sometimes capped with snow. Hail-storms are unfre- 
quent. About the breaking up of the dry season violent thunder-storms 
occur, and silent lightning is frequent during the evenings of June, 
July, and August. Meteors are often seen, and the aurora borealis is 
sometimes visible. The sea about the coasts, as usual in the tropics, is 
highly phosphorescent, especially in summer, and long luminous belts 
(cestus veneris) are occasionally observed in the harbors and bays. 
Slight shocks of earthquake, or rather earth-tremor, being entirely su- 
perficial, and apparently caused by a sudden electric discharge from the 
earth, often accompany the first rain after long drought. 

Diseases.— The most prevalent during the dry season are— common 
catarrhal affections, epidemic influenza, under a new form every season, 
whooping-cough, attacking even adults, light and intermittent fevers,' 
and rheumatism. Consumption also has its victims. During the months 
of hot and rainy weather— hepatic affections, intermittent, bilious, 
typhus, and brain fevers, derangement of the digestive organs, small- 
pox, and erysipelas. Yellow fever visits the island only at intervals of 
several years, and soon subsides, rarely attacking any but the unaccli- 
mated. Although Asiatic cholera has raged so fiercely in nearly all the 
West India islands, including St. Thomas, which is so near to Porto Rico, 
the latter is yet a stranger to the disease. Among chronic diseases are- 
dropsy, hydrocele (very common), and gravel, and the great and per- 
manent swelling of one or both legs, known to the faculty as elephant- 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 141 

iasis, or Barbadoes-leg, is frequently encountered, especially among 
colored people. A few cases of goitre exist, but no scrofula, although 
leprous affections are sometimes met with. There are several complaints 
peculiar to the negroes— one proceeds from eating earth, and another is 
called yaws. It is somewhat remarkable that ophthalmia does not pre- 
vail at St. John's, where all the buildings are whitewashed outside, and 
reflect the sunlight most dazzlingly. Instances of great longevity are 
numerous in the island, especially in the interior, and several might be 
enumerated where the "span of life" has extended over one and a 
quarter centuries. Generally speaking, the women seem to live longer 
than the men. 

Animals. —Quadrupeds.— The variety is small, and the only indigenous 
one is the jutia, seldom met with. Horned cattle, horses, and swine are 
extensively raised. Oxen are generally lean, but the beef of those ex- 
ported is excellent, although that consumed in the island, being badly 
slaughtered, and usually of old and hard- worked subjects, is tough and 
dry. They are still much used in the sugar-cane mills, and almost ex- 
clusively for drawing carts. Their price ranges from $20 to $40, those 
trained to draught commanding the highest rate. They are invariably 
yoked by the forehead. Cows afford very good milk, yet the butter and 
cheese is poor (doubtless from improper manipulation), and far from 
sufficient to the consumption. Veal is rarely eaten. The horses are of 
the Andalusian breed (originally Arabian). They are generally small, 
but finely formed, mettlesome, and swift, and remarkable for the am- 
bling gait called paso, so agreeable to the rider, while rapid. Those 
used by the peasantry in their journeys are undersized, lean, and rough, 
but exceedingly endurant of fatigue, and independent of grooming : 
$1,000 is sometimes paid for a racer, but very good traveling horses may 
be had for $150 to $300, and baggage carriers at from $30 to $60. 
Private carriages are usually drawn by American horses, imported ex- 
pressly at a cost of $200 to $400 (duty paid), or purchased of an occa- 
sional circus company. Asses and mules are not much used, and conse- 
quently scarce. Hogs in the rural districts feed chiefly on the berry of 
the royal palm. The pork is lean but well flavored, and generally con- 
sumed in the fresh state, no hams nor bacon being prepared from it. 
Wild hogs are met with in the district of Naguabo. Sheep and goats 
are few, the flesh of neither being much used. "As happens throughout 
the tropics, the wool of the first is substituted by short coarse hair, like 
that of the second. Camels and deer have been introduced, but have 
not multiplied. There are rabbits and guinea pigs, or cavies. Hydro- 
phobia being almost unknown, dogs are allowed to multiply greatly, and 
there are numerous varieties, among which the chino, small, short-leg- 



142 Porto Rico: 

ged, and generally black, is remarkable for being entirely devoid of hair. 
Cats, rats, and mice are, almost of course, very abundant. Some of the 
first have run wild in the woods. Bats also are common. 

Birds.— Besides those usually classed as poultry, there are tame and 
wild pigeons, parrots of various size and color, turtle doves, a species of 
partridge, canaries, linnets, nightingales, cardinals, robins, woodpeck- 
ers, humming-birds, tomeguines, scarce three inches long, swallows, 
owls, widgeons, wild ducks, pelicans, sea-gulls, flamingoes, king-fishers, 
cocos, snipe, and many other. 

Beptiees.— These are few. There are no alligators, and the largest 
lizard is only about a foot and a half in length. The snakes are not 
venomous, and rarely exceed five feet in length. Small frogs and toads 
are common. 

Fish— Abound in many of the rivers, and about the coasts and har- 
bors. Among the best are the liza, or mullet, pargo, carite, viajaca, 
dajao, mojarra, king-fish, calamary, red-mullet, etc. Sharks are com- 
mon about the coasts, and the manati or sea-cow is frequently met with. 
Whales, porpoises, dolphins, etc., are often seen, and even seals sometimes 
visit the north coast. There are several kinds of shell-fish, including 
lobsters, shrimps, crabs, clams, and oysters (small, but savory, and usu- 
ally growing on the submerged stems of the mangrove bushes). Land- 
crabs {cangrejos) are numerous, and, together with the rats, do great dam- 
age to the sugar-cane. There are also sea-urchins , starfish, polypi, beau- 
tiful anemones, conches and shells in great variety, sponges, corals, etc. 
Insects— As in all warm and humid climates— are abundant. Those 
best known are— two kinds of fire-flies, bees, yielding excellent honey, 
wasps, butterflies of many kinds, cockroaches, grasshoppers, a species 
of locust, mosquitoes, sand-flies, and many other kinds of flies ; weevils, 
moths, and several species of worms destructive to grain, vegetable 
leaves, and paper ; scorpions, centipedes (both causing inflammation and 
fever by their sting) ; gongolis or millepedes, spiders, among which the 
large and hairy guabd, also called tarantula, is often fatal to cattle. 
Ants are very numerous, and the comejen will destroy the timbers of a 
house, leaving nothing but a thin outer shell. They are destroyed with 
difficulty, and only by repeatedly putting arsenic in their nests. Chigoes 
(a species of flea) are a great torment to the unshod, penetrating under 
the skin of the feet, and often rendering the negroes (especially children) 
quite lame. Fleas, lice, and bugs are plenty. There is also in the 
fields a diminutive, bright red insect called abuse, which attaches itself 
to the skin. 

Vegetables.— The island is singularly rich in vegetable productions, 
and affords an exceedingly extensive and interesting (the more because 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 143 

little explored) field for the botanist. The variety of hard wood most 
suitable for building and for cabinet work is very great. For the latter 
purpose there are none more beautiful in any part of the world Dyes 
and medicinal plants of most valuable properties abound, and the num- 
ber of distinct fruits, growing spontaneously, is truly surprising. We 
do not attempt to enumerate anymore than those most generally known 
in the island, and of the majority of these only the native nomenclature 
can be given. Among precious woods are the aceitillo or satin- wood, 
mahoo-any, ebony of several kinds, collor, walnut, palo-vacas, algarrobo 
or locust, veined, common, and red ; odorous cedar, box, laurel de llamas, 
guasima (very medicinal), sabina or savin, moca, and many others. 
Besides these, the best for building-some for solidity, others for flexi- 
bility and others again for both qualities— are the guayacan or lignum- 
vitse 'which also affords the valuable gum-guaiac; white and black 
capa', cojoba,roble or oak, maricao, ortegon, ucar; yellow, black, and 
red maga; tortugo, ausubo, higuerillo, guaraguao, espejuelo, zapote, 
jagua, granadillo, pendola, quiebra-hacha (axe-breaker), the lofty 
seiba etc There is also the fountain-tree, with a stream of pure water 
running through its tubes. The chief dyes are Brazil-wood, tumeric, 
indigo, annatto, guatapana, granadillo, mora, fustic, aroma, maricao, 
and dividivi, all of which grow wild. For tanning, the bark of the man- 
grove is excellent. Among resinous plants are that which produces the 
copaiba balsam, two kinds of tabanuco, which is very aromatic. and me- 
dicinal, and its fruit affording good food for hogs ; the male mamey, used 
in cutaneous diseases ; copey, guaiac, copal, algarrobo, and the pajml or 
cashew * Other medicinal plants comprise liquorice, tea, sage, stinking- 
weed, balsamillo, cojitre, tibey, guaco (so famous in South America as 
an antidote to the poison of serpents), vervain, cepi, higuillo, sacabuche, 
corazon, cow-itch, parietaria, senna, nigua, zarzabacoa, chicory (very 
abundant) , curia or garden balsam, violeta, cana-fistola or cassia-'lignea, 
llanten (plantago), tamarind, mallows, malagueta or pimento, panic or 
couch-grass, green-pepper, mint, purslain, chamomile, mastich, rosemary, 
sano-uinaria or knot-grass, etc. Besides these there are numerous pois- 
onous plants, such as the seed of the poma-rosa and of the sand-box tree, 
the manzanilla or manchineel-apple, the yuca when not cooked, and 
many others. The cinnamon tree and a species of nutmeg also grow in 
the island. There are several kinds of palms, including the collor, e^- 



* The nut of which (very palatable when roasted), growing attached to the pear- 
shaped, juicy and astringent, but refreshing fruit, contains a resinous oil winch, on 
application for the removal of ringworm in a certain instance, is said to have pro- 
duced an extraordinary growth of hair on the place rubbed with it. 



144 Porto Rico: 

otic date, cocoa-nut, and royal palm,* which last is doubtless the most 
valuable tree in the island, from the variety of its uses ; also the beau- 
tiful and most useful bamboo, the wild cane, various kinds of calabash, 
medicinal, and affording gourds of all shapes and sizes, from a capacity 
of seven or eight gallons to a quarter of a pint, serving the country 
people for barrels, tubs, cups and saucers, spoons, etc. ; and the guano, 
which affords a most excellent substitute for feathers in stuffing pillows 
and beds. Among fruit trees are the almond, aguacate or alligator- 
pear, also called vegetable marrow, bread-fruit, a species of chestnut, 
excellent pine-apples of two kinds, and oranges of three kinds, nispero 
or mess-apple, papaw and mango ; five kinds of plantain and banana, 
constituting the chief food of the country people ; guava of several kinds, 
cocoa-nuts, anon, corazon, two kinds of caimito, citron, shaddock, au- 
subo, several kinds of plums, two of gooseberries, dates (rare), algar- 
robo, cunde-amor, guanabana or sour-sop, guama, granadilla, pome- 
granate, hicaco, fig, cashew, jobo, jacana, jagua, jobo de la India; five 
kinds of limes and lemons, mamey, zapote, several kinds of melons, 
multas or guava-berries, pita-haya (a cactus), pepino-angolo (medici- 
nal), parcha or bell-apple, poma-rosa, tamarind, two kinds of grape, 
peanuts, etc. Strawberries have been raised in some of the mountain- 
ous districts; and on the estancia of Vives, near Ponce, are several 
apple trees producing good fruit. Many other exotic fruits might be 
raised, but this branch of cultivation is not attended to. Among escu- 
lent roots and other alimenticious plants are the yuca, which affords 
the excellent manioc bread or casabe (though the fresh juice is a deadly 
poison), and fine starch; arrow-root, several kinds of yams, potatoes, 
sweet potatoes, yautias, apio or celery, ginger, radishes, beets, turnips, 
carrots, leren, gunda, egg-plant, tayon, tayote, gumbo or ocra, cabbage, 
lettuce, asparagus, beans and peas of various kinds (some peculiar to 
the island), green-peas, tomatoes, sweet and pungent pepper, pumpkin, 
squash, etc. Eice 'and maize are produced abundantly, and cocoa is 
also raised in small quantities. Sugar, coffee, and tobacco are the chief 
productions of the island. Cotton grows finely, but of late years is little 
cultivated. There is a great variety of fibrous plants suitable for making 
paper, and the plantain-stalk affords a material equal to flax. 

Minerals. — This branch has been very little investigated, but the 

* The palm-tree is said by Kay to " supply the Indians with whatever they stand in 
need of— bread, water, wine, vinegar, brandy, milk, oil, honey, sugar, needles, clothes, 
thread, cups, spoons, basins, baskets, paper, masts for ships, sails, cordage, nails, all 
the material for their houses, etc." This variety of uses, however, is much reduced, 
and in part almost forgotten in civilized countries. The price of a standing palm-tree 
in Porto Eico is $4. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 145 

island certainly contains its full share of metallic and combustible sub- 
stances, and other valuable minerals. Gold has been found in the 
Luquillo Mountain, although a mining company, formed within the last 
two or three years, has failed of encouragement and relinquished the 
undertaking. The sands of the Luquillo River, and at the head of the 
May agues River, are auriferous. Particles of iron and steel are found 
in the vicinity of the rivers in Loiza ; pyrites and marquesites in the 
mountains of Anasco ; traces of iron, bismuth, etc., in the hills near the 
town of Mayagiies ; a bed of coal in Manati, on the lands of Mr. Kort- 
right, not worked. There are quarries of white stone in the districts 
of Ponce and Juana Diaz ; of grindstone, in La Moca ; of schistose and 
other good building stone in Cabo Rojo and Mayagiies ; of marble in 
Caguas, and masses of rock-crystal in the mountain of Mala-pascua. 
The principal salt-pits are — that of the Sierra de Penones, in Cabo Rojo, 
very productive ; the lagoon of Salinas de Coamo ; and one in Isabela, 
containing fossil salt. There are thermal and sulphurous springs in the 
district of Coamo, resorted to by invalids ; at Ponce, where the waters 
have lately begun to be used with benefit ; at Hato-Grande ; and the 
Guatemala River, in Pepino, is of thermal temperature. 

7 



146 Porto Rico : 



POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.* 

Population — According to the last census (in 1846) the number of 
inhabitants in the island was 447,914, of which 220,045 were whites 
(112,840 males and 107,205 females), and not more than ten per cent, 
of the whole were slaves. The following statement shows the steady 
increase during the- last ninety years . 

1765..44,8S3 1T87.. 98,ST7 1794. .127.133 1801. .158,051 1824. .261,268 

1778.. 66,000 1788.. 101,398 1795. .129,758 1802. .162,192 1827. .287,673 

1782. .81,120 1789.-103,051 1796. .182,982 1803. .174.902 1829. .321,661 

1783.. 87,994 1790.. 106,679 1797. .138,753 1812.. 183,014 1S30. .330,051 

1784. .91,845 " 1791. .112,712 1798. .144,525 1815. .220,892 1834. .358,836 

1785.. 93,300 1792. .115,557 1799.. 153,230 1817.. 221,772 1846. .447,914 

1786.. 96,233 1798.. 120,022 1800.. 155,426 1820. .280,622 

At the same rate (nearly 2^ per cent, per annum), the present popu- 
lation should be about 550,000> with a proportion of slaves of probably 
not more than 9 per cent., as a considerable number become free every 

* " Previous to 1776 the revenue of the island was chiefly derived from the customs 
dues on its small trade with Spain (not being allowed to trade with foreign countries), 
and nearly all the expenses of government were defrayed by the situado, or aid an- 
nually afforded by Mexico, and amounting to $4,324,498. Great, therefore, was the 
embarrassment when that supply was cut off by the insurrection, obliging the gov- 
ernment to resort to extraordinary expedients, and even to make use of the most 
sacred deposits, without, however, filling the void. The penury of the situation be- 
coming daily more aggravated, recourse was had to the issue of paper-money, which, 
although it temporarily relieved the necessities, soon banished both confidence and 
coin to such a degree that it fell to 10 per cent, of its original value, compelling the 
prohibition of its circulation, and the institution of measures to withdraw it. It was 
then considered advisable to separate the treasury department from the general gov- 
ernment : to establish custom-houses at St. John's, Aguadilla, Mayagues, Cabo Eojo, 
Ponce, and Fajardo; and to organize a Tribunal of Commerce and an Economical 
Society, all in virtue of a Eoyal order of 28th November, 1811, from which period dates 
the existence of the Superintendency of the island, although all its attributions were 
only completed by Eoyal order of 28th July, 1846. These measures might not have 
failed of early and materially favorable results if the pecuniary embarrassment had 
merely arisen from want of protection to commerce and agriculture ; but the evil had 
other roots. The enormous deficiency of the .situado could not be covered in a short 
time, especially in the chaotic state of the administration, and with the smuggling that 
prevailed with the connivance of those whose duty it was to prevent it. Alihough 
many of the abuses were soon suppressed, such was the magnitude of the rsst that no 
considerable improvement could be experienced for some time. In 1825 greater vigor 
was infused into the measures of the administration, who appointed officers termed 
celadores, men of known probity, whose duty it was to supervise the management of 
the respective custom-houses, subjecting them to certain regulations, and requiring 
greater method and perspicuity in thwir accounts. The greatest vigilance was also 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 147 

year, either by paying for themselves with money accumulated from the 
produce of the patches of ground they are allowed to cultivate on holi- 
days for their own benefit, or by being paid for (as many are) by their 
free relatives, who retain no legal claim on them. In neither case can 
the owner refuse manumission, or demand more than cost price, or such 
as may be adjudged by the Sindico, and usually ranging from $25 for 
an infant just born, to $300 and $500 for adults. Premising that the 
population at present is 550,000, the proportion per geographical square 
league is nearly 1,827 (152 per square statute mile), While in Cuba it 
is but 254 ; in Jamaica less than 1 ,000, and in Hayti about 382, sup- 
posing a population of 936,000. Were the Island of Cuba as densely 
peopled, it would contain 6£ millions of inhabitants. The proportion 
between slaves and freemen is no less satisfactory. According to the 
census of 1834, of the 358,836 inhabitants of Porto Rico, 54 per cent, 
were whites, 35 per cent, free colored, and 11 per cent, slaves. At the 
same period, according to Humboldt, the proportion per cent, in the 
other slave-holding countries was as follows : 

Cuba. Jamaica. Brit. W. I. United States. Brazil. 

White 46 6 9 81 23 

' ' Free colored 18 9 10 3 /b 

Slaves 36 85 SI 16 51 

exercised against smuggling, and ere long the revenue was doubled. In the statistical 
returns of 1816 the production of the island was set down as $2,057,932, on a capital 
of $14 546 911. In 1820 the production had increased to $3,060,040; in 1827 to 
$3 509 663- in 1833 to $6,702,012; and in 1844 to $3,935,794, although in 1824 it was 
only $2 582,337. Previous to the Eoyal decree of 10th August, 1815 (exempting the 
inhabitants of the island from assessments and tithes for 15 years), the exportation (in 
1813) amounted to $339,940, while in ISIS and 1819 it rose to $980,692 and $1,098,033 
re«peciivelv. The prosperity of the island is almost entirely due to the Royal decree 
above mentioned. Thereby were permitted— the importation of slaves from the neigh- 
boring colonies ; and the immigration of foreigners with capita! and slaves, such 
colonials bein- accorded all the privileges of Spaniards after a residence of five years ; 
the exemption, as before stated, from assessments and tithes for 15 years, although an 
inland tax was imposed to defray the expenses of government; direct trade with the 
Ponin-ula free of duty, three per cent, being levied on the entry and clearance of 
shipments, by Spaniards, in Spanish bottoms, to foreign countries in Europe, the goods 
being transferable from one vessel to another free of further duty; the importation of 
slaves by Spaniards free of duty, and by foreigners under a duty of three per cent, ad 
valorem: and of agricultural implements, gold, silver, and ships on the same terms 
whence-ever proceeding; the direct trade by foreigners with the United States and 
Europe for one year, and with the neighboring colonies for six months, under a duty 
of 15 p*r cent, on manufactured goods, 10 per cent, on provisions generally, $1 per ton 
as tonnage duty on United States vessels, and 4 rials on those of other nations, and 5 
per cent, on the value of domestic produce exported. These were the chief bases ot 
the progress of the island, although they suffered many restrictions, and some of the 
measures were not properly carried out "-(Gaelic's Descriptive Map, Madrid, I80I.) 



148 Porto Rico : 

These statements prove how unjustly some writers have exclaimed 
against the numerous slavery of the Spanish Antilles, and that this fer- 
tile and well-situated island not only ranks among the most populous 
countries, but that slavery therein is gradually becoming extinct. The 
number of foreign settlers (except those from Spain and South America, 
who are proportionately few) in the island is very small. French emi- 
grants, chiefly from Hayti, and holding several of the coffee plantations, 
are probably the most numerous ; next, Italians and Corsicans, several 
of whom are sugar planters, a few Germans employed in commerce, and 
Danes (from the neighboring islands), the majority of whom arc man- 
agers of sugar estates. There are also a few Dutch and English, but of 
Americans there are probably not twenty in the whole island. A large 
number of the so-called white population are, in reality, colored — prob- 
ably one half. The Jibaro, or native of the rural districts, is supposed 
to be, generally speaking, of Indian descent ; but of the pure aboriginal 
breed, said to have numbered 600,000 at the discovery, we do not believe 
that one remains. 

Religion* — As in all Spanish countries, the Eoman Catholic and Apos- 
tolic is the only form of worship tolerated, and it must be professed by 
all foreigners previous to domiciliation or marriage, or proofs given of 
such profession, in order to obtain burial in consecrated ground. 

Administrative Division. — The island is governed by a captain-gen- 
eral appointed by the Crown, and who presides over the Real Audiencia 
or court of judicature, and all the tribunals except those of Commerce 
and Exchequer. No important measures, however, are carried into 
effect without the approval of the Crown. The Real Audiencia is com- 
posed of a president (the Captain-General), a regent, four judges, an at- 
torney-general, and a recorder, and tries all suits and administrative 
affairs under appeal, criminal causes in all cases, and exercises author- 
ity in various other matters* referred to it by the laws. The adminis- 
trative division of the territory comprises eight districts, and sixty-seven 
townships, viz. : the district of San Juan % (the capital), comprising the 
townships of Luquillo, Rio-grande, Loiza, Trujillo-alto, Trujillo-bajo, 
Cangrejos, Rio-piedras, Guainabo, Bayamon, Toa-alta, Toa-baja, Naran- 
jito, Corozal, Vega-alta, Vega-baja, and Dorado; Arecibo — Hatillo, Ca- 
muy, Quebradillas, Utuado, Manati, Ciales, and Morovis; Aguarfilla— 
Aguada, Rincon, Moca, Pepino, Lares, and Isabela ; May agues — Aiiasco ; 
San German — Cabo Rojo and Sabana-grande ; Ponce — Juana Diaz, 
Santa Isabel de Coamo, Villa de Coamo, Aibonito, Barranquitas, Barros, 
Penuelas, Adjuntas, Guayanilla, and Yauco; Caguas — Gurabo, Juncos, 
Hato-Grande, Aguas-buenas, Sabana del Palmar, Cidra, Cayey, Gua- 
yama, and Salinas ; and Humacao, with the townships of Fajardo, Ceiba,. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 149 

Naguabo, Piedras, Yabucoa, Maunabo, and Patillas. A chief justice, 
residing in each of the eight districts, decides, without appeal (aided by- 
two hombres buenos), in all suits not exceeding $100, and takes imme- 
diate cognizance of all other causes not subject to the special tribunals 
of the general government, church, war, navy, artillery, engineers, ex- 
chequer, commerce, and estate of deceased persons. An alcalde in each 
town, at the head of the ayuntamiento or corporation, acting as justice 
of the peace, deciding without appeal all lawsuits under $50, in which 
cases he consults the opinion of the hombres buenos (sponsors of the par- 
ties), issuing writs, apprehending delinquents, and exercising generally 
the authority delegated to him in judicial matters by the chief justice of 
the district. There are also sub-alcaldes for the different wards, and 
the sergeant-majors of the country militia exercise authority in certain 
petty matters. 

Exchequer. — This branch is conducted by an intendant of the army, 
and general delegated superintendent, and four offices established at the 
capital, viz. : the chief accountant's office and tribunal of accounts, the 
liquidating office, the chief treasury of the army, and chief adminis- 
tration of internal revenue, for the accountantship of land-taxes. The 
revenue is collected by seven custom-houses of the first class, five of the 
second, and nine of the third, making monthly remittances to the chief 
treasury, and fifteen receptories, whose collections are likewise remitted 
every month to the treasury, through the administration of internal rev- 
enue, to which they are subject. The custom-houses of the first class 
are those of St. John's, Mayagiies, Ponce, Guayama, Aguadilla, Nagu- 
abo, and Arecibo, and are authorized for all export and import trade, 
and to issue permits or dockets for all goods transmitted to the other au- 
thorized places in the island. Of the second class are those of Cabo 
Rojo, Fajardo, Humacao, Guayanilla, and Salinas de Coamo, authorized 
for the exportation of the produce of the island, the admission of goods 
from the first-class custom-houses in coasting vessels of the island, the 
issue of permits for such goods to the other authorized ports, and the im- 
portation of provisions and lumber from the United States. Of the third 
class are those of Manati, Luquillo. Aiiasco, Penuelas, Guanica, Santa 
Isabel de Coamo, Patillas, Jobos, and Isabela, authorized for the admis- 
sion of goods docketed by the first and second-class custom-houses, and 
to clear domestic goods to all parts of the island. Each of the principal 
custom-houses is administered by a collector, an accountant, a treasurer, 
a chief of the tide-waiters, an inspector, and a weigher. There are two 
receptories at St. John's, and one in each of the following towns : May- 
agiies, Ponce, Guayama, Aguadilla, San German, Arecibo, Manati, 
Anasco, Cabo Eojo, Caguas, Humacao, Guayanilla, and Juana Diaz. 



150 Porto Rico: 

One of those at St. John's is for the collection of the estate of regu- 
lars, rent of crown lands, fines, and for the indemnification of stamp- 
paper. The rest are for the sale of stamp-paper, papal hulls, tickets 
in the government lottery,, and for the collection of subsidies and land- 
taxes. 

Church* — There is a bishop nominated by the Crown, confirmed by the 
Pope, and suffragan of the archbishop of Cuba ; a chapter composed of 
a dean, an archdeacon, and a precentor, four canons, and two distribu- 
tors of rations ; six vicars corresponding to St. John's, San German, 
Arecibo, Coamo, Aguada, and May agues, and a curate for each town in 
the island. 

Army. — The territory of the island is divided into eight commandan- 
cies or military departments, whose chiefs have charge of the armed 
forces. The latter consist of three Peninsular regiments of 900 men 
each, a brigade of artillery, six battalions of disciplined militia infantry, 
and a regiment of militia cavalry, composed of three squadrons. The 
superior officers are — the captain-general, director-general of militia 
(infantry and cavalry), sub-inspector of the royal corps of artillery and 
engineers, and the second general in command, sub-director of the Pen- 
insular corps. ' 

Navy. — The coast is divided into six districts or adjutancies — St. 
John's, Aguadilla, Mayagues, Ponce, Guayama, and Naguabo, under a 
commander-in-chief, who resides at St. John's, and is subject to the com- 
mandant-general of the station at Havana, in Cuba. The force consists 
of a coast-guard schooner, at the orders of the captain-general and the 
superintendent, and the arsenal contains 18 gun-boats and 4 auxiliary 
boats, to be manned when necessary by the artillerymen and marines of 
the establishment. The district of St. John's extends 61 miles on the 
north from the mouth of the Camuy River, exclusive, which lies west of 
the port, to the Mameyes River on the east, and comprises the sub-dele- 
gations of Manati and Arecibo on the west, and Loiza on the east. 
That of Aguadilla extends 36 miles from the mouth of the Camuy River 
on the north coast, to the Cano de Barrero on the west coast, and com- 
prises the sub-delegation of Isabela on the north. That of Mayagues 
extends 44 miles from the Cano de Barrero to Punta Jaboncillos, wind- 
ward* of the port of Guanica on the south coast, and comprises the sub- 
delegations of Cabo Rojo and San German de Lajas on the west. That 
of Ponce extends 38 miles on the south coast from Punta Jaboncillos to 
Punta Salitral de Aguirre, and comprises the sub-delegations of Gua- 



* Windward means eastward, whence the wind usually blows, and leeward means 
westward. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 151 

yanilla and Salinas de Coaino. That of Guayama extends 25 J miles on 
the south coast from Punta Salitral de Aguirre to Cabo de Mala-pascua, 
and comprises the sub-delegation of Patillas. • That of Naguabo extends 
42s miles along the east coast, from Cabo de Mala-pascua to the mouth 
of the Mameyes River on the north, and comprises the sub-delegations of 
Yabucoa, Humacao, and Fajardo, and Cayo Santiago, Vieques, Culebras, 
and other islets and keys windward of Fajardo. 

Laws. — The island, like that of Cuba, is subject to special laws, pend- 
ing the formation of which are in force the laws, royal decrees, regula- 
tions, and orders dictated by the Supreme Goyernment, and communi- 
cated to the island. Next in order are the local regulations instituted 
by the Governor, the Audiencia, and the respective corporations of the 
towns. Then follow the Ordenanzas de Intendentes de Nueva Espana, 
which especially regard the exchequer. Next the Recopilacion de leyes 
de Indias ; and finally, the following codes : Novisima Recopilacion, con- 
sisting of the occasional Royal edicts ; Nueva Recopilacion ; Leyes de 
Toro ; Ordenamiento de Alcala ; Fuero Juzgo, which is chiefly an 
abridgment of the Theodosian Code originally promulgated by Alacie, 
who succeeded Euric, one of the Gothic conquerors of Spain ; with the 
addition, from time to time, of numerous other laws ; and the Leyes de 
las Siete Partidas, mostly formed of Roman, Gothic, and Canon laws. 
The military, naval, and commercial branches are especially legislated 
by the Ordenanzas del ejercito, Ordenanzas generales de Marina y Ma- 
triculas, and the Codigo de Comercio. 

Education. — This branch was greatly neglected until 1837, many of 
the towns being without even a primary school ; but since the institu- 
tion of the Provincial Committee on primary instruction in that year 
(incorporated in 1851 in the Royal Academy of Belles-lettres) much 
progress has been made. There is at present a public school in every 
town, besides private ones in those of the first and second class. The 
city of St. John's contains six public and four private schools— four of 
the first for girls and two for boys, and of the last, two for each sex — 
besides a seminary, founded in 1831, with three professorships proper to 
the institution, and those of the French and English languages, mathe- 
matics, and design, which are supported by the Sociedad Economica 
de Amigos del Pais. According to the statement published by the Acad- 
emy in 1852, the schools of the island were attended by 2,981 scholars. 
A large number of the boys are sent to Europe or the United States for 
education. The young Creoles are exceedingly apt scholars, and very 
few attain manhood without a knowledge of reading, writing, and arith- 
metic, as, unfortunately, despising mechanical pursuits, their great aim 
is to qualify themselves for clerkship. The education of the females 



152 Porto Rico: 

has, until recently, been much less attended to, and many can not write 
(very few can do so correctly), although their musical abilities, which are 
very good, may be cultivated ; at present, however, a knowledge of let- 
ters is becoming gradually diffused among them, and, like their broth- 
ers, they learn readily. They are in general excellent and industri- 
ous needlewomen. At St. John's there is a circulating library (the only 
one in the island) and two semi-weekly papers are published — the " Ga- 
ceta de Gobierno" and the " Boletin." The " Semanario" is issued at 
Mayagues, and the " Ponceno" at Ponce — both semi-weeklies. 

Character and Customs. — The Porto Riqueneans, like the inhabitants 
of all warm countries, are generally indolent, owing both to the ener- 
vating character of the climate, and the bountiful provisions of nature 
against their necessary wants ; but they are temperate, honest at heart 
though thriftless, courteous, hospitable, and devout, especially in the 
rural districts. The poor (?) tenant of a hut built entirely of the palm- 
tree, and bound together with the strong and pliable bejuco, whose 
only habiliments are a check shirt, osnaburgs pantaloons, straw hat, 
and an innocent machete strapped to his waist ; who spends most of the 
time in his hammock smoking and playing on the tiple (a small guitar), 
doing nothing, or sleeping ; divested of care for the future by the pres- 
ent' possession of a few coffee and plaintain trees, a cow, and the indis- ' 
pensable horse, and anticipating the pleasures of the next holiday's 
cock-fight or dance, will extend the most cordial and polite welcome to 
the benighted traveler, set before him the best of his plantains, milk, 
and cheese ; relinquish to him his rustic bed ; unsaddle and feed his 
horse, which at break of day he will have in readiness, and dismiss his 
guest with a " vaya usted con Dios," refusing with a gesture of pride or 
offended delicacy all proffer of payment. Such is the Jibaro of the in- 
terior. Proximity to the coast, and therefore to civilization, renders 
him interested, salutationless because not answered on first occasions, 
and deceitful in ratio of the increase of his wants. Dancing, cock-fight- 
ing, and the card game of monte are the favorite amusements of the 
men. The women are passionately fond of dancing, which they learn 
almost instinctively, and are great church-goers. They are small, 
graceful, and pretty, and their natural graces are enhanced (in the 
towns) by the draping mantilla, which used to be worn on all out-of- 
door occasions, but is at present unfortunately giving way to the bolder 
and far less becoming European hat, except at church, although there 
too the innovation has recently been permitted at the instance of some 
foreign ladies. It is also common to see them at the paseos with none 
but nature's covering on their heads. The nature of the climate and 
the want of systematic exercise soon mar the beauty of the women, and, 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 153 

marriageable at the early age of twelve to fourteen, at thirty-five they 
rank as old. 

The Jibaros are sallow, lean, and not very well formed, but wiry and 
active, and endurant of great fatigue, though consuming very little 
animal food. St. John's £ay (June 24) used to be celebrated much 
more gayly than at present, at the capital, by horse-racing through the 
streets during that and the preceding day, and the greater part of both 
nights, at ,which time especially the unaccustomed beholder would be 
struck with astonishment. Hundreds-, perhaps thousands, of horses 
brought in from the country around, coursing through the streets at 
full speed ; some with single riders, but the majority bearing a couple— 
the lady being seated behind and firmly grasping the handle- shaped 
rims of the banastas ; the shouted jests of both spectators and perform- 
ers ; the clattering of the thousand hoofs ; the detonation of fire-arms ; 
the crackle and blaze of the bonfires, over which the most venturesome 
leap their horses, and clouds of smoke and dust, render it altogether a 
most singular, wild, and exciting spectacle. The amusement is partaken 
by all classes, and although complete license prevails and merry jests 
are rife, the bounds of decency are very rarely trespassed. Accidents 
occur, of course, but are soon forgotten, and few ladies would be de- 
terred by having nearly broken their necks the year before. This cus- 
tom is gradually yielding to- the increasing opposition of the government, 
the same as the lively masquerades, egg-shell pelting in carnival, and 
the musical gift-begging parties at new year's, which last is now con- 
fined to the lower classes, though formerly participated in by the gentry, 
who in large bands of both sexes would play and sing at the doors of 
their acquaintance until invited in to refreshment and dancing. The 
horses are not shod, and instead of the European saddle, which only 
lately has been adopted among the higher classes, the harness consists 
of a rodilla or double pad of plantain-stalk, over that an aparejo—a, 
thick, wide, and broad cushion of straw, surmounted by the banastas — 
a pair of strong wicker baskets, held together by bands of ox-hide, and 
strapped tightly around the horse, fitting on each side of the cushion, 
over which the rider throws his great-coat or blanket, and uses the ba- 
nastas as saddle-bags. The women ride on them sideways, as on a sad- 
dle, to which they are preferred by many travelers as being less fatigu- 
ing. 'The baskets or panniers are sometimes quite large, serving to 
carry plantains, etc., and the writer has seen a whole family borne by 
one horse — a man with a child on his lap, one in each basket, and his 
wife en croupe. The doors of the houses are always open, except at 
night, and there being no porters, knockers, or bells, the visitor has to 
announce himself viva voce with an " a Dios gracias" (thanks be to 

7# 



154 Porto Rico : 

God), or "Ave Maria" (Hail Mary), which is answered from within— 
" a Dios sean dadas" (to God be they given), or " sin pecado concebida" 
(conceived without sin), with the addition of " adelante" (come forward). 
Of late years, however, the knuckles begin to be found sufficient. The 
houses are never more than two stories high, and are usually provided 
with spacious balconies and jalousies, but have no glass window-shutters. 
Twenty or thirty years ago the furniture of the majority of them was 
limited to a few hammocks, benches, and ordinary deal tables, but at 
present many are furnished in the best European style. Matting and 
oil-cloth begin to be introduced for the houses of the better class, though 
bare floors are still the rule. The churches being unprovided with 
pews, the women alternately sit and kneel on the floor, or carpets 
brought for the occasion by their servants, while the, men stand and 
kneel. Rich and poor, white and black, free and bond, adore God to- 
gether, the coarse garment of the field-negro in contact with the silk 
and broadcloth of his master. The slaves in general are well treated, 
and allowed many privileges, but none are taught to read or write. 

Ox-carts are generally used for drayage, except at St. John's, where 
carts are not allowed in the streets, and heavy burdens are slung on 
poles which are borne either by mules or on the shoulders of men. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 155 



INDUSTRIAL GEOGRAPHY. 

Manufactures and. Arts. — The chief manufacture is that of muscovado- 
sugar, the quality of which is not excelled in any part of the world. 
It is generally of a fine yellow color and strong grain, and is much es- 
teemed in foreign markets for immediate use, as it does not require to 
be refined. Cattle-mills, and a few wind-mills, were, until within a few 
years, the only ones used, hut at present steam-power is employed on 
many of the estates. A steam sugar-refinery and iron-foundry com- 
bined was estabHshed at Mayagiies about three years ago by a Liver- 
pool firm, but in consequence of the failure of the owner, was not 
sustained long enough to test success, l^m is made, but in small 
quantity. There is a steam-mill for sawing lumber and grinding maize 
near Cabo Eojo, and another in the district of Ponce. In the interior 
they make excellent sweetmeats of guava, orange, etc., casabe or yuca- 
bread, starch from the same root, arrow-root flour, coarse cotton cloth 
for hammocks, tiles, bricks, and coarse pottery, shingles, tubs hollowed 
out of the trunk of the cedar tree, mats, baskets, straw hats, tallow 
candles, soft soap, and cocoa-nut oil. In several of the towns there 
are, besides shoemakers and other trades, manufactories of chocolate, 
friction-matches, cigars, tortoise-shell combs, carts, cart-wheel tires, 
and other petty iron work, and several tanneries. Ship-building is lim- 
ited to small schooners and lighters, whose chief merit is great strength 
derived from the excellence of the timber. 

Agriculture. — Agricultural science in the island is still in a very prim- 
itive condition. The antediluvian wooden plough continues in use in 
the interior, although European implements are being generally adopted 
on the sugar plantations. Manuring is not practiced, owing to the great 
native fertility of the soil, and where a constant and numerous succes- 
sion of crops has impoverished the land, it is abandoned. The latest 
official statement of the number of acres under cultivation is of too old 
a date for present reference. The staple productions, constituting the 
wealth of the island, are sugar, coffee, and tobacco, as, although cotton 
of excellent quality was extensively cultivated eight or ten years ago, 
the quantity produced at present is small. Besides the above are raised 
plantains, maize, rice, sweet potatoes, pulse, yuca, and other vegetables. 
The fruit of the island is independent of cultivation. The average yield 
of sugar per cuerda (nearly -an English acre) is about 3,500 pounds, 
though 5,000 to 6,000 pounds is often produced by the best lands, and 
even 8,000 and 9,000 pounds in some instances, and this without the 



156 Porto Rico : 

modern improvements in manufacture "which so much increase the pro- 
duction. The annual crops of the estates average about 300 to 400 
hogsheads (of 11 to 12 quintals each), while the largest make from 600 
to 1,500 hogsheads. The proportion of molasses is about 4 gallons per 
100 pounds of sugar. On plantations that are short of slaves, the 
Jibaros or country people are employed during the season of cane-cut- 
ting at the rate of two reales (twenty-five cents, per diem and fed, and 
they would be far more advantageous to the planter than slaves if their 
attendance could be relied on, but being indolent, impatient of control, 
and having few wants to supply, they will seldom be induced to work 
more than three or four days out of the week, and not very hard then. 
The cane planted from cuttings matures in 9 to 12 months. The crop 
usually extends from the beginning of January to May or June. Sugar 
is very profitable to the Potto Rico planter, paying full interest on the 
outlay at the rate of $2| the quintal, and it is rarely worth less than 
$8, and frequently a good deal more. Coffee and tobacco are almost 
exclusively raised by free labor. The former is superior to that of 
Brazil, than which it commands nearly one dollar per quintal more in 
the German markets. There are two distinct qualities — the native or 
double-shell, and the plantation or single-shell. The first is grown by 
the peasantry and brought to the shops in small parcels of 25 to 100 
pounds in payment of advances in goods and provisions at usurious 
prices, and is produced at the rate of 15 to 85 pounds per tree, which 
grows very high, and even spontaneously in the forests. The grains are 
allowed to dry in the berry, and though comparatively small and dull- 
colored, are of excellent flavor. On the regular plantations, which are 
few in number, and whose annual crops vary from 200 to 800 quintals, 
the trees are pruned low, and do not average much over a pound each. 
The grain is usually large and of fine color, because it is divested of the 
pulp and outer skin constituting the berry very soon after being picked. 
The primitive mode of removing the inner shell, still generally practiced, 
consists in beating the grains in a large wooden mortar with a pestle, 
which is sometimes tipped with lead to improve the color of the grains, 
A coffee plant requires about four years from the time of planting to 
that of fruition. The coffee market opens in November. Three-fourths 
of the tobacco is produced on the north coast, and were it not exclu- 
sively in the hands of the non-progressive peasantry, might be grown 
of nearly as good quality as in Cuba. As it is, it commands a fair price 
for the German markets, and in Sabana del Palmar, near the centre of 
the island, it is of very fine and peculiar flavor, and known as tabaco 
de Comeri#. Plantains and Indian corn or maize are indigenous to tho 
soil. The root of the first is perennial, or rather annually renewed bv 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 157 

three off-sets, each giving one stalk, which grows up in 8 or 9 months 
and produces a cluster of 100 and upward. Maize giyes three crops a 
year. In many districts it is raised only for the leaves and stalks to 
feed horses. The reason why a great deal of rice is not produced is 
doubtless the want of proper mills to clean it, instead of the mortar and 
pestle, which, besides the attendant labor, breaks the grain and gives it 
a dirty appearance. Notwithstanding the suitableness of the soil for 
both maize and rice, the cultivation of them (especially of the second) 
is quite inadequate to the consumption, and it seems to be a rule that 
wherever sugar, tobacco, coffee, or cotton are the staple products, that 
country, though capable of producing the necessaries of life, will depend 
upon others for the most of them. Cocoa and indigo grow spontaneously 
in many parts of the island, but only the first has there been any 
attempt to cultivate, and but very recently, and it will no doubt prove 
eminently successful. 

Porto Rico, although essentially agricultural, did not produce much 
ki early times. In 1783 the production was only 278,675 pounds of 
sugar, 111,875 pounds of cotton, 701,775 pounds of tobacco, 1,126,225 
pounds of coffee, 8,800 horse-loads of plantains, 1,550,000 pounds maize, 
and 2,009,000 pounds rice, while in 1834 it rose to 41,989,700 pounds 
sugar, 402,200 pounds cotton, 2,624,900 pounds tobacco, 11,596,500 
pounds coffee, 828,530 loads plantains, 11,548,000 pounds maize, and 
8,049,800 pounds rice, besides a million gallons of rum ; and in 1851 the 
exportation amounted to 118.416.300 pounds sugar, 866,600 pounds cot- 
ton, 6,478,100 pounds tobacco, 12,111,900 pounds coffee, 4,827,400 gal- 
lons molasses, and 34,700 gallons rum, showing a remarkable degree of 
advancement, especially in the production of sugar, in spite of innu- 
merable disadvantages which might readily be obviated. According to 
the official returns for 1846, the capital invested in agriculture amount- 
ed to $40,796,464, and the value of agricultural products for the same 
year amounted to $6,896,621, or very nearly 17 per cent, on the capital. 

Navigation and Commerce #* — The number of vessels entered at the 

* There is neither a bank nor insurance office of any kind in the island. In former 
years the trade of the island, both import and export, was done almost entirely through 
St. Thomas, which to this day continues to be the depot for dry goods which are ob- 
tained by the shop-keepers on a credit of 9 to 12 months, but at prices sufficiently high 
to compensate both for the time and the great risk of insolvency (the security required 
being merely nominal), the amount of indebtedness arising from which is estimated at 
several millions of dollars. The shop-keepers in turn sell on long credits at broadly- 
margined rates, and the fact that but a minimum of the sales for immediate consump- 
tion is for cash, at the same time that there is no imprisonment for debt, is a great dis- 
advantage to the community, the members of which are thus rendered improvident, 
tempted to extravagance, and constantly involved, besides suffering from the conse- 



158 Porto Rico : 

several custom-houses of the island in 1851 was 1,324, registering 160,- 
586 tons, of which the proportion per cent, was, 42 American, 22f Span- 
ish, 21| British (chiefly Nova Scotian), 5 Bremen and Hamburg, If 
Hanoverian, Oldenburgian, and Prussian, 1| Sardinian, 2| Danish, 3£ 
French, and £ Swedish, Dutch, South American, and Dominican. The 
proportion per cent, at the respective ports was: St. John's 27 (15 k 
Spanish); Mayagiies 20J (ll£ American); Ponce and Guayanilla 16| 
(8| American) ; Guayama 13s (8 American) ; Aguadilla 5£ (1J Ameri- 
can, li German) ; Arecibo 7 J (3| American) ; and Naguabo, Humacao, 
Fajardo, etc., 9 per cent. (3| American). The number of vessels cleared 
in the same year was 1,209, registering 154,042 tons. The total value 
of the trade in 1851 was $11,835,844. Of the imports, which amounted 
to $6,073,870 (including $763,475 in coin), 19& per cent, was from the 
United States, 32| from the foreign West India Islands (chiefly St. 
Thomas), 21| from Spain, 12§ from South America (chiefly in cocoa); 
4| from Great Britain, 4| from British North America, 4 from Cuba, 
and 1| from Germany, Sardinia, and France ; the same being in ratio of 
49 1 per cent, to St. John's (8| in bond), 16f to Mayagiies, 14| to Ponce 
and Guayanilla, 8| to Guayama, 3^ to Aguadilla, 3 to Arecibo, 3£ to 
Naguabo, and f per cent, to Humacao, Fajardo, etc. The exports 
amounted to $5,761,974, of which 14i per cent, from St. John's (6J 
from bond), 23| from Mayagiies, 22$ from Ponce and Guayanilla, 13£ 
from Guayama, &h from Aguadilla, 8| from Arecibo, 5| from Naguabo, 
and 5^ from Humacao, Fajardo, etc., distributed in the proportion of 
43| per cent, to the United States, 5| to the foreign West India islands, 
9§ to Spain, 211 to Great Britain, 6 J to British North America, 7| to 
Germany, 1£ to Austria, 3 to Sardinia, U to France,- and | to Cuba and 
South America. Of the value of the imports about 62 per cent, was in 
Spanish bottoms, 22 per cent, in American, and 10| per cent, in British, 
and of the exports — 371 per cent, in American, 23^ per cent, in British, 



quent demoralization. In 1850-51 the colonial administration attempted to put an 
end to the intermediation of St. Thomas by imposing a differential duty of 15 per cent. 
ad valorem on imports from that island and other "non-producing" countries, and by 
establishing bonded warehouses at several ports besides the one already existing at 
St. John's, and also to encourage the direct importation and exportation of produce, by 
returning a portion of the inward dues provided the vessel loaded entirely with produce 
of the island. Except a differential duty of 2i per cent., none of these measures, how- 
ever.were approved of at Madrid, in consequence, evidently, of good, though perhaps 
expensive management on the part of the emissaries of the merchants of St. Thomas and 
none were realized. St. Thomas also is the chief market for the bills of exchange on 
Europe and the United States drawn in Porto Bico during the shipping season, and 
likewise for chartering vessels which arrive there in search of freight after discharging 
their outward cargoes at the Windward Islands. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 159 

and 14| per cent, in Spanish, besides the smaller proportions in bottoms 
of other nations. 

Of the imports entered for consumption, $1,099,443 was in bread- 
stuffs, $1,016,522 in textile fabrics, $798,921 in metals, $381,208 in fish, 
$337,399 in liquids, $233,701 in candles, soap, and wax, $209,416 
in tobacco, $200,659 in cooperage materials, $138,942 in lumber, 
$121,449 in skins and furs, $182,564 in hardware and cutlery, 
$120,568 in lard, butter, and cheese, $92,607 in provisions, $91,468 in 
fruit and vegetables, $90,739 in machinery and sugar-pans, $74,223 in 
agricultural implements, $45,756 in upholstery, $40,252 in earthen 
and glass ware, 27,741 in haberdashery, $25,249 in coal, $41,000 in 
clothing and hats, $21,794 in garlic, $17,355 in perfumery, $14,895 in 
spices, $20,374 in drugs, $23,429 in sugar, $3,882 in playing-cards, 
$10,479 in ice, and $180,305 in sundries. The imports comprise 44,333 
barrels of flour (37,934 from Spain and 2,973 from the United States), 
675 puncheons and 9,653 barrels corn meal (515 puncheons and 7,686 
barrels from the United States), 200 bushels corn, 65 barrels rye flour, 
10,402 quintals rice (9,400 from the United States), 290 quintals oats 
and barley, 3,881 quintals pilot-bread (3,605 from the United States), 
2,709 quintals vermicelli (2,310 from Spain), 16,761 quintals potatoes 
(8,361 from Spain, 5,764 from the United States), 7,725 quintals onions 
(3,398 from Spain, 3,105 from the United States), 612 barrels apples 
(545 from the United States), 816 quintals figs (762 from Spain), 5,852 
quintals peas and beans (5,793 from Spain), 23,123 quintals cocoa (from 
South America), 97,574 quintals dry fish (22,854 from the United 
States, 64,218 from British North America), 13,860 barrels mackerel 
(5,208 from the United States, 7,485 from British North America), 6,152 
barrels herrings (4,630 from British North America, 714 from the 
United States), 2,033 quintals smoked herrings (1,388 from the United 
States), 15,542 gallons fish oil (8,286 from the United States, 4,988 Brit- 
ish America), 2,939 barrels pork (2,700 from the United States), 843 
barrels beef (650 from the United States), 2,155 quintals jerked-beef 
(244 from the United States, 1,911 South America), 2,180 quintals hams 
(1,647 from the United States), 5,036 quintals lard (4,868 from the 
United States), 1,519 quintals butter (1,275 from the United States), 
3,697 quintals cheese (2,051 from the United States), 15,688 quintals 
soap (14,682 from Spain, 427 United States), 119 quintals sperm can- 
dles (97 from the United States), 4,211 quintals tallow candles (3,861 
from the United States), 390 quintals stearine candles (163 from the 
United States), 10,663 quintals leaf tobacco (7,178 from Cuba, 1,213 
St. Domingo, 2,272 United States), 1,580 quintals chewing tobacco 
(1,506 from the United States), 2,798 thousand cigars (1,473 Cuba, 995 



160 Porto Rico: 

Germany), 149 quintals refined sugar (49 from the United States), 2,603 
quintals clayed sugar (from Cuba), 4,575 thousand feet of white-pine 
lumber (2,936 from the United States, 1,234 British North America), 
2,267 thousand feet of pitch-pine lumber (1,904 from the United States), 
4,727 thousand shingles (3,413 from the United States, 1,034 British 
North America), 112,628 hogsheads hoops (98,425 from the United 
States, 6,524 British North America), 2,081 thousand staves (1,822 
from the United States, 696 British North America), 1,947 thousand 
wood hoops (1,491 from the United States), 3,410 empty hogsheads 
(2,255 from the United States), 15,400 dozen bottles malt liquor (8,791 
England), 64 quintals cassia (47 from the United States), 717 quintals 
black pepper (705 from the United States), 1,041 pounds tea (504 from 
the United States), 1,002 barrels tar and pitch (862 from the United 
States), 3,000 tons coal (1,500 England), 28 horses (25 from the United 
States), 2 mules (from the United States), 8,545 quintals nails (1,023 
from the United States, 3,072 England), 5,307 gallons brandy, 41.215 
gallons gin, 86,248 gallons rum, 4,880 dozen liquors, and 580,739 gal- 
lons wine. The exports comprised 1,184,163 quintals sugar, 121,119 
quintals coffee, 64,781 quintals tobacco, 4,827,400 gallons molasses, 
6,327 quintals hides, 3,666 quintals cotton, 347 puncheons rum, 5,881 
head of cattle 105 horses and 67 mules, 6,167 gallons bay -water, 1,429 
thousand ears of Indian corn, 40,863 coco-nuts, 90 quintals cocoa, 6,925 
ox-horns, 1,669 thousand oranges, 675 thousand plantains, 35 thousand 
cigars, 4 tons lignum-vitse, 178 tons logwood, 68 quintals pimento, 8,017 
logs cabinet wood, 128 quintals rice, 7,862 pounds annatto, 600 quarts 
castor oil, besides some cassia-lignea, ginger, tumeric, -coco-nut oil, etc. 

Revenue. — The revenues of the island are divided into maritime and 
inland. The first are derived from the customs and harbor dues, and 
amounted in 1851 to $1,069,448, which is a good deal less than the aver- 
age of the previous decade, owing to the repeal of the export duties in 
1850. The above amount includes $88,477 for tonnage dues, $3,108 for 
anchorage, and $2,543 for light-house dues. There are no official re- 
turns published of the inland revenue, nor of the expenses of govern- 
ment. 

Coniimmkatioo* — The roads of the island have been "until very re- 
cently so bad as to be almost impassable in the wet season. Within a 
few years, however, measures have been taken to improve them, and, if 
present projects are realized, there will soon be carriage roads commu- 
nicating between the principal towns. At present, except for very short 
distances, the island can only be traversed on horseback. The project 
of a railroad between St. John's and Arecibo has been discussed, but is 
not likely to be realized for many years. There are several small coast- 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 161 

ing vessels running between the various ports, and to and from St 
Thomas, hut affording very indifferent accommodation to passengers. A 
steamer (the Borinqueno), of 450 tons, built in New York in 1850, for a 
joint stock company in the island, communicated between the chief ports 
and St. Thomas for a short time, and promised to be a profitable invest- 
ment, besides the facilities it afforded to trade and the traveling public , 
but her machinery soon proved defective, and notwithstanding expensive 
repairs in New York, in 1858, she now lies useless. There is a monthly 
steamer from Cadiz to Porto Rico, arriving from the 28th to the 30th, 
and proceeding to Havana. Twice a month a British Royal Mail Packet 
steamer from Southampton to St. Thomas, Porto Rico (arriving the 3d 
and 18th, at 3 p.m.), Jacmel in Hayti, and Jamaica, and thence back to 
Jacmel, Porto Rico (arriving the 15th and 30th, at 8 a.m.), and St # 
Thomas. Time from Southampton to Porto Rico, 15 days 21 hours. 
From St. Thomas the steamers of the above-mentioned company afford 
communication as follows : 1st. Leaving St. Thomas the 18th for Ha- 
vana, Vera Cruz, and Tampico, retouching at Vera Cruz and Havana, and 
returning to St. Thomas the 15th. 2d. Leaving St. Thomas the 4th and 
19th for Santa Marta, Carthagena, Chagres, and Greytown, and vice 
versa (excepting Santa Marta), arriving back at St. Thomas the 15th 
and 30th. 3d. Leaving St. Thomas the 3d and 18th for St. Kitts, Nevis, 
Monserrate, Antigua, Guaclaloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, 
Barbadoes, and Demarara, and vice versa, arriving back at St. Thomas 
the 30th and 15th. Connecting with the above are the following : From 
Barbadoes the 6th and 21st for St. Vincent, Carriacon, Grenada, Trin- 
idad, and Tobago, and vice versa, arriving back at Barbadoes the 12th 
and 27th. From Jamaica, the 7th, for Honduras, and arriving back at 
Jamaica the 25th. A British steamer between New York, Bermuda, 
and St. Thomas used to transport the Porto Rico mails and passengers, 
but the route was changed some time since to Halifax, Bermuda, and St. 
Thomas, and at present the only communication with the United States 
is by sailing vessels. The trade of both St. Thomas and Porto Rico 
greatly needs a regular and speedy means of intercourse with the United 
States, and it is to be hoped that steam communication will soon be re- 
established. The mail betweeen the principal towns of the island is 
carried twice a week by mounted couriers, and the service is pretty 
well performed, the postage on a single letter ranging from 6 to 31 
cents, according to the distance. . 

Weights.— These are the same as used in Spain, viz. : 
The quintal^^a or arrobas=100 libras=200 marcos= 1,600 onzas= 
25,600 adarmes^=76,800 tomines=921,600 granos. The libra is equiv- 
alent to 460 French grammes, or, in English weight, 1.01423 pounds 



162 Porto Rico : 

avoirdupois, or 1.23258 pound Troy. In apothecaries weight — the libra 
^=12 onzas=96 dracmas=288 escrupulos=6,212 granos. 

The arrelde used in weighing beef is equal to 4 libras. 

Lineal Measure.— The Burgos or t!astilian vara=3 pies=36 pulgadas 
of 12 lineas each, and is equivalent to 836 French millimetres or 
32.91332 English imperial inches. The palmo=9 pulgadas or 12 dedos. 
The braza=2 varas. The paso=5 pies. The estadal=4 varas. The 
Castilian league=6,666§ varas, and the provincial league— 5,000 varas. 

Agrarian Measure. — The cuerda is a square of 75 varas or 5,625 
square varas=4,701f square English yards, or nearly an English acre. 
The caballeria=200 cuerdas or nearly 6 Cuban caballerias, and is 
usually 10 cuerdas front by 20 deep. The vara de tarea used in clear- 
ings and cane-cutting=3 lineal varas. The solar or building lot varies 
in the different towns. 

Dry Measure. — The fanega=12 almudes, contains 4,322| Spanish 
or 3,439 English cubic inches, equal to 1.550 English imperial or 1.600 
Winchester bushels. The cahiz, used only to measure lime=12 fanegas. 
The hogshead of sugar ranges from 10 to 18 quintals (tare 10 per cent.), 
and the barrel 250 to 280 pounds (tare 20 pounds). The bag of coffee 
110 to 120 pounds (tare 1 pound). The fanega of cocoa 110 pounds. 
The pack of cotton 120 pounds. 

Liquid Measure.— The cuartillo (quart) is nearly one-fifth larger 
than the Castilian, and contains 725 French millitres or 44.225 English 
cubic inches. The Spanish arroba of wine or great arroba=l,237| 
Spanish or 981 English cubic inches, equal to 3.538 imperial gallons. 
The arroba of oil or small arroba=2.780 imperial gallons. The pipa or 
pipe of wine— 27 arrobas. In guaging molasses the standard used is 
the American gallon, equal to 4| cuartillos or common bottles. The 
puncheon of molasses contains 110 to 140 gallons. 

Currency.— The coin generally used in the island consists of unmilled 
and roughly-stamped bits of silver of exceedingly irregular shape, 
minted in Caracas, and denominated macuquina, of the respective 
values of 1-16, \, %, and g of a peso or dollar. The whole dollar is very 
scarce, and the macuquina gold pieces have become cabinet curiosities. 
The original fullness of weight and purity of this silver coin, added to 
the facility of counterfeiting it, resulted, soon after the ports of the 
island were thrown open to foreign trade, in its exportation to a con- 
siderable extent, and the introduction of spurious pieces, so that the 
quantity in the island at present is estimated at less than a million of 
dollars, and characterized by the opposites of the above qualities. The 
vexed questions constantly arising from its depreciation have caused the 
government to deliberate on the expediency of withdrawing it, but no 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 163 

direct measures having yet been taken, it continues to be the general 
medium, done up in paper packages of $50, which, however, on passing 
from one hand to another are always opened, counted over, and in part 
rejected, for which purpose the larger commercial establishments some- 
times require two clerks. The copper coin is chiefly thin discs weigh- 
ing about the fourth of a cent, and current at 272 to the dollar. 
English pennies and American cents also pass, in parts of the island 
where the proper coin is scarce, at 4 to the medio or l-16th of a dollar. 
The gold and silver money of Spain, Mexico, and Spanish South 
America is current, the first. usually at 12 J and the latter at 6| per 
cent, better than the macuquina ; but this rate varies with the supply, 
which is rendered necessary by the exacted payment of one-fourth of 
all the customs-dues in Spanish or ex-Spanish gold. Very recently the 
circulation of other foreign coin has been authorized at the rates stated 
in the appendix to this work. 



164 Porto Rico 



DEPENDENCIES. 

Vieques {Crab Island). — This island, constituting the eighth and last 
of the departments into which Porto Rico is divided, lies 10£ miles east 
of the main island, in latitude 18° 10' north and longitude 65° 23' 14" 
west of Greenwich. It is trapezoidal in shape, 24 miles long from east 
to west, 6 miles broad, 62 in circumference, and 167 square statute 
miles in area. The land is moderately high and well wooded : the south- 
west end hilly, and westward low and uneven. There are numerous 
shoals and reefs between it and the main island. The soundings 1^ 
miles from shore are 6 fathoms. Like Porto Rico it is beautified by a 
luxuriant perennial vegetation, and divided through its length by a 
mountain chain of little height, the chief eminences of which are Cerro 
Jaloba on the south-east, and Cerro Tinajas on the west. There are 
few rivers in the island, and none permanent *nor of pure water, and 
among the numerous brooks only one (the Quebrada Mulas, near the 
town) is constant, but small and brackish. There are nine shipping 
places, viz.: Puerto Mulas on the north, Punta Arenas on the north- 
west. Puerto Ferrer or Ferro, and Ensenada Honda on the south, Puerto 
Mosquito and Puerto Real on the south-west, Puertos Diablo and Sali- 
nas on the east, and Playa-Grande on the west : none of these, however, 
merits the name of harbor. The climate is warm and damp, and un- 
healthy in the numerous swampy places. The soil, especially in the 
lowlands, is good, and the vegetable kingdom is rich, affording excel- 
lent timber for all purposes, such as dear, tachuelo, capa, cojoba, tor- 
tugo, zapote, maria, canelo, etc. Pimento and yams abound in the 
woods. Sugar, coffee, and cotton are produced, besides plantains, rice, 
and other vegetables, grains and fruits. There is a copper mine in the 
south-western extremity of the mountain chain near Puerto Real, and 
three salt-ponds on the north coast, but none of them are worked. The 
animals are cattle, horses, mules, and sheep ; ducks, flamingoes, cloves, 
partridges, parrots, pigeons, etc. ; abundance of shell-fish and crabs of 
great size, and on the south coast tortoise-shell and other turtle are 
numerous. History is silent in regard to the aboriginal inhabitants of 
this island, neither is there any record of the first settlement- of Euro- 
peans. It is', however, upward of forty years ago that several persons 
from St. Thomas, St. Croix, and other vicine islands settled in it and 
established a few farms and sugar .plantations. In 1846 the population 
numbered 1,275. 

The island is immediately governed by a commandant of the army, 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 165 

under the orders of the governor of Porto Rico, and assisted by a Junta 
de visita or circuit court. He resides in the town of Isabel Segunda, 
■which is the only one in the island, and was founded in 1843 on the 
north side in a spacious plain. In 1846 it contained 5 streets, 66 wooden 
houses and 82 huts, with a population of 854, a church, a temporary 
hospital, a fort, and a square. 

Until 1846 the trade was limited to barter of timber and other pro- 
ductions of the soil, for merchandise from the neighboring islands, but 
in consequence of the privileges subsequently accorded by the govern- 
ment, warehouses and shops are being multiplied, and the affairs of the 
island in general are progressive. The productions in 1846 were valued 
at $83,494, on a capital of $1,091,901. 

Culebras, also called Carlit and Serpent's Island on English maps, 
and sometimes Great Passage Island, lies north-east of Vieques and off 
the east end of Porto Rico, and is more than six miles in length and about 
three in breadth. There are many reefs and keys about it. Off its east 
side is Culebrita or Little Passage Island, from the south end of which 
a dangerous reef extends to the south-south-west and south-west, three 
miles. To the west of the south part of this reef is the harbor of 
Culebra, which is two miles in extent at the entrance. There are two 
channels into this harbor which are divided by a bed of rocks and 
bordered by reefs ; but the interior is clear and secure, and there is a 
pilot in the port. Plenty of water, wood, and fish may be obtained 
here, and the neighboring keys are famous for a great number of trop- 
ical birds which breed there. 

Caja de Mnertos (Dead Man's Chest).— This small islet is situated in 
lat. 47 °50 / north and long. 66° 33' west, about five miles from the centre 
of the south coast of Porto Rico. It is shaped like a wedge : the north 
end high, centre low, and the south end has a sugar-loaf mountain, which 
appears at a distance like a detached island. It is foul on both north- 
east and south-west sides. The anchorage is on the west side off the 
lowland, and half a mile off shore, in eight fathoms. 

Dcseclieo (Zacheo), fflona, and Monito.— These islets, lying off the 
west end of Porto Rico, are only frequented by fishermen, and we have 
no special description of them. They are said to contain wild goats, 
and even cattle"; and abound in fish, turtle, birds, and fine conches. 
Mona, the largest (probably 20 square miles in area), is high and well 
wooded. Its eastern extremity, which projects considerably, is in lat- 
itude 18° 07', longitude 67° 47'. Monito lies north-west of it in lati- 
tude 18° ll 7 , longitude 67° 52'. Zacheo is about 18 miles almost due 
west of Point San Francisco and in latitude 18° 24', longitude 67° 27'. 



166 Porto Rico : 



EARLY HISTORY, 

Porto Rico was discovered by Columbus in 1493, on St. John's day 
(24th of June), which was being celebrated on board when land was 
descried, for which reason the admiral gave it the name of the saint, 
though the natives called it Borinquen. The beautiful aspect of the 
country, and the facilities afforded by a fine harbor,* decided Columbus 
to anchor and land, but at the sight of the Spaniards the natives fled 
to the woods, and Columbus, inferring that they would prove intract- 
able, and not wishing to run the risk of a doubtful undertaking, weigh- 
ed anchor and proceeded on his course toward St. Domingo. Among 
his companions was Don Juan Ponce de Leon, who in 1508 reconnoitered 
and took possession of the island. The friendly reception given him by 
the chief cacique, Agueinaba, added to the fertility of the soil and the 
gold which was found in abundance, determined Ponce de Leon to 
form a colony, and he returned to St. Domingo to seek the appointment 
of governor. But Don Miguel Serron had forestalled him, and at the 
head of 200 picked men, including the said Leon, Anasco, Sotomayor, 
Gil, Toro, and Diaz, overcame the resistance of the natives with little 
loss, and effected a settlement, founding the town of Caparra in 1510, 
at the place now called Pueblo- viejo, on the southern shore of the har- 
bor of St. John's. In the same year were begun the settlements of San 
German and Aguada. In 1511, the Indians, displeased with the distri- 
bution made of them by Ponce de Leon among his companions, revolted,! 
and greatly annoyed the intruders ; but after several fierce encounters 
they were completely subjected on the field of Yagueca or Anasco. 
However, the incursions of the Caribs were so frequent, and the hur- 
ricanes so destructive, that the new settlers became discouraged, and 
the island was almost' deserted in 1530-32. 

According to history, the population of the island at the time of 

* It is uncertain what part of the island Columbus first visited, but from the descrip- 
tion of the Indian town and surrounding country, it was probably Aguadilla. 

t Though the Spaniards had already occupied the territory for some time, the In- 
dians still entertained doubts of their mortality, and the cacique Agueinaba (successor 
to him who had so amicably received Ponce de Leon), and the other Indian chiefs, 
desiring to test the matter, resolved, that one of them, the cacique Broyoan, should, if 
possible, put to death the first white man found in his dominions. Salcedo, a young 
Spaniard, traveling through the province of Tagiieca (now Anasco), was met by sev- 
eral Indians and accepted their offer to carry him across the Guaurabo Eiver. Mid- 
way they let him fall and held his head under until life was extinct. This proof of 
mortality was immediately communicated to all the chiefs in the island, and the gen- 
eral revolt ensued. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial.^ 167 

its discovery was 600,000. They were peaceful, affable, generous, and 
hospitable, and punished theft with their severest penalty. They be- 
lieved in a good spirit from whom they derived all their benefits, and an 
evil spirit to whom they attributed all their ills. Their chief amuse- 
ments were dancing and the game of ball. Their weapons were bows 
and arrows, and a species of club formed like a hatchet, no doubt the 
same as the North American tomahawk. The men employed themselves 
in hunting and fishing, and the women in cultivating maize, sweet pota- 
toes, yams, plantains, etc. 

The island was invaded by the British as early as 1519. In 1595 the 
adventurer Drake besieged the capital with a numerous fleet and sacked 
it, after having burnt the vessels that were in the harbor. This hast- 
ened the conclusion of the fortifications of the Morro begun by Philip 
II. In 1598 the Earl of Cumberland landed with 1,000 men and took 
possession of the Morro, whose garrison of 400 men capitulated ; but 
an epidemic which broke out among his troops soon obliged him to re- 
embark, after sacking and firing the town and leaving the fort in ruins. 
This invasion cost the colony, besides 80 brass-pieces, a large amount 
of provisions, and the release of many prisoners. In 1615 a powerful 
fleet, comjnanded by the Dutch general, Baldwin Henry, took possession 
of the capital and laid siege to the Morro castle, where the citizens and 
the small number of troops had taken refuge. The besieged, headed by 
Captain Juan de Amezquita y Quijano, sallied against the enemy and 
fought so valiantly that in a few hours the Dutch were defeated and 
Baldwin Henry slain by the intrepid Amezquita. In commemoration 
of the event there is a monument on the field of the Morro. In 1625 
great ravages were committed by the buccaneers and fillibusters, who, 
however, were completely defeated in 1650. In 1678 the capital was 
again attacked by a British squadron commanded by Earl Strain, but 
a violent storm destroyed their vessels against the coast before the troops 
could be landed. In 1702 another British squadron landed troops on 
the shores of Arecibo, but so impetuous an onslaught was made on 
them by a small band of militia cavalry under Captain Correa, that they 
were forced - to retreat to their ships, leaving many dead and wounded. 
In 1797 the capital was again besieged by the British under Abercrom- 
bie, with a large fleet and over 10,000 troops, but so heroic was the 
defense made by the inhabitants during thirteen successive clays, that 
the besiegers were compelled to re-embark with great loss in dead, 
wounded, and prisoners, and in ammunition and stores. Aguadilla also 
was attacked at the same time and made a brave resistance, and in 
1825 repelled some privateers who had taken possession of the fort; 
Fajardo, too, made a brave defense against the privateers. 



168 Porto Kico 



THE CAPITAL AND THE DEPARTMENTS. 

■ San Juan Bantista de Puerto Rico, called St. John's in English, is situ- 
ated on the north coast, about 80 miles west of Cabeza de San Juan, on 
an islet about 2| miles in length and little over 500 yards in breadth. 
This islet is connected by the bridge of San Antonio with a larger one, 
which is united to the mainland by the Aurora bridge. The city, which 
with its suburbs occupies an area of 87 acres, was founded in 1511 by 
the Governor Juan Ponce de Leon, whose fortified residence, now known 
as the Casa-blanca, was the first edifice of any note therein. In 1846 
the number of houses was 918, including the public and state buildings, 
with a population of 15,867. There are 13 streets — 6 running east and 
west, and 7 north and south — straight and very well paved, with a con- 
cave centre instead of gutters at the sides, and, as few wheeled vehicles 
are used, and the land slopes, every shower washes them thoroughly. 
The city proper is encircled by a high and exceedingly thick wall,* plen- 
tifully surmounted by cannon, and embracing two strong fortresses (the 
Morro on the north-west, at the entrance of the harbor, and San Cristo- 
bal, with its labyrinthine outworks on the east) and pierced* by three 
guarded gates — San Justo, San Juan, and Santiago. There are, besides, 
many well-situated batteries, and the place is altogether so well fortified, 
and protected moreover by the high and rocky nature of the northern 
coast, as to be almost impregnable. The principal edifices are — the Casa 
de Beneficencia (alms-house), with accommodation for 800 persons ; the 
military hospital, with ample room for 350 beds ; the building containing 
the treasury offices ; the palace of St. Catherine or Real Fortaleza, where 
the Captain-General resides and has his office: the arsenal ; the cathe- 
dral (a great, gloomy structure commenced in 1513 and not finished until 
very recently) ; the convents of Santo Domingo, San Francisco, and Car- 
melite nuns, which also serve as churches ; the town-house, seminary of 
San Ildefonso, the bishop's palace, park of artillery, a fine theatre, cus- 
tom-house, bonded warehouse, market-house, jail, and house of correc- 
tion. The intramural dwellings are two stories high, built of brick with 
very thick walls, balconies, and terrace-roofs, to which the tenants resort 
in the evening. They are all whitewashed inside and out, and relieved 
by the green balconies and jalousies, combining with the clean and well- 
paved streets to give the city a very neat appearance. Water is supplied 

* This wall forms a parapet over 40 feet thick, and, together with the two main fort- 
resses, cost so much money that the king of Spain declared that they must have been 
^na-'e of solid silver, 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 169 

by a cistern in every house, and drought seldom lasts long enough to 
occasion any inconvenience in that respect.* There are several squares, 
the principal ones being the Plaza de Armas and the Plaza de Santiago, 
which fronts the theatre and is finely shaded by almond-trees. Two fine 
military bandsf play in them several evenings in the week. There is 
also a fine shady paseo extending to the bridge of San Antonio. The 
climate of the city is hot but dry, and comparatively healthy. A steam 
ferry-boat plies across the harborf to the village of Cataiio on the main- 
land. There is a long stone pier at which brigs can discharge. 

The First Department|| is situated on the north-east of the island, and 
contains 15 towns with their corresponding districts, viz.: Bayamon, 
Toa-alta, Toa-baja, Dorado, Naranjito, Vega-alta or Espinosa, Vega- 
baja or Naranjal, Corozal, Guaynabo, Rio-piedras, Trujillo-alto, Trujillo- 
bajo, Rio-Grande, Loiza, and Cangrejos. St. John's is the port of entry. 

Bayamon^ the head of the department, and founded in 1772, is situated 
near the southern coast of the harbor of St. John's, north of Naranjito, 
east of Toa-alta, and west of Rio-piedras. Population of the district 
8,125. Productions. — Sugar, a little coffee, etc., amounting to $101,913, 
on a capital of $828,223. Rivers. — The Bayamon, rising in the Cidra 
mountains and emptying into the harbor of St. John's at Palo-seco, and 
its tributaries the Rio Hondo and Minillas, besides 13 brooks. 

Toa-alta, founded in 1751, on the north coast of the island, toward the 

* An attempt was made some years ago to bore an Artesian well in the principal 
square, but, owing to want of implements or to ignorance, the contractor, a Swede, we 
believe, failed, and was condemned to labor in the chain-gang. At the place called 
Miraflores, near the city, are some excellent springs. 

t Probably as good as any in Europe. 

% The harbor of St. John's is very capacious, and ships may lie with the utmost safety 
in Ave, six, and seven fathoms. The entrance is along the islet on which the city is 
erected, and between the Morro point (on which is a revolving light, in lat. 1S° 25' 40" 
north and long. 66° 7' 2'' west of Greenwich, showing S seconds of light to 114 of 
darkness) and three islets called the Cabras. South of the latter is a small islet occu- 
pied by a little square fort called the Canuelo, which defends the west side of the har- 
bor. The chann£l is generally buoyed. The west and south sides of the harbor are 
flat and shoal. The west side of the entrance is rocky, but in the channel the ground 
is generally gravel and sand, with depth of five, six, seven, and eight fathoms. " From 
the south side of the town a low point of land extends to the southward, and is sur- 
rounded by a shoal. Ships generally ride to the east of this flat, and out of the wash 
of the sea occasioned by the trade wind, which commonly sets directly into the harbor. 
It is high- water in the harbor at 8h. 21min. on the full and change, and the greatest 
rise is about 1|- feet.— BlwnVs Coast Pilot* 

II These items are chiefly taken from Pastrana's Catechism of Geography. The sta- 
tistics of population, production, etc., of this and the succeeding departments are from 
the census of 1S46. In the agricultural productions only sugar, coffee, tobacco, cotton, 
and cattle will be mentioned. 

8 



170 Porto Rico : 

interior, north of Corozal, south of Toa-baja, east of Vega-alta, and west 
of Bay anion. Population of the district 4,821. Productions. — Sugar 
and coffee in small quantity, cattle, etc., amounting to $38,862, on a 
capital of $256,997. Rivers.— The Toa, rising in Cerro-pelado, in Cayey ; 
the Lajas, rising west of the town; the Mucarahones and Guadiana, ris- 
ing in the southern wards ; the Canas, flowing from the heights on the 
south, and the Cancel, rising on the east. These are all tributaries of the 
Toa, which empties into the sea at the place called Boca Habana. There 
are also 14 brooks. 

Toa-baja, founded in 1745, on the north coast, north of Toa-alta, south- 
east of Dorado, and north-west of Bayamon. Population of the district 
2,979. Productions. — Chiefly sugar, and valued at $102,839, on a cap- 
ital of $981,357. Rivers. — The Toa, before-mentioned, besides several 
brooks and drains. 

El Dorado, founded in 1842, on the north coast, east of Vega-baja 
and north-west of Toa-baja. Population of the district 2,786. Produc- 
tions. — Oiiefly sugar, and amounting to $78,034, on a capital of $535,329. 
Rivers. — The Toa, Dorado, Cocal, and Lajas, besides several drains. 

Naranjito, founded in 1824, in the interior, north of Sabana del Palmar, 
south of Bayamon, south-east of Corozal, and west of Aguas-buenas. 
Population of the district 2,835. Productions. — Some coffee, etc., amount- 
ing to $12,243, on a capital of $106,234. Rivers.— The Rio-Grande or 
Toa, with its tributaries the Naranjito and Canas, besides 19 brooks. 

Vega-alta or Espinosa, founded in 1775, on the north coast, north of 
Corozal, south-west of Dorado, east of Vega-baja, and west of Toa-alta. 
Population of the district 3,807. Productions. — Sugar and coffee,, etc., 
amounting to $64,922, on a capital of $227,928. Rivers.— The Sibuco, 
emptying into the sea north of Naranjal, besides several brooks. 

Vega-baja or Naranjal, founded in 1776, on the north coast, north of 
Ciales, east of Manati, and west of Vega-alta. Population of the district 
4,173. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, etc., amounting to $81,865, on a 
capital of $648,998. The forests abound in timber of ortegon, Gear, 
ausubo, etc. Rivers. — The Sibuco and Morovis, besides several brooks 
and three large drains. 

Corozal, founded in 1795, in the interior, northward, south of Toa-alta, 
north-west of Naranjito, and east of Morovis. Population of the district 
5,009. Productions.— All kinds of lesser fruits, amounting to $38,038, 
on a capital of $244,727. Rivers.— Maravilla, Congo, Corozal, Padilla, 
Negro, Maria, and Sibuco, besides a number of brooks. 

Gaaynabo, founded in 1723, in the centre of the department, north of 
Aguas-buenas, south-east of Bayamon, and west Of Trujillo-alto. Pop- 
ulation of the district 4,287. Productions.— Chiefly the lesser fruita, 



Physical, Political, and Industrial.- 171 

and amounting to $42,386, on a capital of $351,708. Rivers. — The 
Guaynabo and the Bayamon, besides innumerable brooks. 

Rio-piedras (also tailed Eoble),* founded in 1774, at the place called 
El Roble, in the interior of the territory which partly surrounds the 
harbor of St. John's, north-west of Trujillo-alto, south of Cangrejos, and 
east of Bayamon. Population of the district 3,576. Productions. — 
Several of the lesser fruits, amounting to $50,830, on a capital of 
$437,203. Rivers. — The Piedras, rising in the heights of Morcelo and 
emptying into the harbor of St. John's, at the place called Puerto-nuevo, 
besides several brooks— the one called Quebrada de Juan Mendez being 
noted for its pure and wholesome waters. 

Trujillo-alto, founded in 1801, near the centre of the department, north 
of Gurabo, south-west of Rio-piedras, and east of Guaynabo. Popula- 
tion of the district 2,749. Productions. — A small quantity of coffee and 
the lesser fruits, amounting to $11,082, on a capital of $126,065. Rivers. 
the Loiza, rising in Cerro-Gordo, in Hato-Grande, besides many smaller 
streams. 

Trnjiilo-bajo, founded in 1817, near the centre of the department, 
north-east of Trujillo-alto, south-east of Rio-piedras, and west of Rio- 
Grande. Population of the district 4,435. Productions.— Chiefly sugar, 
and amounting to $83,112, on a capital of $646,682. Rivers.— The Loiza 
and the Canobanilla, besides several smaller streams. 

Rio-Grande, founded in 1840, near the north coast, east of Trujillo- 
bajo, south-east of Loiza, and west of Luquillo. Population of the dis- 
trict 2,884. Productions. — 'Coffee, etc., amounting to $53,866, on a cap- 
ital of $267,274. Rivers. — Espiritu-Santo, Rio-Grande, Mameyes, and 
Herrera, besides several brooks. 

Losza, founded in 1719, on the north coast, north-west of Rio-Grande 
and Luquillo and north-east of Trujillo-bajo. Population of the district 
3,528. Productions. — Sugar, etc., amounting to $147,157, on a capital 
of $615,320. The forests abound in timber of 6so, ortegon, tortugo, 
cedar, satin-wood, etc, Rivers. — Rio-Grande or Loiza, Espiritu-Santo, 
Canobana, Canobanilla, and Mameyes, besides 13 brooks. The sands of 
the Rio-Grande and its tributaries in this district contain particles of 
iron, steel, and gold. 

Cangrejos, founded in 1760, on an islet connecting with the one on 
which stands the city of St. John's by the bridge of San Antonio, and 
with the mainland by the "bridge of La Aurora, is situated north of Rio- 
piedras, east of St. John's, and west of Loiza. The population, produc- 

* This town is a favorite resort of the people of St. John's (wheuce there is a line of 
stages), and is famous for its excellent bread. The population, prcduction, etc., of 
Cangrejos was included in the census of 1846 in the numbers given for Eio-piedras. 



172 Porto Rico: 

tion, etc., of this district in the census of 1846 were included in the num- 
bers given for Rio-piedras. Productions. — Several of the lesser fruits. 
Rivers. — The Piedras, besides the rivulet of Juan MSndez, which empties 
into the sea through the Caiio de la Aurora. The soil is very sandy, and 
produces an abundance of the fruit called hicacos or cocoa-plums, and 
pajuiles or cashews. It was on the beach of this islet that the British 
landed when they besieged St. John's in 1797. 

Til® Second Department is on the north side of the island, and com- 
prises a villa and seven towns with their corresponding districts, viz. : 
Arecibo, Hatillo, Camuy, Quebradillas, Utuado, Morovis, Ciales, and 
Manati. 

Villa of IrecJbO, the head of the department and port of entry of the 
first class, founded in 1778, on the north coast, north of Utuado, east of 
Hatillo, and north-west of Manati. The town lies about nine and a half 
leagues westward of St. John's, on a tongue of land between the river 
and the sea, and on the western side of the roadstead, which, being open 
to the north wind, affords little shelter to vessels. Population of the dis- 
trict 11,187. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, cattle, etc., amount- 
ing to $356,138, on a capital of $1,650,456. The forests contain trees 
of ortegon, maga, tortugo, zapote, capa, roble (oak), laurel, cojoba, ucar, 
and other fine timber. Rivers. — The Rio-Grrande de Arecibo, rising in 
Adjuntas and emptying into the roadstead of Arecibo, and its tributaries, 
the Tanama, Don Alonzo, and Limon, besides several brooks and drains. 
On the road to Utuado, and about seven miles south-east of the town, at 
a place callod Consejo, is a cave worthy of being visited by the traveler. 
Near the town is the Ojo de Agua, a spring bubbling up out of a cavity 
in the rock, and apparently boiling. The soil of the district is exceed- 
ingly fertile. 

Hatillo, founded in 1823, on the north coast, north-east of Quebra- 
dillas, east of Camuy and west of Arecibo. Population of the district 
5,373. Productions. — Coffee, tobacco, much cattle, etc., amounting to 
$60,334, on a capital of $367,664. Rivers.— The Hatillo, which rises in 
Lares and disembogues in the sea north-west of the town, and the Ta- 
nama, besides two brooks. 

Camuy, founded in 1807, on the north coast, north-east of Quebradillas, 
east of Isabela, and west of Hatillo. Population of the district 5,382. 
Productions. — Coffee, tobacco, etc., amounting to $52,565, on a capital of 
$298,966. Rivers.— The Camuy, which is the Hatillo before-mentioned, 
and the Cibao, which flows into the Guajataca, besides two brooks. 

Q,ncl)radi!las, founded in 1823, near the north coast, south-east of 
Isabela and south-west of Camuy. Population of the district 4,618. 
Productions. — Coffee, tobacco, a little sugar, etc., amounting to $40,516, 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 173 

on a capital of $286,528. Rivers. — -The Guajataca or Tuna, rising in 
Lares and disemboguing in the sea north of Isabela, "besides several 
brooks. The district is famous for the sweetness of its oranges. 

Utuado, founded in 1739, near the centre of the island, north of 
Adjuntas, south of Arecibo, south-east of Lares, and south-west of 
Ciales. Population of the district 7,804. Productions.— Coffee, sugar, 
etc., amounting to $65,566, on a capital of $375,109. The forests, which 
are very thick, afford excellent timber of various kinds. Rivers. — The 
Rio-Grande or Utuado, which is the same that traverses Arecibo, the 
Jayuga, Tanama, Caricaboa, Lesama, Montana, Saliente, Mamey, Hara- 
gan, Jauca, Limon, Yuni, Pellejas, Guanico, Bibi, and Caguanita, all 
emptying into the first, besides numerous smaller streams. There is a 
cave at the place called Caguana, supposed to have been used as a cem- 
etery by the aborigines from the human remains found in it. 

Morovis, founded in 1818, near the centre of the island, north of 
Barros, south of Vega-alta, east of Ciales, and west of Corozal. Popu- 
lation of the district 4,808. Productions. — Chiefly coffee, and amount- 
ing to $32,650, on a capital of $203,855. The forests abound in the best 
timber of the country. Rivers. — The Rio-Grande or Manati, Morovis, 
Unibon, and Carrera, besides several brooks. 

Ciales, founded in 1820, in the interior of the island, northward, west 
of Morovis, south of Manati, and north-east of Utuado. Population of 
the district 3,074. Productions. — Coffee and tobacco in small quantity, 
etc., amounting to $25,057, on a capital of $159,713. Rivers. — The Rio- 
Grande or Manati, besides one brook. 

Manati (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1738, near the 
north coast, north of Ciales, south-east of Arecibo, and west of Vega- 
baja. Population of the district 11,598. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, 
tobacco, etc., amounting to $149,712, on a capital of $997,144. Rivers. 
-The Manati, rising in Barranquitas and emptying into the sea on the 
north. There is a bed of coal in this district on the estate of Mr. Cor- 
nelius H. Kortright. 

The Third Department is situated on the north-west side of the island, 
and comprises one villa and six towns with their corresponding districts, 
viz. : Aguadilla, Isabela, Moca, Villa de la Aguada, Rincon, Pepino, and 
Lares. 

Aguadilla,* the head of the department and port of entry of the first 

* The town is in lat. 18° 24' 57", and long. 67° 8' 15" (as observed by Capt. John 
McKellar, E. N., and 18° 25' 53" and 67° 0' 20" as given by Spanish officers), about 
seven and a half miles north-east by east from Punta San Francisco, and about two 
miles south-south-east of Punta de Peiias Blancas, which is the northernmost point of 
the bay which fronts the town, and affords anchorage for the largest ships with shelter 



174 Porto Rico: 

class, founded in 1775, on the north-west coast, south-west of Isabela 
and north-west of Moca. The town contains several fine dwellings and 
warehouses and a theatre. Population of the district 10,458. Produc- 
tions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, cattle, etc., amounting to $158,041, on a 
capital of $1,080,601. Rivers. — The Chiquito, which rises in the dis- 
trict, and the Culebrinas, rising in Lares — both disemboguing in the sea 
between Aguadilla and Aguada. There are also seven brooks. As pre- 
viously stated, it is supposed that this was the port made by Columbus 
on the discovery of the islands. The town was attacked in 1797 by sev- 
eral British vessels, and in 1822 and 1825 was -partly destroyed by fire. 
In 1825 the battery was taken by pirates, who were, however, soon put 
to flight. 

Isabela (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1819, on the 
north-west coast, north-west of Quebradillas and north-east of Agua- 
dilla. Population of the district 9,405, Productions. — Sugar, coffee, 
tobacco, cattle, etc., amounting to $160,581, on a capital of $725,101. 
Fossil salt is found on a hill near the Guajataca Eiver. Rivers. — The 
Guajataca or Tuna, besides two brooks. 

Moca, founded in 1774, near the coast, north-west of Pepino, south- 
east of Aguadilla, and north-east of Aguada. Population of the district 
8,213. Productions. — Coffee, a little sugar, etc., amounting to $89,837, 
on a capital of $481,837. The forests abound in capa, cedar, ausubo, 
algarrobo or locust, tortugo, and other hard woods, and there is a quarry 
of grindstone in the vicinity. Rivers. — The Culebrinas, rising in Lares 
and emptying into the sea between Aguada and Aguadilla, besides 22 
brooks and several drains. 

Villa de la Aguada, founded in 1506, on the north-west coast, north- 
west of Anasco, north-east of Bincon, and south-west of Moca and Agua- 
dilla. Population of the district 8,103. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, 
tobacco (in small quantity), etc., amounting to $84,116, on a capital of 
$546,884. Rivers. — The Culebrinas, Rio-Grande, and Guayabo, which 

from the sea-breeze ; there being ten fathoms at about three cables length from shore, 
and no less than seven to eight fathoms at a distance of one-fourth of a mile anywhere 
from" shore. Tbe whole bay is perfectly clear with exception of the white reef, Penas 
Blancas, extending from Punta de Palmas, which is the northernmost point of the bay. 
It may be entered easily and safely at any hour of the day, but not at night, when the 
breeze dies away and calm ensues. Tbe sea in general is smooth, with the usual trade- 
wind, but becomes very rough with a norther. There is excellent water to be obtained 
from the Ojo de Agua, which passes through the middle of the town. There. is also a 
good river of fresh water. There is a small battery of three guns commanding the 
north side. The bay is much frequented by vessels bound from Europe to Cuba, both 
on account of facility in obtaining refreshments and to procure pilots for the Old Bahama 
channel. — B 7 unVs Coast Pilot. There are no wharves or piers, and boats are beached. 



Physical, Political, and industrial. 175 

srnpty into the sea, and their tributaries the Culebras and Canas, be- 
sides seven brooks and two drains. Here was the residence of the chief 
Indian cacique, Agueinaba, and it must therefore have been the princi- 
pal place in the island before the Conquest. 

Silicon,* founded in 1770, on the north-west coast, south-west of 
Aguada and north-west of Anasco. Population of the district 4,385. 
Productions. — Cattle (abundant), sugar, a little coffee, etc., amounting 
to $25,623, on a capital of $162,960. Rivers.— The Rio-Grande, which 
separates the town from that of Aguada, besides four brooks and nine 
drains. 

PepiiiO, founded in 1752. in the interior toward the north-west coast, 
north-east of Anasco and north-west of Lares. Population of the dis- 
trict 10,723. Productions. — Coffee, sugar, cotton, etc., amounting to 
$99,546, on a capital of $499,473. Rivers.— The Culebrinas, Guatemala 
(a thermal stream), Guacio, Sonador, Guajataca, Cibao, Arenas, and 
Juncal, besides 36 brooks. 

Lares, founded in 1829, in the interior toward the north-west coast, 
south of Quebradillas and south-east of Pepino. Population of the dis- 
trict 6,035. Productions. — Coffee, sugar, cotton, etc., amounting to 
$58,040, on a capital of $272,803. The district abounds in excellent 
timber. Rivers. — Guajataca, Camuy, Prieto, Guallo, Cedrito, and Cu- 
lebrinas, all having their sources in the district, and the Guacio, which 
rises in Adjuntas, besides 13 brooks. 

Ihc Fourth Department is situated on the west coast of the island, 
and comprises two villas and three towns, with their corresponding 
districts, viz. : Villa de Mayagiies, Aiiasco, Cabo Rojo, Villa de San 
German, and Sabana-Grande. 

Mayagucs,f the head of the department and port of entry of the first 
class, founded in 1760 on the west coast, north of Cabo Rojo, south of 
Anasco, and north-west of Sabana-Grande. The town proper is situated 
at the base of a range of hills and about one mile from the bay, on 
which is a large number of dwellings, fine fire-proof warehouses, etc. 
The road. between is flanked by dwelling-houses and shady sand-box 

* The bay is well sheltered but small, of unequal bottom, and fall of rocks. 

t The custom-house of Mayagiies is in lat. 1S° 13' north and long. 67° 12' 45" west by 
French survey, and 67° 8' 0" on English charts. The anchorage is well sheltered from 
the north and fit for ships, provided they are not very large, there being five fathoms 
water inside the bar. A good knowledge of the entrance is necessary to avoid a shoal 
stretching about half a mile out from Punta del Algarrobo and a reef extending two 
cable-lengths from the little point called Puntilla. The river runs into the northern- 
most part of the bay, and in this estuary schooners and sloops, for the most part, lie up 
during the hurricane season, being the best anchorage on the west coast. The tides 
rise and fall two to four feet— time irregular. — Bhinffs Coast Pilot. 



176 Porto Rico . 

trees. The town, which was almost entirely destroyed by fire the 30th 
of January, 1841 (loss estimated at two or three millions of dollars), 
and again partly burnt down the 2d of January, 1852, contains a num- 
ber of fine two-story brick houses, some of them very large, with iron 
doors and balconies, and furnished in the best style ; a large church, 
town-house, barracks (a large stone edifice with a battery of several 
guns), and a neat square where a military band plays twice a week. 
Water is supplied by a few wells, but chiefly by the river which runs 
close by, and an excellent spring at the foot of the hills above-mentioned. 
The custom-house is fire-proof and a striking building. On the north 
side of the bay is a small battery, and near by is a large iron edifice 
built for the foundry and sugar-refinery mentioned in a previous chap- 
ter. There are several sugar estates in the immediate neighborhood. 
It was here that about four years ago Commander Eandolph, of the 
American sloop-of-war Albany, aided by the consul, Mr. Turull, exacted 
the liberation of the captain and crew of the schooner North Carolina 
(wrecked on the coast), who were detained by the authorities for the 
investigation of the wreck. The population of the district in 1846 was 
20,952. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, etc., amounting in that year to 
$603,780, on a capital of $3,192,274. Rivers.— The Aiiasco, also known 
as the Rio-Grande or Guaurabo, which rises in Cerro Cain, in San Ger- 
man, and disembogues in the sea south-west of that town ; the Caiias, 
Arenas, Mayaguesillo, Guaba, and Mucarabona or Bucarabones, which 
empty into the Anasco ; the Casey, tributary of the Caiias ; the May- 
agues, that empties into the port; the Guanajibo, rising in Cerro Cain 
and emptying into the sea south-west of Mayagiies, and its tributary, 
the Rio-Hondo. There are, moreover, 71 brooks. There is a quarry of 
good building stone near the town, and metallic substances in the hills. 

Anasco* (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1703, on the 
west coast, north of Mayagiies, south-east of Aguada, and south-west 
of Pepino. Population of the district 11,714. Productions. — Sugar, 
coffee, etc., amounting to $286,554, on a capital of $1,128,574. Rivers. — 
The Aiiasco or Guaurabo, which rises in Cerro Cain, in San German, 
and disembogues in the sea south-west of the town; its tributaries the 
Casey, Caiias, Humata, and Daguey, and the Rio-Hondo, which empties 
into the Guanajibo, besides 36 brooks. This is a flourishing and fertile 
district, and was also a place of note among the aborigines, who called 
it Yagueca. Pyrites and marquesites are found in the mountains. 

€abO Rojof (a port of entry of the second class), founded in 1771, on 

* The bay is fit for vessels of any size, and is completely sheltered from the north 
winds, 
t Puerto Real de Cdbo Bojo, about five and a half miles south of Punta de Guana* 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 177 

the west coast, south of Mayagiies and west of San German. Population 
of the district 17,892. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, cotton, a little 
tobacco, etc., amounting to $288,093, on a capital of $1,100,558. 
Rivers.— The Viejo and the Estero, which rise in Cerro Cain, in San 
German, and empty into the Guanajibo, besides several brooks and a 
number of drains. This district contains a quarry of laminous stone, 
and the salt-pits of Sierra de Penones, which produced 981 fanegas in 
1851. 

Villa de San German, founded in 1511, on the west coast, inland, 
west of Sabana-Grande and east of Cabo Rojo. Population of the dis- 
trict 44,402. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, a little cotton, and tobacco, 
etc., amounting to $359,817, on a capital of $2,371,181. Rivers.— Rio- 
Grande or Guanajibo, rising in Cerro Cain, in the district ; its tribu- 
taries, the Cruavo, Miraflores, Maunabo, Cain, Oconuco, Duey, Rosario, 
Estero, and Viejo ; the Prieto, Guallo, Toro, Guaba, Lajas, Zapo, and 
Bucarabones or Mucarabona, which empty into the Anasco River, be- 
sides many brooks and several drains and lagoons. There are good 
grounds for believing that there are two veins of gold in the district — 
one in the hills that rise from the banka of the Oconuco River, and the 
other in a rivulet at the place called San Pedro. This district is mostly 
lowland, and therefore generally known as La Bajura. It is famous for 
fine sweetmeats (generally made by the women) and for embroideries.* 

Sabana-Grande, founded in 1814, on the west coast, inland, east of 
San German and south-east of Mayagiies. Population of the district 
4,935. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, a little cotton, and tobacco, etc., 
amounting to $31,715, on a capital of $224,375. Rivers.— The Rio- 
Grande, which empties into the sea under the name of Guanajibo ; the 
Canas, Cruavo, Miraflores, Coco, and Subsua, besides many brooks. 

The Fifth Department is situated on the south side of the island 
and comprises two villas and nine towns, with their corresponding dis- 
tricts, viz. : Villa de Ponce, Barros, Adjuntas, Yauco, Guayanilla, Pen- 
uelas, Juana Diaz, Santa Isabel de Coamo, Villa de Coamo, Aybonito, 
and Barranquitas. 



jibo, is a fine harbor, nearly circular in figure, and about three-fourths of a mile in 
extent from west to east. In the centre there is 16 feet of water and 3 fathoms at the 
entrance, which is by a very narrow channel near the south point of the harbor. 
From the north point a great reef stretches out, which, doubling Oayo Fonduco, enda 
at Pimta de Veras. South-south-west, about two miles from the southernmost point, 
is Punta de Guaniquilla, the north point of the Bay of Boqueron, which is so full of 
reefs as not to allow anchorage. Punta de Melones, the south point, is distant from 
the first about two and a half miles.— BlunVs Coast Pilot. 
* Especially towels, some of which are so elaborately worked as to cost $20 to $80. 



178 Porto Rico: 

Ponce,* the head of the department and a port of entry of the first 
class, founded in 1752, on the south coast, east of Guayanilla, south- 
east of Penuelas, and south-west of Juana Diaz. The town is about 
one and a half miles distant from the bay, with straggling houses be- 
tween, and separated by an unbridged, shallow stream, which becomes 
a torrent after heavy rains. The church, which is one of the finest in 
the island, is surrounded by a large square and fragrant acacia trees. 
Around this square are fine brick houses two stories high, but the rest 
are poor-looking one-story wood houses. The barracks is a large stone 
edifice, and serves as a fortress. The buildings on the bay are chiefly 
fire-proof warehouses and the dwellings of the merchants, many well 
built and in the European style, though* generally but one story high. 
Population of the district 21,466. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, 
etc., amounting to $803,607, on a capital of $3,989,382. Rivers.— The 
Jacaguas and the Inabon, both rising in Utuado and emptying into the 
sea south of Juana Diaz ; the Bucana, also rising in Utuado, and the 
San Patricio in Acljuntas under the name of Corcho, both emptying into 
the eastern side of the bay of Ponce ; the Portugues or Ponce, which 
rises in Adjuntas, and the Marueno and Caiias, the three emptying into 
the western side of the bay. There are also several brooks and drains. 
In this district there is a quarry of white stone and several hot mineral 
springs in the ward of Quebrada Domingo. The town was almost en- 
tirely destroyed by fire the 27th of February, 1820. 

Barros, founded in 1825, on the north of the department and in the 
centre of the island, south of Morovis and north-west of Barranquitas. 
Population of the district 2,810 Productions.— Coffee, etc., amounting 
to $11,416, on a capital of $87,065. The forests contain many kinds 
of timber for building and cabinet-work. Rivers. — The Orocovis and 
Barros^which rise in the district ; the Bauta, which originates in the 
hills between the town and Ciales, and the Lamas, rising in Barran- 
quitas : all emptying into the Kio- Grande of Manati, besides many 
smaller streams. 

Adjuntas, founded in 1815, on the south coast, inland, north-east of 
Penuelas, south of Utuado, east of Sabana-Grande, and north-west of 
Juana Diaz. Population of the district 3,070. Productions. — Coffee, 
etc., amounting to $20,164, on a capital of $128,270. The forests abound 
in cedar, capa, oak, ortegon, guaraguao, higuerillo, laurel, canelo (a 
species of cinnamon), and other trees. Rivers. — The Portugues or Ponce 

* The town and harbor are about five leagues east of Guanica. Land low near the 
water's edge and covered with mangrove bushes and some cocoa-nut trees. There is 
a low, sandy island and a reef near the entrance of the port. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 179 

and the Corcho, under the name of San Patricio, both of which disem- 
bogue in the district of Ponce; the Saltillo, Cienagas, Pellejas, and 
Tanama, which empty into the Arecibo River; the Vacas, a tributary 
of the Jacaguas of Juana Diaz, and the Viejas, Guilarte, Limani, Cidra, 
and Guallo, which, under other names, disembogue in the district of 
Anasco. All these have their sources in the district, which is also 
watered by 218 smaller streams, and in this respect is probably without 
a parallel. 

Yaueo,* founded in 1756, near the south coast, west of Guayanilla, 
south-east of San German, and south-west of Pe'nuelas. Population^ 
the district 11,468. Productions.— Sugar, etc., amounting to $98,138, 
on a capital of $459,987. Rivers.— The Yauco, which rises in the dis- 
trict and disembogues in the sea south of Guayanilla ; the Subsua, which, 
confluent with the CaSas of Sabana- Grande, empties into the port of 
Guanica, and the Duey, tributary of the Yauco, besides several brooks. 
Guayanilla (a port of entry of the second class), founded in 1833, on 
the south coast, east of Yauco, south-west of Penuelas, and west of Ponce. 
Population of the district 5,722. Productions.— Sugar, coffee, tobacco, 
etc. , amounting to $94,502, on a capital of $637,572. The forests abound 
in u'car. yaiti, cojoba, cedar, ausubo, capa, and other trees. Rivers.— The 
Guayanilla, rising in the Guilarte Mountain, and the Yauco, both empty- 
ing into the sea south of the town. There are also a brook and several 
drains. The place was invaded in 1797 by the British, who were re- 
pulsed by the inhabitants, and in 1838 and 1839 the town was partly 
burnt down. 

Penuelas (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1793, near the 
south coast, north-west of Ponce, south-west of Adjuntas, and north-east 
of Yauco. Population of the district 7,561. Productions.— Sugar, 
coffee, cotton, tobacco, etc., amounting to $67,663, on a capital of 

* The harbor of Guanica, a port of entry of the third class, lies immediately west 
of Yauco, 16 miles west of Ponce and about 15 miles east of the Morrillos de Cabo 
Rojo. " It is the best anchorage on the south coast, and fit for vessels of all classes, 
with from six and a half to three fathoms water, which latter depth is found in its 
interior. The bottom is sand and gravel. The mouth of the harbor is in the centre 
of the bay, formed by the Fronton (cliff or bluff) de la Brea on the west, and Punta 
Picua on the east,' near which last are the two islets of Cana-gorda, between which 
and Punta de la Meseta, which is the east point of the entrance of the harbor, there is 
a reef which reaches out from the coast about a mile and nearly forms a circle, uniting 
at one end with the islets and at the other with Punta de la Meseta ; there is also a 
rocky shoal stretching out about half a mile from it. Between Fronton de la Brea 
and Punta de los Pescadores, which last is the west point of the mouth of the harbor, 
the coast forms another bay, the mouth of which is shut by a reef, that running out 
from Punta de los Pescadores, ends on the south side of the bay, about a mile within 
the Fronton de la Brea."— BlunVs Coant Pilot. 



180 Porto Ei 



co: 



$259,644. Rivers. — The Barreal, Guayanos, Yaya, and Jobos, which 
empty together into the sea south of the town, taking in their course the 
names of the various districts they traverse. There are also several 
brooks. 

Jisasia Diaz, founded in 1798, near the south coast, north-east of Ponce 
and west of the Villa de Coamo. Population of the district 7,616. Pro- 
ductions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, etc., amounting to $106,929, on a cap- 
ital of $756,583. Cattle abound. Rivers. — The Jacaguas, Guallo, and 
Toabaca, which empty into the sea south of the town ; the Escalabrado, 
emptying into the sea south-east of the town, and the Inabon, which sep- 
arates the district from that of Ponce, besides several brooks. There is 
a quarry of white stone in the vicinity. 

Santa Isabel de Coamo, also called Coamo- Abajo (a port of entry of 
the third class), founded in 1841, on the south coast, south of Villa de 
Coamo and south-east of Juana Diaz. Population of the district 991. 
Productions. — Sugar, etc., amounting to $25,284, on a capital of 
$202,116. Rivers. — The Piedras-blancas and the Coamo, which empties 
into the sea south-west of the town. There are some fine hot mineral 
springs two and one-third leagues north-east of the town, which are re- 
sorted to by invalids. 

Villa de Coamo, also called Coamo- Arriba, founded in 1646, on the south 
coast, inland, north of Santa Isabel, east of Juana Diaz, and south-west 
of Aybonito. Population of the district 3,805. Productions. — Coffee, 
tobacco, etc., amounting to $36,122, on a capital of $212,025. Rivers. 
The Coamo, which rises in the district and empties into the sea south- 
west of Santa Isabel, its tributaries the Minas and the Cullon, the Esca- 
labrado and the Toabaca, which disembogue near Juana Diaz, and the 
Jueyes, which empties into the sea south of the town of Salinas, besides 
29 brooks. 

Aybosiito, founded in 1822, on the north of the department in the cen- 
tre of the island, north-east of the Villa de Coamo and south-east of Bar- 
ranquitas. Population of the district 3,059. Productions. — Coffee, etc., 
amounting to $29,763, on a capital of $216,477. Rivers.— The La Plata, 
rising in Cayey, in Cerro-pelado ; its tributary the Honduras or Usabon, 
and the Cullon, besides several brooks. 

Barranqmtas, founded in 1803, on the north of the department in the 
centre of the island, north-west of Aybonito, south-east of Barros, and 
south-west of Sabana del Palmar. Population of the district 3,600 
Productions. — Cattle, coffee, etc., amounting to $19,296, on a capital of 
$179,092. Pavers. — The Usabon, tributary of the La Plata ; the Pinona. 
which rises in the district in the hill called La Torrecilla and flows into 
the Usabon ; the Bio- Hondo, another tributary of the La Plata, and ris- 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 181 

ing in the district ; the Barrancas and the Cunabon, which rise in the 
Torrecilla and empty into the Manati, besides several brooks. 

The Sixth Department is situated on the eastern extremity of the 
island, southward, and comprises nine towns with their corresponding 
districts, viz. : Humacao, Naguabo, Ceiba, Fajardo, Luquillo, Las Pie- 
dras, Patillas, Maunabo, and Yabucoa. 

Humacao, the head of the department and port of entry of the second 
class, founded in 1793, on the east coast, north of Yabucoa, south-east 
of Las Piedras, and south-west of Naguabo. Population of the district 
6,165. Productions.— Sugar, a little coffee, etc., amounting to $116,916, 
on a capital of $670,123. The district abounds in cattle. Rivers.— The 
Humacao, which rises south of the town of Las Piedras and empties into 
the sea south-west of Humacao ; the Anton Ruiz, rising in the district, 
and the Candelero, which rises in the south in Cerro-pelado and empties 
into the sea by the Boca de Candelero, south-west of the town. There 
are also many brooks. Prom some meteorological cause or other, phe- 
nomena in animal life are frequently met with in this district and its 
neighborhood, such as dwarfed men, distorted animals, etc. 

Naguabo (a port of entry of the first class), founded in 1794, on the 
east coast, north-east of Humacao and south-west of Ceiba. Population 
of the district 5,841. Productions.— Sugar, cattle, a little coffee, etc., 
amounting to $83,049, on a capital of $643,888. In 1851 nearly 6,000 
beeves were shipped from this port for the consumption of the neighbor- 
ing French and Danish islands. The forests abound in ausubo, yellow 
and black cojoba, algarrobo, tachuelo, capa, and other hard wood, and 
wild hogs are sometimes met with. Rivers.— The Naguabo, called Blanco 
at its rise ; its tributaries the Cubui and Prieto, and the Santiago and 
Daguao, all rising in the Luquillo mountains and emptying into the sea 
south-east of the town. There are also many smaller streams. 

La €eiba, founded in 1838, on the east coast, north-east of Naguabo 
and south of Fajardo. Population of the district 2,024. Productions. 
— Sugar, a little tobacco, cattle, etc., amounting to $37,608, on a cap- 
ital of $230,216. Rivers.— The Daguao and the Fajardo, besides sev- 
eral brooks. 

Fajardo (a port of entry of the second class), founded in 1774, on the 
east coast near the headland of San Juan, north of Ceiba and south-east 
of Luquillo. Population of the district 5,009. Productions. — Sugar, 
cattle, etc., amounting to $113,901, on-a capital of $475,807. The for- 
ests afford ausubo, tabanuco, masa, granadillo, guaraguao, and other 
useful timber. Rivers. — The Fajardo, which rises in the Luquillo mount- 
ains and disembogues in the sea on the south of the port ; there are also 
eight smaller streams. The sands of the river are auriferous. Nearly 



182 Porto Rico: 

the whole town was burnt down on the 29th of April, 1832, and the 11th 
of April, 1833. 

Luquillo (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1797, on the 
north-east coast, north-west of Fajardo and east of Rio-Grande. Popu- 
lation of the district 2,918. Productions. — Sugar, etc., amounting to 
$46,123, on a capital of $254,429. The forests abound in tabanuco, 
ausubo, laurel, sabina, algarrobo, Gear, and other trees. Rivers. — The 
Mameyes, Sabana, Pita-jaya, and Juan Martin, which rise in the mount- 
ains on the south of the district. The first and last empty into the sea 
on the north of the town, and the others together on the east. There 
are also 22 brooks. The sands of the streams are auriferous, and small 
nuggets of gold have been found in the Luquillo mountains. 

Las Piedras, founded in 1801, on the east coast, inland, north-east of 
Hato-Grande or San Lorenzo, north-west of Humacao, south-west of 
Naguabo, and south-east of Juncos. Population of the district 4,801. 
Productions. — Coffee, tobacco, etc., amounting to $24,025, on a capital 
of $173,569. Rivers. — The Gurabo, which rises in the Luquillo mount- 
ains and empties into the Rio-Grande of Loiza, and its tributaries the 
Humacao and the Valencia, besides a large number of smaller streams. 

Patilfas (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1811, on the 
south-east coast, north-east of Guayama and south-west of Maunabo. 
Population of the district 5,734. Productions. — Sugar, tobacco, cattle, 
etc., amounting to $90,119, on a capital of $579,788. . The forests are 
well stocked with cojoba, pendola, tortugo, tachuelo, maga, cedar, jaca- 
na, jaya, palo de vaca, yaiti, carne de doncella, and many other trees 
affording excellent timber and cabinet-wood. Large masses of rock- 
crystal are found in the Mala-pascua mountain. The town was half 
burnt down in 1841. 

Manna!)©, founded in 1799, on the south-east coast, north-east of Pa- 
tillas and south of Yabucoa. Population of the district 2,633. Produc- 
tions. — Coffee, tobacco, a little sugar, etc., amounting to $25,618, on a 
capital of $209,688. The forests abound in various fine timber. Rivers. 
— The Maunabo, rising in the mountain ridge which separates the dis- 
trict from those of San Lorenzo and Yabucoa, and emptying into the sea 
on the south of the town. There are many brooks besides. 

Yatoracoa, founded in 1793, on the south-east coast, north of Maunabo 
and south of Humacao. Population of the district 6,468. Productions. 
— Sugar, a little coffee, cattle, etc., amounting to $96,818, on a capital 
of $768,601. Rioers. — The Guayancs, rising in the mountain that sep- 
arates the district from that of San Lorenzo, receives the Ingenio and 
Limones, and empties into the sea on the east of the town, besides 38 
smaller streams. 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 183 

The Seventh Department is situated inland toward the east coast, and 
comprises ten towns with their corresponding districts, viz. : Guayama, 
Hato-Grande, Juncos, Gurabo, Caguas, Aguas-buenas, Sabana del Pal- 
mar, Cidra, Cayey, and Salinas. 

Gaayania,* the head of the department and a port of entry of the first 
class, founded in 1736, on the south coast, south-east of Cayey and south- 
west of Patillas. The part of the town situated on the bay is called Ar- 
royo, the town proper being some distance inland. Arroyo contains 
some fine dwellings and warehouses, and it is contemplated to erect a 
church there. Population of the district 12,244. Productions. — Sugar, 
etc., amounting to $616,295, on a capital of $3,801,864. The forests 
abound in ficar, algarrobo, capa, cojoba, tachuelo, etc. Rivers. — The 
Aguamani, which rises in the Carite mountain, north-east of the town, 
and empties into the sea on the south ; the BAo-Seeo, called Charcas at 
its source, north of the port of Jobos, and spreading its waters over the 
land near said port, and the Yaurel, which rises north of Arroyo and 
disembogues in the sea south-east of the town under the name of Nigua. 
There are also 41 brooks. The prosperity of this district, and of nearly 
the whole south coast, is greatly retarded by the drought that usually 
prevails there. 

Hato-Grande or San Lorenzo, founded in 1811, inland toward the east 
coast, south-west of Las Piedras and east of Cidra. Population of the 
district 6,672. Productions. — Sugar, a little coffee, etc., amounting to 
$63,832, on a capital of $275,701. Rivers.— The Rio-Grande or Loiza, 
which rises in Cerro-Gordo, south of the district, and empties into the 
sea north of Loiza, and its tributaries the Majaguas, rising in the Cule- 
bras mountain which separates the district from that of Caguas, and the 
Cayaguas, which rises in Yabucoa, besides 75 smaller streams. The 
waters of some of the brooks are hot. 

Jnncos, founded in 1797, toward the east coast, inland, north-east of 
Hato-Grande, nor|h-west of Las Piedras and south-east of Gurabo. Pop- 
ulation of the district 3,584. Productions.— Sugar, coffee, cattle, etc., 
amounting to $30,906, on a capital of $309,142. Rivers.— The Valen- 
ciano, rising in the Guineo mountain, south-east of the town, and the 

* The anchorage is formed by a shoal two or three miles in length and three or four 
miles from the coast, and has no other shelter from the sea breeze than the shoal. 
Vessels usually anchor in four fathoms one mile from the shore. The soundings of the 
entrance vary from five to seven and eight fathoms, gradually shoaling toward the 
Shore. The land by the water side is low, but up the country high and uneven.— 
JSlunfs Coast Pilot. 

The port of Jobos also serves for the export trade of the district. It is a port of entry 
of the third class, and one of the best in the island, being, in fact, a regular wet-dock, 
but the entrance affords only 14 to 15 feet draft. Ti e bottom throughout is soft mud. 



184 Porto Rico : 

Gurabo, rising on the north-east, both emptying into the Rio-Grande of 
Loiza, and there are besides 49 brooks. 

Criiratoo, founded in 1815, inland, toward the east coast, north-west of 
Juncos, south of Trujillo-alto, and north-east of Caguas. Population of 
the district 3,876. Productions. — Little sugar and coffee, cattle, etc., 
amounting to $24,816, on a capital of $167,434. Rivers.— The Rio- 
Grande or Loiza, which rises in Cerro-Gordo, in Hato-Grande, and its 
tributary the Gurabo, which rises in Juncos, besides 29 smaller streams. 

Caguas, a considerable town and seat of the judicature of the depart- 
ment, founded in 1775, inland, toward the east coast, north-east of Sa- 
bana del Palmar, south-west of Gurabo, and south-east of Aguas-buenas. 
Population of the district 7,808. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, cattle, 
etc., amounting to $91,684, on a capital of $722,347. The forests abound 
in moca, granadillo, laurel, guaraguao, oak, and many other trees. 
Rivers. — The Rio-Grande or Loiza and its tributaries; the Turabo, 
which rises in the same district, in Cerro-pelado ; the Caguitas, rising in 
Sierra de Caguas ; the Bairoa, whose source is in the ward De las Mulas, 
in Aguas-buenas, and the Cana which rises in the Jagueyes ward, in 
Aguas-buenas ; the Quebradillas, rising westward near the district of 
Cidra and emptying into the Turabo ; and the Caibonito, rising in the 
Alto de los Naranjos, in the district, and emptying into the Caguitas , 
besides 40 brooks. There is a quarry of marble in the vicinity. 

Ag&as-Baeoas, founded in 1838, in the north of the department, north- 
west of Caguas and south of Guaynabo. Population of the district 3,912. 
Productions. — Coffee, etc., amounting to $16,718, on a capital of 
$110,111. Rivers. — The Bayamon, rising in Cidra and emptying into 
the sea near St. John's, and the Caguitas, Bairoa, and Cana, which 
empty into the Loiza ; besides 21 brooks. In the ward of Sumidero, on 
the south of the town, is a very large cave whose limits have not been 
ascertained, but it is supposed to extend as far as the town of Sabana 
del Palmar. # 

Sabana del Palmar, founded in 1826, in the east of the department, 
near the centre of the island, north-east of Barranquitas, south of Na- 
ranjito, north-west of Cidra, and south-west of Caguas. Population of 
the district 2,533. Productions. — Tobacco of excellent quality, known 
as " Tabaco de Cojnerio," coffee, etc., amounting to $9,422, on a cap- 
ital of $96,881. Rivers. — The La Plata, which rises in Cerro-pelado, in 
Cayey, and its tributaries the Arroyato and Rio-Hondo, besides six 
brooks. 

Cidra, founded in 1809, in the east of the department near the centre 
of the island, north of Cayey, south-east of Sabana del Palmar, east of 
Barranquitas, and west of Hato-Grande. Population of the district 



Physical, Political, and Industrial. 185 

5,926. Productions— Cofiee, etc., amounting to $23,850, on a capital of 
$219,944. The forests abound in an&n, capa, oak, pendolo, maria, and 
many other trees affording fine timber. Rivers. — The Rio-Grande or 
La Plata, which rises in Cerro-pelado, in Cayey ; its tributary the Ar- 
royato, and the Bayamon, both rising in the district, and the latter 
emptying into. the harbor of St. John's. There are also 21 brooks. 

Cayey, founded in 1774, in the south of the department, inland, north- 
west of Guayama, south of Cidra, and south-east of Aybonito. Popula- 
tion of the district 5,201. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, cattle, etc., 
amounting to $53,435, on a capital of $457,719. The forests abound in 
cedar, capa, guaraguao, ausubo, and other timber. Rivers. — The Rio- 
Grande or Cayey, which is the same with the La Plata, which rises in 
Cerro-pelado, in the district; the Guavate, with the same source; the 
Carite and Maton, which rise in other mountains in the district and 
empty into the Rio-Grande, and the Jajome and Lapa, which also orig- 
inate in the district and empty into the Salinas. There are besides 84 
smaller streams. The finest valley landscapes can be viewed from the 
Cayey mountain, which is traversed by the main road. 

Salinas* (a port of entry of the second class), founded in 1851, near 
the south coast, south-west of Cayey, north-east of Santa Isabel de 
Coamo, and west of Guayama. The population, production, etc., were 
included by the census in the numbers given for Guayama, of which dis- 
trict it was a ward until 1852. Productions.— Sugar and coffee in 
small quantity, etc. Rivers. — The Lapas and Majadas, which rise in 
Cayey, and the Jueyes, both disemboguing in the sea south of the town ; 
besides eight brooks and numerous drains. The town and district de- 
rive their name from the salt-ponds (salinas) south of the former. 

Tlie Esgiith Department is the island of Vieques, already described. 



* Salinas is a good place to lie in. There are four or five fathoms anchorage in good 
ground, and a good watering-place afforded by a kind of lagoon near the water-side. 
—BlunVs Coast Pilot. 



STATISTICS OF PORTO RICO. 



EXPORTATION FROM THE ISLAND OF PORTO RICO. 

Sugar, Molasses, Coffee, Tobacco, Cotton, Hides, 

Quintals. Gallons. Quintals. Quintals. Quintals. Quintals. 

1828 197,886.. 374,174.. 111,610.. 23,965.. 4,782.. 5,178 

1829. 277,154.. 377,443.. 121,870.. 23.771.. 4,820.. 4,191 

1830 340,164.. 465,889.. 169,119.. 34,902.. 4,978.. 4,487 

1831 307.733. . 823,420. . 104,858. . 49,417. . 4,526. . 4.76S 

1S32 346,534.. 1,187.244.. 168,181.. 36,024.. 5,373.. 3,887 

1S33 .'. 342,794.. 1,216,770.. 102,862. 49,526.. 8,780.. 4.452 

1834 353.722.. 1,171,796.. 182,305.. 40,568.. 5,749.. 5,627 

1835 43S.574 . . 1,391,593 . . 72,623 . . 57,151 . . 7,409 . . 6,006 

1836 498,889.. 1,724,661.. 52,772.. 49,542.. 19.522.. 8,686 

1837* 458,642.. 1,815,062.. 93,453.. 21,042.. 50,037.. 13,359 

1S38 691, 3S5.. 3,203,243.. 95,546.. 23,866.. 12,408.. 5,376 

1839 692,458.. 3,311,719.. 85,384.. 43,203.. 11,840.. 6,7S6 

1840 817,937.. 3,033,034.. 124,501.. 42,274.. 6,212.. 6,074 

1S41 ''845,571.. 3,148,755.. 89,218.. 54,067.. 8,180.. 5,440 

1842 919,069.. 3,037,725.. 128,789.. 66,939.. 8,821.. 5,670 

1843 710,399.. 2,230,115.. 77,563 .. 74,531 .. 3,505 . . 5,097 

1844 811,606.. 3,068(870.. 125,017.. 63,587.. 5,239. 6.518 

1845 929.044.. 3,742,760.. 67,958.. 75,186.. 4.6S2. 5,772 

1S46 877,400. . 3,444.152. . 104.739. . 39,345. . 2,949. 6,89S 

1347 1,041,782.. 4,487,021.. 134,664.. 22,706.. 3,623. 6,771 

1848 l,0l2,9S7. . 3.867.474. . 96,131. . 24,574. . 1,824. 7,45f 

1849 1,007,425.. 4,328,135. v 86,153.. 24,305.. 3,040. 5,191 

1850 1,121,294.. 4,905,313.. 117,S37.. 29,733.. 2,415. 5,44", 

1851 1.184,163.. 4,S27,400.. 121,119.. 64,781... 3,666. 6,327 

1852 937,326. . 3,717,831. . 124,593. . 58,070. . 2,604. 4.619 

1853.... 1,156,662.. 4,751,842.. 137,815.. 20,995.. 1,513. *6,636 

In 1852. N Hides. 

To the United States 726,688.. 3,066,564.. 2,206.. -,..-_... 15 

" Great Britain, Cowes, etc. 53,218.. 134,604.. 30,534.. 2.180.. — .. — 

« British North America.. 52,588.. 514.847.. 482.. — .. — .. 45 

"Germany 30,549.. — .. 31,139.. 53,758.. 754. 47 

" France. 56,329.. — .. 4,000.. — .. — .. — 

"Genoa and Trieste 2,286.. — .. 27,128.. — .. 970.. 402 

" Spain and elsewhere ... . 15,666.. 1,816.. 29,109.. 2,132.. SS0. 4,110 

937,324.. 3,717.831.. 124,598.. 53,070.. 2,604.. 4,619 

* The returns of 1837 include $643,000 worth of cotton, hides, and coffee re-exported from~ond, the 
quantities of which are not recorded. 



Statistics of Porto Rico. 



187 



EXPORTATION— Continued. 

Sugar, Molasses, Coffee, Tobacco, Cotton, 

In 1852. Quintals. Gallons. Quintals. Quintals. Quintals. 

From St. Johu's 73,162.. 106,233.. 15,153.. 2,062.. — .. 

" Arecibo 103,659.. 286,9%.. 5,332.. 33,391.. TO.. 

" Aguadilla 19,001.. 7,680.. 25,222.. 11,663.. 1,011.. 

" Mayagues 195,201 . . 727,020 . . 58,988 . . — . . 1.523 . . 

" Ponce 241,519.. 1,071,489.. 17.264.. 6.832.. — '.. 

" Guayama 203,382.. 1,192,921.. 2,639.. 4,122.. — .. 

" Humacao, etc 101,400.. 325,526.. — .. —..—.. 

937,324.. 3,717,831.. 124,598.. 5S,070.. 2,604.. 



Hides, 
No. 

2,S20 

47 

208 

1,544 



COST OF SUGAR AND MOLASSES. 



Market Price. 
Macuquina. 

$2 50 per 100 lbs. Spanish $2 



Round Money. 



Sterling, 
s. (I. 

.Per 112 lbs. Eng. $2 95f or 11 7} 



2 75 

3 00 
3 25 

3 50 

3 75 

4 00 
4 25 
4 50 

4 75 

5 00 



2 95}. 

3 21*. 

3 47| . 

3 74 . 

4 00}. 
4 26*". 
4 53f. 

4 79 . 

5 04}. 
5 31 . 

Cents. 



3 24 
3 53 

3 81f 

4 lOf 
4 394- 
4 6S} 

4 97 

5 26 



12 81 

13 10 

14 llf 



16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
5 54$ " 21 



5 S31 



Cent.= 



22 lOf 



8 cents per gallon 14 12 10 gallons per cwt. 141 2 or 5 

5 



15 17. 

16 22. 

17 27. 

18 32. 

19 37. 

20 42. 

21 27. 

22 45. 



151 7 
162 2 
172 7 
183 2 
193 7 
204 2 
212 7 
224 5 



6* 
llf 

6 4| 

6 94 

7 21 

7 n 

8 Oi 
8 51 
8 10* 



The above calculations are based upon Sterling being at $4 SO Pound money, and 
Patriot Doubloons at $17 Macuquina each. 

Note.— The above table corresponds to St. John's, but, with a trifling difference in 
local charges, may be applied to the other markets in the island. The charges on 
coffee at Mayagues, which is the chief market for it, is, per 100 lbs. Spanish, about 871- 
cents in bag;!, and 621 cents in casks, exclusive of commission of 2J per cent, on cost 
and charges. 

EXTRACT OF THE TARIFF OF PORTO RICO, FROM NOV. 1st., 1851. 

Articles and Valuation. — Class 1. — Flour, $12 50 per barrel. 

Class 2. — Corn meal, $4 per bar., and 16 per pun. ; rye flour, $4 per bar. 

Clnss 3.— Beans, 3c. per lb. ; beer and ale, $3 per dpz. ; bread, pilot and navy, 6c. per 
lb. ; candles, tallow, 12c. per lb. ; crackers, biscuit, 71c. per lb. ; dates, 121c per lb. ; 
figs, 4c. per lb. ; hams, American, 9c. per lb. — other, 15c. per lb. ; herrings, smoked 



188 Statistics of Porto Rico. 

87c. per 100 ; horses, geldings, $150 each ; mules, $51 each ; oats, l|c. per lb. ; onions, 
2c, per lb. ; pepper, black Castile, 12c. per lb. ; prunes, in boxes, 5c. per lb. ; rice, 4|c. 
per lb. ; raisins, 6c. per lb. ; soap, 10c. per lb. ; wine, common Bordeaux, $28 per cask 
and $3 50 per box — Marseilles, red, $20 per cask and $3 per box — Cape, Ehine, and 
Champagne, $8 per doz — Madeira, $3 75 per arroba and $6 50 per doz. 

Glass 4— Beef, pickled, $9 per bar.; fish, dry, 3c. per lb. ; hoops, wood, $25 per M; 
hogsheads* $3 each — $9 per 4 nest— $8 per 3 nest ; herrings, pickled, $3 per bar. ; lum- 
ber, per M ft., pitch pine, $20— white pine, $15 ; mackerel, $4 per bar. ; pork, pickled, 
$15 per bar. ; shooks, with or without heads, $1 each; staves, rough, $12 per M; sal- 
mon, pickled, 9c. per lb. ; shingles, $3 per M; truss hoops, $6 per doz. 

Glass 5. — Apples, $3 per bar. ; empty bags, $2 25 per doz. — do. barrels, 50c. each ; 
beets, 2c. per lb. ; beef, jerked, United States, 7c. per lb — Buenos Ayres and Brazil, 6c. 
per lb. — other, 5c. per lb. ; bricks, fire, $16 per M ; butter, 16c. per lb. ; cassia, 25c. 
per lb. ; cloves, 37ic. per lb. ; cheese, European, 16c. per lb.— other, 10c. per lb. ; candles, 
sperm, 32c. per lb.— composition, 28c. per lb. ; earthenware, common, in crates, 75c. per 
foot; lard, 10c. per lb. ; nails, iron, 6c. per lb. ; nuts, 6c. per lb. ; oil, sperm and linseed, 
75c. per gal. — fish, 50c. per gal. ; pepper, Guinea, 25c. per lb. — Tobasco, 8c. per lb. ; 
ploughs, large, $25 each— small, $6 each ; pitch and tar, $3 per bar. ; potatoes, 1^-c. per 
lb. ; paints in oil, 8c. per lb. ; tallow, 7ic. per lb. ; tongues, smoked, 7c. per lb. ; grind- 
stones, $1 50 each ; turpentine, oil, 12|c. per gal.— spirits, $1 per gal. 

Class 6.— Befined sugar, 18c. per lb.— white, unrefined, 9c. per lb. ; cigars, foreign, 
$3 per M— Cuba, $10 per M ; tobacco, Virginia leaf, 8c. per lb.— chewing, 10c. per lb. 
—St. Domingo leaf, 12c. per lb.— Cuba, 20c. per lb. 

Glass 7.— Mineral coal, Eoville ploughs, bark for tanning, horses (stallions), mares, 
asses, ice, leeches, temper-lime, gold and silver in bars, ingots, and coin. The follow- 
ing for sugar manufactories : gudgeons— if Spanish, grate-bars, doors, and mouth-plates 
for furnaces; cogwheels and rollers, iron or copper pans, clarifiers and molasses tanks, 
iron skimmers and ladles, duplicate pieces for steam and cattle mills. The following 
if from Spain under Spanish flag: steam sugar-mills, machines for cleaning rice. and 
cotton, winnowing coffee or shelling corn, stills, manure, seed, and plants. 

N.B. Foreign steam sugar-mills, manure, plants and seed, stills, and agricultural 
machines pay 1 per cent, on valuation. 

, Classes. 1 . 

Foreign Goods. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 

Under foreign flag 43^ p. c... 29* p. c... 29 p. c... 23* p. c... 23 p. c. 

" Spanish " 35* " ... 21* " ... 20 " . . . 17* " ... 16 " 

« « « from Spain 23* " ... 17* " ... 20 " ... 14* " ... 16 " 

Spanish Goods. 

Under foreign flag 33 " ... 19 " ... 15 " ... 15 " ... 12 " 

» Spanish" 6f "... 6| " ... 7 " ... 6* " ... 7 " 



Foreign Goods. <■ Sugar. > 

Unrefined white. Refined 



-Classi 



unrennea wniio. lxuuiieu. 

Under foreign flag , , r ( Cigars $2 per M . .Free 

« sp an i s h « f 4c. per lb. .. 8c. lb. -j Toba , Qj yirginia leaf, 4c. lb. . . •• 

« " " from Spain 2c. " ..4c.".. " chewing.... 5c. " .. « 

Spanish Goods. 

Under foreign flag 4c. " ..8c.".. " St. Domjn. If. 5c. " . . " 

« Spanish" 2c. " ..4c.".. " Cuba leaf ... 3c. ". . " 

Additional 1 per cent, on the amount of duty, except when specific, for '• Balanza." 

One-fourth of the whole is payable in Spanish gold, at 12J per cent, premium. Im- 



Statistics of Porto Rico. 



189 



ports from non-producing ports pay a differential duty of 21 per cent, on valuation, and 
from the neighboring islands the same under Spanish flag as under foreign. Exports, 
except timber, are free of duty, and when molasses is an entire cargo, or when vessels 
clear as they entered, no tonnage dues are exacted; else the charge is one dollar per 
ton on foreign vessels, and three-eighths of a dollar per ton on Spanish vessels. Ves- 
sels laden with mineral coal to the extent of their tonnage are subject to tonnage dues 
of only half a dollar per ton for foreign, and Spanish vessels nothing. Light-house 
dues of three cents per ton to 150, aud one cent for each in excess, continue to be levied. 
At Mayagiies there is a local charge of one rial or 12£ cents for each 400 lbs. of wei^h- 
able imports or exports. 

EXPORTATION FROM MAYAGUES, PORTO RICO-TOTAL CROPS. 

r~ — Hogsheads of Sugar , ^-Puncheons Molasses.-, 

1847. 1848. 1849. 1S50. 1851. 1847. 1848. 1849 

New York 6,620.. 11.039.. 7,072.. 8,241.. 7,039. .:. 2,497. . 3.442. . 3,118 

New Haven 47.. 381.. 274.. 813.. 959.... 1,184.. 2^807 1^819 

Philadelphia.... 1,828.. 2,127.. 1,343.. 3,024.. 3,489.... 670.. 397.. '639 

Baltimore 4,453.. 2,005.. 2,325.. 459.. 2,029..: 585.. 203 §52 

Other ports 2,354.. 1,801.. 1,638.. 975.. 2,455.... 946.. 967.. 500 

United States.. 15,302.. 17,353.. 12.652.. 13,512.. 15,971.... 5,882.. 7,S1 6 . . ~6~22S 

British N. Amer. 1,119.. 1,291.. 557.. 1,528.. 3,450.... 343.. 311.. 304 

G. Britain, Cowes 4,359.. 3,283.. 3,934.. 4,626.. 5,721.... 2,249.. 1,358 ' 1632 

France 2,285.. 1,886.. 755.. 3,158.. 463.... '— '— " '_ 

Spam — .. _ .. 40.. _ .. 2 8.... — ." — " _ 

Germany _ .. 331.. — .. 181.. 411.... _ .. _ .. _ 

Denmark — .. mm mm 741 

Genoa and Trieste 239.. 3S5.. 216.. 383..' — .... _ .' 2.'.' — 

Total 23,304.. 24,029.. 18,154.. 24,129.. 26^044 8,4X4.'. 9^i7. . "^164 

Weight of sugar 30,929,751 pounds in 1S51 against 29,114,628 pounds in 1850. 



EXPORTATION FROM MAYAGVES-Continued. 





,— Pehs. Molasses.— , 
1850. 1351. 

4,324... 2,819... 
3,534... 4,401... 

659... 339... 
27... 339..., 

565... 1,003.... 

9,109... 8,981.... 

322... 1,408... 
768... 380.... 

10,699... 10,769.... 






intals of O 
1849. 

980. 

7. 

40. 

778. 

1,805., 

36. 

1,468.. 

2,099., 

1.841.. 

24,647.. 

6,286.. 

38,181 . . 






New Tork 

New Haven 

Philadelphia 

Baltimore 


1847. 

... 767. 

3. 
5., 

.. 1,192., 

... 1,967.. 

.. 5,560.. 
.. 2,828.. 
... 6,252.. 
.. 39,223.. 

.. 8,096.. 
.. 63,926.. 


1848. 

949. 

10. 

460., 

. 114., 

327., 

, 1,860.. 

99.. 

2,085.. 

3,095.. 

8,549.. 

25,052.. 

5,275.. 

46,015.. 


1850. 

. 9,505. 

. 896. 
. 4,669. 
. 360. 


. 2,573 
604 


Other ports 


. 13G 
65 


United States . . . 

British N. America 
G. Britain, Cowes . 
France 


. 15,430., 

36., 

3,606.. 

. 557., 

3,759.. 

13.477.. 

18,314.. 
55,179.. 


. 3,378 

. 122 
4,455 


Spain 

Germany 

Denmark 


. 1,707 

2,664 

16,238 


Genoa and Trieste 
Total 


17,305 
•45,S7« 



190 Statistics of Porto Rico. 

CHIEF IMPORTS OF PROVISIONS, ETC., AT MAYAGUES. 
W. P. lumber., m. ft. 1%%.. 1.087.. I'lOS.. «&... 1,699... 1,078 .. $3 Is* 



P. P- " .. " 440.. 498. 



178... 331... 573... 4 89 



1,223... 3 86 
,097... 4,176... 2 43 



Hhd. staves.... m. 111.. 621.. 5S5.. 473... 9S3... 540 2 94 

" shooks & h'ds 17,404,* 26,537. . 33,312. . 19,191 . . . 16,189. . . 9 257 24^ 

Wood hoops... m. 527.. 585.. 726.. 46S... 598... 613 6 12* 

Shingles " 1,506.. 609.. 399.. 28S... 453... 544... 73J- 

Pork bbls. 543.. 436.. 594.. 649... 304... 646... 3 67* 

Bf,ef " 162.. 393.. 223.. 148... 223... 104... 2 20 

Bryfish quin. 30,792.. 29,663.. 27,177.. 20,401... 28,634... 26.544... 76* 

Mackerel bbls. 3,112.. 4,125.. 4,254.. 6,163... 5,7ol... 4,453... 98 

Herrings " 1,469.. 1,377.. 2,098.. 1,037... 1.178... 906... 76i- 

Butter kegs. 877.. 947.. 1.232.. 1,124... 1.098 

Lard « 4,325.. 3,191.. 3,301.. 3,067 

Flour bbls. 9,754.. 7,243.. 7,874.. 7,338... 8,870.. . 11,882.. .' 5 67 

Corn mealt .... pun. 873.. 303.. 222.. 333... 3S1... 796... 492 

" bb!s. 6,314.. 1,276.. 1,121.. 1,537... 1,067... 2.796... 123 

Rlce + quia- 8,168.. 2.243.. 1,039.. 1.890... 1,099... 3,763... 139 

Tallow candles . box. 6,086.. 5,276.. 5,094.. 3,695... 3,674... 8,89S . . . 8 62 ' 

Bread .....*.... blls. 1,445.. 1,128.. 988.. 624... 671... 55S...184 

Potatoes " 1.598.. 1,377.. 813.. 1,110... 1,025... 1,144... 39 

Onions quin. 1,199.. 1.980.. 651.. 895... 1,817... 1,581... 63 

Cheese, Amer. . . box. 5,348 . . 3,402 . . 2,203 . . 1 ,823 . . . 2,079 . . . 3,41 5 . . . 2 43 

Hams, " .. 4,446.. 3,391.. 3,703.. 2,714... 3,299... 3.702... 2 75 

Manuf. tobacco, pkgs 130.. 375.. 175.. 471... 460... 554... 5 19 

Leaftobac, Vir. hhds. 40.. 86.. 26.. 32... 38... 53... 4 14 
Note.— Of late years flour has been chiefly supplied by Spain and fish by the British 
North American provinces, which also provide lumber to some extent. 

LEGAL VALUE OF FOREIGN COINS, 1st OCTOBER, 1853. 

Gold. Round Money. Macuanir,a 

Spanish doubloon.. $16 _ * ~ $17 56J 

Patriot " .,. 15 50 n _ 

United States double eagle 19 371 . _ 21 25 

French 40 franc piece % qq _ _ 8 33 ^ 

British sovereign 4 glj 4 90 

Silver. 

Spanish, South America, Mexican, and United States dollar . 1 — 1 i2£ 

Pesetas Sevillanas 20 . . 2 9 4 

French 5 franc piece 95 ^ 6 „ 

" * " " -19 ...'..'.'.'.'.'. -2H 

British crown 110 l 23£ 

" shilling _ 22 — 24f 

And the aliquot parts in proportion. 

The above data have been chiefly obtained from the reliable trade-circulars of the 
highly respectable houses of Latimer & Co., of St. John's, and Latimer, Turull & Co., 
of May agues. 



* These duties are on foreign imports under foreign flag, and, with little difference, are the same 
throughout the island. 

t The increase of importation of rice and meal in 1852 was in consequence of damage to the native 
ci ops by a gale in August, 1851. 



